Pulling a stuck vehicle by virtue of hitch mounted shackle??? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 05-13-2011, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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Pulling a stuck vehicle by virtue of hitch mounted shackle???

Probably a dumb question but, it's been bugging me!

I see a large number of people running D-rings in their hitches on JKs, I'm wondering if it's a good idea to pull a vehicle from that? Considering the fact that a Jeep is only rated to tow a load of 3500lbs versus a stuck JKs effective weight could easily be in excess of 7500lbs (figuring a vehicle stuck in mud (for example) requires at minimum 1.5 times its weight worth of force to free it). That's just assuming that you trail ride with JKs and lighter rigs!

I used to constantly run a hitch mounted tow shackle (D-ring, clevis, whatever you want to call it) in my Dmax (when I wasn't towing things anyway, LOL!) but, I figured its hitch was more than strong enough for recovery duty considering its 14,200lb ballhitch trailer rating. But, I am wondering if the hitch strength on the Jeep warrants me running the tow shackle in it? If its not usable anyway, it'd be totally poser, LOL!

Thanks!!!
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post #2 of 15 Old 05-13-2011, 10:38 PM
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Jeeps are limited 3500lbs not by the strength of it's hitch.

It can be a combination of other factors such as wheelbase, lack of certain stability features, inadequate brake system or even the transmission itself (god knows that auto has a hard enough time offroad alone, let alone pulling a trailer) Neither does the V6 lend itself to towing either.

And the JK would fit all of those problem areas to limit towing ability.

The 2-doors are rated even lower due to the instability of the short wheelbase.

I had a Tomkin rear recovery bumper on my YJ that was FAR less substantial then the JK bumpers I see running around, and I used the receiver hitch on that combined with a Warn insert shackle all the time to pull myself out backwards. The bumper had tie ins to the frame, of course, so it worked really well and I never had issues with it breaking, bending or cracking anything by tugging on it, and I imagine the beefier frames and bumpers on the JKs are far more suited to boot.

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post #3 of 15 Old 05-13-2011, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trw View Post
Jeeps are limited 3500lbs not by the strength of it's hitch.

It can be a combination of other factors such as wheelbase, lack of certain stability features, inadequate brake system or even the transmission itself (god knows that auto has a hard enough time offroad alone, let alone pulling a trailer) Neither does the V6 lend itself to towing either.

And the JK would fit all of those problem areas to limit towing ability.

The 2-doors are rated even lower due to the instability of the short wheelbase.

I had a Tomkin rear recovery bumper on my YJ that was FAR less substantial then the JK bumpers I see running around, and I used the receiver hitch on that combined with a Warn insert shackle all the time to pull myself out backwards. The bumper had tie ins to the frame, of course, so it worked really well and I never had issues with it breaking, bending or cracking anything by tugging on it, and I imagine the beefier frames and bumpers on the JKs are far more suited to boot.
Thanks for the input!
I agree that it is vehicle ability not (potential) hitch strength that makes for the low tow rating. But, I am asking specifically about the stock Jeep hitch assembly. (not an aftermarket hitch that may be incorporated into an aftermarket bumper with multiple frame tie-ins) The bumper that I have decided to go with utilizes the stock hitch. Near as I can tell (could be mistaken), the stock hitch attaches to the Jeep's frame on the rearmost crossmember with 4(?) bolts. I find it difficult to believe that the stock assembly can handle much weight. Though (if it can be used), I would like to use it, as it is a central mounted, easy to use recovery point!
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post #4 of 15 Old 05-13-2011, 11:08 PM
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I run a d ring on a factory hitch. I have thought about this often too.

it is mounted with 4 A grade bolts whose breaking strength is far greater than 1.5 times the weight of the jeep.

perhaps with extreme situation the hitch may warp or bend, but wont' shear I am pretty sure.

would Rugged Ridge D ring really be any stronger ?

if one is to inspect the mounting of most aftermarket bumpers there is not alot holding that on either.

I would trust the D ring for most things. A one tonne dually jerking on it hard maybe not, but another jeep winching or snatch strapping sure.

