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post #1 of 31 Old 08-13-2012, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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Raptor Liner

I know there are several posts about Raptor Liner, but I wanted to add my 2-cents.

I sprayed the bed of my truck (not my Jeep) this weekend with Raptor Liner and I am very impressed with the product. I bought a nylon brush to scuff up the paint, but max speed on the wheel was 3000 RPM and my grinder spins at 10k. I started to scuff up the bed with red scotchbrite pads, but decided to be lazy and see how well the Raptor Liner will stick to the paint.

I washed out the bed, sanded a couple small surface rust spots, followed with self-etching primer, wiped down the bed with mineral spirits, wiped it down a second time with lacquer thinner, taped everything and started spraying. The results were outstanding IMO. Nice Finish and Texture, easy application, seems very durable, and inexpensive.

TIPS/THOUGHTS
1. TAPE EDGES - I used WireTape to make the body lines (sprayed over the bed rail). The expensive tape was not necessary with Raptor Liner because the coating is not as thick as products like LineX. However, using a thick tape does produce a better result because the Raptor Liner can build up on the edge of the tape and make a nice clean line. If you only used painters tape the Raptor Liner could bleed over the top and make some stringy and uneven edges.

2. SPRAYING - I started spraying the product like paint and this is completely incorrect. You can get a much better result if you spray slow and close to the surface. You don't want to back spray, just cover the surface as you go - wait and hour and apply another coat. DO NOT try to spray up for areas like the under side of a truck bed rail. Since the gun sort of spits the product, when you turn the gun up you will get some blobs that fall in areas you don't want them.

3. AMOUNT OF MATERIAL - The kit included (4) bottles of the product. This was enough to cover the bed of a Ford Ranger, but if I had a few more bottles I would have used them. The product seems to build up very well and I think you could create a very thick surface for added durability if you continued to layer. While (4) bottles did cover the surface, I actually ran out before I put the third coat on my tail gate - so I really needed a at least (1) more bottle (however I did spray heavy on the bed).

4. PSI - The instructions say you can you use the included spray gun between 40-70 PSI. I set my compressor at 65 PSI because I wanted a smooth finish (since I was going over the bed rails). Even at 65 PSI I have plenty of texture - not rough, but textured.

5. GLOVES - Get some nitrate gloves. I ripped a hole in one glove when I was washing the spray gun and found out Raptor Liner sticks to skin very well. I don't have the cleanest looking hands anyway - but this is a new level of hand grime. I tried mineral spirits, thinner, gasoline, hand cleaner and soap - my hand is still Raptor Liner black.

6. FUMES - I have been known to do more painting than I should in an enclosed building - but the fumes from Raptor Liner are pretty wicked. Make sure you have some ventilation or at least charge admission to the tweekers that show up.

7. DURABILITY - I can't yet speak for the durability, but the product seems pretty tough. I hit the coating hard with a wrench when I was installing the bed bolts and did not make a mark - the liner had only cured about 2-hours so I assume it will only get more durable.

8. FINISH - The overall finish is as good or better than any product I have looked at so far. I have a client that has all his fleet vehicles sprayed with LineX, and Raptor Liner looks equally as good. I think the LineX Product would be more durable because of the material thickness, but with (4) more bottles of Raptor Liner you could equal the material thickness. I also paid $100 and (1) Sunday afternoon for Raptor Liner and LineX was $525 for my truck (installed).











Last edited by folkxrock; 08-15-2012 at 09:30 AM.
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post #2 of 31 Old 08-13-2012, 09:43 AM
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Sounds pretty awesome... how about some pics?

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post #3 of 31 Old 08-13-2012, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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Sounds pretty awesome... how about some pics?
I will try to get some images posted this week. I finished up after dark last night and it has been raining all morning.

