ford 9" vs Dana 60 vs 14 bolt rear - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 29 Old 11-10-2010, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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ford 9" vs Dana 60 vs 14 bolt rear

there's threads about this all over the net but i didn't see one when i searched on here... the debate is 9" or 60 and maybe a 14 bolt in the rear... for the sake of argument lets say a true 9" (not one that uses an 8.8 ring and pinion).

lets set our tire size target at 40"... how much more clearance will the 9" get you over the 60? obviously the

what's the strength difference?

Price: HP front 60's tend to be pricey, not that the HP9 is going to be cheap... cheapest for the rear is probably the 14 bolt... and the 14 bolt has different hubs for different widths...

pics:

Gears

60 left 9" right



shafts

30 spline 60 vs 30 spline 14 bolt




u joints

44 vs 60


31 jeeps in... still have issues
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post #2 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 12:51 AM
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High pinion front, low pinion rear is the strongest foward set-up. The 14b has by far the largest gears, and also has extra pinion support. They can be shaved alot, are strong as nails, and have a large *inexpensive* aftermarket following.

I've seen people run all three, and often on the same rig, and most end up with a 14b.

14FF for the win.

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post #3 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Wright View Post
High pinion front, low pinion rear is the strongest foward set-up. The 14b has by far the largest gears, and also has extra pinion support. They can be shaved alot, are strong as nails, and have a large *inexpensive* aftermarket following.

I've seen people run all three, and often on the same rig, and most end up with a 14b.

14FF for the win.
that's what i'm rockin in the rear with an HP60 up front.

what are the strength differences between an HP60 and a Hi9?

what about a LP60/lp9/14 bolt?

just curious been having a debate with a buddy as to which direction to go

31 jeeps in... still have issues
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post #4 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 07:55 AM
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Here is some more info on the True HI 9 vs Dana 60.
http://www.truehi9.com/gears2.html


Check out the Mega HI 9
http://www.truehi9.com/megahi9.html
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post #5 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 11:16 AM
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9" will be slightly stronger gears than the 60, but should have the same strength everywhere else. The 9" is also alot easier to maintain (dropout third member) than the 60, but will usually cost a little bit more to build a strong one. They aren't as strong as the 60 in stock form, as far as shafts go. Again, both have much weaker gears than the 14b, and both have weaker shafts.

14FF for the win, haha

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post #6 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 01:08 PM
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A 30-spline rear 60 would be a DOWNGRADE from a JK Rubicon 32-spline D44. The shafts are puny compared to the JK shafts.

You need a rear Dana 70 or 80 FF with the big-bore spindles so that you can stuff 35 or 40-spline shafts into it.
There are some rare and elusive D60's out there with the big bore spindles, but you never really know until you take it apart to measure.
Easily converted to disc brakes and available in various widths.
The 14BFF is also a great choice because they are cheap and easy to set up.
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post #7 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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For the front wed be looking for a ford d60 and all their inner shafts were 35 spline

31 jeeps in... still have issues
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post #8 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Co4Lo View Post
A 30-spline rear 60 would be a DOWNGRADE from a JK Rubicon 32-spline D44. The shafts are puny compared to the JK shafts.

You need a rear Dana 70 or 80 FF with the big-bore spindles so that you can stuff 35 or 40-spline shafts into it.
There are some rare and elusive D60's out there with the big bore spindles, but you never really know until you take it apart to measure.
Easily converted to disc brakes and available in various widths.
The 14BFF is also a great choice because they are cheap and easy to set up.
Downgrade except the ring/pinion......right?
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post #9 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k2wranglerx View Post
For the front wed be looking for a ford d60 and all their inner shafts were 35 spline
That's what I just picked up. 89 F350 HP60 Kingpin with 35-spline inners.

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Originally Posted by BenFoo View Post
Downgrade except the ring/pinion......right?
Yep. But the JK44 R&P's aren't really known to fail. So I would much rather have a 32-spline JK44 with chromo shafts than a 30-spline D60 in the rear.

BUT... when you start going to 35+ Spline shafts, you're probably running big enough rubber to warrant a larger R&P, so that's where a 35+ Spline D60 or other big axle comes in.

The JK44's really have some badass rotating parts. But they're wrapped in shit, unless you beef the shit.
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post #10 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 04:06 PM
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If you go with the 14b you'll want to shave that baby. That pumkin is a pig.

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zjr- I'm not that horny, but I have been known to salivate over your meat.
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post #11 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcally View Post
Here is some more info on the True HI 9 vs Dana 60.
http://www.truehi9.com/gears2.html


Check out the Mega HI 9
http://www.truehi9.com/megahi9.html
I wouldn't even bring up my opinion on this again! (TueHi9 is the shit!!!)
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post #12 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 05:12 PM
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I just went with the 40 spline chit from Currie for my rear RJ60.. I bent the flanges on the 35 spline... mainly due to the weight of my rig and my tendency for lofting the front tires in the air.

If that don't cut it, Currie is currently testing a Full Float RJ 60.. NOW we're talking. Full Float > Semi Float especially when your talking heavy weight rigs that get wheeled... and at 6000 lbs I think I qualify.

So keep the full float/semi float in your thoughts as well. I would take a full float 35 spline over a 40 spline semi float all day any day.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottrock View Post
If you go with the 14b you'll want to shave that baby. That pumkin is a pig.
When we were bending tube for my bumper a friend in the shop was shaving down a 14 bolt for his YJ... I heard that grinder in my sleep for 2 weeks.
He took off enough material to build a D44!

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post #13 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 05:26 PM
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For reference..

35 spline and 40 spline


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post #14 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HITMONEY View Post
I just went with the 40 spline chit from Currie for my rear RJ60.. I bent the flanges on the 35 spline... mainly due to the weight of my rig and my tendency for lofting the front tires in the air.