I have pulled way way hard on mine even at odd angles and not a sign of warping or distortion.

more likely the rigging will fail before the hitch D ring ever will. Just make sure you use a proper securing pin, there are alot of junky pins out there.
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post #5 of 15 Old 05-13-2011, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marmot mb View Post
I run a d ring on a factory hitch. I have thought about this often too.

it is mounted with 4 A grade bolts whose breaking strength is far greater than 1.5 times the weight of the jeep.

perhaps with extreme situation the hitch may warp or bend, but wont' shear I am pretty sure.

would Rugged Ridge D ring really be any stronger ?

if one is to inspect the mounting of most aftermarket bumpers there is not alot holding that on either.

I would trust the D ring for most things. A one tonne dually jerking on it hard maybe not, but another jeep winching or snatch strapping sure.

I have pulled way way hard on mine even at odd angles and not a sign of warping or distortion.

more likely the rigging will fail before the hitch D ring ever will. Just make sure you use a proper securing pin, there are alot of junky pins out there.
Cool deal! Thanks for the input bro! I will be putting my D-ring in my receiver then! This will be my 4th vehicle to run it and it has survived being hit (rearended) twice! IDK the brand but it is from 4wheelparts, got it back in 03, it's a nice solid steel piece!!! I may need to hit it up with some fresh paint first though, can't have it looking all grungy going on the new JKU!
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post #6 of 15 Old 05-14-2011, 03:23 AM
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I plan to do that exact thing (insert in receiver with shackle). It worked great on my TJ.


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post #7 of 15 Old 05-14-2011, 05:41 AM
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My 2dr pulled a ~7000pound (owner said thats what it weighed. Never looked) 4x4 jon Deere tractor stuck in the mud from the stock hitch. I'd say it will hold up just fine.

No tire spin on 35s, locked axles, the gearing of a manual rubicon and the weight of that stuck tractor is a hell of a load on it


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post #8 of 15 Old 05-14-2011, 06:10 AM
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That is a good question and IMO it will hold just fine as long as you have good bolts holding the receiver on. And when I am using my receiver it is only for a snatch strap to give the stuck rig some momentum vs actually pulling the entire weight of the rig... someone should put a push/pull gauge on it and see what it comes out to, I would bet it was less than you think (of course depending on how stuck the person was).

And I usually just run the pin that holds the ball hitch in place through the eyelet of the strap.

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post #9 of 15 Old 05-14-2011, 06:58 AM
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Somewhere on the web is a study done with a Land Rover and a recovery strap where loadings were measured as the Land Rover was accelerated to different speeds before the snatch strap came tight. Needless to say, as speed increased so did the strap loading. IIRC the laoding became ridiculously high by 20mph...

For "typical" snatch strapping, and certainly for pulling rather than snatching, the receiver hitch is going to be fine. But keep the pull angle limited.

BTW, attaching a strap to a receiver with a hitch pin is an easy quick way to do it and you don't need the heavy clevis slide in... BUT... it's none to difficult to bend the pin and then its a bitch to get out, ussually involving an acetlene torch.

Remember always, you can break anything if your careless, foolish or try hard enough.
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post #10 of 15 Old 05-14-2011, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPK View Post
BTW, attaching a strap to a receiver with a hitch pin is an easy quick way to do it and you don't need the heavy clevis slide in... BUT... it's none to difficult to bend the pin and then its a bitch to get out, ussually involving an acetlene torch.
I use a 5/8 grade 8 bolt to hold the 2" strap in the receiver.
The grade 8 bolt will never bend, just break.
So it cannot bend and get stuck into the receiver...
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post #11 of 15 Old 05-14-2011, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neoxxis View Post
I use a 5/8 grade 8 bolt to hold the 2" strap in the receiver.
The grade 8 bolt will never bend, just break.
So it cannot bend and get stuck into the receiver...
That is a good idea....
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post #12 of 15 Old 05-14-2011, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.RonGilbert View Post
That is a good idea....
Yes it is!

Think I will have to throw one in there.

Last edited by JPK; 05-14-2011 at 10:32 AM.
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post #13 of 15 Old 05-14-2011, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Cool! Thanks for the input y'all! I feel a LOT better about it now!
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post #14 of 15 Old 05-15-2011, 08:33 AM
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The receiver hitch mounts in the same manner as the stock recovery hooks so it seems like you'd be ok.
I have seen snatch straps break when just using the pin through the receiver hitch.
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post #15 of 15 Old 05-15-2011, 08:40 AM
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^^^^^^^^^ Valid point on the factory retrieval point on some models. I was wondering when someone was going to bring that up. Also, invest in a ARB strap...........the pin idea is excellant...

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