Installing antirock - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 Old 09-20-2012, 04:23 AM Thread Starter
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Installing antirock

So I installed my antirock last night (used) and I was unable to get the arms on the same plane, the passenger side is one tooth off. It is either lower or higher than the driver side arm therefore making the links different lengths. Has anyone had this issue or able to point me in the right direction? Or is it not that big of a deal were I can say F it. Thanks for your help.

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post #2 of 19 Old 09-20-2012, 04:29 AM
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I haven't installed one, but I'd expect you JK has a lean to it. See if you can get the links on the same spline/key then adjust the links. Do a few measurements with it off to see if the Jeep is level or not, most lean. My sway bar is loaded and leveling mine out by ~1/2" with the front bar.

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post #3 of 19 Old 09-20-2012, 04:32 AM
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Mine is the same way. Only by a little and I believe it's supposed to be that way.


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post #4 of 19 Old 09-20-2012, 06:30 AM
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I have the Teraflex Dual Rate system on mine and it's the same way. Annoying but not really an issue.

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post #5 of 19 Old 09-20-2012, 06:51 AM
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Pics?

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post #6 of 19 Old 09-20-2012, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdlynch2 View Post
Pics?
Probably looks like an antirock sway bar.
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post #7 of 19 Old 09-20-2012, 07:15 AM
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So are you putting the arms on the bar before you hook it up to the links? If so the arms should be on the same plane. If you are doing that then it sounds like the bar was splined wrong or could be twisted.

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post #8 of 19 Old 09-20-2012, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
I haven't installed one, but I'd expect you JK has a lean to it. See if you can get the links on the same spline/key then adjust the links. Do a few measurements with it off to see if the Jeep is level or not, most lean. My sway bar is loaded and leveling mine out by ~1/2" with the front bar.
Just did a guick measurement and the pass link is a half in shorter, after work I'll take them off and see if the jeep has a lean. I am guessing it does.

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Pics?
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So are you putting the arms on the bar before you hook it up to the links? If so the arms should be on the same plane. If you are doing that then it sounds like the bar was splined wrong or could be twisted.
Ya I put the bars on first and used a torepedo level to level out the driver side arm then I was unable to get the pass side level. So you might be right the bar could be splined wrong or bent which sucks. As stated above the pass side link is about a half an inch shorter do you think that will cause a problem?

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post #9 of 19 Old 09-20-2012, 10:48 AM
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I would say if you disconnect the links and level one arm and the other isn't level you have the arms a tooth off on the bar or the bar isn't splined correctly or twisted.

I've installed a few and I always get the arms level then I set the lengths of the links on the bench to verify they are the same. Most of the time this is the best way. Like Goody said you could have a pretty good lean which can be counter acted by a longer link on the side with the lean. I don't really like to try and counter act the lean condition with the sway bar though, I'd rather do it with spring spacers or ACOS.

09 Rubicon Unlimited on 42's with some stuff


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post #10 of 19 Old 09-20-2012, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abadjeeper View Post
I would say if you disconnect the links and level one arm and the other isn't level you have the arms a tooth off on the bar or the bar isn't splined correctly or twisted.

I've installed a few and I always get the arms level then I set the lengths of the links on the bench to verify they are the same. Most of the time this is the best way. Like Goody said you could have a pretty good lean which can be counter acted by a longer link on the side with the lean. I don't really like to try and counter act the lean condition with the sway bar though, I'd rather do it with spring spacers or ACOS.
I could very well be a tooth off (I hope) if not maybe I'll just have to live with it until I can buy a new bar.

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PSC BFH front and rear, Warn 9.5cti with viking synth line, Rigid duallys, RROR full skid,
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post #11 of 19 Old 09-20-2012, 12:13 PM
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I use EVO adjustable links.. . All you are doing is pre loading the bar a little bit... <shrug> its never caused me an issue.

You could also try taking all the weight off the rig.. jack it up and install the arms.. might make a difference.

°lllll°


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post #12 of 19 Old 09-20-2012, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I use EVO adjustable links.. . All you are doing is pre loading the bar a little bit... <shrug> its never caused me an issue.

You could also try taking all the weight off the rig.. jack it up and install the arms.. might make a difference.
Kinda confused as to why jacking up the jeep would help. I installed the bar, then the arms (no links attached) tried to get the arms on the same plane but couldn't it seemed as tho they where always one tooth off. So one was either higher or lower then the other, which leads me to believe the bar is twisted a little bit. Just from looking at it it doesn't look twisted or bend but who knows. Thanks for the help and advise.

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PSC BFH front and rear, Warn 9.5cti with viking synth line, Rigid duallys, RROR full skid,
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post #13 of 19 Old 09-20-2012, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thisguyhasadd42 View Post
Kinda confused as to why jacking up the jeep would help. I installed the bar, then the arms (no links attached) tried to get the arms on the same plane but couldn't it seemed as tho they where always one tooth off. So one was either higher or lower then the other, which leads me to believe the bar is twisted a little bit. Just from looking at it it doesn't look twisted or bend but who knows. Thanks for the help and advise.
I guess what I am trying to say is to preload the bar a little bit.. on the side that is up put it a click down.. then lower the rig and see if the arms are in plane. This would be the same as if you had adjustable links and you made one side longer.

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post #14 of 19 Old 09-20-2012, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HITMONEY View Post
I guess what I am trying to say is to preload the bar a little bit.. on the side that is up put it a click down.. then lower the rig and see if the arms are in plane. This would be the same as if you had adjustable links and you made one side longer.
Ah I see what your saying now, I'll give that a shot this weekend. Thanks.

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post #15 of 19 Old 09-20-2012, 02:16 PM
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Ah I see what your saying now, I'll give that a shot this weekend. Thanks.
Yeah just a little bit isn't gonna cause any adverse handling.. but don't get all crazy or it will cause some not so good handling characteristics. The arms being in perfect plane isn't hugely critical I don't believe, but someone correct me if I am wrong.

Also this isn't advisable for people with the stock front sway bar and disco's to try and correct lean or it will be a major PIA to get your links back on when you disco.

Before I was Antirock front and back, I played with preloading my rear sway bar adjustable links to try and get some of the lean out of it.. it helped but never got it all out and if I preloaded it to much it adversely affected the handling.

°lllll°


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post #16 of 19 Old 09-20-2012, 02:19 PM
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How are road manners with anti-rocks on both ends?

I think this thing is finally coming together. Still Needed: drive shafts, frame mount rails...then done son! For a while...
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post #17 of 19 Old 09-20-2012, 02:23 PM
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How are road manners with anti-rocks on both ends?
Definitely looser than stock.. but I got use to it in no time. I have some tweaking to do on the valving and spring rates with the coil overs as they were originally built with the stock sway bar in mind so mine is looser than it should be and is still completely driveable on the road.

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post #18 of 19 Old 09-20-2012, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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How are road manners with anti-rocks on both ends?
With just the front on there is a slight difference, a floaty maybe but not to were it is unsafe to drive I actually like it better than the stock.

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PSC BFH front and rear, Warn 9.5cti with viking synth line, Rigid duallys, RROR full skid,
RK 2.5 max travel pro with RRDs, 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers, Tera 44 front, Tera 60 rear with 4.88s
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post #19 of 19 Old 09-20-2012, 07:34 PM
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I actually enjoy the ride a little better then stock with F&R AR's. It is surely has a little more body roll but it is still very drive-able. I drive mine everyday and on the highway pretty regularly at 75mph and it feels fine. I didn't really care for it with just the front bar.

09 Rubicon Unlimited on 42's with some stuff


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