35's with 3.73 gears. - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 24 Old 10-19-2011, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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35's with 3.73 gears.

I know that certain aspects of this topic has been beaten like a dead horse, but I wanted to ask because it is something that I have not been able to find very much info on.

How do 35 inch tires handle OFF-ROAD with 3.73 gears and a non-rubi, command trac 2,7:1 transfer case?

I am running this set-up, except on 33 inch KM2's. I am thinking of getting rid of the 33's for 35's (just recently added the 2.5 inch RK stock mod, and am regretting my decision on going with 33's, they look a tad small).

With 33's, a 6 speed manual, a non-rubi transfer case and 3.73 gears, my crawl ratio sucks as is. So I was wondering how bad 35's would handle with this set up and weather or not, selling the 33's and getting 35's, is worth doing, due to the disadvantages I would suffer when in 4lo.

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post #2 of 24 Old 10-19-2011, 02:05 PM
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You'll be fine. I don't what your expectation is but I have a non-rubi also w/ 35" Kelly Safari TSR's.

I too had 33" tires before, sold them for bigger.

-Dan

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post #3 of 24 Old 10-19-2011, 02:10 PM
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ran that way for about 8 mo., you'll be fine, its way under geared and you may have some issues getting going over an obstacle, but I ran mud/trails and a little rock with little issue.

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post #4 of 24 Old 10-19-2011, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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How does the undergearing affect your ability to crawl? Do you have to keep the rpms a lot higher to not stall? Im curious as to what things would be like

2008 Black 2Dr 6spd D30/44
RK 2.5 X-Factor | Synergy tie rod | 35x12.5 MTRK's | BFH front | Genright rear | Yukon 5.13's | ARB front locker | Warn M8000 w/MasterPull synthetic | Rigid 10'' E-series
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post #5 of 24 Old 10-19-2011, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdlynch2 View Post
How does the undergearing affect your ability to crawl? Do you have to keep the rpms a lot higher to not stall? Im curious as to what things would be like
Actually, if I understand crawl and final ratios(factoring in gears/tires), your RPMs would be lower, but the engine and driveline components would have to work harder to achieve the same crawl.

Anyone feel free confirm or correct me on this. I'm in something of the same boat... considering the 35's but with 3.73 gearing & man trans, she's already kinda sluggy.

Thinking if I were to go to 35's or larger, I'd want a little more pep in her step, which unless I been lied to, will be achieved with better gearing, no?



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post #6 of 24 Old 10-19-2011, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdlynch2 View Post
How does the undergearing affect your ability to crawl? Do you have to keep the rpms a lot higher to not stall? Im curious as to what things would be like
Yes you will need the rpms to be higher, but you don't want to necessarily go faster...which leads to clutch slipping. To reduce clutch slipping you need "torque multiplication" (crawl ratio). This allows slower wheel speeds at idle, the torque multiplication of lower gearing allows for the engine/clutch to see less of the load and it to be applied to the transfer case and axles.

Dancin Dan, talk with Marcus (RiverCityOffRoad) he just temporarily has 37s with 3.73s, 6speed and a Superchips.

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post #7 of 24 Old 10-19-2011, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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So essentially it will be more difficult to crawl on bigger tires without a prior regear. Seems to me that my decision to go with 33's is beginning to make more and more sense. Other than looks, I cant seem to find any other reason to go up to 35's without regearing first. Or getting a rubi xcase first.

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post #8 of 24 Old 10-19-2011, 06:49 PM
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Shoot I ran 3:21's with 35's. It was a learning experience to get the right rpm's to crawl up stuff. Doable of course but not pleasant.


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post #9 of 24 Old 10-20-2011, 08:42 AM
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A programer will also help.

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post #10 of 24 Old 10-20-2011, 10:15 AM
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i've been running 35's with stock 3.73's and wheeled out in moab and didn't haev a problem. i have an aev procal to help with the speedo, but other than that, don't get your hopes up when driving on the highway that you're going to pass anyone, because most likely it's not going to happen.

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post #11 of 24 Old 10-20-2011, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdlynch2 View Post
So essentially it will be more difficult to crawl on bigger tires without a prior regear. .
Yes.


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post #12 of 24 Old 10-20-2011, 11:09 AM
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I'm also still running 3.21's with small 35's on a six speed, (35x12.5 KM2's=13.9 measured) and as the other guy said, it can be a little unpleasant at times, but totally do-able. 4.88's are in the future when I can swing new ax-daddies but especially if the OP is staying with the KM, as they run small, with 3.73's....hell I'd never even re-gear.

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post #13 of 24 Old 10-20-2011, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtphoto JK View Post
A programer will also help.
How does this help? from everything I have read with a manual trans. it does'nt do anything for us except recalibrate the speedo. I also run 33s with 321s and going to 35s this weekend. Set to re-gear in the next couple weeks to 488s

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post #14 of 24 Old 10-20-2011, 11:27 AM
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How does this help? from everything I have read with a manual trans. it does'nt do anything for us except recalibrate the speedo. I also run 33s with 321s and going to 35s this weekend. Set to re-gear in the next couple weeks to 488s
A superchips with the tow tune is certainly noticeable to someone that drives a manual JK everyday. A procal with not help anything but maybe an auto with shift points and a calibrated speedo.

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post #15 of 24 Old 10-20-2011, 11:31 AM
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Here goes.

