How much cutting for 40's? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 143 Old 11-13-2018, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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How much cutting for 40's?

Okay, so hope it's not a completely lame question in that I am somewhat prepared already.

The questions are:

How much cutting do I have to do and where? Right now I assume that I will be trimming in three spots.

1) Front fenders, aft of the front tires
2) Rear wheel well ahead of the tires
2) Rear wheel well aft of the tires

Assuming about 1.5" of trimming in the above directions is enough. Am I missing anything?

No body lift. Not gonna happen.

Here is where I am at today:
4" linear Evo coils with 3" bump stops at all four corners. 37" Nittos on beadlocks with 4" back spacing. Stock rubicon axles. Metal Cloack control arms - full set. Big bore steering box and OSC high flow steering pump. Patriot 9500UT winch.

I want to keep the same lift and bump stops.

Ordering front and rear Dana UD60s with 5.38's, 39" or 40" tires and 8 lug beadlocks with 3.5" back spacing.
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post #2 of 143 Old 11-13-2018, 07:43 PM
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You really dont know until you flex it out. Shock length, where you have your arms set, front steering all will create adjsutments.

What are you going to do for driveshafts?1310, 1350, 1410's. What U joint does thefront dana axle use?

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post #3 of 143 Old 11-13-2018, 08:50 PM
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I had to trim a few times behind the front tires until they stopped rubbing. Cut up the tires a lil finding out i needed to trim more. So be aggressive with the trimming from the start.
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post #4 of 143 Old 11-14-2018, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
You really dont know until you flex it out. Shock length, where you have your arms set, front steering all will create adjsutments.

What are you going to do for driveshafts?1310, 1350, 1410's. What U joint does thefront dana axle use?
Yeah, I will probably take a stab at cutting and then flex it out. I'm working without a lift so it would be easier to go out and flext the jeep somewhere once it gets assembled.

The UD60s come ready to go with 1350 yokes front and rear so I'm getting new drive shafts with that. Rear one was stock and toast anyway. Front went to a 1310 a long time ago.

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Originally Posted by Nucleophile View Post
As the Dirtman said...………………...plus you will find more rubbing out on the trails when you really flex it out!

Stock fender flares? (Yikes!) Stock wheel well liners? You will be trimming those up.

A friend of mine just did this upgrade with Nemesis flares and liners. He has some minor rubbing on both. (4.5" springs)


You just need to keep tweaking it until nothing rubs or just live with the rubbing.
Stock fenders and flares are cut. If I hit something, it will be that metal tab poking out of the front fender wells at the top of the curve (fender supports).

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Originally Posted by spinuck View Post
I had to trim a few times behind the front tires until they stopped rubbing. Cut up the tires a lil finding out i needed to trim more. So be aggressive with the trimming from the start.
I will just trim back ~2" for now and then get it all installed.


As far as cutting, what is the best tool for a quick, precise cur on that sheet metal? I have an angled pneumatic die grinder, a handheld pneumatic sawsall thingy (old and worn out) and a Milwaukee Fuel Sawzall. Have a Dremel and hand saws too.
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post #5 of 143 Old 11-17-2018, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White13JKUR View Post

As far as cutting, what is the best tool for a quick, precise cur on that sheet metal? I have an angled pneumatic die grinder, a handheld pneumatic sawsall thingy (old and worn out) and a Milwaukee Fuel Sawzall. Have a Dremel and hand saws too.
Fresh bladed sawsall and smooth down afterwards if your liking. Paint the cuts. I then caulked the sheet metal gaps. Our suspensions are different but take a look at my cuts if you have a chance before you do yours to get a gauge.
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post #6 of 143 Old 11-17-2018, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RRauzer View Post
Fresh bladed sawsall and smooth down afterwards if your liking. Paint the cuts. I then caulked the sheet metal gaps. Our suspensions are different but take a look at my cuts if you have a chance before you do yours to get a gauge.

Thanks, M.

I found some pics on the internet and are about what i had in mind. I'll start there and head over to an upcoming jeep night anyway to check out your rig - in the old E46.

Looks like i will need to hack into the foam area in front of the rear wheels. I've worked with fiberglass before a little. Wondering if I could just cap off that foam area with some fiberglass and then a little paint work?
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post #7 of 143 Old 11-18-2018, 08:57 AM
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Dont know your shock travel or ratio but know a 1350 u joint driveshaft will not droop as much as a 1310 or 1410.

Just somehing to think about since you are dropping a ton of money.
I have been runnign 1310's on the transfer case side but 3 yolks exploded in the last 2 years I am moving to cold forged flanges at the TC. Currently my front shaft limits me on droop with 1310 at eh tc and 1350 at the axle.

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post #8 of 143 Old 11-18-2018, 09:03 AM
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Did you happend to call about fusion axles? I would take them anyday over the UD60's We just did a set on a build at Nates and they are worth the extra money. I would order them a bit wider then the UD60 with a littel more caster built into them as well. With 40x13.5 tire 70" WMS will be a better fit even with the 3.5" bs wheels or go 72" with 4.5" bs wheels.

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post #9 of 143 Old 11-18-2018, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
Did you happend to call about fusion axles? I would take them anyday over the UD60's We just did a set on a build at Nates and they are worth the extra money. I would order them a bit wider then the UD60 with a littel more caster built into them as well. With 40x13.5 tire 70" WMS will be a better fit even with the 3.5" bs wheels or go 72" with 4.5" bs wheels.
Thanks. I've been meaning to call them but never did. Admittedly a Northridge fanboy. They've always taken care of me.

I'll give fusion a call. Who do I want to speak with? Marcus?
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post #10 of 143 Old 11-18-2018, 01:34 PM
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Dan is who to call at Fusion4x4.

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post #11 of 143 Old 11-19-2018, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
Dan is who to call at Fusion4x4.
Spoke to him this morning. Seems like a good package but it's a bit wider than I was wanting to go at 72".

The Currie VXRs have also caught my eye as have the Dynatrac Hard Core Plus ProRock XD60's.

Have not heard positive things on Currie customer service so they would be ruled out quickly.
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post #12 of 143 Old 11-19-2018, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by White13JKUR View Post
Spoke to him this morning. Seems like a good package but it's a bit wider than I was wanting to go at 72".

The Currie VXRs have also caught my eye as have the Dynatrac Hard Core Plus ProRock XD60's.

Have not heard positive things on Currie customer service so they would be ruled out quickly.

Although WOD pimps Dynatrac, you really can't go wrong with them. FF or SF.

Sure, FF tons and being able to pull an axle shaft without worry would be bad ass, but I didn't want to wait the crazy Dynatrac leadtime and didn't want all the extra weight on a DD.

I've got the PR44U up front with the rear SF XD60 in a 68.5" width tricked with 3.75" tubes, .313" wall, and the r/p + bearings are absolute beef (compared to a regular D60) without all of the added weight of a FF. 35 spline. Plus no RTV on the XD versions and you still keep the 5x5 wheels so no $$ lost there. Really the best of both worlds. 37" or 38" tires no problem.

The main thing I do like with the Rock Jocks is the slider on the diff. That's the only thing I wish the Dynatrac's had.

After reading the thread on going to tons and seeing the little gain in investment, for my use and how I use the Jeep, I'm actually more glad I went this route for a DD. It it were a trailer queen, it would be different.

Having said that, don't mean to sidetrack your thread if you're 100% going FF tons lol. You gotta go with what you really want...
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post #13 of 143 Old 11-19-2018, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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Although WOD pimps Dynatrac, you really can't go wrong with them. FF or SF.

Sure, FF tons and being able to pull an axle shaft without worry would be bad ass, but I didn't want to wait the crazy Dynatrac leadtime and didn't want all the extra weight on a DD.

I've got the PR44U up front with the rear SF XD60 in a 68.5" width tricked with 3.75" tubes, .313" wall, and the r/p + bearings are absolute beef (compared to a regular D60) without all of the added weight of a FF. 35 spline. Plus no RTV on the XD versions and you still keep the 5x5 wheels so no $$ lost there. Really the best of both worlds. 37" or 38" tires no problem.

The main thing I do like with the Rock Jocks is the slider on the diff. That's the only thing I wish the Dynatrac's had.

After reading the thread on going to tons and seeing the little gain in investment, for my use and how I use the Jeep, I'm actually more glad I went this route for a DD. It it were a trailer queen, it would be different.

Having said that, don't mean to sidetrack your thread if you're 100% going FF tons lol. You gotta go with what you really want...
Thanks for the feedback. Actually I looked into that setup as well. Also easier to buy the rear axle now (which I need) and buy the front next year. And no wheel upgrade penalty.

The UD60s "create axles" are usually on the shelf ready to ship. I think lead time is less on the high pinion Pro Rock 60.The UD60s are also about $11K delivered with brakes (wheels and drive shafts not included).

I am still really tempted by the pro rock 44/60. A bent rear flange does not really scare me. If it's bad enough, that means a ride home on a flat bed. i am going to upgrade my AAA coverage to the 200 mile one to cover the ride from the Rubicon or slick rock to my house.

I also like the idea of staying with 37s but going to a stickier tire like the Krawler blue labels. Those measure a true 37 anyway.

With my manual transmission, supercharger and crappy driving, i do fear snapping the ring and pinion on the high pinion.
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post #14 of 143 Old 11-19-2018, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by White13JKUR View Post
If it's bad enough, that means a ride home on a flat bed. i am going to upgrade my AAA coverage to the 200 mile one to cover the ride from the Rubicon or slick rock to my house.
Don't forget your pal with a flat bed that's always looking for excuses to ditch a day in the office
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post #15 of 143 Old 11-19-2018, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by White13JKUR View Post
Thanks for the feedback. Actually I looked into that setup as well. Also easier to buy the rear axle now (which I need) and buy the front next year. And no wheel upgrade penalty.

The UD60s "create axles" are usually on the shelf ready to ship. I think lead time is less on the high pinion Pro Rock 60.The UD60s are also about $11K delivered with brakes (wheels and drive shafts not included).

I am still really tempted by the pro rock 44/60. A bent rear flange does not really scare me. If it's bad enough, that means a ride home on a flat bed. i am going to upgrade my AAA coverage to the 200 mile one to cover the ride from the Rubicon or slick rock to my house.

I also like the idea of staying with 37s but going to a stickier tire like the Krawler blue labels. Those measure a true 37 anyway.

With my manual transmission, supercharger and crappy driving, i do fear snapping the ring and pinion on the high pinion.

No problem Paul. Just wanted to throw it out there because not many are running this setup since the XD60 is fairly new.

Regarding the snapping on a high pinion, that's a big reason why I chose to go with the Super 60 ring gear because I will supercharge within the next 6 months. And after looking at Dyna's video on the XD's bearings, man it is night and day compared to OEM D44 and D60 bearings.

Another local Jeeper (25+ year auto mechanic) who help me install it at his shop was so impressed, he would like to go with the same setup on his JKUR.

Dyna doesn't market the rear XD60 in SF on their website but you can get it. I ordered it directly and when I bought it, it came in under $5k. And the flanges on this thing = BEEF. It's like comparing a Big Mac to a happy meal cheeseburger. I even ordered a spare axle shaft just in case so if you want to see it up front, just let me know. The flanges are no joke on this thing.

The front PR44U was paid for by another guys insurance so I got a screaming deal for both axles and I can't complain.

I would highly recommend PR44U front / XD60 rear for your rig if you want the bump up in beef but don't want to deal with all the weight and still keep your Jeep sporty for every day driving...
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post #16 of 143 Old 11-19-2018, 05:12 PM
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I'm also running Adams 1310 front and Adams 1350 rear (had a local shop cut it down to the correct size). Both with solid u-joints and with flanges for more strength...
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post #17 of 143 Old 11-19-2018, 05:12 PM
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YOu also get small brakes with that semi float set up. 39-40" on a JKU on semi floats is just throwing away good money.

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post #18 of 143 Old 11-19-2018, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
YOu also get small brakes with that semi float set up. 39-40" on a JKU on semi floats is just throwing away good money.

I did upgrade to Dyna's Big Rotor kit so no problem on 37's (and probably 38's if I go that route on my next set of tires but I'm leaning towards the KM3's since I'm a BFG fan-boy)...

I agree though, 39 and up you need beef in the brake department.

...and like I mentioned, I only paid $5k for both axles so I chalk it up as a generous gift from the man upstairs...
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post #19 of 143 Old 11-19-2018, 05:24 PM
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The op is planning on 40's like the title of the thread.

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post #20 of 143 Old 11-19-2018, 05:32 PM
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The op is planning on 40's like the title of the thread.

Yup and I believe Hoggstatus is still running 40's on his PR44U and rear OEM D44...
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post #21 of 143 Old 11-19-2018, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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The op is planning on 40's like the title of the thread.
On a setup like that, I would run 37s and max 38. Dynctrac says 38s are okay since they barely measure over 37 anyway.

That was my original plan. Then I convinced myself to go with UD60s and full float. That's when my tire ambitions kicked in.

The thread is titled how much to cut for 40's. I think i got that question answered plus I saw some pics of what Mr. WOL with his. The pics were useful but I feel all dirty inside just for looking.
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post #22 of 143 Old 11-19-2018, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Yup and I believe Hoggstatus is still running 40's on his PR44U and rear OEM D44...
Indeed! He ran 37s on his D30 for the longest time to. He busted the spider gears on the annual trip a few years back and it was in the NR4x4 "bucket list" video.
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post #23 of 143 Old 11-19-2018, 05:49 PM
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Indeed! He ran 37s on his D30 for the longest time to. He busted the spider gears on the annual trip a few years back and it was in the NR4x4 "bucket list" video.

Yup. And I'm not saying to anyone run 40s on stock brakes BUT he is running 40s (granted with the 3.8L) on 44s AND he wheels a lot more than I do...

So in comparison, I feel pretty safe and confident with my setup lol

..and if you go SF, skip out on the regular D60. Definitely go XD60 instead....
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post #24 of 143 Old 11-19-2018, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Yup. And I'm not saying to anyone run 40s on stock brakes BUT he is running 40s (granted with the 3.8L) on 44s AND he wheels a lot more than I do...

So in comparison, I feel pretty safe and confident with my setup lol

..and if you go SF, skip out on the regular D60. Definitely go XD60 instead....
And he's running 1310 drive shafts too.

I didn't think the XD60 was available as SF..?? I thought those were FF. Anyway, I have an email in to them.
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post #25 of 143 Old 11-19-2018, 05:59 PM
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1310's have more available flex to the joint and should be fine for 40's.

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