changing pinion yolk seal? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 09-09-2012, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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changing pinion yolk seal?

anyone know anything special i need to do this? whats the yolk nut supposed to be torqued to?

'92 YJ
'13 WK2
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post #2 of 13 Old 09-09-2012, 04:53 PM
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You'll need a puller of some sort to remove the yoke from the pinion. I don't recall the torque, but you do want a new pinion nut if it's factory. Be sure to have the right socket, if I recall the front was 1-1/4" rear was 1-5/16s"?

Oh and

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post #3 of 13 Old 09-09-2012, 04:55 PM
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I just usually count the threads showing on the pinion and use an impact to get it back to that location. The crush sleeves are pretty stout and take a lot to compress farther.

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post #4 of 13 Old 09-09-2012, 05:00 PM
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Make sure you apply some rtv to the splines so you dont get any oil passing tru them. 160 lbs of torque.

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post #5 of 13 Old 09-09-2012, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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whoops, you know yolk didnt look right when i typed it. Anyone know if the nut is a dealer only item?

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post #6 of 13 Old 09-09-2012, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerMonkeY View Post
whoops, you know yolk didnt look right when i typed it. Anyone know if the nut is a dealer only item?
It is not a dealer only item. Got mine from Q-tech if I remember correctly. Vato Zone should have one as well. I doubt it is JK specific.

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post #7 of 13 Old 09-10-2012, 04:38 PM
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The correct way to torque the pinion nut is to measure the torque to rotate before removing the pinion nut. Measure this with wheels and brakes removed.

Use a new nut on the pinion gear and tighten to 160 ft/lbs. Measure the torque to rotate and you are looking for the previous recorded measurement plus 5 in/lbs.

If it is the the same or above, you are done. If it is low, tighten the nut in 5 ft/lbs increments until you reach the required torque to rotate. If you get to 200 lbs/ft there is a good chance that the crush sleeve is damaged and will need replacing.

The other method is tighten the hell out of it and hope for the best, most of the time this works, but not always. Taking a little extra time can avoid replacing bearings and/or gears due to premature wear or failure.


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post #8 of 13 Old 09-12-2012, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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ok you confused me. so i want to tkae wheels and brakes off, rotate the pinion with the nut (using a torque wrench that i can see with its at) and whatever torque i can turn the pinion at is what i want to look for after i tighten to 160 ????

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post #9 of 13 Old 09-12-2012, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerMonkeY View Post
ok you confused me. so i want to tkae wheels and brakes off, rotate the pinion with the nut (using a torque wrench that i can see with its at) and whatever torque i can turn the pinion at is what i want to look for after i tighten to 160 ????
Yes, the FSM states to go 5 in/lbs over what it was recorded at. Like I said you can just tighten the hell out of it, which will work most of the time, but not every time... It really doesn't take much longer to do it correctly.


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post #10 of 13 Old 09-12-2012, 07:58 PM
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Make sure you are rotating with an inch lb torque wrench! Not to be confused with a ft lb torque wrench.
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post #11 of 13 Old 09-12-2012, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireTrail741 View Post
Make sure you are rotating with an inch lb torque wrench! Not to be confused with a ft lb torque wrench.
needs to be a dial as well, not a clicker..

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post #12 of 13 Old 09-12-2012, 08:48 PM
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I'm glad to see the correct way to torque the pinion nut being brought up here. It's not usually mentioned, and is almost always not heeded when it is.

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post #13 of 13 Old 09-12-2012, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
needs to be a dial as well, not a clicker..
Yeppers! That too! Thanks Goody!

The in lb wrenches are not easily found and they are expensive too.
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