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post #1 of 19 Old 09-08-2012, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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Balljoints?

Ok I know this has been discussed many time and I think I have read every post made about it. I am at the point that I need to do ball joints but I am really torn which way to go. I was all set on the Poly's but I don't know what to think about the break in period that everyone talks about. My Jeep doesn't get driven much so the break in would take a long time. I wouldn't worry about it but my wife drives the kids in it from time to time. Maybe I'm better off with a set if Moog's or something else? Just looking for some real world advice from experience. I am on 35" MTR w/ Kevlars but 37s are a possibility sometime in the future.

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post #2 of 19 Old 09-08-2012, 10:31 AM
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Didn't have an issue with break in on mine. Even if you do it will simply feel like a slightly heavier wheel, nothing major.


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post #3 of 19 Old 09-08-2012, 10:34 AM
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If the Moogs are cheap than they aren't any better than the OEM. I forget if they have the plastic inner "cup" like OEM or if it's a better design.

But honestly.. cheap balljoints suck. I got tired of changing mine out and went with Dynatracs. Much more than what I wanted to pay but so glad to not have constant issues anymore.

Would I go with the Poly Performance joints? Absolutely... regardless of any break-in, they are FAR superior to the OEM's. Great company with excellent customer service too.

Wife + kids + 37's = GOOD quality components. Would hate to think that she might be on the hwy with worn out OEM bj's and have to experience unsafe or scary handling conditions. JMO.

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post #4 of 19 Old 09-08-2012, 11:14 AM
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I have the Synergy ball joints and they are heavy duty. Drives great with them. Have about 2k miles on them.


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post #5 of 19 Old 09-08-2012, 11:44 AM
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I went w the poly and didn't experience any break in issues at all. Much better than those stock pos and much less $ than the dynos.

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post #6 of 19 Old 09-08-2012, 11:45 AM
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No brake in when I installed mine. Drove great right after.

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post #7 of 19 Old 09-08-2012, 01:34 PM
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Went with the poly and like them a lot . Also little to no break in that i could tell. Im running a RK 3.5 and 35" cooper stt tek3

Can't say
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post #8 of 19 Old 09-08-2012, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for the input. Guess I will put my order in today.

JKU Rubicon 3" Lift 37" Toyos on ATX Slabs, Teraflex Hinged Carrier, BFH Rear with hitch, JCR Dagger front bumper, Warn 9.5XP, JCR Skids, Artec Front Axle Armor, 5.38 Gears, 6.4 Hemi
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post #9 of 19 Old 09-08-2012, 02:17 PM
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What is it with the "break in" period? After initial install is the ride suppose to be shitty or something? I dont see why it would be, if anything it would be the opposite no?

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post #10 of 19 Old 09-08-2012, 02:49 PM
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^^^^^^The new joints are stiff causing the steering to remain where you put instead of re-centering. It is really not a big deal at all it just makes you wonder if the jeep is aligned or not. After about 2k they loosen up and are golden.

There is no way I would waste money on the oem joints. By either of the qualtity ones available and be done with it.

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post #11 of 19 Old 09-08-2012, 03:55 PM
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I had moogs installed in my last JK to replace the factory BJs. Four months later, the moogs were shot. Moog=crap IMO. In my current JK, I installed synergy BJs and they've been oing strong for a year now.
The shop that did my last JK eventually quit using moog b/c they lost so much money, the part would be warrantied but they would have to eat the cost of labor. They moved to raybestos BJs and not only does raybestos warranty the part, they reimburse the shop for labor as well. Feedback from the shop is that the raybestos BJs are a good product since they have not had to replace nearly as many times as with the moogs.
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post #12 of 19 Old 09-11-2012, 05:53 AM
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Back in '09 I tossed the stock ball joints at 2k miles after reading about all the failures. Poly's weren't available then, so I went with Dynatrac Pro Steers. Expensive but good.

'09 JKRU. 4" Teraflex long arm, Teraflex R44 housing, Teraflex / Fox Resis, Poly Performance skids, Nemesis Billy Rockers, Nemesis flares, 37" ATZ P3s on 17" 5x5.5" Trailready HDs, Spyntec hubs, Teraflex BBK, Mopar BBK master/booster, Superior front & Alloy USA rear axle shafts, CTMs, Reids, Synergy drag link & tie rod, WTOR hydro-boosted steering, 5.38s, TF Dual Rate front bar, TF bumpers, Warn Powerplant, Tom Woods shafts, AA xfer case cable, Kilby canister relo, RH4x4 cage.
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post #13 of 19 Old 09-11-2012, 06:58 AM
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Poly. I had no issues with break in.

08 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon: lift, wheels/tires, bumpers, skids, sliders, winch, lights, cb. All the normal stuff, plus some.......
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post #14 of 19 Old 09-11-2012, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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I ordered some Poly's yesterday so I will hopefully have time to install them next week.

JKU Rubicon 3" Lift 37" Toyos on ATX Slabs, Teraflex Hinged Carrier, BFH Rear with hitch, JCR Dagger front bumper, Warn 9.5XP, JCR Skids, Artec Front Axle Armor, 5.38 Gears, 6.4 Hemi
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post #15 of 19 Old 09-11-2012, 07:22 AM
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all this ball joint talk makes me wonder. 24k miles with stock ball joints and they are strong and show no movement.


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post #16 of 19 Old 09-11-2012, 08:02 AM
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^^^^^Experiences vary but if you are running larger tires and do not trade your ride often balljoints issues happen. They are a known weak point for the JK. I replaced mine with low miles on them just to prevent failure. I would rather do work on my own schedule than have to deal with breakdowns or other tributary problems.

Poly came out with the perfect market targeted product that is cost effective and well built. Dynatrac went hardcore, well above and beyond on quality and rebuildable.

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post #17 of 19 Old 09-11-2012, 08:06 AM
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should have noted that i've been on 37s for about 15k


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post #18 of 19 Old 09-11-2012, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluke the 2 View Post
all this ball joint talk makes me wonder. 24k miles with stock ball joints and they are strong and show no movement.
Mine where fine to for 52 000k then i switched to 35 duratrac took a month and the extra weight killed them right off.Poly or dyna its worth any peny.

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post #19 of 19 Old 09-12-2012, 05:40 PM
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I really think the break in period is vehicle specific, and also if you have ever so slightly bent C's, they will bind. I have a ghetto fix to speed up the break-in period. Mine really never broke in after 5000 miles, so I "adjusted" the C on the passenger side. All is good now, and they are way better than stock, or moog.
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