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post #1 of 16 Old 10-18-2011, 01:06 AM Thread Starter
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differential overheating ?

Hey just intalled yukon4.88 gears and i have no noise perfect gear mesh,backlash and pinion turning torque is 16 inch lbs and im running 75/140 syn. Oil. Im still under 500 miles doing the 20 mile then stop and let cool but the rear diff seems to be getting to hot and i let it cool to cold then went aprox6 miles and the area where the pinion bearing is seems to be where the heat is coming from. What is an acceptable temperature for the diff and/or will this go away after the breakin period? Thanks

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post #2 of 16 Old 10-18-2011, 04:51 AM
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I had this same problem after my gear install. I added 2 quarts of fluid and still wasn't coming out of the fill hole. It did cool my diff down considerably.

I have a jeep and it goes over shit.
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post #3 of 16 Old 10-18-2011, 04:59 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by levellinebrad View Post
I had this same problem after my gear install. I added 2 quarts of fluid and still wasn't coming out of the fill hole. It did cool my diff down considerably.
I have aprox 2.5 quarts of 75/140 syn. Oil in it . Or are you saying after the breakin it cooled down?

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post #4 of 16 Old 10-18-2011, 05:19 AM
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Is your pinion rotated up? You need to add one pint ( I think ) when you do the fluid lays at the at the cover and may not be lubeing the pinion bearing. I'm running a Polly 5.5 in lift and m filled past the fill hole. Added fluid in the breather hole


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post #5 of 16 Old 10-18-2011, 05:21 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by unsub View Post
Is your pinion rotated up? You need to add one pint ( I think ) when you do the fluid lays at the at the cover and may not be lubeing the pinion bearing. I'm running a Polly 5.5 in lift and m filled past the fill hole. Added fluid in the breather hole
Ill try that. Thanks

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post #6 of 16 Old 10-18-2011, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfpd1724 View Post
Ill try that. Thanks
Sounds like the prob, there's a thread on it. Not positive how much extra to add.


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post #7 of 16 Old 10-18-2011, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
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Well put more fluid in and she is still geting hot so i duno i guess i will pull it apart and see what i can find.

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post #8 of 16 Old 10-18-2011, 10:17 AM
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Its going to get very warm. That's normal. But if you can't touch it because it so hot then you have a problem.

I have a jeep and it goes over shit.
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post #9 of 16 Old 10-18-2011, 10:31 AM
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The purpose of the run/let it cool routine is because of the excessive heat generated during break-in.
If the setup is as good as you say, continue your break-in routine, then change the oil and see what happens.

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post #10 of 16 Old 10-18-2011, 10:31 AM
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Probably 100s of threads on this at Pirate, but short version: run dino in the diffs instead of synthetic. Had the same issue and Currie told me to drain that Synthetic out ASAP and replace with Dino; amazingly, that solved the problem. Many aftermarket axle companies void the warranty with synthetic. Has something to do with drawing heat away from the gears, especially in high-pinion designs. Oh, and Currie isn't the only manufacture that recommends dino over synthetic in axles.

Quote I found:

Currie had multiple failures with synthetics. What they finally found, after building a special housing where they could measure the temp at the gears themselves in operation, was that while the synthetic lube was running cooler, the gears themselves were running substantially hotter. It was discovered that the synthetic was not as good of a "heat sink" as mineral based lubes were and was thus not extracting heat out of the gears as well. That is why the pumpkins running synthetic do indeed show cooler temps because the synthetic isn't extracting as much heat out of the gears so naturally it would be cooler... they were totally shocked and surprised when they observed that the synthetic was simply not extracting the heat out of the gears as efficiently as mineral based gear lubes could do.

So it's true the pumpkin and synthetic gear lube itself does measure cooler... the shocking discovery made by Currie's engineers was that the gears themselves are not being cooled as well by synthetic gear lubes.
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post #11 of 16 Old 10-18-2011, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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Called the manufacturer they said to run it but i am gonna dump the syn fluid thoe asap thanks all for the input

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post #12 of 16 Old 10-18-2011, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desert dog View Post
Probably 100s of threads on this at Pirate, but short version: run dino in the diffs instead of synthetic. Had the same issue and Currie told me to drain that Synthetic out ASAP and replace with Dino; amazingly, that solved the problem. Many aftermarket axle companies void the warranty with synthetic. Has something to do with drawing heat away from the gears, especially in high-pinion designs. Oh, and Currie isn't the only manufacture that recommends dino over synthetic in axles.

Quote I found:

Currie had multiple failures with synthetics. What they finally found, after building a special housing where they could measure the temp at the gears themselves in operation, was that while the synthetic lube was running cooler, the gears themselves were running substantially hotter. It was discovered that the synthetic was not as good of a "heat sink" as mineral based lubes were and was thus not extracting heat out of the gears as well. That is why the pumpkins running synthetic do indeed show cooler temps because the synthetic isn't extracting as much heat out of the gears so naturally it would be cooler... they were totally shocked and surprised when they observed that the synthetic was simply not extracting the heat out of the gears as efficiently as mineral based gear lubes could do.

So it's true the pumpkin and synthetic gear lube itself does measure cooler... the shocking discovery made by Currie's engineers was that the gears themselves are not being cooled as well by synthetic gear lubes.
^ some good info that I didn't know. Thanks.

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post #13 of 16 Old 10-18-2011, 02:33 PM
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Regardless of all the engineering mumbo-jumbo, I was an idiot for wasting my $ on synthetic dif fluid anyway. Dino is less than half the price, and I can't take advantage of the longevity of synthetic anyway; I have to change my dif oil every year due to all the water crossings I do on Rubicon, Fordyce, Kern River, etc. So it was a complete waste of money for me anyway.
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post #14 of 16 Old 10-18-2011, 03:27 PM
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Great info. I did my gears Yesterday and when i got home after the first 30 miles my dif was too hot to touch.
Drove it back too the shop today and you could keep your hand on it comfortably. hot but not enough to have to move your hand.
I went with the royal purple but i guess i too am gonna switch out to dino at 500 miles.

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post #15 of 16 Old 10-18-2011, 06:12 PM
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Put in dino. Fuck synthetic. Doesn't pay.

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post #16 of 16 Old 10-20-2011, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Update- after aprox 400+ miles now the diff has cooled down a lot and everything is A+ thanks for the input from everyone

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