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post #1 of 17 Old 10-07-2011, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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Rock Krawler Lift Options

Hey guys just wanted to ask for some opinions. Im going to be purchasing a rock krawler lift soon. I wanted to go with the 3.5 lift kit. Whats the real differences and or advantages between the 3.5 mid arm and the X factor mid arm and x factor plus. Which would you recommend going with if you had to choose? I do some moderate wheeling but its also my DD. Going to go with the bilstein shocks for now and also 35's. Im doing 35's for now so that I can get everything else beefed up and ready for 37's down the road. Just wanted some opinions about the 3 different lifts. Thanks guys!
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post #2 of 17 Old 10-07-2011, 08:27 AM
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With what you describe I think more the 2.5 stock mod or 2.5 max travel (if you want a killer performing kit) would be right up your alley. Out of your choices between the 3.5 kits I would say just the mid arm. That is plenty for the moderate wheeler. The other 2 start getting more complex and pricey for just moderate wheeling, the x factor plus isn't bolt in I don't think. You'd have to weld in components and is a 3 link rear, etc. Don't worry about "cheaper" RK kits as none of them will sacrifice ride quality.

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post #3 of 17 Old 10-07-2011, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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I think I may just go with the 3.5 mid arm. 3.5 is basically where I want it to sit so I figured I would get that and go from there. I know I will have 35's for a little while but what about the re-gearing? I've been told 4.88's for 35's and 5.13's for 37's. If I plan on 37's down the road, which one should I go with? I drive a lot of highway sometimes and didnt want the high rpm's all the time. Id rather go with 4.88's but any comments on that? Also plan on full skids, front rear bumpers, winch, tube flares so I would have more weight too.
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post #4 of 17 Old 10-07-2011, 02:07 PM
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I noticed you have a two door. Here's some good ole advice from first hand experience.

If you go with the 3.5" kit on your two door you will absolutely want to go with the X-Factor. You will need the upper control arms front and rear to get your pinion angle (drive shaft angle) corrected and your steering lined out up front.

I run the 2.5" Max Travel on my two door with 37s. I have added the rear upper control arms to mine to push the axle back a bit and gain more clearance around the tire in the back wheel well.

The 2.5" Max Travel and 35s looks perfect on the two door with full or cut flares. 3.5 and 35s is going to leave you quite a bit of room in the fender wells and cause you to spend more money than necessary to run 35s. I am referring to the need for driveshafts, upper control arms, ect.

Here are some pictures of my JK with the setup I mentioned:

This is the most recent with a flare posing on the front:



This is without any flares. The orange Jeep has the 2.5" Stock Mod with 35/12.50R17 BFG KM2s:



Here's another view:



Here it is all flexed out on a forklift. LOL



My buddy Will has the 2.5" Max Travel on his 2 door as well and runs it with 35" Toyos. (nc_fjizzle)

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/member.php?u=11391

In regard to gears, if you've got a six speed 4.88s will do you good for 35s. If you're wanting 37s eventually just go to 5.13s if you do it now. You'll be surprised by how much power you actually have with a 6 speed and larger tires though. It's NOTHING like the automatic which goes into Stevie Wonder mode and constantly searches for the right gear.

If you have any detailed questions post them up or shoot me a PM/email. I'm happy to help and only want to make sure you don't blow a bunch of money that you don't need to.

Marcus


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post #5 of 17 Old 10-07-2011, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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thats exactly what I was looking for! I appreciate your response! Im thinking maybe the 2.5 max travel system may be what I go with. Id rather go with something thats safe on the rest of the system so that In the mean time I can upgrade everything else for a bigger lift and tires down the road. I do have the 6 spd manual. May just re-gear to the 4.88's. I do some long road trips to back home every now and then from sc to pa so I deff dont want to be doing those with low gears. I appreciate the help for sure!
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post #6 of 17 Old 10-08-2011, 01:07 AM
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Marcus is spot on suggesting the 2.5" max travel. I'm running it with 35's right now and it sits/rides perfectly. As you can tell from his pics, you have more than enough room for 37's when the time comes. I know at some point I'll be mounting some on mine.
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post #7 of 17 Old 10-08-2011, 08:57 AM
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As others have suggested, take a look at the 2.5 Max Travel Kit if you're looking to run 35s.

