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post #1 of 29 Old 01-06-2012, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone damage shocks while wheeling?

Looking at getting some bypass shocks and wondering if anyone has damaged their shocks sliding over objects and hitting them in the rear, stuff like that. If so i'm interested in how it happened as maybe I can come up with a solution to help keep me from damaging them.

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post #2 of 29 Old 01-06-2012, 10:51 PM
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I damage my rear shocks all the time when wheeling at the hammers. No way to really avoid it sometimes. Get coilovers... the coil will protect the shock...

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post #3 of 29 Old 01-06-2012, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlegRock View Post
I damage my rear shocks all the time when wheeling at the hammers. No way to really avoid it sometimes. Get coilovers... the coil will protect the shock...
Hmm that sucks. What about making a guard to protect the back side of the shock? I have RJ60 rear axle so I could get like 1/2" shorter shocks in the rear and make a guard to bolt on and protect the bottom half of the shock.

Are coilovers worth the extra time/money? especially on a 3" lift? Whats the 'best' way to set up coilovers as far as mounting is concerned?

I've considered coilovers but I'm thinking its going to cost me even more time and money than I'm ready for right now. Plus I just got coils with the Synergy lift I just bought lol. Not that i couldn't change directions. I haven't bought shocks yet, hence the reason I'm asking. I'd just rather not spend more $$ than is necessary.

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post #4 of 29 Old 01-06-2012, 11:34 PM
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I've bent two rear shocks thus far.

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post #5 of 29 Old 01-06-2012, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
I've bent two rear shocks thus far.
When I saw this thread the first thing that came to mind was that tweeked rear shock that you pulled off your rig!

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post #6 of 29 Old 01-06-2012, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by TEXASKEV View Post
When I saw this thread the first thing that came to mind was that tweeked rear shock that you pulled off your rig!
It wasn't as bad as this one!



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post #7 of 29 Old 01-07-2012, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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Damn... well maybe if I can make a guard I can reduce the possibility of damaging one. Either that or coilovers?

Don't really know much about running coilovers on a Jeep or if its even worth it on only a 3" lift.

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post #8 of 29 Old 01-07-2012, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
It wasn't as bad as this one!


Holy crap...

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post #9 of 29 Old 01-07-2012, 03:28 AM
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When my fist lift was put on ....long since changed....My trackbar relocation bracket was crushing the right rear shock at full stuff.

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post #10 of 29 Old 01-07-2012, 05:07 AM
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In my short time of wheeling have seen a few bent and blown shocks.
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post #11 of 29 Old 01-07-2012, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Topgun863 View Post
Hmm that sucks. What about making a guard to protect the back side of the shock? I have RJ60 rear axle so I could get like 1/2" shorter shocks in the rear and make a guard to bolt on and protect the bottom half of the shock.

Are coilovers worth the extra time/money? especially on a 3" lift? Whats the 'best' way to set up coilovers as far as mounting is concerned?

I've considered coilovers but I'm thinking its going to cost me even more time and money than I'm ready for right now. Plus I just got coils with the Synergy lift I just bought lol. Not that i couldn't change directions. I haven't bought shocks yet, hence the reason I'm asking. I'd just rather not spend more $$ than is necessary.

I'm not sure what kind of wheeling you do or plan to do... so I'll just write whatever comes to mind.

If you do not plan on doing hard rock crawling like Hammers or the tough trails in Moab, you'll be fine. I'm pretty sure that you won't even hurt your rear shocks on the Rubicon trail.

There are several companies that make a bolt on kit that will raise your rear shock 1-2 inches including Offroad Evolution and Poly Performance. You can create a plate to protect another inch or two of the bottom of the shock. This may save you on medium trails. However, if you start doing hard trails on rocks, when you will be comming down from a small waterfall or large rock, the uppermost portion of the shock will get damaged. So none of the protection will save you.

I have cheap TeraFlex shocks that probably don't even work in the rear. I gave up fixing them. But I know that it's not too expensive to fix a shock... (under $40 for my shocks). For me, there is no point to fix them because I will break em the next time I go wheeling. But that's why I would never put on expensive shocks until I get coilovers.

ALL OF THE ABOVE only applies for like 10% of the offroading community. Most Jeepers don't do trails that will damage shocks. However since your on 60's, I'm assuming this will eventually apply for you.