If that don't cut it, Currie is currently testing a Full Float RJ 60.. NOW we're talking. Full Float > Semi Float especially when your talking heavy weight rigs that get wheeled... and at 6000 lbs I think I qualify.

So keep the full float/semi float in your thoughts as well. I would take a full float 35 spline over a 40 spline semi float all day any day.



When we were bending tube for my bumper a friend in the shop was shaving down a 14 bolt for his YJ... I heard that grinder in my sleep for 2 weeks.
He took off enough material to build a D44!
Great point Hit. FF's are much stronger and easier to deal with if you actually manage to break a shaft. I'll be running a full float 70 or 80.
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post #15 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 05:40 PM
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rockwells.....was that an option?
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post #16 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 05:58 PM
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rockwells.....was that an option?
What about some hybrids?
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post #17 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by scottrock View Post
If you go with the 14b you'll want to shave that baby. That pumkin is a pig.
True, but you can get a lot of clearance by shaving a 14b.


2007 JK Rubi Unlimited - 5" Teraflex, 37" Iroks
2005 LJ - HP60, 14 Bolt, 39.5, some other stuff
1978 J10 SOA and 35's


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post #18 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 07:51 PM
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What hubs and outers can be run that will retain the Jeeps electronics?

I know theres always the option of hacking everything off, but a dash lit up like a christmas tree and a jeep without the electronic doo-dads just won't work for me as a daily driver. And even after I build the axles, the Jeep will still be my daily driver (I think).

I'm really stuck on the Spider 9 units.

But if I could afford it...
A local shop has a set of matching Ford dana 60s for $600. Front is a balljoint dana 60. They are a little rough, but probably in better shape than most junkyard axles. Front is a complete assembly, rear is basically a bare housing. Both have trusses welded on because they came from a 4-linked buggy.

I need a job.

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post #19 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 08:12 PM
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hi9 5.14 left .... D60 5.13 right



Toof contact and ring thinkness

Hi9 5.14


D60 5.13
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post #20 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 08:27 PM
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The setup that I'd like to run when my rig becomes a full trailer rig will be a 14BFF in the rear and a HPD60 in the front. 35-40 spline shafts, 40s, and call it a day.

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Time to build the TONS!

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Confucius say "If you no want break axle, Drive with BIG head not LITTLE head"
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post #21 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 08:29 PM
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I heard 14 bolts front and rear are the new hotness.
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post #22 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOOKEY View Post
I heard 14 bolts front and rear are the new hotness.
Saw that episode of Xtreme4x4 too huh!

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post #23 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 08:37 PM
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My vote is for the spider 9 3 ½ tube ¼ wall with True HI 9. You get the weight and clearance of HP 44’s with the strength of a 60. You end up with Light and strong axles the best of both worlds.

The only disadvantage is your empty pocket after you build a pair of axles.
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post #24 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 11:41 PM
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Found some posted info 14B vs D60....interested read. Also throws some AAM axles into it....

Quote:
This comes up from time to time and I would place a 10.5 14 bolt without doubt above a D60. 10.5 has a straddle mounted pinion (three sets of pinion bearing) and a 4 spider diff in stock open form. Never personally seen a ring and pinion broken in a 10.5 as it is a solid rear axle and was design as a replacement for the even more tank like 12 inch eaton/rockwell that GM had been using in HD P/U's until 73. I have heard that when you finally push a 10.5 too far the carrier bearing saddles tend to fail but you are talking about a extra overload. 10.5 has a designed input torque rating at yoke of about 2200 ft lbs and fails around 5000 ft lbs. I would rate a 9.5 14 bolt and D60 in same general league and would place a D70 as a closer match to a 10.5 (D70 as strong and maybe a tiny bit stronger)
Quote:
The 14 bolt has a definite edge on D60 in strength and it weighs more too. The 14 bolt 10.5 is rated at about a 4 ton load capacity housing wise(about 1 ton more than D60). As I stated before a D70 is a better match to compare to a 10.5 14 bolt. All 10.5' have 1.5 inch axle shafts minimum while many D60's do not. Also, the D60 has a 9.75" ring gear and 12ea 1/2 inch bolt holding it on and a 1.625" spline on pinion. The 14 bolt FF has a 10.5" rear gear and 12 ea 9/16 inch bolts holding it on carrier and a 1.750" spline in pinion. The D70 has a 10.2 inch ring gear with same bolts as D60 and a 1.75" spline. (about the equal of a 14 bolt) To clearly exceed a 14 bolt by a good margin you need to go to a D80 with has a 11.2" ring gear with 12ea 5/8 inch bolt holding it on and a 2 inch spline. It and the AAM 11.5 are about in the same league and both are pretty serious rear axles.
Quote:
COST!!! The AAM axle cost less than the Dana. The switch happened in 03 on the AAM 11.5 and Dodge actually uses several AAM drive axles now. The CTD uses a 11.5 and 2500 and 3500 gas truck uses a 10.5 AAM that is not same axle as GM 10.5. They also use a AAM 9.25 front axle in 2500 and 3500 trucks that shares its ring and pinion with GM 9.25 IFS. They also use a AAM 8.0 IFS diff assembly in front of 1500 full sized that designed for usage in the rear of medium sized LD SUVs and because of this is has no disconnect in it when in 2wd. It was cheaper than front drives with disconnects in them but far more expensive for owner in wasted fuel from extra drag that can easily exceed a few grand over life of truck at todays fuel prices. This is particularly sad about the AAM 9.25 front drive axle which is a stout axle otherwise and Dodge could have easily had it equipped with lockout hubs when it was designed for not much more but choose not to to keep their costs (not your operating costs) as low as possible.
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post #25 of 29 Old 11-11-2010, 11:45 PM
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