Rock Krawler Mid Arm 2.5 X-Factor question - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 4Likes
  • 1 Post By ALASHA
  • 1 Post By Rb6700
  • 1 Post By ALASHA
  • 1 Post By crf
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 12 Old 03-03-2017, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
crf
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: DFW TX
Age: 33
Posts: 3
Feedback: 0 reviews
Rock Krawler Mid Arm 2.5 X-Factor question

Ok, I'm planning on trading in my Chevy High Country in on a new JKU Rubicon in a few weeks. I'm currently planning my build and have just a couple of questions. I am planning on getting the RK mid arm 2.5 x factor lift and running 35's with flat fenders. I know I will need to regear but will there be anything else I need to do to the jeep? I'm specifically wondering about any drive train modifications which i may or may not need to plan for. I'm a pipeline inspector and will be running my jeep off road almost every day for work and then playing a bit on the weekends. I need my vehicle to be as bulletproof as possible due to the nature of my job and would rather get it right the first time rather than waiting for stuff to break before upgrading. This will be my first jeep and my first lifted vehicle so my knowledge is limited to the internet reserach i've been able to do. As a total noob, your input will certainly be appreciated!
crf is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 12 Old 03-03-2017, 03:23 PM
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Age: 36
Posts: 63
Feedback: 0 reviews

Get a new front drive shaft and request 4.10 from the dealership and you should be fine. Also Mopar makes a lift kit that they can install for you and avoid any hassle with warranty vs the RK kit. I'd also recommend axle reinforcement on the front

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Jkbroc is offline  
post #3 of 12 Old 03-03-2017, 04:08 PM
JKO Addict!
 
ALASHA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 8,220
Feedback: 0 reviews

You dont need to get driveshafts on a JKU with an RK 2.5" lift. The stock shafts will do just fine.

Getting C gussets is always a safe upgrade and relatively cheap.

Also you will need to figure out bump stops which are included if you get one of the x factor kits with RK's shocks
crf likes this.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by ALASHA; 03-03-2017 at 04:10 PM.
ALASHA is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 12 Old 03-03-2017, 05:59 PM
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Age: 36
Posts: 63
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by ALASHA View Post
You dont need to get driveshafts on a JKU with an RK 2.5" lift. The stock shafts will do just fine.

Getting C gussets is always a safe upgrade and relatively cheap.

Also you will need to figure out bump stops which are included if you get one of the x factor kits with RK's shocks
If you disconnect with 2.5" lift you rub the boot off your front driveshaft at full droop


Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Jkbroc is offline  
post #5 of 12 Old 03-03-2017, 06:49 PM
Granite Guru
 
Rb6700's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 265
Feedback: 0 reviews

Here are my thoughts. I don't know how deep your pockets are but if your like most people your going to need to build it in stages. The rk kit is a good kit the only additional part I would get is a jks rear track bar location bracket. It is my personal opinion that it's just a better piece than the on that comes with the kit. Gearing I'd go with 4:56's. Now depending on your preference your going to need a locker for the front, do this with the gear change. Now depending on you pocket book you can either do an axle truss or axle sleeves at the same time. A must is some type of skid plate for the oil pan and transmission. Now here are the rest of the stuff that will need to be replaced as cash allows. Chrome molly axles front and rear, diff covers, front drive shaft and rear. Oh and a rear locker I would do at the time of the gear change. Your going to need wheels with the tires unless you want to use wheel spacers with your stock wheels. And some type of programmer to reprogram the computer. Good luck with your build.

Pissing off my wife since way back
crf likes this.
Rb6700 is offline  
post #6 of 12 Old 03-03-2017, 07:53 PM
JKO Addict!
 
ALASHA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 8,220
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jkbroc View Post
If you disconnect with 2.5" lift you rub the boot off your front driveshaft at full droop


Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Yep the boot wont last but the driveshaft will without it. No need to drop another 1K+ at this point for a pair of driveshafts (or ~500 for just the front if that was where you were going with it).

Disclaimer:
Prices may vary depending on who you go with.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by ALASHA; 03-03-2017 at 07:58 PM.
ALASHA is offline  
post #7 of 12 Old 03-03-2017, 08:06 PM
JKO Addict!
 
