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post #1 of 33 Old 12-30-2018, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Expensive looking leak.

So today i took the time to install my new rock krawler springs on my 2 door 3.8 jk. And i found this nasty leak. Looks like the rear seal. Let me know as much as possible if you have dealt with this. Its a 2007 jk with 115k miles on it. Im gonna clean it up today and watch it for the next week or so because i want to make sure its actually that. Could be something that dripped all the way down from elsewhere.

Thank you and happy new years

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post #2 of 33 Old 12-30-2018, 02:47 PM
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Rear main oil seal. That's an easy fix on the 3.8L. pull the trans and tcase, it's right there laughing at ya.

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post #3 of 33 Old 12-30-2018, 02:50 PM
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Rear main oil seal. That's an easy fix on the 3.8L. pull the trans and tcase, it's right there laughing at ya.

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It's not that easy as you make it sound.
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post #4 of 33 Old 12-30-2018, 02:52 PM
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Me and buddy did it in his 08, it was a long evening in the garage and less than 1 full case of beer.

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post #5 of 33 Old 12-30-2018, 03:01 PM
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Me and buddy did it in his 08, it was a long evening in the garage and less than 1 full case of beer.

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That I can agree with. It's a relatively simple fix but it does take time. I almost damn near killed myself dropping a tranny because the weight was offset from the tranny lift. That and and doing all this while laying on your back... it's not the same simplicity as changing your motor oil
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post #6 of 33 Old 12-30-2018, 03:35 PM
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We pulled the transmission and T-case as one, pulled driveshafts and skids and cross members. Used a harbor freight transmission floor jack. The parts from the dealer if I recall correctly we're around $70?

Wait... Maybe we separated the T-Case.... Did I mention the beer?

While there... May as well shove a new factory clutch, pressure plate and get rid of that noisy junk throw out bearing

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post #7 of 33 Old 12-30-2018, 04:11 PM
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Stick to your original plan. Clean it up and keep an eye on it. Don't assume it's a rear main seal.
Look as high up on the bell housing and engine as you can see. You may find the source on the top of the engine.

Mine once looked the same as yours. The source was the timing chain cover, all the way on the front of the engine.

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post #8 of 33 Old 12-31-2018, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for the input, if it's another leak i might attempt it, otherwise this is going to a shop unless there is a very good guide out there. How much should i be expecting to pay for this fix at a reputable shop?

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post #9 of 33 Old 12-31-2018, 11:47 AM
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Thank you all for the input, if it's another leak i might attempt it, otherwise this is going to a shop unless there is a very good guide out there. How much should i be expecting to pay for this fix at a reputable shop?

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I don't have access to the All Data database anymore, but if I were to guess.... All Data would likely flat rate it at around 6 or so hours. That's just my off the cuff guess.

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post #10 of 33 Old 12-31-2018, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjenx View Post
Stick to your original plan. Clean it up and keep an eye on it. Don't assume it's a rear main seal.
Look as high up on the bell housing and engine as you can see. You may find the source on the top of the engine.

Mine once looked the same as yours. The source was the timing chain cover, all the way on the front of the engine.
This is good advice. Valve covers by firewall are also possibility. Clean it up and check regularly and you should be able to pinpoint it. Rear pan also is a hot leak spot that looks like a rear main leak but it's a regular old pan leak. I would also say to pull that "cover"/two bolts and take a look/ that's where my pan was leaking.

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post #11 of 33 Old 12-31-2018, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you wonderful people. I will keep track of it? Now how long should i keep track of it for, i dont wanma end up running out of whatever is leaking and ruin something

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post #12 of 33 Old 01-01-2019, 07:22 PM
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Thank you wonderful people. I will keep track of it? Now how long should i keep track of it for, i dont wanma end up running out of whatever is leaking and ruin something

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I check my oil pretty regular just because I burn a quart a monthish.

Once you get it clean check visually often so you find the source before it "spreads" again and check your oil level periodically as a matter of general upkeep even without a visual leak.

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post #13 of 33 Old 01-01-2019, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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I already do check my oil i lose about a quart every month as well on my 3.8. is there a possibility whatever is leaking is not engine oil?

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post #14 of 33 Old 01-01-2019, 11:44 PM
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My 2008 3.8 Rubicon started seeping motor oil from what looked like the front and rear seal and upon cleaning it with Brake cleaner spray I saw after a short drive it was seeping from the upper oil pan gasket. The factory gasket was pretty thin and started seeping front and rear. The upper pan is aluminum and many heating's and cooling's finally started it to leak, I got a replacement from Napa Auto and it was rubberize and much thicker. Go to google for the how to, it's pretty straight forward. Really easy if you have access to a hoist. Be very sure to follow the instructions especially the torque values.
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post #15 of 33 Old 01-03-2019, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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A bunch more pictures, i cant really pin point it guys. I know it takes about 12 hours for a drop to fall down on the garage floor because i wanted to see how bad it was but as far as from where. I have no clue

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post #16 of 33 Old 01-03-2019, 11:13 AM
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I think you have a combination of leaks. The upper and lower oil pan do appear to be wetted, and really the rear main looks like it's leaking as well. I would go after the easiest, the upper and lower pan. Seal those two up and see if it's still leaking enough to bother you from anywhere else....

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post #17 of 33 Old 01-03-2019, 11:58 AM
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You look like you're having the same problems as me. I'm trying to figure mine out as well. I have a bit of oil starting by the intake manifold gasket so I'm going to start there. Apparently it can run down the back of the valley to the bell housing and it looks like it's coming down the front to the oil pan like yours.

More cleaning and searching in my future.

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post #18 of 33 Old 01-03-2019, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by larry0071 View Post
I think you have a combination of leaks. The upper and lower oil pan do appear to be wetted, and really the rear main looks like it's leaking as well. I would go after the easiest, the upper and lower pan. Seal those two up and see if it's still leaking enough to bother you from anywhere else....

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I think im going to do those and the tranny pan while doing my transmission fluid because i dont think that has ever been done.

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post #19 of 33 Old 01-03-2019, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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You look like you're having the same problems as me. I'm trying to figure mine out as well. I have a bit of oil starting by the intake manifold gasket so I'm going to start there. Apparently it can run down the back of the valley to the bell housing and it looks like it's coming down the front to the oil pan like yours.



More cleaning and searching in my future.



Sean
A lot more in my future as well, may we have this done asap, because im about done with it at this point, and if it is the rear main then ima spend the money and get it done by someone else.

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post #20 of 33 Old 01-05-2019, 06:53 PM
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I dug into mine really good today and after a lot of cleaning and scrubbing I went to the pressure washer and sprayed it off. By the time I got home I could see the oil coming from the crankshaft seal and running almost all the way to the rear of the engine. I'm sure if the drive was a little longer it would have been coming off the bell housing again.

I replaced that and the oil pan gasket while I was at it. Only took a couple of hours for both. I didn't know if you had looked there yet, thought it might help. I have to let the rtv dry before I find out if it worked.

I put a shoptowel over my flywheel since last night with the idea that if it was a rear main than something would show up on it.

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post #21 of 33 Old 01-05-2019, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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I dug into mine really good today and after a lot of cleaning and scrubbing I went to the pressure washer and sprayed it off. By the time I got home I could see the oil coming from the crankshaft seal and running almost all the way to the rear of the engine. I'm sure if the drive was a little longer it would have been coming off the bell housing again.



I replaced that and the oil pan gasket while I was at it. Only took a couple of hours for both. I didn't know if you had looked there yet, thought it might help. I have to let the rtv dry before I find out if it worked.



I put a shoptowel over my flywheel since last night with the idea that if it was a rear main than something would show up on it.



Sean
I plan on doing mine tomorrow, this is actually very helpful except i think my leak is extremely slow but maybe ill leave a gopro under it to see exactly where its coming from. Thank you so much for the help man and i hope that you finally solved it, my turn i guess

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post #22 of 33 Old 01-08-2019, 08:36 AM
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I had the exact looking leak on my '07 around 115k miles. I too assumed it was the rear main seal, and decided to go ahead and do the clutch at the same time. Low and behold, the rear main seal was dry as a bone. After tons of research, I found that the rear main seal isn't really problematic on our 3.8's. Turns out, it was my oil pan gasket. so we went ahead and changed it. 2 years later and the bottom of my Jeep is still dry as a bone. I would look at doing the oil pan before tearing the trans out, unless you want to go ahead and do the clutch. Just wait till your next oil change and do it at the same time.

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post #23 of 33 Old 01-08-2019, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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I had the exact looking leak on my '07 around 115k miles. I too assumed it was the rear main seal, and decided to go ahead and do the clutch at the same time. Low and behold, the rear main seal was dry as a bone. After tons of research, I found that the rear main seal isn't really problematic on our 3.8's. Turns out, it was my oil pan gasket. so we went ahead and changed it. 2 years later and the bottom of my Jeep is still dry as a bone. I would look at doing the oil pan before tearing the trans out, unless you want to go ahead and do the clutch. Just wait till your next oil change and do it at the same time.
we are an identical scenario, because i have an 07 3.8 with 115k on it and just like you some of my friends told me it might just be the pan. Now did u do upper and lower or just lower pan?

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post #24 of 33 Old 01-08-2019, 09:31 AM
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I did both I've ran across several other people who fixed their leak by doing it as well. The gaskets are fairly cheap. It was less than $40 from the dealership.
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Current vehicles:
2007 Sahara 2-Door
5.38 gears
Trussed, sleeved, gusseted Dana 44 front w/ factory Rubi locker and RCV shafts
Stock rear Rubi Dana 44 with Auburn Ected locker w/ 35 spline chromoly shafts
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37X12.50R17 Nitto Trail Grapplers
F&R AEV Bumpers w/ AEV rear tire carrier
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Warn Zeon 10-S winch

2010 Jeep SRT8 w/ 440 stroker making 550 whp

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post #25 of 33 Old 01-08-2019, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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I did both I've ran across several other people who fixed their leak by doing it as well. The gaskets are fairly cheap. It was less than $40 from the dealership.
I will tackle that and my transmission fluid filter next time i have time. Hopefully thats all i need, thank you so much man this gives me hope that this wont cost me a grand lol

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