Suspension help for my build and axle swap! - Advice Please - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 29 Old 12-30-2016, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 111
Feedback: 0 reviews
Suspension help for my build and axle swap! - Advice Please

Hello all. Jeep is soon going under the knife for major upgrades. I am trying to evaluate the proper suspension setup for my mixed street/trail use heavy/armored 2012 JKU (Supercharged 3.6)...

I have front/rear Dynatrac PR60s going in (high pinion front, FF low pinion rear) with caster corrected geometry, stock brackets in place, and a raised rear track bar mount. Will be doing PSC hydroassist and 1350 drivelines. Tires will be 37x13.5.

Current suspension components available are
-Teraflex front lower adjustable control arms
-JKS front adjustable track bar

Suspension stuff bought and waiting to go in
-Evo 4" plush coils
-Evo rock star rear shock mounts/skids for the D60
-Fox IFP 2.0 shocks (non-reservoir, non adjustable - longer length front/shorter rear but raised rear lower brackets/mounts)

This is my first bigger build and axle swap.
1) Will I need all 8 adjustable arms + rear track bar with this setup?
2) Is this the right time to be thinking long arm upgrade?

3) I already bought the evo coils and doubt I'd want to completely change directions + deal with the hassles for mounting solutions, but will I be majorly regretting not doing coil overs?
4) Will the fox IFP shocks be suitable for this application or should I be budgeting to do a shock upgrade with adjustable shocks?

Street ride quality is important to me as I have to drive 1-3 hours to wheel it including highway use.
I was considering Synergy, Currie, RK, or Evo long arms vs staying short arm + if I need a diff shock setup...

Thanks a ton all!
AdrockTT is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 29 Old 12-30-2016, 10:18 AM
JKO Addict!
 
thedirtman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: southwest reno, nv
Age: 51
Posts: 4,294
Feedback: 0 reviews

Since you ordered with he JK factory brackets you should be able to use your current arms. I would let suspension travel dictate a coil over direction. If 12" of less travel in the rear, a standard coil and shock should be fine. IF anything some coil overs up front might help handle the weight better in front and allow you to adjust the height to match what you have in the rear better.

If looking at long arms I would not have ordered brackets on the axle and most custom long arm kits out there are poorly designed because they rely on a the factory axle bracketry.

You should have got shocks with a reservoir that separates the oil and the nitrogen. I would also recommend compression adjusters on the shocks to fine tune the ride quality.

Have you got your axles yet?
I have a set of PR 60's that will be for sale shortly. Both high pinion 5.13 are 35 spline. Rear is set up for a 3 link or double triangulated 4 link and the front is a 3 link but easily converted into the standard 4 link.
Not sure where you are at though.

Some build info here:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


[COLOR="Red"]New to jeeps, check this link
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by thedirtman; 01-01-2017 at 05:45 PM.
thedirtman is offline  
post #3 of 29 Old 12-30-2016, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 111
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
Since you ordered with he JK factory brackets you should be able to use your current arms. I would let suspension travel dictate a coil over direction. If 12" of less travel in the rear, a standard coil and shock should be fine. IF anything some coil overs up front might help handle the weight better in front and allow you to adjust the height to match what you have in the rear better.

Iff looking at long arms I would not have ordered brackets not he axle and a custom long arm as most kits out there are poorly designed because they rely on a the factory axle bracketry.

You should have got shocks with a reservoir that separates the oil and the nitrogen. I would also recommend compression adjusters on the shocks to fine tune the ride quality.

Have you got your axles yet?
I have a set of PR 60's that will be for sale shortly. Both high pinion 5.13 are 35 spline. Rear is set up for a 3 link or double triangulated 4 link and the front is a 3 link but easily converted into the standard 4 link.
Not sure where you are at though.
Thank you for your post and help!

Axles are shipped and waiting at the shop...course right as your similar (and prob cheaper) set comes for sale :-\

I bought the Fox IFP shocks from a friend, though I guess I could sell them and move on to a reservoir shock setup. Which do you recommend I look at? King? Fox?

I'll keep in mind a coilover upgrade for the front in the near future. I have fender liners being powder coated (PS vented ones), which I assume won't work well w coils too...dang it!

The axles do have the factory brackets. I wouldn't know where/how to go about a custom long arm setup (I am not 100% the shop has experience with that or not - it is possible). Sounds like this would be an expensive proposition at this point?

