Double double carden? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 06-11-2012, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Double double carden?

So apparently it turns out that with the set up I have, I am unable to run a double carden front shaft w/out vibrations while maintaining at least decent caster.

I spoke with Tom Woods today and he said that the double double carden is an option for some people and I was wondering if anyone here has had to resort to this....

Thanks...

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post #2 of 15 Old 06-11-2012, 04:01 PM
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Was the conclusion you don't have enough lift to really necessitate one? Throw some pucks on it, or just go back to the stock shaft if that is what was determined. With all the headache you've had over it, it really doesn't need an aftermarket shaft with how much lift you have. The rear will be the one to go before the front on a 2dr anyway...more than likely..

If I remember right, you lost a very minimal amount of grease did you not? Did the boot tear?

I've put almost 50,000 miles on my stock driveshafts, 35,000 was with 2.5" of lift and about 13,000 has been with 3.5". Stock CVs are pretty forgiving.

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Last edited by Goodysgotacuda; 06-11-2012 at 04:04 PM.
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post #3 of 15 Old 06-11-2012, 04:03 PM
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Is there a such thing as a 'skinnier' factory style shaft?


Vandy


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post #4 of 15 Old 06-11-2012, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
Was the conclusion you don't have enough lift to really necessitate one? Throw some pucks on it, or just go back to the stock shaft if that is what was determined. With all the headache you've had over it, it really doesn't need an aftermarket shaft with how much lift you have. The rear will be the one to go before the front on a 2dr anyway...more than likely..

If I remember right, you lost a very minimal amount of grease did you not? Did the boot tear?

I've put almost 50,000 miles on my stock driveshafts, 35,000 was with 2.5" of lift and about 13,000 has been with 3.5". Stock CVs are pretty forgiving.
There is no conclusion. I brought the second tatton shaft to a local driveline shop, had it checked, the shaft was indeed pretty far off balance. Guy rebalanced it, I put it back on today, the vibs were definately better, but still there.

I brought my pinion up again to 5.5 degrees, just to elimate improper geometry as the culprit, again, the angle on the shaft was 7.5, leaving a difference of 2 degrees, it still vibed. Enough to where I did not at all feel comfortable driving it on the highway.

This has lead me to believe that either this dudes shafts are defective, or you cant run 5.13 gears w/ 2.5 inches of lift w/ a double carden, on my rig at least and still maintain decent caster w/out getting vibs. My shit was all over the road w/ 5.5 degrees at the pinion.

The stock shaft had been throwin grease, it does not appear as if the boot at the CV is torn no, so I dont know where the grease is even coming from but....there was a good amount spattered around in front of the Tcase output. I guess your right tho, I might as well go back to the stocker and run it until it fails...and at that point well see....Maybe RCV will have a driveshaft out then

2008 Black 2Dr 6spd D30/44
RK 2.5 X-Factor | Synergy tie rod | 35x12.5 MTRK's | BFH front | Genright rear | Yukon 5.13's | ARB front locker | Warn M8000 w/MasterPull synthetic | Rigid 10'' E-series
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post #5 of 15 Old 06-11-2012, 07:02 PM
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Spyntec hubs, real easy but $$

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post #6 of 15 Old 06-11-2012, 07:36 PM
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I had your same problem. I was fine (no vibes) with stock gears, but after my regear.....bad vibes.

I had my front JE Reel rebalanced; and was a little better, but not right. tried every imaginable combination of Caster/Pinion to no avail.

I ditched the JE, went with a Coast and adjusted my caster to 4.6ish. Drives great.

It's totally vibe free. Dunno if it was my shaft, but leaning toward the shaft quality and type.

What type of shaft are you running? The shaft I was running was the "OEM replacement" type. Throws the upper CV (Carden) waaay out in front of the TC and causes vibes.

The grease you were seeing is probably from the RZeppa joint boot. They tend to spit grease out of the edge of the boot, and onto your TC area, if there's too much angle.

Still wish RCV would make a front shaft using their joints.

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Last edited by Nukeman; 06-11-2012 at 07:41 PM.
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post #7 of 15 Old 06-11-2012, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlameRed View Post
Spyntec hubs, real easy but $$
Not worth it nor practical on a D30.

