Help me spend some dough!!! Dana 60's here I come - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 Old 03-19-2011, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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Help me spend some dough!!! Dana 60's here I come

Ok here's the deal. I have a bent front Rubicon 44 housing. It is smiling at me. I also need a desperate gear ratio upgrade to a 5.13 or 5.38 in the Auto. I'm currently rolling 37's and do not forsee larger anytime soon. I was thinking about a new pro rock 44 rubicon housing but then with the regear, rcv axle shafts, new tie rod, reid knuckles i'm in it more than enough to simply pay a bit more and get the Currie Rock Jock front w/ ARB's. My only hesitation is that I just purchased new wheels and will need 5 new 5x5.5 rather than the stock 5x5. I'll more than likely also need new drive shafts as they are still stock. Anything else I am missing to run new Rock Jocks front and rear w/ ARB's aside from the cash and a kick to the nuts from the wife. I already have the SPOD and HO ARB Compressor for the lockers...

Am I missing something cost wise because it simply just makes sense to spend a bit more and do it right the first time!

Thanks

(I will also be missing the Hemi... but that is after the next deployment and another kick to the groin)
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post #2 of 19 Old 03-19-2011, 05:30 PM
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Looks good you doing the rear 60 as well? And yeah the new wheels and driveshafts will be on the list.

We have a set setting in the shop right now for a build we are starting next week. They are friggen saweet!

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post #3 of 19 Old 03-19-2011, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah rear is in the works as well. I figure even if I run a pro rock 44 up front and rock jock 60 rear my wheels will be different bolt configurations anyway. I'm sure there are adapters and such but I want to be done with it once and not worry much about this and that. I know it is extra weight but when I already drive slow enough to stay way from IED's (Idiotic Enemy Drivers) the extra sluggishness shouldn't hurt much and the new gearing should help out too. I don't run the jeep to hard as it is my daily driver but I'm taking the family and such on expeditions cross country and definitely don't want to be up shit creek without a paddle (and toilet paper).

Does anyone know of a reputable place to buy them with the powder coat already applied, gearing, arb lockers installed and ready to bolt in?

I'm going with the redneck ram assist as well and hope that it will be an easy install too.
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post #4 of 19 Old 03-19-2011, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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WS offroad where are you located in reference to Jacksonville FL? Maybe close enough for an install shop?
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post #5 of 19 Old 03-19-2011, 09:17 PM
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"Anything else I am missing to run new Rock Jocks front and rear w/ ARB's aside from the cash and a kick to the nuts from the wife.

Brown B..
Remember, DUCK,TUCK AND ROLL, 1 second after telling the wife.
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post #6 of 19 Old 03-19-2011, 10:27 PM
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Watch the Build Thread on this to come soon. The 60s sitting at WSOffRoad are mine and spec-ed out by none other then Mr. Larry McRae. This is my MOAB build with Rock Krawler long arm. You need to take the drive down from Jacks when we start this!
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post #7 of 19 Old 03-20-2011, 03:12 AM
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We are installing my front rock jock today and the rear on Tuesday
Will post up how it goes

95 Hemi YJ on Treps with a ton of cool custom work

*gone*09rubi unlimited Rock Krawler 5.5 long arm w/rrd Coilovers 37 Falken wildpeak's Currie 60's
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post #8 of 19 Old 03-20-2011, 05:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice Bugsy. I'll be following the build at WS offroad. Now the fun begins!
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post #9 of 19 Old 03-20-2011, 07:37 AM
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I'm not getting why you'd have to change to 5x5.5s with the Pro Rock 44? Given the list of stuff in your post wouldn't you still retain your stock unit bearing/ hub assy? Well, regardless, if you did have to change up front all you have to do is swap out the rear axle shafts for ones like Superior Evos with a multi-bolt pattern on the flanges. Have your rear disks drilled for 5x5.5" and you're done. (I did mine with a drill press.) Besides, new wheels are fun!
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post #10 of 19 Old 03-20-2011, 08:09 AM
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You can have your axles drille for either 5x5 or 5x5.5 or both.
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post #11 of 19 Old 03-20-2011, 08:09 AM
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Don't over look the Pro Rock Extreme 44! This bad boy is almost 3 times as strong as a stock Rubi axle. It's stout to say the least. I think I'm gonna be good with a D60 rear and the PR44x up front when I go to 38's. Heck, I might even hold off on the D60 rear and just run cmoly axle shafts in the rear and hope for the best.


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post #12 of 19 Old 03-20-2011, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HITMONEY View Post
You can have your axles drille for either 5x5 or 5x5.5 or both.
Yeah, I was pretty sure you can order the 60's with the 5on5 bolt pattern.
After all spending 6 grand on an axle they better let you pick the bolt pattern.
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post #13 of 19 Old 03-20-2011, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brownbeaux View Post
WS offroad where are you located in reference to Jacksonville FL? Maybe close enough for an install shop?
We're about 3 hrs Southwest of Jax just south of Orlando. We're an easy drive down either I10/I75 or I95/I4.

If you have any questions or need anything shoot us a PM or give us a call! We would be happy to help with your build.

Rock Krawler, Poison Spyder, Rigid Industries, Currie and more.

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post #14 of 19 Old 03-20-2011, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fnord5 View Post
Yeah, I was pretty sure you can order the 60's with the 5on5 bolt pattern.
After all spending 6 grand on an axle they better let you pick the bolt pattern.
Correct, that's what my friend is running RJ 60 rear and PR 44 front with stock bolt pattern.
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post #15 of 19 Old 03-20-2011, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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So i can run Rock Jock 60's front and rear with my current pattern? If so is there any disadvantage (i can't see any regarding the unlimited - I mean I'm not hauling a 15 foot camper or anything.)

I like the pro rock 44 and feel it is more than adequate for what I am doing however I have to replace the tie rod, steering box is leaking and want to add a new ram assist, new axle shafts, new knuckles and just figured for the price I can just put it toward a dana 60. I'm sure someone will want my front and rear rubi 44's with lockers as is. I think all they need is a new passenger side drive shaft anyway for the axles to be drop in. The cash however much recovered on the sale of those will make the foot to the nut sack a bit more tolerable.


Thanks for the tips.
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post #16 of 19 Old 03-20-2011, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HITMONEY View Post
You can have your axles drille for either 5x5 or 5x5.5 or both.
Hit, correct me if I am wrong, I wss thinking the rear only.

The front needs the 4.25" wheel opening for the hub and 5x5 would be tight....

unless you are going to run the JK outers rather than the F250/350/450 sealed bearing unit...


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post #17 of 19 Old 03-20-2011, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeperjkj View Post
Don't over look the Pro Rock Extreme 44! This bad boy is almost 3 times as strong as a stock Rubi axle. It's stout to say the least. I think I'm gonna be good with a D60 rear and the PR44x up front when I go to 38's. Heck, I might even hold off on the D60 rear and just run cmoly axle shafts in the rear and hope for the best.
This is what I did and I'm running 39.5 pit bull rockers so far so good!


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Last edited by HeatTreater; 03-20-2011 at 03:00 PM.
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post #18 of 19 Old 03-20-2011, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeatTreater View Post
This is what I did and I'm running 39.5 pit bull rockers so far so good!
That's great to know. I think my next stop is gonna be 38" MT/R Kevlars.


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post #19 of 19 Old 03-21-2011, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slippery View Post
Hit, correct me if I am wrong, I wss thinking the rear only.

The front needs the 4.25" wheel opening for the hub and 5x5 would be tight....

unless you are going to run the JK outers rather than the F250/350/450 sealed bearing unit...
Correct.

įlllllį


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