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post #4 of 31 Old 08-13-2012, 10:01 AM
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post #5 of 31 Old 08-15-2012, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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Photos Added
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post #6 of 31 Old 08-15-2012, 09:51 AM
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Wow that came out really good, I ordered some last week gonna try to spray the tub of my jeep this weekend.
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post #7 of 31 Old 08-15-2012, 10:32 AM
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that really turned out nice!

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post #8 of 31 Old 08-15-2012, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JDodge View Post
Wow that came out really good, I ordered some last week gonna try to spray the tub of my jeep this weekend.
Thanks - it is really easy to apply. Make sure you can be without your Jeep for a couple days because the fumes are terrible. I applied the coating 3-days ago and you can still smell it when you walk close to my truck - I can't imagine being enclosed in a vehicle. On day 1 and 2 you won't want to be inside a vehicle.

The biggest tips are plan your spray route and get a helper if possible. I recruited my wife to keep my shirt and air hose away from the surface. This was a big help because I didn't have to worry about leaning in to the fresh coating.

If you get any drips or blobs, you can wipe them out and respray over the top. After the coating dries you won't notice the mistake areas.
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post #9 of 31 Old 08-15-2012, 11:27 AM
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I have done literally 4 months worth of research on "bedliner" material and Plolyurea coatings both pure and hybrid in both consumer applications as well as industrial applications. I have seen behind the curtain with the more popular professional sprayed brands and have interviewed some pretty knowledgeable people on the subject from chemists to the guy shooting it for a living and have read more forums than I care to admit on the subject. That's what I have been up to.

Here's the deal with the Raptor.. its among the best DIY stuff out there.. easy application relatively cheap when compared to professionally shot ie, Line-X, Rhino. Problem is Raptor, as with most liners is aromatic.. meaning it is not UV stable and though it looks awesome after completed and for a few months after.. but most likely in a direct sun application it will start to fade and deteriorate especially if its a color. Another weakness of Raptor and most like it, is that it has poor "stretch" qualities, this promotes cracking and thus chipping.

All of these products have their pros and cons.. I have spent countless, and I do mean countless hours researching them as I am considering a bedlining/Protective Coatings business here is South Florida but am still on the fence. If nothing else, I learned a metric fuck ton about bedlining materials that I have no problem sharing honestly with anyone here.

Most of the time you will never get a straight answer on the inTARDnets about which is best.. this I know for certain.. a few reasons why..

1) One product may be better than another product in different uses.

2) Not many people want to admit publicly that they bought junk. Most people believe it or not, would even defend an inferior product as to not look like they were wrong. Its stupid human nature.

3) Some good products get a bad wrap because the MOST IMPORTANT STEP in any application of any product is the quality of the prep. You could have spent 1,000.00 bucks on having your tub Line-X'd or Rhino'd and if the shop does a poor job of prepping, the best product in the world can't overcome that.

4) Shills and fanboys. I have never seen an area of products that have more shills posting on the internet then bedlining companies. Its embarrassing, and even more embarrassing when you see someone fall for it.

In the end, the standard rule usually applies... You get what you pay for. Its really hard to swallow that bill from Rhino or Line-X, but years later you will be happy you did especially if you want a warranty. They are also using, most of the time anyway, the latest in Polyurea technology. Though I can think of many instances where DIY would be the better option when all things considered, especially on Jeeps.

Even though the DIY stuff is Petroleum based (fumes), it has come a long way, and I wouldn't think twice about using it in certain applications.. pick-up beds not being one of them though, unless its an older truck. Why? Well as some of you know this is pretty much a permanent or if you want to split hairs, semi-permanent modification. There is no real undoing whatever it is you put down. Yes, it can be stripped but that is one helluva undertaking. I'd rather not roll those dice personally.

Again, its all about the prep with this mod. If you skimp out on that, you will suffer the consequences sooner or later. After that its all about the top coat UV protection as all of these liners are aromatic and I can't think of a part of a vehicle that gets more UV exposure and general abuse than a truck bed. Not the place to get cheap with IMO. Both Line-X and Rhino have an aliphatic top coat process... meaning its UV stable.