Sounds like you're advising just sticking with my adjustable F-LCA and front track bar + stock arms then? No need for other adjustable short/mid arms or the upgrade to long arms?

Thanks again and pardon my ignorance (I'm from the sports car world )
AdrockTT is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 29 Old 12-30-2016, 11:06 AM
JKO Addict!
 
thedirtman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: southwest reno, nv
Age: 51
Posts: 4,294
Feedback: 0 reviews

Well at 4" of lift I typically recommend doing a drag link flip with a raised front axle track bar bracket to eliminate bump steer and you may need to get some rear adjustable arms to get your pinion angle where it needs to be.

I like Kings but you can get adjustable shocks from several sources like fox king or bilstien. I don't feel one is better then the other and it is really just a brand preference. The different manufacturers will have different options and different compressed and extended lengths. One may work better for you then another.

A long arm is not necessarily costly vs buying a kit but since you are looking at it now there would be more work because of bracket adjustments.

Good luck with the build.

Some build info here:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


[COLOR="Red"]New to jeeps, check this link
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
thedirtman is offline  
post #5 of 29 Old 12-30-2016, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 111
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
Well at 4" of lift I typically recommend doing a drag link flip with a raised front axle track bar bracket to eliminate bump steer and you may need to get some rear adjustable arms to get your pinion angle where it needs to be.

I like Kings but you can get adjustable shocks from several sources like fox king or bilstien. I don't feel one is better then the other and it is really just a brand preference. The different manufacturers will have different options and different compressed and extended lengths. One may work better for you then another.

A long arm is not necessarily costly vs buying a kit but since you are looking at it now there would be more work because of bracket adjustments.

Good luck with the build.
Dyna tells me that they do not advise a drag link flip given their (non-stock/OEM) mounting level/location for the drag link. I specifically asked about this concept issue and was told do not flip for my build/ride height. Is this bad info??

I believe both front/rear track bar brackets are adjustable (multiple positions to bolt in) and offer raised heights.

PSC seemed to think with the Hydroassist that bump steer wouldn't be a big issue. I know this can be a product of the separation from the track bar and drag link for the front steering, but Dyna also told me this should be within satisfactory spec.

I have tried to plan out all these details for steering and alignment, but seems I get more befuddled every time I analyze things...
AdrockTT is offline  
post #6 of 29 Old 12-30-2016, 12:10 PM
JKO Addict!
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: CT
Age: 41
Posts: 5,705
Feedback: 7 reviews

What knuckles are used?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
kjeeper10 is offline  
post #7 of 29 Old 12-30-2016, 12:49 PM
JKO Addict!
 
thedirtman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: southwest reno, nv
Age: 51
Posts: 4,294
Feedback: 0 reviews

You are likely going to be between 4.5-5" of actual lift once all said and one unless you have a really heavy jeep and bump steer is due to geometry plain a simple. You typically have to replace the track bar bracket on the axle to do the flip. Their track bar may not be tall enough to do this and is a reason they say no. I would run it like they have it set up and see how you like it. If it is not bad then leave it alone but if you don't like the bump steer and the amount of side to side axle shift you are going to experience then you can also flip the synergy drag link and just install a new raised bracket.

Like the rear the more level with the ground the bars are the better it will handle.

Some build info here:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


[COLOR="Red"]New to jeeps, check this link
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
thedirtman is offline  
post #8 of 29 Old 12-30-2016, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 111
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
What knuckles are used?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Here's the knuckles listed on the build:
Dynatrac Pro Series 60 Heavy Duty Nodular Iron Knuckle Kit, RH & LH, .652" Bottom-up Taper, Installed

I can include the full axle build sheet if it is helpful for guiding the current decisions? (Just don't want to clutter the thread)
AdrockTT is offline  
post #9 of 29 Old 12-30-2016, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 111
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
You are likely going to be between 4.5-5" of actual lift once all said and one unless you have a really heavy jeep and bump steer is due to geometry plain a simple. You typically have to replace the track bar bracket on the axle to do the flip. Their track bar may not be tall enough to do this and is a reason they say no. I would run it like they have it set up and see how you like it. If it is not bad then leave it alone but if you don't like the bump steer and the amount of side to side axle shift you are going to experience then you can also flip the synergy drag link and just install a new raised bracket.

