Dana 44 and Dana 30 question - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 02-04-2012, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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Dana 44 and Dana 30 question

Can someone tell me if there are any difference in the Dana 30 and the Dana 44 front housings? Alot of the parts seem to interchange.
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post #2 of 9 Old 02-04-2012, 11:56 AM
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there is a pretty big difference everything from diff cover, to the carrier group, to the shafts, to the Cs, to the tubes, to the R&P, ect ect ect.

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post #3 of 9 Old 02-04-2012, 11:59 AM
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The C's, tubes, and brake assemblies are identical. The only real difference is the carrier and inner shafts.

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post #4 of 9 Old 02-04-2012, 12:10 PM
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my bad i thought the tubes and Cs were different too. carry on

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post #5 of 9 Old 02-04-2012, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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The carrier and shafts make sense. Thanks
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post #6 of 9 Old 02-04-2012, 12:34 PM
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If i could tag a question along here, would there be any point to upgrading a 30 to a 44 or too much in common to be worth it?

2011 Cosmo blue Unlimited Sport- stock for now.
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post #7 of 9 Old 02-04-2012, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by savage View Post
If i could tag a question along here, would there be any point to upgrading a 30 to a 44 or too much in common to be worth it?
That was my thought too. I was thinking about putting stronger internals in the housing.
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post #8 of 9 Old 02-04-2012, 02:38 PM
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IMO, if you pull a turd out of the toilet and polish it.....its still a turd. I would imagine that with some research on here or looking at some local salvage yards, you may be able to find a D44 for the same price (maybe a bit more) as upgrading your D30. May be worth looking into.

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post #9 of 9 Old 02-06-2012, 03:29 PM
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The D44 internals are all stronger, so are the u joints. Tubes and c's are the same, as previously mentioned. Lots of information on the New Generation D44 on the Dynatrac website.

Some guys build D30's and run them with 37's and have no issues. Some guys build D60's and break them. A lot has to do with driving style and terrain. The skinny pedal breaks more gears and axles than anything else, lockers contribute.

IMO, worth what you're paying for it, is run it as is with the plan to replace it with a D44 from a Rubicon or from TF or Dynatrac. If from a Rubicon, the tubes will still need help.

I have a Rubicon D44 and I'm still waiting to bend it to replace it with a Dynatrac or TF though.
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