Jeep stuff I've learned - June/July 2019 - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 2 Old 07-31-2019, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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Jeep stuff I've learned - June/July 2019



I wasn't able to post a June OR a July "things I have learned" tip.


Here's a couple of things I thought someone may find useful sometime...
(tho' I've probly mentioned them before... ) .
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________
1st -

A common topic involving aftermarket parts & the JK/JKU which seems to frequently popup involves the greasing of
aftermarket dual-cardan driveshaft's centering-ball ; this necessary service often requires a shaft be removed at one flange/yoke ,
just to let ya reach a well hidden, flush zerk fitting to squirt 5-7 pumps of grease in it. Can you say PITA?



I use that thing. It's called a "right-angle needle-point grease coupler" fitting.
I got it from McMaster-Carr
(I have seen it online, too).
I just jack front pssgr wheel up & use my leg-foot to reach + slowly turn the lifted wheel ; that clocks the DC-joint to right
spot for it to be open enough to let that coupler fit in and press into that zerk on both Tom Woods 1310 & a 1350 driveshafts,
It works & is a great time saver that I've used for years.





2nd -

I saw several newer posts recently talkin about this somewhat infamous topic again.

JK owners know that almost any dragink or tie-rod can flop or roll once its tierod ends loosen w/ use.
We also know there's vast numbers of us who turn to Synergy Mfg for beefing up our Jeep's steering linkages , among other parts .

Synergy's updated model draglink now comes w/ a single-plane TRE to prevent frwrd flopping of the DL.
It's pretty common knowledge that clocking the rod-ends into misalignment on the Synergy Mfg tierod is how to mitigate the roll of it, however I
found this wasn't totally effective when I still had the original 4131 TREs ( note- this was all before Synergy intro'ed the 4139-L - that single-plane TRE - which now ships on their draglinks for JK/JLs)
that were on my earlier 8001 model Synergy DL . It would still roll-forward.

Try this:
acquire one or two Universal Replacement Urethane Tie Rod End Boot -
I get mine from Currie
but I think they are probably just reselling ProThane or Energy Bushings.

I found that if I ran one of those boots ( set , stacked ) installed ON TOP of the silicon, grease-filled boot that was already on it @the draglink's knuckle-side TRE, it stopped almost all of - leaving just the necessary amount so that it wouldnt bind - of the DL flop.

Here is pict of mine as I'm describing it:



I also futzed-around & found if I used one on that same pssgr side & for the Synergy Mfg 8002 tierod ,here,too, it eliminated most of that links flop-movement, too.

Furthermore, if I ran them on top of both tie-rod TREs, it completely eliminated any unwanted rolling forward. This was when I had the Fox ATS stabilizer ,prior to moving to assisted steering.

This was just something I had tried out of desperation ( I ripped a boot) & I found
that it prevented the movement effectively ....

Happy Trails


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Last edited by j3ff3ry_j33p; 08-02-2019 at 04:59 AM. Reason: grammar fixes
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post #2 of 2 Old 08-05-2019, 10:02 AM
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good tips especially the needle point grease coupler. i need to order one soon.

09' White JKU Rubicon with some stuff
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