I ran 35" MTRs on my X with 3.73s and 6MT for over a year. Never a complaint on the road, no complaints offroad.

I currently have 37" MTRs on the same Jeep with the same setup. Ran it around like this for a couple days and parked it. It was miserable.

Sold Jennie's JKU and pulled the Superchips out of it. Decided to try it on mine and was VERY surprised by how much difference it made. The throttle response feels "right" now, like it's not drive by wire anymore.

It'll hold 70 - 75 MPH on the highway in 6th and I actually took it wheeling like this last weekend because I haven't had time to do all the axle work I have sitting here. It wasn't bad, but it's definitely more laboring on your left leg and the clutch. It doesn't crawl well at all.

For what it's worth, try to find someone with a Superchips who is willing to let you try it out. I think you'll be surprised by how much difference it DOES make on the 6MT JKs. I didn't think it would make any difference at all either.

For 35s I think that 3.73s, 6MT, and the X/Sport transfer case is fine. Especially for how 99% of us wheel. Gear it if/when you can, but don't let that stop you.

Marcus


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post #16 of 24 Old 10-20-2011, 12:01 PM
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................ wrong thread lol
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post #17 of 24 Old 10-20-2011, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Just to get opinions, what would you guys do in my situation? Would you keep the 33's and upgrade to 35's down the road, or would you sell the 33's and go for 35's?

Heres how she sits now.

2008 Black 2Dr 6spd D30/44
RK 2.5 X-Factor | Synergy tie rod | 35x12.5 MTRK's | BFH front | Genright rear | Yukon 5.13's | ARB front locker | Warn M8000 w/MasterPull synthetic | Rigid 10'' E-series
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post #18 of 24 Old 10-20-2011, 02:19 PM
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I always sell my tires while they are still valuable (have tread) so that the hit for new tires isn't quite so harsh.

It doesn't look bad to me, but you are the only one who's opinion really matters here.

Marcus


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post #19 of 24 Old 02-18-2013, 08:38 PM
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Im in the same situation now.. I know for a fact that I want 35's. I just want to know how much power im going to lose and how bad it's going to effect my mpg.
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post #20 of 24 Old 02-18-2013, 09:56 PM
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Im kinda in the same boat as well. 35's, 3.21 gears in a 2012 auto. I haven't wheeled hard enough for it to matter off-road yet but the on the highway things are not nice so first will be Marcus sending me a procal module here in the next few weeks and I will wrestle with what gear ratio to go with. I will say that after talking to Marcus a month or so ago I am pretty set on doing 3.73's. Again I am not like a lot of folks on this board so be aware of that. I don't mall crawl but my rig is mainly for hunting fishing and camping.
Good luck

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post #21 of 24 Old 02-19-2013, 05:36 AM
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Hey man . I will have my stock 4.10's coming out this weekend if someone needs them. I am sure if you are going to regear you want to go a little higher. But if you are looking for a cheap alternative to regear I figured I would throw it out there.

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post #22 of 24 Old 02-19-2013, 06:28 AM
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if you jump to a 35 your going to need to extend your bump stops or trim your fenders. i put 12k on my jeep running 33s on a 2.5 in lift and it was great. got a great deal on tires so i upgraded.

mine with 33s and a 2.5 in lift

and it went places. granted i did hit my belly alot more than i wanted to but thats what skids are for right? now with this setup i could stuff all the tires with factory bump stops and i didnt rub on anything.

when i went to 35s slightly more backspacing i was obviously going to rub alot


so i chopped the fenders. the rears im going to put 1in bump stop extension on but the front is fine




as far as gearing goes i do quite a bit of the spotting in my club and from my experiance 35s and 3.73 is a fine ratio. especially with the manual. first gear 4 lo with the rubicon t case is almost useless more often than not im in 2nd or 3rd.

use this if you want some numbers to look over http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
in the drop downs you want to use
transmisson = nsg370 close ratio
t case = np241

if you crunch those numbers rubicon tcase and 4.10 gears in 2nd gear is near identical to the sport tcase and 3.73 gears in first gear so 35s wouldnt be much of a hit

as far as crawl speeds go if your happy with the speeds the 33s crawl at then when you go to a 35 its only slightly faster at the same RPMs

and from my experiance spotting people with 3.73s and 35s they generally have plenty of torque to do 90% of what they run into and when they dont rpms can usually make up for it.

now ive also seen 3.21s run 35s and the amount of throttle they have to give it to overcome the lack of torque is just dangerous. i cant tell you how many times ive seen someone with poor gearing need to gas the hell out of something to get over some stuff and in the process shoot themselfs into a worse situation.
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post #23 of 24 Old 02-19-2013, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asmmns View Post
Hey man . I will have my stock 4.10's coming out this weekend if someone needs them. I am sure if you are going to regear you want to go a little higher. But if you are looking for a cheap alternative to regear I figured I would throw it out there.
How many miles on your gears?

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post #24 of 24 Old 02-19-2013, 11:16 AM
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30k, and it was never even offroad for the first 20k (only because I wasnt the owner)

It is not hammered on off road either and have never had any axle part break. Had teh rear cover off a few months ago and the gears look like new, had the front cover off to install an aussie locker last month, and again the gears look like new.

It has never been ofroad with the auusie and is getting 5:13's on Saturday

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