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post #1 of 17 Old 05-22-2011, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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Rear axle seal

How hard is it to change the rear axle seals? I took my tires off the jeep yesterday to get them rebalanced and noticed the left rear axle seal was leaking. It didn't look to bad, I only had a few spots around the inside edge of the wheel, but its not like it was slinging it everywhere yet. I checked the oil level and I did have it slightly overfilled and thats the side that faces down hill when I park at work everyday, so me overfilling it probably didn't help any. And ofcourse I'm just out of the 36,000mile bumper to bumper warranty. Anyways, I'm assuming you unbolt the bearing/axle retainer after removing the brake compnonents and then you have to press the bearing off the shaft to change the seal on the axle, right? I've seen the axle shaft out of a chrysler rear end in a cherokee and thats how it had to be done on them.

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post #2 of 17 Old 05-22-2011, 08:04 AM
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You pretty much said exactly what has to be done. You do have to cut the ring retainer and bearing off the shaft. Purchase new seal, bearing and retainer ring. Some people also get a new axle retainer while you have it all apart. Press everything back together and install axle. Not hard just time consuming. When cutting ring and bearing be carful not to cut the axle shaft.
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post #3 of 17 Old 05-22-2011, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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Is the bearing retainer on the back side (inner side of the axle) of the bearing, or do you mean the retainer that bolts to the axle tube on the other side of the bearing and seal?

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post #4 of 17 Old 05-22-2011, 08:22 AM
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Starting from the diff housing out..... ring retainer (has to be pressed on) - bearing (has to be pressed on) - seal - axle retainer.
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post #5 of 17 Old 05-22-2011, 08:31 AM
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Here is a pic of my spare trail axle for ref.
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Last edited by YingYang; 05-22-2011 at 08:33 AM.
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post #6 of 17 Old 05-22-2011, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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ok, thats what I thought you meant, thanks for the pic. can I heat the bearing retainer up with a torch and press it off and reuse it? I'm trying to get it fixed today and I don't know if the local parts stores will have it.

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post #7 of 17 Old 05-22-2011, 12:40 PM
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I guess you could try it. The $$$ are in the bearing and seal. I dont know if there is enough room to get anything under the bearing to press.
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post #8 of 17 Old 05-22-2011, 12:49 PM
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Good info YingYang
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post #9 of 17 Old 05-22-2011, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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well, I got it apart, got the new bearing, seal, and bearing retainer on the axle and back in the axle housing, but I'm having a hell of a time getting the parking brake shoes back together. I couldn't get the axle retainer past the shoe springs when I took it out, so i took the shoes apart. Also, I have the bearing pressed all the way against the shoulder of the axle and the bearing retainer pressed all the way against the bearing, but with the axle in, I still have a slight bit of in and out play and I don't remember it having that before I pulled it apart. I even tightened up the axle retainer nuts and hit on the axle with a hammer to make sure the outer bearing race was seated all the way in the tube and it seems to be. The new bearing I got was acutually a one piece bearing with the outer race part of the bearing.

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post #10 of 17 Old 05-22-2011, 05:38 PM
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I usually just pull the emer brake shoes off as a unit and rotate around the axle housing.

Yea there is a little play, maybe like +/- 1/8". My last set had the race attached also, I had to remove the old race out of the axle (actually had to cut it out).

Glad you got it all back together.

Last edited by YingYang; 05-22-2011 at 05:41 PM.
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post #11 of 17 Old 05-23-2011, 04:53 AM Thread Starter
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well, thats a load off my mind then. I was worried the outer race wasn't sitting in the axle tube tight enough and thats what was allowing the in and out play. My old bearing race actually fell out with the axle shaft as I pulled it out. Didn't see any signs that it was spinning in the housing though. I actually didn't have it all back together at the time of that last post, was waiting for the heavy rain to stop I wish I would have thought to unbolt the backing plate and rotate it, I don't think those shoes were meant to be installed with the axle in, but somehow I got them on. Changing the bearing and retainer was actually the easy part compared to that thanks for all the help though.

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post #12 of 17 Old 05-23-2011, 10:42 PM
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No problem, glad I could help. Even tho I didnt do anything.

On the reason I had to cut my race out. I had a seal go bad and it gouged the axle tube just enough to not let the race slide out. A drill and a round flapper style sandpaper disk made it all nice and smooth again.
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post #13 of 17 Old 09-03-2011, 09:05 AM
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Has anyone been successful pressing the old bearing off & re-using it? Or the collars? (Using a bearing press of course). Don't mind so much cutting off the collars, but seems wrong (and expensive) to cut off good bearings.

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post #14 of 17 Old 09-03-2011, 09:28 AM
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Hell of a process for just a seal!

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post #15 of 17 Old 11-04-2012, 01:42 PM
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Got a dealer quote to replace the driver side rear axle seal for $200 bucks or so, is that worth it?

Seal is $28 from the dealer or $11 from autozone. I figure with parts and stuff it'd be around $250 or so.

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post #16 of 17 Old 11-04-2012, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamaha90 View Post
Got a dealer quote to replace the driver side rear axle seal for $200 bucks or so, is that worth it?

Seal is $28 from the dealer or $11 from autozone. I figure with parts and stuff it'd be around $250 or so.

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Worth $200? No, not really IMO. A) the stock shaft flanges will bend before too long if you wheel it and I bought a set of Ten Factory Rubicon Chromoly axles, shipped with seals/tone rings and bearings for $325. That's a pretty good price, but the point is the money isn't quite worth investing into the stockers IMO.

however if you pull your own shafts take it to a competent parts house, or mechanic shop, they should be able to pop those on for a minimal rate.

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post #17 of 17 Old 11-04-2012, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamaha90 View Post
Got a dealer quote to replace the driver side rear axle seal for $200 bucks or so, is that worth it?

Seal is $28 from the dealer or $11 from autozone. I figure with parts and stuff it'd be around $250 or so.

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my buddy just bought all the parts for around $100. had a shop press on.off for $60. so with parts and him removing/installing axles he had $160 in it. bearings/seals the works.

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