Like the rear the more level with the ground the bars are the better it will handle.
My JKU is prob on the heavier side (steel skids, armor/fenders, sub box, supercharger, light bars, etc.). Evo coils "claim" to be a true 4", so I guess we'll see there...I'm hoping it is right near 4" due to garage clearance issues!

Here's the steering and track bar data from the build:
FRONT:
- Matched Housing Geometry, Pinion Angle, and Wheel Alignment for JK Suspension, Axle Width 68.5"
- Raised track bar mount w/RAM assist
-Steering Kit, Cross-Over Steering Package, Includes Tie Rod Assembly, Billet RH Steering Arm w/Factory JK Bottom-up Taper, & Steering Arm Mounting Hardware, Drag Link Sleeve, ***Reuse factory JK drag link***
REAR:
- High Track Bar Bracket
- Matched Housing Geometry and Pinion Angle for JK Suspension

Still sound like a drag link flip should be in back of my mind?
AdrockTT is offline  
post #10 of 29 Old 12-30-2016, 01:42 PM
JKO Addict!
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: CT
Age: 41
Posts: 5,705
Feedback: 7 reviews

So its already raised to match the track bar? A flip kit would put it even higher.




Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
kjeeper10 is offline  
post #11 of 29 Old 12-30-2016, 01:46 PM
JKO Addict!
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: CT
Age: 41
Posts: 5,705
Feedback: 7 reviews

Here you goName:  ImageUploadedByAG Free1483134381.458577.jpg
Views: 302
Size:  66.7 KB


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
kjeeper10 is offline  
post #12 of 29 Old 12-30-2016, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 111
Feedback: 0 reviews

kjeeper - appreciate the pic and your help. Is that pic of the high front track bar mount + a flipped drag link? It does look pretty high. I assume I should see how my setup lines up initially before going that route?
AdrockTT is offline  
post #13 of 29 Old 01-01-2017, 05:21 PM
JKO Addict!
 
terrahawk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 4,511
Garage
Feedback: 1 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrockTT View Post
I have fender liners being powder coated (PS vented ones), which I assume won't work well w coils too...dang it!
Just cut them to fir the coil towers, no big deal.

Pain heals, chicks dig scars, glory lasts forever.
terrahawk is offline  
post #14 of 29 Old 01-02-2017, 04:20 AM
Rock God
 
2Door's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 979
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrockTT View Post
Thank you for your post and help!



I'll keep in mind a coilover upgrade for the front in the near future. I have fender liners being powder coated (PS vented ones), which I assume won't work well w coils too...dang it!


Sounds like you're advising just sticking with my adjustable F-LCA and front track bar + stock arms then? No need for other adjustable short/mid arms or the upgrade to long arms?

Thanks again and pardon my ignorance (I'm from the sports car world )
My thoughts;

First point, yea, just cut those. JK's are pretty "figured out" as far as suspension arrangement goes, for what you intend on having, based on your posts, which is conventional. Dirtman has an incredibly wicked, custom, full bore JK. All of the advice is very, very sound. But for you, the coilovers up front can be added later, if you want. I'd slam it together with what you have and then go from there. Also, Rebel Offroad uses those liners all the time for their coilover setups. They just cut to fit.

You're putting like 17k in axles underneath your JK... I'd upgrade the arms. Especially the two rear sets. At that height, you're prooobably going to want to adjust the pinion angle to make that driveshaft happy, plus, the rear lower arms aren't strong. They bend. I've got stock lower arms on mine right now and I've bent 4 (I think) into a lazy J shape because of rocks. You're going pretty far from what is stock, some adjustability to dial in your new setup would go a long way.

2011 Sahara Tan 2dr Rubicon
Rock Krawler Stock Mod w/ Fox Evolution 2.0's - 36 X 12.5 X 15" Interco TSL's on Black Steel wheels - Rock Krawler track bars front and back - Poison Spyder Customs BFH front bumper w/ Brawler bar - Warn HS9500i winch w/ synthetic rope - Trail Head Deflators - Viair 440P Compressor Instagram: jeepethan
2Door is offline  
post #15 of 29 Old 01-02-2017, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 111
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by terrahawk View Post
Just cut them to fir the coil towers, no big deal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Door View Post
My thoughts;

First point, yea, just cut those. JK's are pretty "figured out" as far as suspension arrangement goes, for what you intend on having, based on your posts, which is conventional. Dirtman has an incredibly wicked, custom, full bore JK. All of the advice is very, very sound. But for you, the coilovers up front can be added later, if you want. I'd slam it together with what you have and then go from there. Also, Rebel Offroad uses those liners all the time for their coilover setups. They just cut to fit.

