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post #1 of 18 Old 08-27-2012, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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Gear Oil...

Any ideas on recommended rear diff gear oil for a 2007 Rubicon Unlimited? I was looking at RP but don't feel like paying $21.00 / qt. Unless someone knows where I can get the 80w90 for cheaper in RP?
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post #2 of 18 Old 08-27-2012, 02:40 PM
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Currie and other axle manufacturers have done extensive testing and found out one important thing; dino oil transfers heat much better than synthetic oil and also "splashes" more fluid in reverse-rotation systems giving better overall lubrication.. This attribute is much more important in a dif than it is in an engine - as the oil is the ONLY thing that cools dif gears. Many axle manufactures advise against using synthetic in their axles.

I would save money and stick with a quality standard oil for this particular application.

Last edited by desert dog; 08-27-2012 at 02:43 PM.
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post #3 of 18 Old 08-28-2012, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desert dog View Post
Currie and other axle manufacturers have done extensive testing and found out one important thing; dino oil transfers heat much better than synthetic oil and also "splashes" more fluid in reverse-rotation systems giving better overall lubrication.. This attribute is much more important in a dif than it is in an engine - as the oil is the ONLY thing that cools dif gears. Many axle manufactures advise against using synthetic in their axles.

I would save money and stick with a quality standard oil for this particular application.
thats news to me. very glad you posted it. im a big fan of the mobil 1 line and use it whenever i can. ill be regaring in the next few weeks so if i need to go to a dino oil i will happily do it.
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post #4 of 18 Old 08-28-2012, 08:33 AM
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I'll go against the grain here. Synthetic fluids are more uniform and have better temperature stability than mineral fluids. I've never had syn diff fluid turn black myself, a sign of fluid over heating, oxidation, and/or breakdown, but dino fluids nearly always turn black.

The viscosity of the fluid is the viscosity of the fluid, at least until it overheats and foams. For the same levels of fluid in the front diff, dino fluid will foam and vent out much more readily than syn.

The shear stability of syn fluids is better than dino, giving them a longer life and more importantly better shock performance.

I've always found more sludge on the magnetic drain plug when using dino fluids.

I just drained my rear diff after 50k miles running Mobil 1. The fluid was still honey colored and there was next to no sludge on the drain plug. I'm sold on syn fluids and will choose them over dino any day.

That said, using the right viscosity, the right amount (I use way more than factory spec for several reasons), and changing the fluid before it is "bad", will give the best protection, syn or dino.

As to Royal Purple diff fluid, I won't use it. I like RP fluids in general, but I've never had a good experience with their diff fluids. It seems to be able to leak passed seals which other fluids don't find their way passed, and it also seems to go "bad" far quicker than other syn fluids.

Mobil 1 and Valvoline syn diff fluids seem to work the best for me. Redline make some excellent diff fluids too.


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post #5 of 18 Old 08-28-2012, 09:13 AM
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I use mobile 1 in everything but my axles.

I had heat issues in my rear D60 that were solved when I switched from M1 back to dino after calling Currie. I didn't even get to finish my sentence when the tech at Currie said "you must be running synthetic, stop using it". He stated that most failures they have seen were directly related to Synthetic oil and that their testing and outside testing indicated that synthetic does not pull heat from the gears well.

Currie told me that using synthetic gear oil in their axles voids the warranty. Hi-9 also voids your warranty if you use synthetic in their axles. Good enough for me to stick with cheap dino oil in my diffs.
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post #6 of 18 Old 08-28-2012, 09:16 AM
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I am running dino with my break in period. However up to this point I have run Mobil1 synthetic since I had 1000 miles on the new Jeep. Never had a locker problem, old gears looked new, I'll be swapping back out to full syn 90w.

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post #7 of 18 Old 08-28-2012, 11:13 PM
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I run Amsoil in all of my vehicles and all parts of the jeep that needs oil. I've used it for close to 15 yrs. nothing but great things to say about the stuff


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post #8 of 18 Old 08-29-2012, 12:12 AM
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I've never had a problem with my differentials overheating with or without synthetic gear oil in them.
Perhaps an overheated differential is a symptom of some other underlying problem.

edit to add:
I will add I have never actually measured the temperature of the internal parts of any of my differentials.
My indirect evidence of not having an overheating issue is the fact that I have never had any part of a differential fail or wear out, in 44 years of vehicle driving/ownership. (I tend to keep vehicles for a long time.)

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Last edited by ronjenx; 08-29-2012 at 12:24 AM.
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post #9 of 18 Old 08-29-2012, 06:01 AM
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I used Pennzoil dino and Mobil 1 syn in my last Jeep. Strangely enough ...they both worked.

