Gussets and a truss (prefab or homemade) look easy enough and inexpensive enough that it could do them myself in my garage with my Lincoln Pro-Mig140.
I like the look of the Poly gussets even though they are more expensive than the Teraflex but I'm thinking either would be just fine.
It might be willing to spend money on a prefabbed truss just because it would be easier, less time consuming, and look better. It even looks like with a little modification, a person could install both the Poly truss and the Rock Krawler truss if they wanted to for whatever reason.
Who makes this truss and do you have a part number? Or did you fabricate it yourself?
I think if you plan on regearing as well, it would be cheap insurance to sleeve it while you are in there.
Re-gearing was something I wasnít planning on doing unless it became absolutely necessary. Iím currently torn between the Rock Krawler JK 2.5 Max Travel PRO Mid Arm System and their JK 3.5 X Factor Mid Arm System. Iím currently only interested in running 35ís but have the possible option of 37ís is appealing. (It takes less lift than these systems offer to run 35ís on my Rubicon but both of these systems would give me more performance and options than my needs require.) Is it safe to assume I could live with stock gears on 35ís but re-gearing should be done for 37ís? (I could always re-gear later regardless of what I do for reinforcement. It would just be a matter of more time and labor.)
Sleeves or new housings look like they might require a higher degree of skill and much more work.
used the Poly sleeve kit and the Poly truss (home-fabbed truss on the rear).
I don't really think there is much need to extend it out. The main thing was to reinforce the area where the diff housing meets the axle tubes. The sleeves should prevent the tubes from twisting or bending, and the truss should prevent any cracks or bends at the housing.
I didn't do the welding. Not sure of any complications welding to the cast housing.
Detailed pics of the front and rear (page 6 you can see pix of the front truss):
Jeep Pictures http://s976.photobucket.com/albums/a...joe/jeep/Other
I see in your pictures you stripped down to the bare axle housing and reattached all of the mountings after the sleeve work. Is this required for both the Poly and R-SE outer sleeves to be installed? This becomes an area of issue for a person like me. While Iím and experienced welder, I think my Lincoln could perform the work but it would be pushing its limits. Inner sleeves might be a better option for me. Both the Teraflex and Benchmark sleeves are comparable in price and should work just fine. Also, I donít mind disassembling the axles and putting them back in, but I would be pushing my skill limits cutting off all of the mounts and getting them welded back on in the correct positions with proper alignment.
Something to keep in mind with the sleeves is that they can cause axle shaft rub if the latter is not centered, which most aren't. I had a bitch of a time with Superior Evolution shafts rubbing the sleeve. Superior kindly made me up a set that are dead on the money which fixed the problem. Stock shafts had been rubbing, too, which I discovered when I pulled them to install my Spyntec hubs. That had caused a vibe I thought was the common front driveline vibration. Also caused it to pull to the right. As a result of all that, if I had to do it all over I'd probably not sleeve the axle but do the Poly outer cladding and truss, plus gussets. FWIW, I used the Teraflex sleeve & gusset kit which is excellent.
Any more information you could provide with the rubbing issue would be greatly appreciated. In my mind, Iím not quite seeing how the axles would rub unless they were too long or installed slightly askew. Both instances seem like they could fairly easily be prevented with forethought and extra attention to detail during thee installation. Where on the axles did the rubbing occur?
I agree sleeves and gussets can be a good idea for many that go wheeling but there are other options that should be considered as well.
I've found that many users would have changed out their housings if we had the ProRock44 available when they started working on their front axle. Once a user starts making additions (even a gear swap) to their housing they feel married to it and are much less likely to want to throw away their aleady-spent cash and labor.
If you do the math and figure out what the needed additions cost, you'll find that a new housing is not a huge additional investment. Obviously, if you do all your own work the cost is greater but for the guy that pays to get this type of work done to his JK, the additional cost is very minimal.
Certainly, doing all the additions can be easier on the budget if you can't afford to do it all at once, but no amount of polish will make a stock housing much more than 'adequate'.
Not a bad point however, on the Dynatrac website, I cannot locate the ProRock44 housing to even see how much it costs. Is it just the axles tubes that would need to be welded on or is it a full housing set up?
At some point I have to draw a line in just how far I go. Too much money and I might as well be looking at something like a new D60 set up for not a whole lot more money.