Coilovers aren't too pricy if you do it right. Probably the cheapest way to set up coilovers would be to get the Poly Performance rear coilover mounts and RadFlo coilovers (local Socal company). This is the way I am going when I have some $. The deciding factor in coilovers shouldn't be lift hight (that's almost irrelevant), it's more about what kind of wheeling you plan to do. Coilovers will give you a great ride and more flex. The downside is it takes time and patience to adjust them properly.

If you don't plan to do hard to extreme trails, I think you'll be fine without coilovers. Just if you plan to buy expensive shocks, make sure you buy from a company with great customer service and a company that won't charge you an arm and a leg to repair the shock. Since your in Socal, I would recommend looking into local companies since they will probably be easier to deal with if you break the shock.

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post #12 of 29 Old 01-07-2012, 05:58 PM
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Smashed steering stabilizer shock on a large rock.
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post #13 of 29 Old 01-07-2012, 07:19 PM
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think I've bent six now... always the rear passenger? I am with Oleg... cheap shocks are the way to go. Now... I run bent shocks as I am too poor to buy new ones every other time I go wheeling.

They are just in a horrible location. Bad Chrysler Engineer!!!
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post #14 of 29 Old 01-07-2012, 07:48 PM
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Yes and what OlegRock says! Cheap replacement on the shelf!
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post #15 of 29 Old 01-07-2012, 07:54 PM
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I'll concerned about damaging the mount to the point that you can't replace the shock. is that an issue?


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Coilovers aren't always safe either




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post #17 of 29 Old 01-07-2012, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam View Post
I'll concerned about damaging the mount to the point that you can't replace the shock. is that an issue?


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A pair of vice grips and you can straighten the mounting tabs to be able to replace the shocks.

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post #18 of 29 Old 01-07-2012, 08:49 PM
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Damn, you guys play rough with your junk!

FWIW, Kilby makes a rear shock guard that's rarely seen but is quite effective.
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post #19 of 29 Old 01-07-2012, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlegRock View Post
I'm not sure what kind of wheeling you do or plan to do... so I'll just write whatever comes to mind.

If you do not plan on doing hard rock crawling like Hammers or the tough trails in Moab, you'll be fine. I'm pretty sure that you won't even hurt your rear shocks on the Rubicon trail.

There are several companies that make a bolt on kit that will raise your rear shock 1-2 inches including Offroad Evolution and Poly Performance. You can create a plate to protect another inch or two of the bottom of the shock. This may save you on medium trails. However, if you start doing hard trails on rocks, when you will be comming down from a small waterfall or large rock, the uppermost portion of the shock will get damaged. So none of the protection will save you.

I have cheap TeraFlex shocks that probably don't even work in the rear. I gave up fixing them. But I know that it's not too expensive to fix a shock... (under $40 for my shocks). For me, there is no point to fix them because I will break em the next time I go wheeling. But that's why I would never put on expensive shocks until I get coilovers.

ALL OF THE ABOVE only applies for like 10% of the offroading community. Most Jeepers don't do trails that will damage shocks. However since your on 60's, I'm assuming this will eventually apply for you.

Coilovers aren't too pricy if you do it right. Probably the cheapest way to set up coilovers would be to get the Poly Performance rear coilover mounts and RadFlo coilovers (local Socal company). This is the way I am going when I have some $. The deciding factor in coilovers shouldn't be lift hight (that's almost irrelevant), it's more about what kind of wheeling you plan to do. Coilovers will give you a great ride and more flex. The downside is it takes time and patience to adjust them properly.

If you don't plan to do hard to extreme trails, I think you'll be fine without coilovers. Just if you plan to buy expensive shocks, make sure you buy from a company with great customer service and a company that won't charge you an arm and a leg to repair the shock. Since your in Socal, I would recommend looking into local companies since they will probably be easier to deal with if you break the shock.
Its hard to say what kind of wheeling I'll be doing in the future as this is my first Jeep build so I'm just kind of working my way up. Right now I'm only on 33's with a budget boost and I just bought a Synergy lift that I will be installing as soon as I get shocks. After that I'm making the jump to 37's. Right now the guys I wheel with don't do any extremely difficult trails like the Hammers but that doesn't mean I won't wheel with someone else once I feel both my rig and I are capable of taking on something like that.

