I need some MAJOR help - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 39 Old 11-16-2010, 06:48 AM Thread Starter
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I need some MAJOR help

I have been getting some nasty death wobble lately (no this isn't a typical DW discussion so PLEASE read on). When I hit about 45 mph and slow down the front end shakes violently. It wasn't happening all of the time and usually wasn't that much of a problem. It was getting annoying though so I took it to get an alignment. HA! That was no bueno. Now it does it all of the time. Here is what I have done:

rotated the tires (i have dyna beads and thought maybe they weren't balancing the tires well enough)...that didn't work

put on my neighbors stock JK wheels and tires still thinking it was the dyna beads...no change

pulled the axle shafts...everything is fine.

pulled off the front diff cover...everything is fine.

tightened everything. the trackbar was a little loose on the frame side...no luck.

my drag link (the PP flip kit) seems to have a little play on the knuckle side but I really don't think that would do it.

last night when pulling the jeep into the garage i noticed a little twitch in the front axle. that is when i checked the axle, diff and track bar. It still twitches and still has DW.

Any help?

The driveshaft doesn't seem to be affected. 4wd lo and hi work fine (we had some snow the other night to test it out on).

One would probably think the alignment shop has something to do with it. I measured the toe angle last night and I was really toe'd out. I adjusted the tie rod and toe'd her back in but that didn't do anything.

Thanks all for any help you can provide.

I should change my screen name to 1shkyjeep

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post #2 of 39 Old 11-16-2010, 07:00 AM
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Did you check your rotors for being warped? Seems to be overlooked often

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post #3 of 39 Old 11-16-2010, 07:03 AM
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Mine is doing the same thing. I checked all the bolts and rod ends and shit. Then I finally had my grandson get in and turn the wheel while I watched everything. Noticed my track bar moving a little. After watching it a couple times, saw that the heim ball is actually getting slop and the center is moving back and forth a bit. Ordered me a new heim from Superlift. It's at the house waiting for me to get home from North Dakota to install. I let you know what it does.

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post #4 of 39 Old 11-16-2010, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
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I did check the rotors and they are fine. I have the outlaw offroad drilled and slotted rotors.

The track bar is tight as hell now...when I thought that was the problem I felt pretty f-in stupid.

I'm going to check the ball joints tonight. This is getting ugly.

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post #5 of 39 Old 11-16-2010, 07:18 AM
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How did you check the drilled and slotted rotors?

Honestly you are describing warped rotors since it is with slowing down, I won't bug ya after this on it, just rotors can play funny tricks with temperature (as I've seen extensively as a BMW tech). It's often over looked due to everything else "it could be".

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post #6 of 39 Old 11-16-2010, 07:20 AM
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Even though the track bar is tight, did you check and see if there was any ovaling of the frame side mounting hole?

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post #7 of 39 Old 11-16-2010, 07:25 AM
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And forgot to mention. Mine doesn't do it when slowing down. Just if I hit a bump just right, it starts the wobble. Not sure if it's the track bar yet. But it's a start. Hope this helps.

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post #8 of 39 Old 11-16-2010, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twisted View Post
And forgot to mention. Mine doesn't do it when slowing down. Just if I hit a bump just right, it starts the wobble. Not sure if it's the track bar yet. But it's a start. Hope this helps.
Mine too.

The track bar mounts are all kosher. When the jeep was getting aligned, I had the shop check with a dealy bobby to see if they were flush. They said they didn't have the tool to turn them but they were all flat and didn't need to be turned.

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post #9 of 39 Old 11-16-2010, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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How do you replace the JK ball joints? do you need a press?

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post #10 of 39 Old 11-16-2010, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey's Rubi View Post
How do you replace the JK ball joints? do you need a press?
Yes. The knuckles need to be removed and the joints pressed out with a ball joint press. Which is like a big c clamp with cups. Usually can be rented or free from parts stores.

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post #11 of 39 Old 11-17-2010, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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New ball joints didn't work. Any other tips?

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post #12 of 39 Old 11-17-2010, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey's Rubi View Post
MThey said they didn't have the tool to turn them but they were all flat and didn't need to be turned.
Because you cannot turn a drilled and/or slotted rotor. They probably didn't even mic or check the runout (which also probably can't be done on your rotors) on them because of that...If they knew they couldn't turn them, they probably didn't check it for the .003" (yes 3/1000 of one inch) variation from one side to the other to well. That is something that cannot be seen or felt either.

..just saying, if I still had the stock rotors, or could borrow/use some stock rotors, I'd try it at the stage you are at. Swap the pads and rotors (keep them side and inside/outside the same) from that neighbors stock JK and try it. Can't lose any $$ on it.

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Last edited by Goodysgotacuda; 11-17-2010 at 01:11 PM.
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post #13 of 39 Old 11-17-2010, 01:11 PM
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I'm prolly gonna get hammered for this but whatever~ I've seen it proven time and again so I stick to my opinion:

Did you check your steering stabilizer?? You said it starts when you hit a bump... A road driven, lifted rig with big tires & either a bad (or lack of) SS can allow an oscillation to start that exacerbates into a full on wobble.
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post #14 of 39 Old 11-17-2010, 01:19 PM
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Did you check your unit bearings? I know that both of my front ones were completely blown and it shook like Michael J Fox on a cold winter day with no coat.

