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post #1 of 10 Old 02-05-2017, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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New purchase question

New to jeep world, my wife is making me come over

Looking at building a princess rig, wanting 35's , good driving and fully loaded. Not wanting over road abilities. She is going be coming from a 13 Acura MDX, so it is going to be a big change!

First questions, are there any interior differences between Sahara and unlimited?
Will 3.73 be good enough to handle the 35's?
What is the smoothest lift kit? Is 2.5" enough for 35's?
Thanks
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post #2 of 10 Old 02-05-2017, 07:04 AM
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Unlimited is a description of the wheelbase. A JK is a 2 door. A JK Unlimited (JKU) is a 4 door.

Sahara is the prim and proper luxury model, Rubicon is the burly off-road model, Sport is the blank slate and most common.

You can outfit a Rubicon to be as comfy as a Sahara, or as bare as a base Sport.

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post #3 of 10 Old 02-05-2017, 07:08 AM
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3.73 will suffice for 35" tires assuming we are talking the 2012+ 3.6L Pentastar.

Mopar has a very nice 2" lift that you can have dealer install, with that its less likely that you'll have warranty issues down the road.

Get the Max Care Lifetime warranty for $2600 from Tom. Most dealers are going to try to get you into it for around $3500-$4000.

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2014 JK Willys, 37x13.5-18 STT Pro, 3.5" RK with 1.25 body lift, 28" Fox 2.0 IFP, Ruff Stuff Tie Rod, Synergy Trackbar/Bracket/Sector Bracket, WTO Ram Assist, EVO RockStar Rear Brackets, ProRock 44U, RCV/Ten Factory shafts/E-Locker, Synergy Balls, Factory Rear LSD, 12K LB X2O Gen 2 Comp, SB SRC Front/Body Armor Rear bumpers, RR and RE armor, Adams Shafts, 4.88 Yukon Gears. My toy.


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post #4 of 10 Old 02-05-2017, 07:14 AM
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The unlimited just means that it's the 4 door model instead of the traditional Wrangler that's 2 doors.

Sahara is a trim level for the Wrangler. There are basically 3 trim levels. Sport which is the base, Sahara is fully loaded, Rubicon which is upgraded off-road capability that has more standard amenities then the Sport but can be optioned with everything that the Sahara has.

All that info is available on Jeep.com
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post #5 of 10 Old 02-05-2017, 09:37 AM
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Sahara has the nicely painted fenders. If you go with that, 35s, a mild lift and never go off road, you'll be fine.

When I say off road, I mean "never flex the suspension beyond anything you will encounter on the pavement."
One trip through a drainage ditch or other seemingly simple and non-threatening obstacle and you'll wish you didn't have those nice fenders cuz, like a genie granting your wish, you won't have those fenders as the tires will start ripping them from the body. This can be avoided with due diligence on your part concerning the tire/wheel/lift combination you choose. Given that, a true 35" tire is sure to be a problem with a mild lift, 2.5". A tire "called" a 35, like a 315/70, likely won't be an issue, depending on the wheel. You will need either wheels or spacers to run 35s. That size tire needs to be moved away from the frame/suspension in order to allow full steering and suspension articulation abilities.

Having said all that, I'm a little confused by this...
"Looking at building a princess rig, wanting 35's , good driving and fully loaded. Not wanting over road abilities."
Fully loaded with OEM options or fully loaded with off roading options?
Good driving off road? cuz "Not wanting over road abilities" is either an auto-correct typo or you're not concerned about street handling characteristics, which would be a mistake.
A Wrangler is as far from a Mazda as you can get when looking at SUV capabilities. The learning curve will be steep and can be dangerous if you think you can just throw it into a turn like you could with the Mazda. There's no pushing a Wrangler to perform on the street without consequences.

Now, the most important question I have is, manual or automatic?
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post #6 of 10 Old 03-01-2017, 11:07 AM
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Can you afford the rubicon? If so, the bigger Dana 44 front axle housing will hold up better to 35's. You can option 4.10 gears which will be better than 3.73's.

Sahara has the painted fenders (I don't like 'em), and silver covers on the bumpers.

You can outfit a Sport S with power windows and mirrors. Connectivity is nice for Bluetooth and better display in the speedo. I really like the Alpine audio upgrade too.

If you get 3.21 gears, you'll have to regear it when you go 35's.

For a non-off-road lift, you can get a teraflex budget boost and shocks, or EVO levelling kit. No need for the full Mopar kit, which I think is over priced.
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post #7 of 10 Old 03-01-2017, 11:32 AM
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New purchase question

Quote:
Originally Posted by zimm View Post
...For a non-off-road lift, you can get a teraflex budget boost and shocks, or EVO levelling kit. No need for the full Mopar kit, which I think is over priced.
Get the performance budget boost with the shock extensions & rear trac bar bracket & you can wheel with best.

I have had this on my Rubicon since early 2014 & the jeep can wheel with the best. I used the money I saved on the lift on tires & protection. In 2015, I added C gussets & last year I added adjustable front lower control arms.



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Last edited by Dirtysocks; 03-01-2017 at 11:34 AM.
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post #8 of 10 Old 03-01-2017, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zimm View Post
Can you afford the rubicon? If so, the bigger Dana 44 front axle housing will hold up better to 35's. You can option 4.10 gears which will be better than 3.73's.
Correction, The Dana 44 (Rubicon) housing is the same exact housing as the Dana 30 aside from the Dana 44 gears and slightly larger center casting to fit them. There is absolutely nothing about the Rubicon 44 housing that was "beefed up" or improved over the base model Dana 30 housing. It (the Dana 44) has a thin/weak center casting, small and weak tubing axle tubes, same cast C's, same ball joints, same wheel bearings, same everything.


If a Sport Dana 30 would have bent, so would the Rubicon Dana 44. The only thing gained with the Rubi 44 is the gear size, but even that is somewhat hurt by a weak center casting that allows for casting deflection and gear failure where it otherwise would not have failed if an aftermarket housing was used.


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2014 JK Willys, 37x13.5-18 STT Pro, 3.5" RK with 1.25 body lift, 28" Fox 2.0 IFP, Ruff Stuff Tie Rod, Synergy Trackbar/Bracket/Sector Bracket, WTO Ram Assist, EVO RockStar Rear Brackets, ProRock 44U, RCV/Ten Factory shafts/E-Locker, Synergy Balls, Factory Rear LSD, 12K LB X2O Gen 2 Comp, SB SRC Front/Body Armor Rear bumpers, RR and RE armor, Adams Shafts, 4.88 Yukon Gears. My toy.


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post #9 of 10 Old 03-01-2017, 06:20 PM
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Making the jeep handle and perform on the road takes more then off road. Pay attention to the details and keep the lift low for fewer mods and issues that may arise.

Some build info here:
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post #10 of 10 Old 03-01-2017, 07:26 PM
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May seem simple but what about a 1-1/4" body lift, run a 305/70/17 tire instead of a true 35 and add probably 2" bumps. They make the brackets that move the rear bumper up. Why mess with the suspension for just wanting "the look"

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