I hope this info helps someone.. and yet its just the tip off the iceberg. I have read so much about this crap I dream about it.

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post #10 of 31 Old 08-15-2012, 11:43 AM
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BTW, to the OP..

Its looks as if you did a fantastic job on that... your lines are straight! Did you use wire tape?

That is another secret to getting your lines to look good.. wire-tape.

http://www.langeman.com/WireTrim/

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post #11 of 31 Old 08-15-2012, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HITMONEY View Post
Here's the deal with the Raptor.. its among the best DIY stuff out there.. easy application relatively cheap when compared to professionally shot ie, Line-X, Rhino. Problem is Raptor, as with most liners is aromatic.. meaning it is not UV stable and though it looks awesome after completed and for a few months after.. but most likely in a direct sun application it will start to fade and deteriorate especially if its a color. Another weakness of Raptor and most like it, is that it has poor "stretch" qualities, this promotes cracking and thus chipping.
Hitmoney - thanks for posting up the info, you have certainly did a lot more research than I did - hahaha. However, I did find some of the same info that you mention. In my application I was not worried about fading because I have a camper shell for the truck (just waiting for the coating to fully cure before I re-install). Also, as you mention - if this were a new truck I would have most likely went the LineX route, but this is a 2004 Ranger and my work/3rd vehicle.

My main reason for the Raptor Liner was to repair the damage caused by a factory bed liner that rubbed through the paint in several locations. I had to remove the bed liner to add the camper shell and the spray in liner was the cheapest and best looking method to repair paint damage.

I do agree that you get what you pay for, but after doing the math, I decided that if needed I could respray the Raptor Liner every two years for less than the cost of LineX and if I sold truck (or it died) in between I was even more money ahead.

Last, while I can't verify how long my application will last, I have looked at a couple Raptor Liner spray jobs with more than a year on them and they still look brand new - so I think fading after a couple months might be over critical - but your main point about the material type is valid. Other than that, I agree with your points and appreciate your research.
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post #12 of 31 Old 08-15-2012, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HITMONEY View Post
BTW, to the OP..

Its looks as if you did a fantastic job on that... your lines are straight! Did you use wire tape?

That is another secret to getting your lines to look good.. wire-tape.

http://www.langeman.com/WireTrim/
Thanks for the compliment - I did use WireTape, but it really was not necessary with Raptor Liner because of the material thickness is not like LineX. However, you do need a thick tape to create and edge and the WireTape was perfect. The adhesion was also great. So in summary - you don't need WireTape - but it works great for the application - hahaha. Thick foam tape would work as well and be less expensive for this product.
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post #13 of 31 Old 08-15-2012, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by folkxrock View Post
Hitmoney - thanks for posting up the info, you have certainly did a lot more research than I did - hahaha. However, I did find some of the same info that you mention. In my application I was not worried about fading because I have a camper shell for the truck (just waiting for the coating to fully cure before I re-install). Also, as you mention - if this were a new truck I would have most likely went the LineX route, but this is a 2004 Ranger and my work/3rd vehicle.

My main reason for the Raptor Liner was to repair the damage caused by a factory bed liner that rubbed through the paint in several locations. I had to remove the bed liner to add the camper shell and the spray in liner was the cheapest and best looking method to repair paint damage.

I do agree that you get what you pay for, but after doing the math, I decided that if needed I could respray the Raptor Liner every two years for less than the cost of LineX and if I sold truck (or it died) in between I was even more money ahead.

Last, while I can't verify how long my application will last, I have looked at a couple Raptor Liner spray jobs with more than a year on them and they still look brand new - so I think fading after a couple months might be over critical - but your main point about the material type is valid. Other than that, I agree with your points and appreciate your research.
Cool, I don't want you to think my post was directed to you or in some kind of rebuttal to your thread. It wasn't meant to be that way. It was merely a thread that provided a good opportunity to share some of the shit I've learned over the past few months... so thank you for that opportunity.