Here's a few pics of my 2.5 Max Travel Kit with 35/12.50-17 Trail Grapplers. This thing rides better now than it did stock.

And don't forget to give Marcus a call at River City Offroad to get a damn good price.








2010 JK - Rock Krawler 2.5 Max Travel Kit - Fox 2.0 IFP Shocks - 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers - Genright Aluminum Tire Carrier - Poison Spyder Front and Rear BFH Bumpers - Warn M8000 - VKS Fab Sliders - Offroad Evolution Full Skids - Teraflex Sleeves - ARTEC Truss - EVO C Gussets - Synergy Bumpstops - JKS Control Arm Skids - Rigid 10" E-Series Light Bar and SRM Backup Lights - ARB Compressor w/ 5 Gallon Viair Tank - Offroad Evolution Half Doors
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post #8 of 17 Old 10-08-2011, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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I really appreciate the pics! That helps the most I think. I think the 2.5 max travel is going to be what Ill go with. That will give me a good starting point. Im going to be taking the jeep to Scott at Trails End Of Road in charleston sc to do the install. Ill just be getting back from deployment and I dont have a place to do any work yet. Kinda sucks I like doing this stuff myself. Cant wait to start it though. Just waiting on time to pass. Two more weeks hopefully and Ill be back in the states.
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post #9 of 17 Old 10-14-2011, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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just wondering if someone was to go with a 3.5, drive shafts are the biggest thing I've heard that needs to be upgraded. What do I need to know about buying them as in who sells them and how much do they run? Do you go with a longer one and if so how much longer? Is there anything else other than driveshafts that would be effected by the 3.5 lift? I see alot of people posting info about their lifts 3.5 + but nothing about drive shafts. Just curious...
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post #10 of 17 Old 10-14-2011, 02:38 PM
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I have 3.5 factor mid arm with rrd shocks factory 4.10s and stock rubi wheels with 35s/spacers. I have original driveshafts 50,000mile on it. when I installed. I have 70,000 on the jeep now. I wheel once twice a month no issues, go for it you won't regret it
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post #11 of 17 Old 10-14-2011, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jennings94 View Post
just wondering if someone was to go with a 3.5, drive shafts are the biggest thing I've heard that needs to be upgraded. What do I need to know about buying them as in who sells them and how much do they run? Do you go with a longer one and if so how much longer? Is there anything else other than driveshafts that would be effected by the 3.5 lift? I see alot of people posting info about their lifts 3.5 + but nothing about drive shafts. Just curious...
Give Marcus a call at RCO. He can answer all your questions. But 2 doors will need drive shafts at some point. Search around and there are threads on that discussion.

River City Offroad
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post #12 of 17 Old 10-14-2011, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jennings94 View Post
just wondering if someone was to go with a 3.5, drive shafts are the biggest thing I've heard that needs to be upgraded. What do I need to know about buying them as in who sells them and how much do they run? Do you go with a longer one and if so how much longer? Is there anything else other than driveshafts that would be effected by the 3.5 lift? I see alot of people posting info about their lifts 3.5 + but nothing about drive shafts. Just curious...
Lots of folks run their stock shafts with their 3.5" lifts. On a two door you just need to address the upper and lower control arms at that height so you can dial the drive line angles in and extend your drive shaft length.

If you decide to put shafts in I always recommend Tatton Drivelines. I sell them at $395 an end and all I need to know is a few details about your Jeep. Then your new drive shafts show up and you bolt them in.

Call me up if you want to talk about anything. I'm about to head out for the weekend but I'm at 832-526-2415 during the week.

Marcus


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post #13 of 17 Old 10-14-2011, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiverCityOffroad View Post
Lots of folks run their stock shafts with their 3.5" lifts. On a two door you just need to address the upper and lower control arms at that height so you can dial the drive line angles in and extend your drive shaft length.