2008 Black 2Dr 6spd D30/44
RK 2.5 X-Factor | Synergy tie rod | 35x12.5 MTRK's | BFH front | Genright rear | Yukon 5.13's | ARB front locker | Warn M8000 w/MasterPull synthetic | Rigid 10'' E-series
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post #8 of 15 Old 06-11-2012, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nukeman View Post
I had your same problem. I was fine (no vibes) with stock gears, but after my regear.....bad vibes.

I had my front JE Reel rebalanced; and was a little better, but not right. tried every imaginable combination of Caster/Pinion to no avail.

I ditched the JE, went with a Coast and adjusted my caster to 4.6ish. Drives great.

It's totally vibe free. Dunno if it was my shaft, but leaning toward the shaft quality and type.

What type of shaft are you running? The shaft I was running was the "OEM replacement" type. Throws the upper CV (Carden) waaay out in front of the TC and causes vibes.

The grease you were seeing is probably from the RZeppa joint boot. They tend to spit grease out of the edge of the boot, and onto your TC area, if there's too much angle.

Still wish RCV would make a front shaft using their joints.
Tatton shaft. It was 1310 yokes at both tcase and diff ends. What gears do you have? How much lift?

2008 Black 2Dr 6spd D30/44
RK 2.5 X-Factor | Synergy tie rod | 35x12.5 MTRK's | BFH front | Genright rear | Yukon 5.13's | ARB front locker | Warn M8000 w/MasterPull synthetic | Rigid 10'' E-series
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post #9 of 15 Old 06-11-2012, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlameRed View Post
Spyntec hubs, real easy but $$
So I've been considering this myself. But it requires changing the bolt pattern for the wheels, so front and back to get matching wheels, what else did you run into? What was your approach to bolt pattern change? Swapp rear shafts?
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post #10 of 15 Old 06-11-2012, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigNate View Post
So I've been considering this myself. But it requires changing the bolt pattern for the wheels, so front and back to get matching wheels, what else did you run into? What was your approach to bolt pattern change? Swapp rear shafts?
This has some info for ya...i was just reading it...

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60993


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post #11 of 15 Old 06-11-2012, 08:03 PM
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I thought your front shaft had completely failed. I'm running the same thing you are but I have a 3/4" spacer on top of my front coils. Stock front and rear drive shafts are just fine.

Just put a stock one back on there. Where is yours?

Marcus


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post #12 of 15 Old 06-12-2012, 01:47 AM
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I can't run mine either. I have 4.5 lift with 5:38's. So getting the angle right is just not gonna work and still be drive able. I am going to talk to a guy and see about cutting loose the axle tubes and rotating the dif up to the right angle and welding it back together.
I just throw the shaft back on when I go wheeling.
Can't go back to stock shaft, they get tore up real quick and started to peel down edge of tranny pan.

You smell that?
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post #13 of 15 Old 06-12-2012, 02:18 AM
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rdlynch2, please keep us informed as your situation plays out. I'm very interested because I'm putting a 2.5" lift under my 08 Unltd this month and the one thing that concerns me is the front drive shaft. I've jacked the frame up to see how everything looks and the CV joint at the t-case is the one spot I expect problems early so if I need to replace that shaft I was planning on a double cardan but I want to hear from those who've already gone down that road ahead of me to avoid similar pitfalls.
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post #14 of 15 Old 06-12-2012, 05:02 AM
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2.5 lift and down you guys need to spend that 400 bucks somewhere else besides a driveshaft. It is not needed the oem shaft is fine.

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post #15 of 15 Old 06-12-2012, 06:37 AM
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FWIW, the first shafts I installed on my JK were Tattons re-branded by the suspension manufacturer. They cost almost double Tom Woods shafts. From day one I had nothing but trouble with front end vibes. Sent the front off to a driveline shop to be checked, his first question was "Who made these?". Not only was the shaft out of balance, it was off center by nearly .050". I finally just replaced them with Tom Woods shafts, which were a significant improvement. I did do a Spyntec conversion to kill the devil once and for all, but as mentioned $$$$$$$.

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Last edited by SoK66; 06-12-2012 at 04:27 PM.
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