Obviously you did a fantastic job on your truck, one of the better I've seen. I have seen some bad ones with a different product.. real bad but in fairness to the product I think the problem was the prep. With a camper shell you have negated the propensity for fade.



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Originally Posted by folkxrock View Post
Thanks for the compliment - I did use WireTape, but it really was not necessary with Raptor Liner because of the material thickness is not like LineX. However, you do need a thick tape to create and edge and the WireTape was perfect. The adhesion was also great. So in summary - you don't need WireTape - but it works great for the application - hahaha. Thick foam tape would work as well and be less expensive for this product.
Foam tape... Good tip, I am gonna have to remember that.

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post #14 of 31 Old 08-15-2012, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HITMONEY View Post
Cool, I don't want you to think my post was directed to you or in some kind of rebuttal to your thread. It wasn't meant to be that way. It was merely a thread that provided a good opportunity to share some of the shit I've learned over the past few months... so thank you for that opportunity.
No worries at all - I completely understood and appreciate the point of your post. I wish I could have found your info summarized when I was product hunting.
What would be great is a Positive/Negative breakdown of all the popular product lines.

One more note -
While I enjoyed the project and it took the better part of a Sunday afternoon when I was not busy, the $500 price tag for LineX is not that out of line when you consider the time required for prep and supplies.

I called two LineX dealers for a quote and one removed and reinstalled all the bed hardware (bed bolts, tiedowns, plugs, etc) and one dealer just sprayed over everything. Both were around $500. If the dealer is removing all hardware and completing the install for around $500 that is really not a bad price.

In addition, if you don't have the supplies - masking plastic, WireTape, thinner for cleaning the bed, ect. - you will easily spend another $100 in addition to the kit if you want to finished product to look professional. So the DYI tab would be about $225 total + time (if you don't have a garage full of supplies).
When you factor in time, the premium on LineX is not that outrageous.
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post #15 of 31 Old 08-15-2012, 12:46 PM
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No worries at all - I completely understood and appreciate the point of your post. I wish I could have found your info summarized when I was product hunting.
What would be great is a Positive/Negative breakdown of all the popular product lines.

One more note -
While I enjoyed the project and it took the better part of a Sunday afternoon when I was not busy, the $500 price tag for LineX is not that out of line when you consider the time required for prep and supplies.

I called two LineX dealers for a quote and one removed and reinstalled all the bed hardware (bed bolts, tiedowns, plugs, etc) and one dealer just sprayed over everything. Both were around $500. If the dealer is removing all hardware and completing the install for around $500 that is really not a bad price.

In addition, if you don't have the supplies - masking plastic, WireTape, thinner for cleaning the bed, ect. - you will easily spend another $100 in addition to the kit if you want to finished product to look professional. So the DYI tab would be about $225 total + time (if you don't have a garage full of supplies).
When you factor in time, the premium on LineX is not that outrageous.

Good points on the consumables that will also have to be purchased to do a DIY job correctly.

I may write a more in depth summary for JKO, but I also don't want to start a rash of butthurt either cause as I've seen on other forums, for some reason bedliner debates get ugly and then attract shills.. luckily I have the power of the band for them.

I have to say though, I did find a passion for this myself.. not so much the bed lining applications, but the Polyurea industry as a whole.. it is really fascinating stuff and what can be done with it boggles the mind.

One of my favorite vids of a what Polyurea, in this case Line-X, can do is in this video.. mind you, there is at least $300.00 if not much more, worth of product being applied here.. more than enough to do multiple truck beds. Line-X is easily the most expensive product out there a bed lining biz can buy... crazy expensive actually.. but cool shit none the less.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S14aw...e=results_main