If you decide to put shafts in I always recommend Tatton Drivelines. I sell them at $395 an end and all I need to know is a few details about your Jeep. Then your new drive shafts show up and you bolt them in.

Call me up if you want to talk about anything. I'm about to head out for the weekend but I'm at 832-526-2415 during the week.

Marcus
I appreciate the response. I most likely will be giving you a call after I get back to the states. Ill be back from my deployment in about a week and a half if all goes well and Im going to start the build then. I did a quick google search and found Coast Driveline's http://coastdriveline.com/NEW_JK.htm. Just wanted to see what drive shafts others got. 3.5 inch lift is really what I was trying to go for and I dont have a problem with getting new drive shafts if thats what I also need. I want to do everything right the first time. I've learned from the past thats the best way to do it! Thanks again Marcus for the help! Talk to you in a couple weeks.
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post #14 of 17 Old 10-14-2011, 07:24 PM
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I have 2.5" max travel and 37's. Currently running 4.88's but I bought 5.38's.(waiting for chance to install)
4.88's might be enough for 32's. Not for anything bigger.
Google planman. He's probably posted the most and best lift info.
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post #15 of 17 Old 10-14-2011, 07:43 PM
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I've got a 4 door so, I may not be the best indicator. That being said- The 3.5" X factor mid arm seemed the way to go for me. I like the little bit more lift for clearance for eventual 37's, I also like the fact that it moves the rear axle back 1" to allow for more pinch seam clearance. I run 4.10's right now with 35's and an auto. Works okay but, kinda objects to hills on the highway and drops in and out of overdrive a bit but, still liveable. With a 2 door, if you have a stickshift, I would say 4.10's and a 35's would be fine (this is assuming you already have 4.10's, if not, I'd go ahead and go lower right off the bat, seems to me like 35's and 3.73's would be a slug)
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post #16 of 17 Old 10-15-2011, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coilrod View Post
I have 2.5" max travel and 37's. Currently running 4.88's but I bought 5.38's.(waiting for chance to install)
4.88's might be enough for 32's. Not for anything bigger.
Google planman. He's probably posted the most and best lift info.
This is where I guess personal opinion's come in I think. From what I've seen alot of people have different gearing. I think everyone has their own ideal gearing. It really is on your personal preference. Theres all kinds of factors that play into it such as tires size, extra equipment( bumpers, skids, etc.), auto vs. stick, your location, I am stationed in charleston sc and its mostly flat. Driving around there and on the highways there my jeep runs higher rpms then what I would like, but when I go home to PA its all mtns and completely opposite. For me Im just trying to find the happy medium. Im going to wait for a little to do the gears just to see how it goes. I think I have a good understanding of what else I need. Marcus seems like an awesome guy already and I've only heard from him on this thread. I cannot wait to get back to the states. This last week and a half is killing me!!
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post #17 of 17 Old 10-15-2011, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VADERJKU View Post
I've got a 4 door so, I may not be the best indicator. That being said- The 3.5" X factor mid arm seemed the way to go for me. I like the little bit more lift for clearance for eventual 37's, I also like the fact that it moves the rear axle back 1" to allow for more pinch seam clearance. I run 4.10's right now with 35's and an auto. Works okay but, kinda objects to hills on the highway and drops in and out of overdrive a bit but, still liveable. With a 2 door, if you have a stickshift, I would say 4.10's and a 35's would be fine (this is assuming you already have 4.10's, if not, I'd go ahead and go lower right off the bat, seems to me like 35's and 3.73's would be a slug)
Yes I do have the 4.10's and the standard trans. I have the stock 32" bfg mud terrains and to me its geared too low on the highway and stuff for me right now. Im thinking 35's might bring it to where I want it. The only time its nice having it that low is when I go home from sc to pa in the mtns. 3.5 is what I really want too. Every time I see a jeep with that its exactly what I want haha. I plan on doing drive shafts and gussets and a few mods to make sure things don't break or wear out fast.
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