Id have to say that I still may not be on some of the really difficult trails until I can financially afford to replace stuff WHEN i break it lol. And for now my Jeep is my DD so I try not to beat on it too hard though sometimes it happens. Being in SoCal we have a ton of choices for runs as you know so its not like I get bored lol. I spend a lot of time out in Anza Borrego, near Truckhaven, etc.; the high desert; and the local mountains. I wanted the bypass shocks for the ride and adjustable compression/rebound. I figured they'd ride extremely well on road, 'high' speed off road (which I do frequently getting to some of the trails), and decent flex. With the position sensitive damping on the bypass shocks I was thinking they'd be a good option, but they are pretty pricy which is why I was a little concerned about damage. I was thinking of going with a King 2.5 remote res with either 2 or 3 bypasses. I figure they're good shocks, made in the US, parts are readily available and they're easily rebuildable.

Coilovers are something I've thought about too but I don't know much about them in the off-road application. I know they're supposed to ride and flex better than pretty much anything else and they're very adjustable. My concern with coilovers is its going to mean more cutting/welding to do it right. Now I'm not afraid of doing any of that and I've already done irreversible stuff to my Jeep so thats no issue, I just think its more than I'm ready to take on. I know theres different setups for coilovers but I'm not sure what's the best route to go. From what I understand, to get the advantage of the suspension travel on coilovers they are going to be longer and in the rear doesn't that mean that you have to either angle them back or cut holes in the floor? I would think running them closer to vertical would be better geometry for the suspension travel and would result in better shock performance as the damping would be more consistent because the shock wouldn't be 'swinging' as much to follow the axle travel, but would be moving up and down as it should. (i could be wrong on this or over-thinking it though). But I'm not really ready to start cutting holes in the floor and welding on brackets and such. When I do that I'd like to build a full cage and tie it all in and do it right.

So I guess I still have a few questions about coilovers... How difficult and how much more expensive is it to run coilovers (including all the mounting/welding etc). Whats the best way to set up coilovers? I know certain companies make bolt on mounts for the front and such but to me that doesn't seem like it would hold up to as much abuse as weld on brackets. In the rear, is it best to mount coilovers vertically (i.e. though the floor)? (this would also get them more out of the way. With a 3" lift, about how long of coilovers should I be running? I'm just trying to get as much info as I can right now so I can make a good decision on shocks. Its a big purchase and will be something I'll have to live with for a while. I feel they are the heart of the suspension system and I want to do it right. I'm also not afraid to say "hey I'm not ready for coilovers yet" and I can manage without them until I'm at a good point where I can do them. But if its something worth doing sooner rather than later then that would be nice to know too.

07 X 2dr- 6spd


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post #20 of 29 Old 01-07-2012, 09:31 PM
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At one point I considered a rear coil over guard for our RECON bolt on system but after running into countless clearance hurdles the plan was scrapped.

We have never had a single rear coil over come back to us with a failure due to placement/contact. Nearly all of our local customers play with us on the Hammers and Rubicon and are thrilled with how col overs perform on the rocks.

Yes the coil over hits the rocks and yes the powder coat does get rashed up. However the spring takes all the abuse and keeps on doing its job. The expensive and critical shock sees zero damage.

http://www.rebeloffroad.com/Jeep_4x4..._Kit_s/115.htm

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post #21 of 29 Old 01-07-2012, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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At one point I considered a rear coil over guard for our RECON bolt on system but after running into countless clearance hurdles the plan was scrapped.

We have never had a single rear coil over come back to us with a failure due to placement/contact. Nearly all of our local customers play with us on the Hammers and Rubicon and are thrilled with how col overs perform on the rocks.

Yes the coil over hits the rocks and yes the powder coat does get rashed up. However the spring takes all the abuse and keeps on doing its job. The expensive and critical shock sees zero damage.

http://www.rebeloffroad.com/Jeep_4x4..._Kit_s/115.htm

Thats good to know.

I may end up doing coilovers in the long run. I've seen one setup I really liked and would love to do some day but its pretty costly. Check out Friar Engineering's Jeep. Its a 4dr thats been stretched about 2" in the front and 3 in the rear. They have wider Spydertracks 9" axles front and rear to accommodate the coilover system. The Jeep looks so bad ass. I love the geometry of the front and rear coilover mounts too. in the front, they have a bar that goes across the front of the engine compartment and ties the two front coilover mounts together. I was pretty impressed and the amount of flex is impressive. They're out of San Diego and I'm not sure if they're doing a ton of production on their stuff but their website has some decent info so its worth a look. I'm still not entirely sure what I want to do at the moment. I'd like to get some more good info on coilovers. I appreciate all the input guys, please keep it coming. I'm going to have to make a decision here soon so the more input I can get the better.

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post #22 of 29 Old 01-08-2012, 11:50 AM
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Its hard to say what kind of wheeling I'll be doing in the future as this is my first Jeep build so I'm just kind of working my way up. Right now I'm only on 33's with a budget boost and I just bought a Synergy lift that I will be installing as soon as I get shocks. After that I'm making the jump to 37's. Right now the guys I wheel with don't do any extremely difficult trails like the Hammers but that doesn't mean I won't wheel with someone else once I feel both my rig and I are capable of taking on something like that.

Id have to say that I still may not be on some of the really difficult trails until I can financially afford to replace stuff WHEN i break it lol. And for now my Jeep is my DD so I try not to beat on it too hard though sometimes it happens. Being in SoCal we have a ton of choices for runs as you know so its not like I get bored lol. I spend a lot of time out in Anza Borrego, near Truckhaven, etc.; the high desert; and the local mountains. I wanted the bypass shocks for the ride and adjustable compression/rebound. I figured they'd ride extremely well on road, 'high' speed off road (which I do frequently getting to some of the trails), and decent flex. With the position sensitive damping on the bypass shocks I was thinking they'd be a good option, but they are pretty pricy which is why I was a little concerned about damage. I was thinking of going with a King 2.5 remote res with either 2 or 3 bypasses. I figure they're good shocks, made in the US, parts are readily available and they're easily rebuildable.

Coilovers are something I've thought about too but I don't know much about them in the off-road application. I know they're supposed to ride and flex better than pretty much anything else and they're very adjustable. My concern with coilovers is its going to mean more cutting/welding to do it right. Now I'm not afraid of doing any of that and I've already done irreversible stuff to my Jeep so thats no issue, I just think its more than I'm ready to take on. I know theres different setups for coilovers but I'm not sure what's the best route to go. From what I understand, to get the advantage of the suspension travel on coilovers they are going to be longer and in the rear doesn't that mean that you have to either angle them back or cut holes in the floor? I would think running them closer to vertical would be better geometry for the suspension travel and would result in better shock performance as the damping would be more consistent because the shock wouldn't be 'swinging' as much to follow the axle travel, but would be moving up and down as it should. (i could be wrong on this or over-thinking it though). But I'm not really ready to start cutting holes in the floor and welding on brackets and such. When I do that I'd like to build a full cage and tie it all in and do it right.

So I guess I still have a few questions about coilovers... How difficult and how much more expensive is it to run coilovers (including all the mounting/welding etc). Whats the best way to set up coilovers? I know certain companies make bolt on mounts for the front and such but to me that doesn't seem like it would hold up to as much abuse as weld on brackets. In the rear, is it best to mount coilovers vertically (i.e. though the floor)? (this would also get them more out of the way. With a 3" lift, about how long of coilovers should I be running? I'm just trying to get as much info as I can right now so I can make a good decision on shocks. Its a big purchase and will be something I'll have to live with for a while. I feel they are the heart of the suspension system and I want to do it right. I'm also not afraid to say "hey I'm not ready for coilovers yet" and I can manage without them until I'm at a good point where I can do them. But if its something worth doing sooner rather than later then that would be nice to know too.

Your right about the proper placement of coilovers. Ideally you can cut through the rear cargo area and get 14-16" coilovers going down to the upper part of your axle. That will give you better performance than the Poly Performance or Rebel kit. Making a custom bar in the rear cargo area will probably cost as much as the poly performance kit if you know a good but cheap welder (plenty in socal). However, the loss of cargo space may be difficult to bear. Another option (and probably the best) since you have a RJ60 is going outboard - placing your coilovers in the fenderwell. This will minimize loss of space and give you the best setup. Realistically though, going with the Rebel or PP kit and having your coilovers on an angle probably won't affect you much. None of us (even the hammers crew) suffer from the coilovers being on an angle. I would stay away from the Evolution Lever System though. Too many people have too many issues with that system.

You can always get the $ shocks and go to coilovers later. Shocks don't lose too much value. Like I said though, buy shocks from a company that is easy to deal with if you crush the shock. From what I heard (second hand), King isn't too easy to deal with.