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post #16 of 31 Old 08-15-2012, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HITMONEY View Post
One of my favorite vids of a what Polyurea, in this case Line-X, can do is in this video.. mind you, there is at least $300.00 if not much more, worth of product being applied here.. more than enough to do multiple truck beds. Line-X is easily the most expensive product out there a bed lining biz can buy... crazy expensive actually.. but cool shit none the less.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S14aw...e=results_main
One of my favorites is the Smashlab episode where they tried to bomb proof a building with LineX. If I had access to that product and the equipment, I would waste so much material just trying stuff.
Do you have any idea how much LineX weighs when applied?
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post #17 of 31 Old 08-15-2012, 01:18 PM
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One of my favorites is the Smashlab episode where they tried to bomb proof a building with LineX. If I had access to that product and the equipment, I would waste so much material just trying stuff.
Do you have any idea how much LineX weighs when applied?
Line-X weighs in @ .7 pounds per sq ft @ 1/8 thickness according to them and Rhino gives the the same spec on their Polyurea product as well.

Yeah, the equipment alone for Polyurea spraying is 25k plus. And once you got the bill for the two drums of Line-X product (A and B) knowing how few trucks those two drums will get you, you won't be wasting much of it or you will be out of biz. But one cool thing I saw was a Coke can that had its entire outside surface sprayed with Line-X, forget crushing it with your hand.. you could stand on it and not phaze it.. then the guy told me it had about $25.00 worth of product on it, his cost. That's an expensive can. Rhino has similar demonstrations of their Polyurea Hybrid as well.. neat shit!

As expensive as this stuff is, I wonder how these guys can even stay in business.. and that's with consumers already bitching how expensive it is.. they have no clue how expensive it is for the biz to buy this stuff, equipment, laborers, and al the normal biz expenses.. I am shocked a bed liner doesn't cost $1,000.00 dollars.

EDIT: I am sorry, I didn't mean to derail your thread. I should have probably started a new one. Though, once the Google crawlers get done here, you are going to see the views of this thread go up significantly from all the people, and shills, searching out info.

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post #18 of 31 Old 08-15-2012, 05:14 PM
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I completely agree with the original posters review of the Raptor Liner product.

We had similar results with our JK's. I used all four cans, but plan to go back over it with another four in the future. We sprayed my four door JK in very low light, so some areas are thin. I sprayed over the rail in the door jams and the thicker areas are staying really well, while the thin ones are peeling away from being kicked or sprayed with the high pressure wash.

I would definitely choose Raptor Liner again. My local Line-X shop quoted me $950 (with me removing seats and carpet.) Not bad for the quality, but doing the job myself was fun.
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post #19 of 31 Old 08-15-2012, 05:23 PM
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Well, havent done as much research as Hitmoney but I have tried several DIY products and have paid for Linex and Rhino LIner on trucks I have owned. Currently have an F250 with Rhino and believe it is the best professional bedliner I have purchased.

I swear by Raptor LIner. I have had it on my Jeep fenders, tub, front grill, hardtop, and custom made front bumper for over a year (on the grill, fender and hardtop). My Jeep is parked outside in the hot Alabama sun daily and is never garage kept. The Raptor Liner has yet to start fading. It looks like it did when I sprayed it on.

I totally agree prep is the key. I spent a lot more time prepping than I did spraying the Raptor Liner on. IMO you cant go wrong.

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post #20 of 31 Old 08-15-2012, 06:30 PM
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Some great info there Dennis. I did some research before I settled on Linex, mostly on truck forums and hands down Linex had the best reviews but I do believe they are really close and definitely alot to do with prep. I dont think I ever found a linex complaint about it peeling up though and I did find plenty of complaints about the Rhino doing it but it did take a year or longer.

I really believe a lot of Linex and Rhino dealers dont want to be bothered with all the prep work for a Jeep thats why they price them so high. I had my tub done for 600 had another price of 1100 at another Linex dealer 40 miles away. I had the front bumper done for 100 and my Tuffy drawer inside and out for another 100. The dealer that wanted 1100 wanted 300 just to do the front bumper and 150 each to do my Xenon flares and they were off the jeep

I will say de-masking the jeep wiring and stuff after spraying is a real pain. I think it took them longer to do that then to spray it, they had to cut through the tape and not the wires or wireloom. Golf tees are good for filling the bolt holes though, wrap tape around them if they arent wide enough.