Jack up front end and push on the wheels to see if there is any play. Mine had over an inch of play back and forth. Turns out the unit bearings were blown and actually missing ball bearings...

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post #15 of 39 Old 11-17-2010, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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Its a brand new stabilizer so that shouldn't be it...right? By new I mean 1 week old.

Regarding the brakes, would midas be able to tell?

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post #16 of 39 Old 11-17-2010, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey's Rubi View Post
Its a brand new stabilizer so that shouldn't be it...right? By new I mean 1 week old.

Regarding the brakes, would midas be able to tell?
I'd find someone you know or trust at this point. They are in the business of selling brakes and probably don't want to really mess around with your issues. I wouldn't be surprised if they said "it needs new rotors" when it really didn't, or they didn't look. Those in-n-out shops scare me!

May find out what the return policy is on autozone rotors, try them and return them if they don't fix it with something like "they caused a vibration" rather than they "didnt fix my vibration". Only saying that because I hate vatozone!

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post #17 of 39 Old 11-17-2010, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. T View Post
Did you check your unit bearings? I know that both of my front ones were completely blown and it shook like Michael J Fox on a cold winter day with no coat.

Jack up front end and push on the wheels to see if there is any play. Mine had over an inch of play back and forth. Turns out the unit bearings were blown and actually missing ball bearings...
Goddamn what an analogy T! If I might add, and I know it has been already mentioned..BUT regarding the track-bar is it torqued tight on both ends? Just speaking from experience; the one time I had to experience it(even at a similar circumstance) is when it wasn't tightened down perfectly after I did my lift install.
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post #18 of 39 Old 11-17-2010, 01:33 PM
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I had this on Double D's... Ended up being a heim joint on the track bar. You couldn't tell it was bad until you took it apart. Trailmaster sent a new hiem and all was good. It was amazing to see how much little play it took on the end of the trackbar to set up the DW harmonic. Mine was exactly at the same speed... if I hit a bump just right, and in the end even a man-hole cover would set it off.

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post #19 of 39 Old 11-17-2010, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey's Rubi View Post
Its a brand new stabilizer so that shouldn't be it...right? By new I mean 1 week old.
Then you should be fine. Just goin down the list in my head.
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post #20 of 39 Old 11-17-2010, 02:29 PM
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We may have to just put my stock rotors on his jeep and see if that helps, we did check the track bar the other night it was loose, cranked the piss out of it, new ball joints, checked the toe, control arms, Will check the hemi joint like hit said, thanks for all your help guys,


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post #21 of 39 Old 11-17-2010, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HITMONEY View Post
I had this on Double D's... Ended up being a heim joint on the track bar. You couldn't tell it was bad until you took it apart. Trailmaster sent a new hiem and all was good. It was amazing to see how much little play it took on the end of the trackbar to set up the DW harmonic. Mine was exactly at the same speed... if I hit a bump just right, and in the end even a man-hole cover would set it off.
Exactly! That's what I was talking about above^^^^^up there a ways. Just a little movement in the heim joint. The bolt is tight, but the heim is worn. Can't wait to get home to get mine installed and see if that's the fix!

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post #22 of 39 Old 11-17-2010, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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I think you're right about the track bar. Everty time I crank on it, the wobble gets better (less). I'm going to take it off and look at it.

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post #23 of 39 Old 11-17-2010, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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Track bar looks fine (stock). Going to still try another one just in case. I torqued down the new steering stabilizer. It was a touch loose on the axle side, the tie rod side was solid. The twitch has to be from the track bar though, right?

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post #24 of 39 Old 11-17-2010, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey's Rubi View Post
Track bar looks fine (stock). Going to still try another one just in case. I torqued down the new steering stabilizer. It was a touch loose on the axle side, the tie rod side was solid. The twitch has to be from the track bar though, right?
Most commonly the T-Bar is the culprit from all the combined experiences on the forum.

Forget that steering stabilizer non sense.. I have been driving RubiKong without a SS or even a sway bar and drives straight as an arrow on 40" tires. If your front suspension is set up correctly and the parts are in good working order the SS is just there to dampen shocking steering inputs from the road.
Its not to be considered a fix or a contributing factor for DW. Anyone who thinks it is has got their thinking wrong.

Mikey's Rubi, can you give a run down of your lift or is it stock?

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post #25 of 39 Old 11-17-2010, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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4 inch lift, poly performance steering everything. 37s.

We tightened everythin...and I mean everything...twice. adjusted the toe to be toe'd out almost exactly 1/8th and the wobble is almost entirely gone. That is with a tape measure and eyeballs so I think a legit measure may get her to 100%. I think it has been a combo of loose parts and old ball joints.

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