ALASHA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 8,220
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rb6700 View Post
Here are my thoughts. I don't know how deep your pockets are but if your like most people your going to need to build it in stages. The rk kit is a good kit the only additional part I would get is a jks rear track bar location bracket. It is my personal opinion that it's just a better piece than the on that comes with the kit. Gearing I'd go with 4:56's. Now depending on your preference your going to need a locker for the front, do this with the gear change. Now depending on you pocket book you can either do an axle truss or axle sleeves at the same time. A must is some type of skid plate for the oil pan and transmission. Now here are the rest of the stuff that will need to be replaced as cash allows. Chrome molly axles front and rear, diff covers, front drive shaft and rear. Oh and a rear locker I would do at the time of the gear change. Your going to need wheels with the tires unless you want to use wheel spacers with your stock wheels. And some type of programmer to reprogram the computer. Good luck with your build.

Pissing off my wife since way back
OP said he was leaning towards a Rubicon so he should be getting lockers right from the factory.

Curious why you like the JKS bracket over RK?

You will need some sort of programmer to adjust for tire size.

35s arent that big of a jump. As JKBroc said, I think you can get away with 4.10s so order it with them and see how you like it. If its horrible for you, then jump to 4.56

The need for engine/trans skid plates and upgraded axles really depends on what you consider "playing on the weekends." I got away with a lot (and I mean a lot) on 37s running factory shafts. In fact, the only thing that forced me the upgrade the rear shafts was sliding sideways into a curb during a snow storm. The front shafts never got damaged but my front axle was sleeved and gusseted. Again these upgrades will depend on your level of playing but I wouldnt put these in the must do category right off the bat.

Just the opinions of another shmuck on the interwebz.
crf likes this.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
ALASHA is offline  
post #8 of 12 Old 03-03-2017, 08:19 PM
Granite Guru
 
Rb6700's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 265
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by ALASHA View Post
OP said he was leaning towards a Rubicon so he should be getting lockers right from the factory.

Curious why you like the JKS bracket over RK?

You will need some sort of programmer to adjust for tire size.

35s arent that big of a jump. As JKBroc said, I think you can get away with 4.10s so order it with them and see how you like it. If its horrible for you, then jump to 4.56

The need for engine/trans skid plates and upgraded axles really depends on what you consider "playing on the weekends." I got away with a lot (and I mean a lot) on 37s running factory shafts. In fact, the only thing that forced me the upgrade the rear shafts was sliding sideways into a curb during a snow storm. The front shafts never got damaged but my front axle was sleeved and gusseted. Again these upgrades will depend on your level of playing but I wouldnt put these in the must do category right off the bat.

Just the opinions of another shmuck on the interwebz.
My bad I mist have missed reading he was looking at a Rubicon. New rubicons come with 3:73. 4:10 are now an option. Yes you can get away with not having a lot of that crap. I don't know how he wheels but he was asking about reliability and those parts are a good insurance policy to have. I stand behind having a skid plate as a must have for any kind of wheeling. There are only 6 bolts that hold the Trans pan on, you just tap that pan on a rock and you'll have problems.


Pissing off my wife since way back
Rb6700 is offline  
post #9 of 12 Old 03-03-2017, 09:44 PM
Rock God
 
ChuckTheRipper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Chester, WV
Age: 26
Posts: 920
Feedback: 0 reviews

That's only if he gets a lame automatic.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
ChuckTheRipper is online now  
post #10 of 12 Old 03-04-2017, 03:45 AM
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Age: 38
Posts: 485
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jkbroc View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALASHA View Post
You dont need to get driveshafts on a JKU with an RK 2.5" lift. The stock shafts will do just fine.

Getting C gussets is always a safe upgrade and relatively cheap.

Also you will need to figure out bump stops which are included if you get one of the x factor kits with RK's shocks
If you disconnect with 2.5" lift you rub the boot off your front driveshaft at full droop


Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
That totally depends how long your shocks are
CrazyLarry is offline  
post #11 of 12 Old 03-04-2017, 06:07 AM
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Age: 36
Posts: 63
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyLarry View Post
That totally depends how long your shocks are
If you get the shock lengths recommended from RK, disconnect and have a "lame automatic" you rip the boot. How long it last depends on your wheeling.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Jkbroc is offline  
post #12 of 12 Old 03-04-2017, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
crf
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: DFW TX
Age: 33
Posts: 3
Feedback: 0 reviews

Thanks for the info guys! For what it's worth my pockets are fairly deep and I can do pretty much everything all at once. I'm planning on getting a 6 speed manual for what its worth. My "playing" on the weekend will be what I consider moderate. I'll definitely be doing the sleeve/gussets when I regear. Already planning on skid plates, wheels tires, rockers, programmer, winch, etc. I'll definitely look into some differential covers as well.
Rb6700 likes this.
crf is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome