Wheel Offset on Hardcore D60's - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 31 Old 04-28-2017, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Wheel Offset on Hardcore D60's

Anyone that is running Hardcore D60's please let me know what wheel offset you are running and how far they stick out. Thank you!

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post #2 of 31 Old 04-28-2017, 05:44 PM
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I imagine you're referring to Ultimate Dana 60s?

This is 69" WMS with 3.5" back spacing and 40x13.50 tires.







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post #3 of 31 Old 04-28-2017, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RiverCityOffroad View Post
I imagine you're referring to Ultimate Dana 60s?

This is 69" WMS with 3.5" back spacing and 40x13.50 tires.





The dynatrac 60's? And what wheel offset?

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post #4 of 31 Old 04-28-2017, 05:54 PM
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The dynatrac 60's? And what wheel offset?
These are the Dana Spicer Ultimate Dana 60s...sorry I forgot Dynatrac gave their axles a name beyond Pro Rock.

The WMS to WMS measurement on these is 69". If you are running 37s - 40s and planning on wheeling hard go with 3.5" back spacing. 4" at the lowest, but I'd stick to 3.5.


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post #5 of 31 Old 04-28-2017, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RiverCityOffroad View Post
These are the Dana Spicer Ultimate Dana 60s...sorry I forgot Dynatrac gave their axles a name beyond Pro Rock.

The WMS to WMS measurement on these is 69". If you are running 37s - 40s and planning on wheeling hard go with 3.5" back spacing. 4" at the lowest, but I'd stick to 3.5.
Do you know what offset those rims are because you can have a 3.5 backspacing on a 0mm offset rim and a -12 mm offset rim and they will stick out differently. Backspacing is only the clearance from the mounting surface.

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post #6 of 31 Old 04-28-2017, 06:11 PM
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I read this & thought OP was asking about the Yukon locking hubs sometimes referred-to as Hardcore D60s but then , Dynatrac does have same-named, don't they..


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post #7 of 31 Old 04-28-2017, 07:06 PM
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Pro rock 60's are 68.5 WMS. How much a wheel will stick out will depend on the width of the wheel you run. You can typically figure you are going to be around 85" out side to outside of the tires with pro rocks and 40's

On a 9" wide rim you should be looking at no more then 3.5" of bs in order to have clearance for full turn.

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post #8 of 31 Old 04-28-2017, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
Pro rock 60's are 68.5 WMS. How much a wheel will stick out will depend on the width of the wheel you run. You can typically figure you are going to be around 85" out side to outside of the tires with pro rocks and 40's

On a 9" wide rim you should be looking at no more then 3.5" of bs in order to have clearance for full turn.
Why doesn't anyone talk about offset when talking about rims and how far they stick out?
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post #9 of 31 Old 04-28-2017, 07:41 PM
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Backspacing and offset are the exact same thing, stated in different terms.

A 9" wide wheel with an offset of -12MM (.5") is the same as a 9" wide wheel with 4.5" back spacing.

If you're buying 24x16s you generally talk about offset. If you're building a Jeep you generally talk about back spacing. It is two different worlds with the same end result. We just talk about things differently.

Are you going to run 60s with 24s or 17s?


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post #10 of 31 Old 04-28-2017, 07:41 PM
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Because the issue is clearance to the frame, control arms, and to maintain full steering without rubbing stuff. Off set is really not an issue unless you have to keep the tires under the fenders.

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post #11 of 31 Old 04-28-2017, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiverCityOffroad View Post
Backspacing and offset are the exact same thing, stated in different terms.

A 9" wide wheel with an offset of -12MM (.5") is the same as a 9" wide wheel with 4.5" back spacing.

If you're buying 24x16s you generally talk about offset. If you're building a Jeep you generally talk about back spacing. It is two different worlds with the same end result. We just talk about things differently.

Are you going to run 60s with 24s or 17s?
Well I know what I have no with no problems. Don't know what the backspacing is without measuring but 35's from stock height then up to 4.5 of lift with no issues ever. Now that I am putting some serious money in the jeep with the dynatrac 60's. I want to make sure I get a wheel that functions and looks good as well. I plan on getting 40's on 17's. I don't have the luxury of taking the jeep to the tire shop because I am stationed in Guam. Getting my stuff from the states so I want to make sure I get the right gear.

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post #12 of 31 Old 04-28-2017, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RiverCityOffroad View Post
These are the Dana Spicer Ultimate Dana 60s...sorry I forgot Dynatrac gave their axles a name beyond Pro Rock.

The WMS to WMS measurement on these is 69". If you are running 37s - 40s and planning on wheeling hard go with 3.5" back spacing. 4" at the lowest, but I'd stick to 3.5.
Ok so I am learning!!! Offset and backspacing are the same thing just equal to the standard and metric system. So most rim websites I look at have offset and not backspacing. So 3.5 inches of backspacing would be -38 offset or more. I am having a hard time finding rims with that much of an offset. Am I on the right track? Also wondering if beadlocks would be worth the investment if I plan to drive on the street every now and then?

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post #13 of 31 Old 04-29-2017, 07:18 AM
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Offset and backspacing are not the same thing. Offset will differ from back spacing depending on the width of the wheel. Offset is how far the mounting surface is from the centerline of the wheel where Backspace is the distance from the inside edge of a wheel to the mounting face. A wheel’s backspace is equal to ½ the wheel’s width + offset + ½”.
So two different width wheels can have the same offset but the back spacing will be different.
Your building a rig that has 40's and tons that is mainly for trails and you were not going to put bead locks on it? Is this a show build or do you just like trowing away money?

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post #14 of 31 Old 04-29-2017, 11:42 AM
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UD 60's with 4" BS Racelines.
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post #15 of 31 Old 04-29-2017, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
Offset and backspacing are not the same thing. Offset will differ from back spacing depending on the width of the wheel. Offset is how far the mounting surface is from the centerline of the wheel where Backspace is the distance from the inside edge of a wheel to the mounting face. A wheel’s backspace is equal to ½ the wheel’s width + offset + ½”.
So two different width wheels can have the same offset but the back spacing will be different.
Your building a rig that has 40's and tons that is mainly for trails and you were not going to put bead locks on it? Is this a show build or do you just like trowing away money?
The one thing I don't like about forums is when people make negative comments!! If I wanted to throw money away I wouldn't be on this forum asking questions from people like yourself that have a wealth of knowledge that should want to help their fellow jeep members. I have read that beadlocks are hard to balance and I am setting my rig up for trail only but want to drive it on the street every now and then. I have been offroad a lot since 2012 when I bought the jeep with 35's and run aired down to 8 psi and have only once popped a bead. So again I ask questions!!!

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post #16 of 31 Old 04-29-2017, 04:42 PM
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The one thing I don't like about forums is when people make negative comments!! If I wanted to throw money away I wouldn't be on this forum asking questions from people like yourself that have a wealth of knowledge that should want to help their fellow jeep members. I have read that beadlocks are hard to balance and I am setting my rig up for trail only but want to drive it on the street every now and then. I have been offroad a lot since 2012 when I bought the jeep with 35's and run aired down to 8 psi and have only once popped a bead. So again I ask questions!!!
I didn't read that as a negative comment.

Beadlocks will make it easier to mount the tires yourself. I have gotten kickback from local shops trying to mount 35s on my truck. Beadlocks allow you to do it yourself.

Also, most don't balance 40s.

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post #17 of 31 Old 04-29-2017, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
Offset and backspacing are not the same thing. Offset will differ from back spacing depending on the width of the wheel. Offset is how far the mounting surface is from the centerline of the wheel where Backspace is the distance from the inside edge of a wheel to the mounting face. A wheel?s backspace is equal to ½ the wheel?s width + offset + ½?.
So two different width wheels can have the same offset but the back spacing will be different.
Your building a rig that has 40's and tons that is mainly for trails and you were not going to put bead locks on it? Is this a show build or do you just like trowing away money?
The one thing I don't like about forums is when people make negative comments!! If I wanted to throw money away I wouldn't be on this forum asking questions from people like yourself that have a wealth of knowledge that should want to help their fellow jeep members. I have read that beadlocks are hard to balance and I am setting my rig up for trail only but want to drive it on the street every now and then. I have been offroad a lot since 2012 when I bought the jeep with 35's and run aired down to 8 psi and have only once popped a bead. So again I ask questions!!!
Quality beadlocks will balance as good as any wheel.

I have had two different sets of Racelines and both have balanced just fine.

DIY weld on beadlocks, probably not but those who use those are trail only.
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post #18 of 31 Old 04-29-2017, 08:13 PM
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The one thing I don't like about forums is when people make negative comments!! If I wanted to throw money away I wouldn't be on this forum asking questions from people like yourself that have a wealth of knowledge that should want to help their fellow jeep members. I have read that beadlocks are hard to balance and I am setting my rig up for trail only but want to drive it on the street every now and then. I have been offroad a lot since 2012 when I bought the jeep with 35's and run aired down to 8 psi and have only once popped a bead. So again I ask questions!!!
Keep the JK on 35's and build a buggy for the hard core stuff, the JK is just a poor platform for it unless you plan on destroying it.

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post #19 of 31 Old 04-29-2017, 10:30 PM
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Keep the JK on 35's and build a buggy for the hard core stuff, the JK is just a poor platform for it unless you plan on destroying it.
this I am discovering to be extremely true. You have to have an abandonment of the sensible inclinations normally centered-around something as costly as a JK/JKU. You stop caring at all about appearence or driving quality or tire balance and by this time you are cutting B pillars off and comp cutting and adding real cages , full size axles, etc. ..it is a buggy, pretty much.
I will add that it seems a lot of us do not GET to the point of wanting to build something up as much as is being refered-to unless we acquire the very JK/JKU in question since it ultimately is what triggers the interest in harderr-core ( ?) build to tackle greater and greater trails/obstacles,rocks,walls,et al.
It is sorta a catch 22 and by the time you are in all the way, the Jeep is not really a Jeep civi-transport ,truckster-wagon any more.
Mine is getting beat to heck I just realized but there is no option to turn back - My loving, underrstanding wife definately said she'd leave me if I bought a rock buggy instead of a new truck for her so I think that means bying something like that is prolly not an option - and this is coming from who's JKU is far,far from what is considered hard core or extreme or heavily modded by today's staneards.
Good point, thedirtman...your wisdom on these matters is consistently accurate & appreciated.


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post #20 of 31 Old 04-29-2017, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't read that as a negative comment.

Beadlocks will make it easier to mount the tires yourself. I have gotten kickback from local shops trying to mount 35s on my truck. Beadlocks allow you to do it yourself.

Also, most don't balance 40s.
Well no one likes throwing money away so why say that? I don't want to be one of those guys who spends the money but doesn't have their rig set up right or the right gear so I ask questions on here to learn from people with the expertise and knowledge. Plus I am military with 4 kids so I definitely can't throw money away. I just didn't know if bead locks would be worth all the extra money since I have never had any issues with my 35's. I know 40's are a totally different animal and again that is why I ask.

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post #21 of 31 Old 04-30-2017, 09:20 AM
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"Set up for the trail" is a relative term, it depends on the trails you are running. Those trails you ran on 35's will be boring as they will have no challenge at all with a set up like you are talking about. You will seek out harder and more dangerous trails that are going to offer roll over and body damage. You are going to run steeper waterfalls that require some power (lacks power bad on a jk). The jeep is going to get twisted in all kinds of weird positions and your tires are going to be put the extreme as far as side loading, your going to need bead locks. 40's and tons are not bulletproof, I still break shit all the time and I know how heavy I am is a big part of it. This is in your face true when you go to a rock crawling competition or just watch a light weight buggy on the trail. Watch a light weight buggy roll and a couple guys tip it back on the wheels and off he goes. That v8 powered buggy is going to go far more places off road then any JK out there as well. Roll a JK and you see thousands of $$$ of damage and the need for a new windshield and frame even with a proper cage.
You will likely find you want a twin stick transfer case for lower gearing and the ability to do front digs to drag the rear end around obstacles. You are going to spend more money on spare parts due to having more replaceable parts and the fact you are running bigger components. You are still going to break i-joints, yolks, hubs,axle shafts.

Famous places like Moab and the Rubicon can be run all day on 35's proper gearing , and lockers with little challenge if you can drive at all.

When all is said and done you have thrown $50K into a vehicle that is still going to be worth KBB value + about .10 on the $1 for your modifications and have limited your buying public to just a handful of people that would have the desire to have what you built and have the money to buy it. The only jeeps you see that somewhat retain their modified value are ones with a properly done V8 swap and still they loose on most of the other components. So you could throw $50K in a bad ass buggy (there is an hammers raced ultra 4 car for sale here for $45k) and have a JKU worth $25k or throw $50K in a JKU that will be worth $35K that is hard to sell. Putting a JK on 40's, tons, and coil overs is throwing money away no mater how you phrase the argument. Maybe you are worth millions and the money is not an issue, if so then good luck with the build and don't settle on 40's and 60's, do Dana 80's and some 54's with a 7.0 supercharged LS.

This is why I made the comment of you throwing away money. Take my advise or not, does not matter to me. I have just been there, done that.

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post #22 of 31 Old 04-30-2017, 09:39 AM
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UD 60's with 4" BS Racelines.
Do you have any pics of the wheels on those Coopers? I'm going with Racelines, but was curious how rings fit into the tire lip.
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post #23 of 31 Old 04-30-2017, 10:01 AM
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Do you have any pics of the wheels on those Coopers? I'm going with Racelines, but was curious how rings fit into the tire lip.




You will need a set of spacers that Raceline sells for the Cooper's. The Cooper has a pretty thick bead...not as thick as a PitBull but close.

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post #24 of 31 Old 04-30-2017, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
"Set up for the trail" is a relative term, it depends on the trails you are running. Those trails you ran on 35's will be boring as they will have no challenge at all with a set up like you are talking about. You will seek out harder and more dangerous trails that are going to offer roll over and body damage. You are going to run steeper waterfalls that require some power (lacks power bad on a jk). The jeep is going to get twisted in all kinds of weird positions and your tires are going to be put the extreme as far as side loading, your going to need bead locks. 40's and tons are not bulletproof, I still break shit all the time and I know how heavy I am is a big part of it. This is in your face true when you go to a rock crawling competition or just watch a light weight buggy on the trail. Watch a light weight buggy roll and a couple guys tip it back on the wheels and off he goes. That v8 powered buggy is going to go far more places off road then any JK out there as well. Roll a JK and you see thousands of $$$ of damage and the need for a new windshield and frame even with a proper cage.

You will likely find you want a twin stick transfer case for lower gearing and the ability to do front digs to drag the rear end around obstacles. You are going to spend more money on spare parts due to having more replaceable parts and the fact you are running bigger components. You are still going to break i-joints, yolks, hubs,axle shafts.



Famous places like Moab and the Rubicon can be run all day on 35's proper gearing , and lockers with little challenge if you can drive at all.



When all is said and done you have thrown $50K into a vehicle that is still going to be worth KBB value + about .10 on the $1 for your modifications and have limited your buying public to just a handful of people that would have the desire to have what you built and have the money to buy it. The only jeeps you see that somewhat retain their modified value are ones with a properly done V8 swap and still they loose on most of the other components. So you could throw $50K in a bad ass buggy (there is an hammers raced ultra 4 car for sale here for $45k) and have a JKU worth $25k or throw $50K in a JKU that will be worth $35K that is hard to sell. Putting a JK on 40's, tons, and coil overs is throwing money away no mater how you phrase the argument. Maybe you are worth millions and the money is not an issue, if so then good luck with the build and don't settle on 40's and 60's, do Dana 80's and some 54's with a 7.0 supercharged LS.



This is why I made the comment of you throwing away money. Take my advise or not, does not matter to me. I have just been there, done that.


Logic

Take that logic out of here.
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post #25 of 31 Old 04-30-2017, 03:08 PM
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You will need a set of spacers that Raceline sells for the Cooper's. The Cooper has a pretty thick bead...not as thick as a PitBull but close.
Thanks
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