You're putting like 17k in axles underneath your JK... I'd upgrade the arms. Especially the two rear sets. At that height, you're prooobably going to want to adjust the pinion angle to make that driveshaft happy, plus, the rear lower arms aren't strong. They bend. I've got stock lower arms on mine right now and I've bent 4 (I think) into a lazy J shape because of rocks. You're going pretty far from what is stock, some adjustability to dial in your new setup would go a long way.
Thanks all!

I have the vented/mesh poison spyder liners - I'll have to get with the shop and be sure they can cut/modify these to work with coilovers...I assume with a little creative welding it is possible?

After more exhaustive reading, reflection on goals, etc. - I think I'm going to shop around for a coilover/long arm solution. This certainly seems like the time to "go all the way" given the rest of my build. I'd appreciate the height adjustability for both current garage height compromises and future tire options. Sounds ideal and worth the extra coin for both better on and off-road performance here. Hoping I can return/swap my brand new coils + sell off my barely used shocks, LCAs, etc. As much as I was hoping to be at the end of money hemorrhaging...I guess I'm still gushing cash to get this done right...

As far as coilovers and arms go - sounds like Evo has a good bolt on setup ready that prob matches my needs? Others look a bit more intrusive to install? Input here appreciated.

Stock exhaust is in place - I'd be willing to swap for a real advantaged setup to do so, but would def want to keep it quiet w/o any drone (again - highway tolerance)...
AdrockTT is offline  
post #16 of 29 Old 01-03-2017, 09:09 AM
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Age: 38
Posts: 485
Feedback: 0 reviews

with all that beef you're putting under there why are you not getting 40s?
CrazyLarry is offline  
post #17 of 29 Old 01-03-2017, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 111
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyLarry View Post
with all that beef you're putting under there why are you not getting 40s?
I can't fit 40s in my garage + have to drive 1-3 hours to wheel it (so the Toyo RT 37s will certainly be a more pleasant experience there...) I am thinking I may jump on a set of 40+" beadlocks to drag along before a more major expedition (like a Moab trip or similar).
AdrockTT is offline  
post #18 of 29 Old 01-03-2017, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 111
Feedback: 0 reviews

You guys are bad influences...

Just ordered front/rear full bolt on Evo coilover kits, evo long arms w brackets, and airbumps w mounts. Guess if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right!

I did verify with Dyna, Northridge, and Evo that drag link flip not required/recommended on my PR 60 front axle/Dyna steering unless it's an unusual circumstance...
AdrockTT is offline  
post #19 of 29 Old 01-03-2017, 07:57 PM
JKO Addict!
 
thedirtman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: southwest reno, nv
Age: 51
Posts: 4,294
Feedback: 0 reviews

Damn, I could have saved you about a $1000 over buying that kit

Some build info here:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


[COLOR="Red"]New to jeeps, check this link
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
thedirtman is offline  
post #20 of 29 Old 01-03-2017, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 111
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
Damn, I could have saved you about a $1000 over buying that kit
How's that? I didn't know you had that or a similar suspension setup for sale?

I do think I got a decent deal and was able to return the overlapping parts that won't work...

Btw i do appreciate your obviously well versed input and your JK is def an inspiration!
AdrockTT is offline  
post #21 of 29 Old 01-04-2017, 02:51 AM
JKO Addict!
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: CT
Age: 41
Posts: 5,705
Feedback: 7 reviews

Hes said it before. You can get similar mounts for less from other manufacturers. I believe the CO's as well.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
tapcola likes this.

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
kjeeper10 is offline  
post #22 of 29 Old 01-04-2017, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 111
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Hes said it before. You can get similar mounts for less from other manufacturers. I believe the CO's as well.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
I did want their valving and king shock setup, which from my understanding they won't sell separately (unavailable from other king dealers unless through them, or from what the retailers told me). W my discount and return needs, I think it was fair priced.

