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post #1 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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chevy drag link ?

The drag link ends ES2026R and ES2027L were used on GM , and 1 ton K series vehicles and use a larger taper. Both of these ends have 60 degrees of motion.

GM Dana 60 1 ton front axles use the same taper through the steering arm as ES2233L and ES2234R but have a 1" X 18tpi thread; part number ES2064L and ES2011R.

Tapered GM TRE insert for 3/4 and 1 ton Tie Rods Ends. This tapered insert allows you to convert under the knuckle steering on most 3/4 and 1 ton axles to over the knuckle. Simply drill out the existing hole to 1.0", place the insert and weld it in. For use with es2233L and es2234R TREs. Made from cold roll steel.

Moog ES2027L - Pitman arm end
Moog ES2234R - knuckle
Tapered GM TRE insert - es2234R
7/8" -18 tpi Jam Nut (Chevy TRE)
7/8" 18tpi L Hex Tube Adapter
7/8" 18tpi R Hex Tube Adapter

question I need answered, what about the reaming of the pitman to accept es2027l? any ideas?

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Last edited by andrelopez99; 05-14-2011 at 08:54 AM.
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post #2 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 08:41 AM
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I reamed my pitman arem out when i build my drag link. I just needed a lareger whole for a bolt because im running Heims. I dont see why you couldnt ream the Pitman arm out a bit
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post #3 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Dirty View Post
I reamed my pitman arem out when i build my drag link. I just needed a lareger whole for a bolt because im running Heims. I dont see why you couldnt ream the Pitman arm out a bit
Was think of that too, was searching on pirate on pro and cons between the two, a lot of good info.

Just can't figure out the reamer size needed.

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post #4 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 08:49 AM
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cant help you there boss man, I used a F911 bolt so i didnt need a tappered hole.
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post #5 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
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cant help you there boss man, I used a F911 bolt so i didnt need a tappered hole.
F911 those are the new poly bolts...Cool

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post #6 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by andrelopez99 View Post
F911 those are the new poly bolts...Cool
They have been around for years great fasteners

http://www.f911.com/fore2.html
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post #7 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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oh didnt know that, that's new to me..

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post #8 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 09:53 AM
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You'd be better off reaming it than drilling a 1" hole and welding in a tapered insert.
But if you're flipping it to the top, you may not have a choice.
That's a huge hole, which would leave very little material around it. Personally, I wouldn't trust it.
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post #9 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Co4Lo View Post
You'd be better off reaming it than drilling a 1" hole and welding in a tapered insert.
But if you're flipping it to the top, you may not have a choice.
That's a huge hole, which would leave very little material around it. Personally, I wouldn't trust it.
Thanks, would you know which reamer to use...

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post #10 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 10:11 AM
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I wish they would make this for the JK



http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo....ductid=STK2502
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post #11 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrelopez99 View Post
Thanks, would you know which reamer to use...
I can research, but if you're going to flip it to the top, won't the bottom of the existing hole be too big?
On my D44, I had drilled the knuckle out to 3/4 I think, and used an insert.
I used a Teraflex rod end.
Pretty sure you can accomplish this without drilling a 1" hole in the knuckle.
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post #12 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Dirty View Post
I wish they would make this for the JK



http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo....ductid=STK2502
Could that be done with cutting the steering box end ( pitman arm), bending plate, pre heat cast and TIG? That would be cool..

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post #13 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Co4Lo View Post
I can research, but if you're going to flip it to the top, won't the bottom of the existing hole be too big?
On my D44, I had drilled the knuckle out to 3/4 I think, and used an insert.
I used a Teraflex rod end.
Pretty sure you can accomplish this without drilling a 1" hole in the knuckle.
Well the steering arm on currie 60, not the knuckle it self, sorry if I didn't specify.

On the ballistic site it says the 1.5 reamer..

Poly site it list by degree..

Confusing..

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post #14 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 10:18 AM
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Oh shit dude, I'm sorry... I was thinking you were talking about the knuckle, not the pitman arm. Duh...
OK, let's start over...
Teraflex has a awesome greasable rod end with the large taper. That end will work with your stock JK pitman arm. The taper is the same, but a little longer. So it sits a little lower on the pitman, which is kind of good, and it seats in far enough to get the nut and cotter pin in just fine.
I've used this on both my D44 and my current 60 setup.
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post #15 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 10:23 AM
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This guy...
No reaming or drilling required.
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post #16 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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http://www.teraflex.biz/heavy-duty-t...rge-taper.html

http://www.teraflex.biz/heavy-duty-t...rge-taper.html

These you referring to?

Doesn't the pitman arm usually have the degree pitch to compensate the axle end limited flex?

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post #17 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrelopez99 View Post
http://www.teraflex.biz/heavy-duty-t...rge-taper.html

http://www.teraflex.biz/heavy-duty-t...rge-taper.html

These you referring to?

Doesn't the pitman arm usually have the degree pitch to compensate the axle end limited flex?
Yep. those are the ones I use. They are awesome quality. They have plenty of misalignment, so you don't need to worry about angles at all.
Are you gonna flip the knuckle side over to the top also? On my 44 I used these Tera's on both ends when I flipped it. But IIRC, I used the smaller taper one with an insert at the knuckle so I wouldn't have to drill such a big hole in the knuckle.
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post #18 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Co4Lo View Post
Yep. those are the ones I use. They are awesome quality. They have plenty of misalignment, so you don't need to worry about angles at all.
Are you gonna flip the knuckle side over to the top also? On my 44 I used these Tera's on both ends when I flipped it. But IIRC, I used the smaller taper one with an insert at the knuckle so I wouldn't have to drill such a big hole in the knuckle.
i may not need to, i want the drag link similar to your in the pic and straight/ parallel (with out the bend) to the track bar as much as possible..

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post #19 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by andrelopez99 View Post
i may not need to, i want the drag link similar to your in the pic and straight/ parallel (with out the bend) to the track bar as much as possible..
I would flip it then to get it nice and flat.
My trackbar angle is a little off right now because I had to slap that bracket together in a hurry to get the Jeep to EJS.
But I plan on re-working the TB bracket to match the drag link angle perfectly. It's already exact at the pitman arm, but need to raise it at the axle about 1.5".
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post #20 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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with the steering arm on the knuckle, currie press breaks it in two spots to move the hole in so the OE drag link wont need modification and have it in sync with the track bar, if I flip it it would be above the top hole on the poly bracket.

I also ordered the flat style steering arm to see if that helps as well and also try what we've been discussing here..

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post #21 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrelopez99 View Post
with the steering arm on the knuckle, currie press breaks it in two spots to move the hole in so the OE drag link wont need modification and have it in sync with the track bar, if I flip it it would be above the top hole on the poly bracket.

I also ordered the flat style steering arm to see if that helps as well and also try what we've been discussing here..
Gotcha, I forgot you were running a Currie. I was thinking 44 for some reason.
On my 60, the drag link attatches to the under-side of the high-steer arm also.
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post #22 of 22 Old 05-14-2011, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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Gotcha, I forgot you were running a Currie. I was thinking 44 for some reason.
On my 60, the drag link attatches to the under-side of the high-steer arm also.
no problem, I appreciate you time man.. to you Dr. Dirty as well.

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