Did you ever see the video of the egg tossed off the roof? I believe that was a rhino video.


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A Jeep just zipped past my house and I could swear I heard the driver yellin:

"The tkob is coming!! The tkob is coming!!"
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post #21 of 31 Old 08-16-2012, 08:00 AM
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Well, havent done as much research as Hitmoney but I have tried several DIY products and have paid for Linex and Rhino LIner on trucks I have owned. Currently have an F250 with Rhino and believe it is the best professional bedliner I have purchased.

I swear by Raptor LIner. I have had it on my Jeep fenders, tub, front grill, hardtop, and custom made front bumper for over a year (on the grill, fender and hardtop). My Jeep is parked outside in the hot Alabama sun daily and is never garage kept. The Raptor Liner has yet to start fading. It looks like it did when I sprayed it on.

I totally agree prep is the key. I spent a lot more time prepping than I did spraying the Raptor Liner on. IMO you cant go wrong.
I have to agree, from what I have seen its the best DIY stuff you can get right now and I wouldn't hesitate to use it on certain projects. But as great as it is, it doesn't even reside in the same universe as a high pressure hot sprayed Polyurea. But again, Rhino and Line-X can be overkill in certain applications as well, and that's where products like Raptor can fill the gap.


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Originally Posted by tkob1060 View Post
Some great info there Dennis. I did some research before I settled on Linex, mostly on truck forums and hands down Linex had the best reviews but I do believe they are really close and definitely alot to do with prep. I dont think I ever found a linex complaint about it peeling up though and I did find plenty of complaints about the Rhino doing it but it did take a year or longer.

I really believe a lot of Linex and Rhino dealers dont want to be bothered with all the prep work for a Jeep thats why they price them so high. I had my tub done for 600 had another price of 1100 at another Linex dealer 40 miles away. I had the front bumper done for 100 and my Tuffy drawer inside and out for another 100. The dealer that wanted 1100 wanted 300 just to do the front bumper and 150 each to do my Xenon flares and they were off the jeep

I will say de-masking the jeep wiring and stuff after spraying is a real pain. I think it took them longer to do that then to spray it, they had to cut through the tape and not the wires or wireloom. Golf tees are good for filling the bolt holes though, wrap tape around them if they arent wide enough.

Did you ever see the video of the egg tossed off the roof? I believe that was a rhino video.

You are absolutely correct, some dealers may not really be interested in doing certain jobs so instead of saying "No", they just price it to the point where you say no. It depends on how busy the shop is. Would they rather spend 4 hours on your tub, or knock out 3 or 4 truck beds if they have them to do.? It's a whole lot less labor to do a truck bed then the tub of a JK. Those of you who have got it done for 500 or 600 bucks got a deal IMO...between labor and product the shop didn't make much.

Sometimes also a shop may not exactly know how much to charge for a certain project and after underbidding and losing $$ they have learned to overbid to give themselves a cushion. Every time they pull the trigger of that gun it cost money not just in product but in run time of an extremely expensive machine. This takes place more on odd things people want done, or say when the first JKU pulled up and wanted the tub done.. the shop has no clue as to how much work is involved so they have to cover their ass. A shop who has done more JKU's can hone their price in more. Some shops also have a per click price of somewhere of about $2.00 so every click of the gun is 2 bucks, this would be for stuf like fenders and odd parts.