Which other brands offer a similar setup, esp the bolt in coilovers?
AdrockTT is offline  
post #23 of 29 Old 01-04-2017, 08:59 AM
JKO Addict!
 
thedirtman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: southwest reno, nv
Age: 51
Posts: 4,294
Feedback: 0 reviews

"their" valving is nothing special and is thrown out there as a marketing tool to convince people are getting something special. You are not. Just a generic JK valving. Their kits tend to run on the high side as well.

They have nice mounts but you can save a ton off buying them from a fabrication supply like Ruff stuff or ballistic. Every king shock is custom built so you can easily get a more custom valve and coil set up from someone like Filthymotorsports or the guy from SOCAL, I forget his company.
I think Filthy is the largest seller of king shocks and if you provide them some details such as weight of the corners, up/down ratio's/ and what you are doing with the jeep they will set you up with the proper coils and valving. With EVO everyone gets the same part no matter if you have a heavy 4 door or a light 2 door. I would not waste the money on their rear coil over set up either and just stick with conventional coils and some good shocks. Either something with adjustable compression or a true bypass.

Some build info here:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


[COLOR="Red"]New to jeeps, check this link
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
thedirtman is offline  
post #24 of 29 Old 01-04-2017, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 111
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
"their" valving is nothing special and is thrown out there as a marketing tool to convince people are getting something special. You are not. Just a generic JK valving. Their kits tend to run on the high side as well.

They have nice mounts but you can save a ton off buying them from a fabrication supply like Ruff stuff or ballistic. Every king shock is custom built so you can easily get a more custom valve and coil set up from someone like Filthymotorsports or the guy from SOCAL, I forget his company.
I think Filthy is the largest seller of king shocks and if you provide them some details such as weight of the corners, up/down ratio's/ and what you are doing with the jeep they will set you up with the proper coils and valving. With EVO everyone gets the same part no matter if you have a heavy 4 door or a light 2 door. I would not waste the money on their rear coil over set up either and just stick with conventional coils and some good shocks. Either something with adjustable compression or a true bypass.
Where was this post earlier?! Giving me major buyer's remorse right now...

I think my stuff is just cued for shipping. I guess I'll give filthy motorsports a call tomorrow, ask about some pricing, and consider cancelling/returning the rear coilover setup? I need to go through the pricing differences (including swapping over my current coil setup) and look at the difference in price to value here...I am worried I don't have access to the fabrication/design skill set that you do (even w local shop help).

Maybe you can PM me your cell and we can chat a bit about the plan (if you wouldn't mind).
AdrockTT is offline  
post #25 of 29 Old 01-05-2017, 09:14 PM
Rock God
 
Tweak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Whidbey Island, WA
Age: 31
Posts: 570
Feedback: 0 reviews

Screw EVO, build it yourself. This is like $800 in coilovers and a couple hundred in brackets and I promise you it performs better. Plus it's not bolt on so it is packaged so much better. Oh, and 14" shocks.


OMG guys look, EVO has HD springs for their coilovers to get more lift. I am concerned.
https://www.offroadevolution.com/pro...gs-by-evo-mfg/

Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
"their" valving is nothing special and is thrown out there as a marketing tool to convince people are getting something special. You are not. Just a generic JK valving. Their kits tend to run on the high side as well.

They have nice mounts but you can save a ton off buying them from a fabrication supply like Ruff stuff or ballistic. Every king shock is custom built so you can easily get a more custom valve and coil set up from someone like Filthymotorsports or the guy from SOCAL, I forget his company.
I think Filthy is the largest seller of king shocks and if you provide them some details such as weight of the corners, up/down ratio's/ and what you are doing with the jeep they will set you up with the proper coils and valving. With EVO everyone gets the same part no matter if you have a heavy 4 door or a light 2 door. I would not waste the money on their rear coil over set up either and just stick with conventional coils and some good shocks. Either something with adjustable compression or a true bypass.
That is what this generation of jeep people want. They want to be able to say they have coilovers, without actually doing the work. It took me 4 spring rates to get it right. There is no way a company can sell a bolt on kit for every JK that will perform correctly. My 2 door weighs more than a stock 4 door! I blame eddie

Billet 2013 2 door
Dana 60 front, 14 Bolt rear, ARB's, 5.38's, 40" sticky Trepadors, 3 link front and rear, 14" Sway-a-Way coilovers, Tom Woods 1310 front, Adams 1350 rear, PSC Hydro assist

Last edited by Tweak; 01-05-2017 at 09:21 PM.
Tweak is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome