Recommended skid/under armor upgrade on a JKU Rubicon - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 12-25-2011, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Recommended skid/under armor upgrade on a JKU Rubicon

I haven't quite found a good answer to this so I figure I'd just ask it outright. I want to make sure my underside is properly protected. I have a JKU Rubicon and I know it has some stock skids. So.....

1. Which stock skids are adequate, if any?

2. Which stock skids are best replaced with something non-OEM?

3. What skidage should I add on top of what comes on the Rubicon? The Evap skid is at the top of the list. Anything else?


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post #2 of 27 Old 12-25-2011, 04:11 PM
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My buddy has full RR skid and uses them regularly, I have a rubi with some pretty decent scrapes on my gas tank skid! Not really sure if it's worth it or not depending on what u plan on doing with your rig. A few times wheeling up in PA I have came close to catching the oil pan on tree stumps but nothing yet!

My $.02 would be really analyze what kind of wheeling and where then go from there! I did make an evap skid just to protect it from rocks on the road not really anything else!

For piece of mind I thought about going all out and doing aluminum for everything eunderneath but not sure if it is truely needed! If your planning on alot of mud romping remember you have to try and clean ontop of all the skids you install and you gas tank!

Not sure if this helps but at least it's a bump to the top!

Merry christmas !

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post #3 of 27 Old 12-25-2011, 04:17 PM
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Depends on what you want to do with it really. The aluminum is a good option because weight adds up quickly (bumpers/meats etc..)

I went with the RROR skids (full) and am very happy. If I had it to do again I would do the RROR aluminum setup with the replaceable UHMW wear plates. http://www.riverraider.com/store/ind...&product_id=65

Lots of good options out there.






Last edited by Mr.RonGilbert; 12-25-2011 at 04:25 PM.
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post #4 of 27 Old 12-25-2011, 04:28 PM
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I have the full RROR and love it it has saved my ass a few times

Hit up Jason at KOR he can get you what you need

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post #5 of 27 Old 12-25-2011, 04:43 PM
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The stock skids are pretty good. My transfer case skid is still working good. Have not hit the oil pan yet. Ripped the stock transmission skid off on a rock somewhere....
Trans pan has some dents and slow leak...need to replace with rock krawlers deep sump pan asap. evap. can is still good too which is hard to believe.

I really dont want to add more weight.

Gonna spend my $ on 40's to clear the rocks

If your not gonna wheel big rocks dont worry about it
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post #6 of 27 Old 12-25-2011, 05:29 PM
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I have bench mark oil pan and rock krawler tranny pan. Gas skid has done its job and then some, one of these days Im going to beat it back flat and do something better

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post #7 of 27 Old 12-25-2011, 06:11 PM
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Some guys say the stock Rubi skid system is adequate, just needs to be supplemented with something for the oil and trans pans, like the M.O.R.E. skid. I have the Poly full system, plus Rock Hard 4x4 fuel tank skid. I added the latter after beating the crap out of the stock tank skid. The Poly system is tough as nails, you can lift the entire rig on it. However, it makes servicing the trans difficult (has to be completely removed) and it adds over 170 lbs with the Rock Hard. One of our club memebers has added a Poison Spyder cross member and a MORE skid, leaving the stock transfer case and tank skids.
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post #8 of 27 Old 12-25-2011, 08:06 PM
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I added protection to the flowing areas and have had no issues

Rugged Ridge E-disco skid

Benchmark Designs Rock Crawler oil pan

Benchmark Designs Evap Skid

I have scrapes on every skid on the underside, but no damage beyond paint and have not damaged any mechanical part of my jeep. I play in rocks, mud, water and woods.
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post #9 of 27 Old 12-26-2011, 07:13 AM
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Running Poly performance on mine & poison syder evap skid.

2014 Rubicon on the build!
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post #10 of 27 Old 12-26-2011, 07:46 AM
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A lot depends on the kind of wheeling you plan to do. Guessing in VA? The RR aluminum skids will probably be a great choice for you. Save the weight and add a little protection.
IF you are really worried about the strength the only one I had an issue with in aluminum was the one that connects to the gas tank for the tranny. Get that one in steel and the rest in aluminum.
I installed the gas tank skid over my stock skid and it worked perfectly in the rocks I would not add the weight of steel. Just my .02
Good luck on your choice!
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post #11 of 27 Old 12-26-2011, 09:22 AM
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Replace it all with ROCKHARD and be done with it.
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post #12 of 27 Old 12-26-2011, 01:48 PM
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I recently installed a full set of rror aluminum skids... I can say the went in great and to date have protected me on more then one occasion. I will be adding the wear plates in the future. Mainly because the aluminum does not like to slide all that much.

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post #13 of 27 Old 12-28-2011, 11:40 AM
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The rr aluminum are strong enough for most non hard wheeling. Any steel ones are going to be able to better handle sharp rocks. Steel might also help give a lower cog. The rr trans skid will crack/bend and rub on the exhaust cross pipes. The edges where they are stamped with the logo can dig into the pan itself if you whack it hard enough. Surprisingly, even great skids don't makeup for poor driving. Ask me how I know.
The gas tank skid is good in aluminum for me (it's light and fit over the stock skid) but I will eventually have steel for the rest.

Last edited by coilrod; 12-28-2011 at 11:43 AM.
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post #14 of 27 Old 12-28-2011, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaK View Post
Replace it all with ROCKHARD and be done with it.
^^^This.
There's a big debate between steel vs. aluminum skid plates (weight of the steel versus the aluminum "sticking" to the rocks). Like it was said above, it all depends on what you're doing with it, and where you're offroading. If you are going to be limited to just gravel roads and fire trails, then the stock skids are fine. If you're planning on doing a bit more rock crawling and such, then the Rock Hard 4x4 skid setup is great. (...or River Raider)

You'll also want to swap out for a heavier-duty set of diff covers.

My list includes:

Rock Hard full skids (they're not really that color)


Poison Spyder Evap skid



Poison Spyder Diff Covers

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post #15 of 27 Old 12-28-2011, 01:13 PM
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Some of the full systems do a nice job at protecting the crossmember before you bash the heck out of it (depending on what terrain you are doing/your driving style).

The OEM transmission skid can catch on a rock do to it's design and it hangs a bit lower than the aftermarket ones. Because of that I ended up choosing RR's oil/tranny skid.

IMO, the OEM transfer case skid does it's job pretty well. (I cut those ears off to make it flush with the RR). I'm putting that skid money towards other things.

Gas skid takes a beating, But can be hammered out. A RR skid is somewhere (way down) on the list of upgrades though.

Evap - that's easy: skid it, move it or lose it. I moved mine vs skidded on the off, off chance that a boulder would hang me up in front of a skid or throw me off my line.

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post #16 of 27 Old 12-28-2011, 08:29 PM
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Check out http://www.tntcustoms.com/jkbellyarmor.aspx

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post #17 of 27 Old 12-29-2011, 11:34 AM
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RROR steel..

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post #18 of 27 Old 12-29-2011, 05:40 PM
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I have G/2 front and rear aluminum diff covers, Rugged Ridge evap skid and rear control arm skids, Rancho oil pan skid and JKS front control arm skids.

I'm not a rock crawler, just a trail rider and my set-up works for me.

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post #19 of 27 Old 12-29-2011, 06:33 PM
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Good thread. I'll probably end up doing the RROR Skid System (steel) as theres a ton of big rocks out here in SoCal. Its heavy but at least I have a 2dr and the weight will be down low so it shouldn't be horrible.

07 X 2dr- 6spd


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post #20 of 27 Old 12-29-2011, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Great stuff folks....thanks! Yeah, I won't be doing any major rock crawling here in VA. But i'll have the chance to scrape my belly on something.

Someone brought up a good point....protecting the crossmember. I see that PS just came out with something for that. Is that overkill for a lite wheeler?

TC
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post #21 of 27 Old 12-29-2011, 09:55 PM
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Any idea what the weight difference would be between the RROR Full skid setup in steel vs aluminum?

My 06 LJ Rubi went from 3900 lbs to 6100 lbs and my 01 XJ went from 3100 lbs to 4900 lbs.

I don't want to make my 4300 lb JKUR weigh in at 7000 lbs, but if the weight savings is marginal I think I will stick with the steel.

Anyone know the weight difference?

Justin

Current Jeeps:
01 XJ Jeep Minivan Mall Crawler Supreme Stormtrooper
12 JKUR Jeep Minivan Mall Crawler Supreme Super Duper Stormtrooper

Previous Jeeps:
2006 LJ Rubi Crawler....................1996 ZJ Laredo DD
2005 TJ Rubi DD..........................1994 ZJ Limited DD
2002 WJ Overland DD/Mild.............1984 CJ7 DD/Mild
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post #22 of 27 Old 12-29-2011, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TK 421 View Post
Any idea what the weight difference would be between the RROR Full skid setup in steel vs aluminum?

My 06 LJ Rubi went from 3900 lbs to 6100 lbs and my 01 XJ went from 3100 lbs to 4900 lbs.

I don't want to make my 4300 lb JKUR weigh in at 7000 lbs, but if the weight savings is marginal I think I will stick with the steel.

Anyone know the weight difference?
Their website says the aluminum skid system weighs about half of the steel. The aluminum should work great if you don't plan to play in the rocks a lot. I don't really have that option here in SoCal lol. Id tear up the aluminum so quick its not even funny. There is something to be said for picking and choosing which skids to run though IMO, depending on what all you're doing and how good you are at picking lines.