°lllll°


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post #22 of 31 Old 10-22-2012, 08:32 PM
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I just bought raptor liner and im going to spend my nights after work preparing the bed for the liner. I just bought the nylon cup brush, 150 grain sand paper, and believe I'm going to buy a few more things for cleaning the surface. I will take any advice and will really appreciate it. My question for folkxrock is for his statement DO NOT try to spray up for areas like the under side of a truck bed rail. Since the gun sort of spits the product, when you turn the gun up you will get some blobs that fall in areas you don't want them. What shall i do to get under the rails if I'm not to spray upward? PLease reply.
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post #23 of 31 Old 10-22-2012, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mike4939 View Post
I just bought raptor liner and im going to spend my nights after work preparing the bed for the liner. I just bought the nylon cup brush, 150 grain sand paper, and believe I'm going to buy a few more things for cleaning the surface. I will take any advice and will really appreciate it. My question for folkxrock is for his statement DO NOT try to spray up for areas like the under side of a truck bed rail. Since the gun sort of spits the product, when you turn the gun up you will get some blobs that fall in areas you don't want them. What shall i do to get under the rails if I'm not to spray upward? PLease reply.
I don't really have a good answer for this one. You might try to spray a vertical pattern where you are only spraying up for a brief moment. If you keep the nozzle turned up for more than a second or two the material will begin to build up and that is when you get a blob. If you do get a blob, you can wipe it off lightly and hit the area again on the next coat.

Also, I am not sure which nylon cup brush you purchased, but if it is the red one from Langman (Wire Trim) make sure you have a grinder that can turn slow enough. Prep is key on this stuff - but material thickness is just as important. I would also suggest buying some extra cans of product - you will find a use for if you don't use it on the tub. The extra $25 or $50 you spend on material will keep you from redoing the project later. I might even consider buying two kits and really overcoating the project. Good luck - post some photos when you finish.
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post #24 of 31 Old 10-23-2012, 05:43 AM
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For those of you who are also Pirate members, I'm a vendor over there. The one that sells paint. Yeah, I get a lot of business from a site where the members are trying to remove the paint in the rocks.

Anyway, here in central Florida, we have eight paint stores and typically, we sell Hippo Liner, Dominion Sure Seal's Gator Guard II, Raptor, SEM's Rock-It Liner, etc. There literally are probably ten different brands of the stuff that are so close in "quality" as to be impossible to discern the differences between them.

But, we are also the Florida distributor for Scorpion Liner. Scorpion uses a polyurethane technology instead of polyurea that cuts out the need for a $25,000 heated, agitated plural component application system. (Although, if you want, I'll sell you one of those...)

Scorpion dealers are all over Florida and will typically spray this material on a truck bed for you at competitive pricing to the "Big guys" spraying the polyurea. (BTW, the reason that those guys with their huge investments are doing it for peanuts is because everybody got into it and now they have to sell for a lot less because the market is flooded. I remember paying $700 for a Line-X job on my 96 F150 way back when.)

Although, you'll find just as many of them working in their shops doing something else while that machinery lies idle since it isn't worth their time to compete with the guys who only have one revenue stream and rely on a constant line of trucks coming in to be lined.

Anyway, Scorpion has a DIY brand called Al's Liner. It comes boxed in sizes that the Do It Yourselfer needs and the application equipment is separately packaged. The rep for the company tell us that "we're not too proud to tell you that this is a drywall hopper gun that we've modified to spray this..."


Scorpion/Al's Liner is far easier to use than the polyurea products due to the much smaller investment in equipment and simplicity of the design. Everything you need to mix and apply is sold in boxed kits. Dealers buy 99 gallon kits in drums, but the little guy who wants to do his own stuff, will find that it is economically priced for him too. AND we're working on a deal which will put the DIY kits of Al's Liner into some other automotive paint stores around FL which will give us greater coverage.

What I like about Scorpion as the salesman for it (call me a shill if you want), is that their support is incredible. If I don't know the answer, the guys at the help line do. Plus there are numerous YouTube videos that cover everything to do with the product.

Watch it Mothfukle.
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post #25 of 31 Old 10-23-2012, 05:44 PM
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I do have a grinder. I will spend a large amount of time prepping the bed before I actually spray in. I'm quite the over achiever and/or maybe obsessive when it comes to preparations or anything that requires time and elbow grease.
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