As for prices and mounts. For the rear, you can get the poly kit for around $300 or go through your cargo area for the same price with your welder. Or you can get outboard mounts (guessing around $600). Then it just depends on what coilovers you want to do. I believe you can get RadFlo coilovers for around $700 - $1000 for the pair with the coils depending on size and if you want the reservoir. So you can get rear coilovers mounted for around $1000.

As for the fronts, there are several options - Rock Krawler, Rebel, Tribe4x4. All three are great companies, but I would go with Tribe4x4. Their mounts are strong as hell and are welded and they offer a killer price with the coilovers. The full kit from them is around $1300.


P.S. - there are guys on here that did the rear outboard option and the rear cargo area option. Use the search and you'll find them.

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post #23 of 29 Old 01-08-2012, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by OlegRock View Post
Your right about the proper placement of coilovers. Ideally you can cut through the rear cargo area and get 14-16" coilovers going down to the upper part of your axle. That will give you better performance than the Poly Performance or Rebel kit. Making a custom bar in the rear cargo area will probably cost as much as the poly performance kit if you know a good but cheap welder (plenty in socal). However, the loss of cargo space may be difficult to bear. Another option (and probably the best) since you have a RJ60 is going outboard - placing your coilovers in the fenderwell. This will minimize loss of space and give you the best setup. Realistically though, going with the Rebel or PP kit and having your coilovers on an angle probably won't affect you much. None of us (even the hammers crew) suffer from the coilovers being on an angle. I would stay away from the Evolution Lever System though. Too many people have too many issues with that system.

You can always get the $ shocks and go to coilovers later. Shocks don't lose too much value. Like I said though, buy shocks from a company that is easy to deal with if you crush the shock. From what I heard (second hand), King isn't too easy to deal with.

As for prices and mounts. For the rear, you can get the poly kit for around $300 or go through your cargo area for the same price with your welder. Or you can get outboard mounts (guessing around $600). Then it just depends on what coilovers you want to do. I believe you can get RadFlo coilovers for around $700 - $1000 for the pair with the coils depending on size and if you want the reservoir. So you can get rear coilovers mounted for around $1000.

As for the fronts, there are several options - Rock Krawler, Rebel, Tribe4x4. All three are great companies, but I would go with Tribe4x4. Their mounts are strong as hell and are welded and they offer a killer price with the coilovers. The full kit from them is around $1300.


P.S. - there are guys on here that did the rear outboard option and the rear cargo area option. Use the search and you'll find them.
Yeah I would really rather not go through the cargo area... I still carry tons of shit in my Jeep and still use my back seat on occasion so until I can completely cage it, do a stretch and do baja seats in it, I don't see cutting through the center of the floor for coilovers.

I like the looks of the Poly front coilover mounts, but I will take a look at those other ones too. Are there any companies that make mounts to go outboard on the rear coilovers? I'm thinking thats looking like a really good option, though I still need to see if I can find a few threads on it. I agree with you, the Evo Leveler looks pretty complicated for the rear (though its nice that everything tucks up so well) I would still probably steer clear of that for now. Any idea what length of coilovers I should be running in the front for around 3-4" of lift? And on the rear with the outboard option, or angled back like Poly's rear mount??

What brand of shock would you recommend for both bypass/remote res and for coilovers?? The Kings to me looked like they were well built with great parts and they should be easy for me to rebuild and revolve and such as parts should be available, thats why I was looking at them.

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post #24 of 29 Old 01-08-2012, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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I posted a more detailed thread with my questions/concerns about coilovers, as I didn't really want to take this one off topic any more. Here is a link to that thread.

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showth...60#post1023160

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post #25 of 29 Old 01-08-2012, 03:01 PM
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I broke my radflo coilover and after a little digging around on the interwebs it seems to be a bit of a problem for them.
So I decided to go with a different brand coilover. I'm going with king 12" length but I'm getting the 2.5 instead of the 2.0. There are obvious benefits to the bigger version.
Also decided to do the rear coilovers. I'm going to mount mine vertical outboard of the frame. I have longer than stock axles so I have the room to mount them towards the front of the axle just above the LCA's without going into the tub. This will allow me to keep my rear sway for more stability. Research has said outboard coilovers are stable enough without the sway but since I have room why ditch it. Plan to put disconnects on it for offroad use.
The other good thing about the kings is that they can have them to me in a week vs 3+ weeks for rock krawler and fox. They have been very helpful with valving and spring rates etc.



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