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post #23 of 27 Old 12-30-2011, 01:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Topgun863 View Post
Their website says the aluminum skid system weighs about half of the steel. The aluminum should work great if you don't plan to play in the rocks a lot. I don't really have that option here in SoCal lol. Id tear up the aluminum so quick its not even funny. There is something to be said for picking and choosing which skids to run though IMO, depending on what all you're doing and how good you are at picking lines.
I saw the 1/2 the weight text on their site, but if we are only talking about 50lbs difference, that's a no brainer. Steel all the way. If its a 150 lb difference, then I would go aluminum and take the risk. Hell I bent up the RE 1/4" rolled steel skid on my LJ anyway, Clayton isn't very forgiving.

I like to think I am a great wheeler, but I've wheeled on 40" LTBs on a 108" LJ wheelbase for so long I know I'm gonna drag this long fat ass minivan across all kinds of shit. That being said, this is going to be my DD/adventure rig for a few years so I'm not gonna be wheeling hard right now. I have an armored/built XJ to beat on. I also don't like re-doing stuff so I don't mind putting on a few extra pounds right now to avoid having to redo it later.

Anyone have any idea what either one weighs? We can do the math to figure the other one out

Justin

Current Jeeps:
01 XJ Jeep Minivan Mall Crawler Supreme Stormtrooper
12 JKUR Jeep Minivan Mall Crawler Supreme Super Duper Stormtrooper

Previous Jeeps:
2006 LJ Rubi Crawler....................1996 ZJ Laredo DD
2005 TJ Rubi DD..........................1994 ZJ Limited DD
2002 WJ Overland DD/Mild.............1984 CJ7 DD/Mild
1997 TJ Sport Crawler

Last edited by TK 421; 12-30-2011 at 01:23 AM.
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post #24 of 27 Old 12-30-2011, 06:32 AM
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All the skid systems flat out suck! There... I said it, since no one else will. Of course, if you aren't really seeing this with your aftermarket skids, I'd say the stock ones would have done you just fine, with the addition of a 'skin' for your evap and oil pan.

Now.... that being said, most of the skids out there are okay, with a little help.

What needs to be done to ALL of the skid systems (manufactures, are you reading?), is to add cross stiffeners. If you don't, you'll quickly see these nice skids turn into concaved messes.

Then.... a necessary addition is the little bolt protectors that RockHard provides with it's skid system. Otherwise.... goo luck getting those bolts out when you need to. Might be easy work in a shop with the proper tools, but on the trail.... big problem!! These little fuckers are 15 bucks each.... so add that to the total of whomever you go with (unless it is the Rockhard skid, as they come with them).

I run the Treks product.... have seen a lot of issues and a couple of redesigns. With all the redesigns, it isn't a bad system if you add the Rockhard bolt skids and cross stiffeners. I really like how Bob, the owner of Treks, listens and updates the design after real world reports from the field. Kudos to him for that! (although I haven't seen a bolt skid (maybe patented by Rockhard?), nor do I believe he's incorporated cross stiffeners yet.

If I was to repurchase today.... hands down the Rockhard, as it is the only one that gives the bolt skids in the price, the other kits you have to add it as an extra. Although I do like the Poly product too.... it looks STOUT with it's crossmember.
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post #25 of 27 Old 12-30-2011, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abendx View Post
All the skid systems flat out suck! There... I said it, since no one else will. Of course, if you aren't really seeing this with your aftermarket skids, I'd say the stock ones would have done you just fine, with the addition of a 'skin' for your evap and oil pan.

Now.... that being said, most of the skids out there are okay, with a little help.

What needs to be done to ALL of the skid systems (manufactures, are you reading?), is to add cross stiffeners. If you don't, you'll quickly see these nice skids turn into concaved messes.

Then.... a necessary addition is the little bolt protectors that RockHard provides with it's skid system. Otherwise.... goo luck getting those bolts out when you need to. Might be easy work in a shop with the proper tools, but on the trail.... big problem!! These little fuckers are 15 bucks each.... so add that to the total of whomever you go with (unless it is the Rockhard skid, as they come with them).

I run the Treks product.... have seen a lot of issues and a couple of redesigns. With all the redesigns, it isn't a bad system if you add the Rockhard bolt skids and cross stiffeners. I really like how Bob, the owner of Treks, listens and updates the design after real world reports from the field. Kudos to him for that! (although I haven't seen a bolt skid (maybe patented by Rockhard?), nor do I believe he's incorporated cross stiffeners yet.

If I was to repurchase today.... hands down the Rockhard, as it is the only one that gives the bolt skids in the price, the other kits you have to add it as an extra. Although I do like the Poly product too.... it looks STOUT with it's crossmember.
I agree. As long as you at least cover your oil pan with SOMETHING and skid you evap, your good to go.....the stock skids are more than adequate, for a while at least. I have only heard of a few people even HITTING there oil pan, let alone destroying it the point of where you need a tow home. Now if you have an auto, def a good idea to get the HD tranny pan from RK, but for a manual guy like me, a benchmark or rancho for the oil pan, and a skid for the evap is enough. Even for rocks (I think)

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