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post #10 of 18 Old 08-29-2012, 06:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07unlimitedx View Post
I run Amsoil in all of my vehicles and all parts of the jeep that needs oil. I've used it for close to 15 yrs. nothing but great things to say about the stuff


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post #11 of 18 Old 08-29-2012, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07unlimitedx View Post
I run Amsoil in all of my vehicles and all parts of the jeep that needs oil. I've used it for close to 15 yrs. nothing but great things to say about the stuff


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post #12 of 18 Old 08-29-2012, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjenx View Post
I've never had a problem with my differentials overheating with or without synthetic gear oil in them.
Perhaps an overheated differential is a symptom of some other underlying problem.
High pinion diffs tend have different heat issues due to the higher pinion location.

I run around 7.5 pts of diff fluid in the rear of a D44 and do not believe there are any heat issues. While I have not measured the ring temp, I have measured the temp at the end of the pinion, and I have no reason to believe that syn fluid is not doing exactly what it is supposed to. The pinion is slightly hotter than the housing, but considering the gears are the heat source that is exactly what I would expect.

The cleanness, stability, and extended service life of syn diff fluid far outweighs any heat concerns in my view, at least in a low pinion rear end. My Jeep has had syn diff fluid for 140k miles, and apart from me destroying the pinion bearings when I bound up the drive shaft, I've had no issues at all, and everything looks good in the rear end.

Any heat issues with high pinion rear ends should not really have any effect on stock D44s. The argument could be made about the effectiveness of syn fluids in transferring heat, but for the D44 this does seem be an issue.


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post #13 of 18 Old 01-20-2015, 02:01 PM
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Just did my 500 mile re gear oil change. Did it closer to 600 miles. Did the initial break in with 80w-90 Mopar, OX lockers and Yukon 5.13s. Just replaced it with Mobile 1 75w-90 synthetic, well see it goes.

Rear is on the left and front on right


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post #14 of 18 Old 01-20-2015, 02:23 PM
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HI-9 's in my CJ , Tech said to use Valvoline Blend , Better shock ( gear on gear ) and heat transfer values . Not a direct quote but , 75-140 is what he runs in his , Good enough for me.......regards k.
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post #15 of 18 Old 01-22-2015, 06:28 AM
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Lucas 75W-140 Synthetic.

Never measured heat but little debris on magnets and nice color when changed.
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post #16 of 18 Old 01-23-2015, 11:33 PM
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85-140 Dino in mine. That's what the shop who did the gears recommended, so I figure that's what I'll run for at least as long as they're in warranty (3/36). Just makes sense to me to follow the manufacturer's/shop's recommendations since that's who you'll be dealing with if you have a problem. Don't want to give them any excuse to dodge their responsibility.

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post #17 of 18 Old 01-24-2015, 12:17 AM
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when I installed my Dynatrac pro rock 44 in the front Dynatrac recommended breaking in with reg gear oil for 500 miles then switch to a synthetic. Been running royal purple for a good while now with no issues. Mine stays in water and mud here in VA so I change my diffs pretty reg... its pretty costly, but I figured with the money I have invested in my axles why cut short with fluid. hope my 2 cents helps
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post #18 of 18 Old 01-24-2015, 11:07 AM
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re:Gear oil

I have a bit of compulsiveness about my Jeeps & as such service them myself . I wheel my '11 JKU (my DD) pretty hard in the S.Eastern US where -unfortunately- we have a buncha mud that I can't avoid while getting to the good limestone /granite /shale I love to crawl....
this being mentioned to imply that I kinda REALLY wanna protect my rig from damage so I can enjoy it to the fullest ..I have an odd optioned '11 Sahara that was ordered w/ heavy tow package (original orderer decided not to buy after the order thus I got it )& LSD rear 44 . I don't tow anything but still use the recommended Mopar 'heavy service' diff fluids being 75w-90 front & 75w-140 w/LS additive and I use Valvoline synth. At over 70k I have never had any metal on the drain plug magnets.
I am interested in your setup , GRIZZLY74 ; it is the gear R&P size upgrade I am considering and I am also really looking at the OX as a locker solution; do you daily drive that or highway it? Does OX or Yukon recommend Dino oil or synth? did you go to electro or air activation or run the manual cable ? you can PM so we don't hijack OPs thread , if ya want
Also, I have researched and for the topic of the Currie guys calling for Dino due to issues w/ heat running synth , aren't the RJs HP 44/60/70/80s setup with way different tolerances and due to the tilt of the diff housing have a much different lubricant flow than the stock housings and diffs? They have the flow from the R&P sumped back up & over through two pinion bearings back down to the bottom from what I recall and this causes a lot of heat potential around the second pinion bearing and thus synth -even in all its uniformity of shock prention and shear tolerance - oil isn't advised because the coverage will begin to cease after really high heating periods ....doesn't that sound right ? there is a great post on here somewhere that Currie employees discuss all this .
I'm just pointing out that compared to the OEM diffs , it's apple to orange when comparing to a Currie.....
oh; I am looking to begin using Amsoil once I upgrade to higher gear ratio in spring ....

<<EDIT: Scratch that , GRIZZLY74: just found your thread on air actuated OX lockers...��>>


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Last edited by j3ff3ry_j33p; 01-24-2015 at 11:21 AM.
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