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post #1 of 24 Old 10-27-2016, 01:55 AM Thread Starter
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Best lift for 2013 JKU?

What's up fellas! I'm Rafael and I reside sunny San Diego, CA born and raised! I own a 2013 JKU and I'm planning to put a lift on it. What is the best brand and size lift option???? Also what brand tires??? After doing my research, I've narrowed it to my top 3 brand lift and inch size. AEV 4.5", TeraFlex 4", and Rubicon Express 3.5". AEV being my #1. I want to run 37x13.50r17 tires but I'll settle for 35x12.50r17. I use my jeep as a 100% daily driver and no off-roading at all. I'm only looking to upgrade my jeep for looks and around town! I'm new to the jeep world and open to all ideas, options and opinions!

Thanks

RG
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post #2 of 24 Old 10-27-2016, 02:42 AM
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A 2.5" lift can clear 35's. Use the search function and you'll see that Teraflex is a popular option.
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post #3 of 24 Old 10-27-2016, 05:09 AM
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I would look hard at RockKrawler. They have almost every conceivable combination of height and hardware, mid arm, long arm, 3 link, and everything is upgrade-able. Solid arms, not tubes. Excellent service and warranty.

On each lift description, they give you tire size info for oem fenders, and some for flat fenders.

Rock Krawler Suspension

X-Factor

I'm running all RK, 40's on 3.5" on full width axles.


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post #4 of 24 Old 10-27-2016, 06:05 AM
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I'm running a 2.5" teraflex coil lift and it's been great for over 100K miles. I would stay at 2.5" if I were you.

If I was doing it again I would go metal cloak.
Metal Cloak Game Changer w Fox shocks

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post #5 of 24 Old 10-27-2016, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baseballchamp619 View Post
What's up fellas! I'm Rafael and I reside sunny San Diego, CA born and raised! I own a 2013 JKU and I'm planning to put a lift on it. What is the best brand and size lift option???? Also what brand tires??? After doing my research, I've narrowed it to my top 3 brand lift and inch size. AEV 4.5", TeraFlex 4", and Rubicon Express 3.5". AEV being my #1. I want to run 37x13.50r17 tires but I'll settle for 35x12.50r17. I use my jeep as a 100% daily driver and no off-roading at all. I'm only looking to upgrade my jeep for looks and around town! I'm new to the jeep world and open to all ideas, options and opinions!

Thanks

RG
This is really a no brainer. Get the AEV 3.5" lift and run the 37s. (get what you want, don't "settle".) There is a video somewhere showing a JKUR with an AEV lift kit going around a race track. The handling is incredible.

Some years ago I was fortunate enough to have a similar experience. I got to ride along with the ex-Chrysler suspension engineer who worked for AEV and designed the AEV suspension lift kits for the JKs. He also happens to be a pretty damn good race car driver. We found some desolate back roads and what he did with that JKUR was almost beyond belief. He explained to me how the lift kit he designed actually corrected some of the short comings of the stock JK suspension.

If you are going to be 100% on road, I don't see how there is even any discussion here. The AEV kits are incredible on road. Now if you are going off road, that brings other factors into play and other vendors into the mix. But for your application, if you had been in the passenger seat of that JKUR with Jim driving, we would not be having this discussion. You would have done what I did, and simply bought the AEV kit. (And I wheel the shit out of it and it does very well on the trails too!)

eidt: PS Get the AEV wheels as well. They have the correct offset that is designed to work with the lift kit. And run 37 x 12.5 x 17 tires. 13.5s are too wide.
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post #6 of 24 Old 10-27-2016, 08:46 AM
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I would agree with the AEV for a daily driver. That or use one of the other drop bracket offered and run the 3" coils of your choice. Are you planning on re-gearing since it is a daily driver.

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post #7 of 24 Old 10-28-2016, 12:42 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nucleophile View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baseballchamp619 View Post
What's up fellas! I'm Rafael and I reside sunny San Diego, CA born and raised! I own a 2013 JKU and I'm planning to put a lift on it. What is the best brand and size lift option???? Also what brand tires??? After doing my research, I've narrowed it to my top 3 brand lift and inch size. AEV 4.5", TeraFlex 4", and Rubicon Express 3.5". AEV being my #1. I want to run 37x13.50r17 tires but I'll settle for 35x12.50r17. I use my jeep as a 100% daily driver and no off-roading at all. I'm only looking to upgrade my jeep for looks and around town! I'm new to the jeep world and open to all ideas, options and opinions!

Thanks

RG
This is really a no brainer. Get the AEV 3.5" lift and run the 37s. (get what you want, don't "settle".) There is a video somewhere showing a JKUR with an AEV lift kit going around a race track. The handling is incredible.

Some years ago I was fortunate enough to have a similar experience. I got to ride along with the ex-Chrysler suspension engineer who worked for AEV and designed the AEV suspension lift kits for the JKs. He also happens to be a pretty damn good race car driver. We found some desolate back roads and what he did with that JKUR was almost beyond belief. He explained to me how the lift kit he designed actually corrected some of the short comings of the stock JK suspension.

If you are going to be 100% on road, I don't see how there is even any discussion here. The AEV kits are incredible on road. Now if you are going off road, that brings other factors into play and other vendors into the mix. But for your application, if you had been in the passenger seat of that JKUR with Jim driving, we would not be having this discussion. You would have done what I did, and simply bought the AEV kit. (And I wheel the shit out of it and it does very well on the trails too!)

eidt: PS Get the AEV wheels as well. They have the correct offset that is designed to work with the lift kit. And run 37 x 12.5 x 17 tires. 13.5s are too wide.

Yes, I've heard many good things about AEV!! I'm still deciding on which brand lift but most likely I'll end up buy the AEV!!!
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post #8 of 24 Old 10-28-2016, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
I would agree with the AEV for a daily driver. That or use one of the other drop bracket offered and run the 3" coils of your choice. Are you planning on re-gearing since it is a daily driver.

Yes I do plan to re-gear. I'm settling on 4.88. I wanted to get 5.13s but I figured 4.88 would be better since it works good for a daily driver
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post #9 of 24 Old 10-28-2016, 08:35 AM
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Welcome to JKO!

For your use the AEV fits the bill perfectly. Like the others said, buy 37s or you'll just end up buying tires twice. 90% of the members here are guilty of it... lol

We can help you with a full package if you're looking for a one-stop-shop!

Marcus


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post #10 of 24 Old 10-29-2016, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RiverCityOffroad View Post
Welcome to JKO!

For your use the AEV fits the bill perfectly. Like the others said, buy 37s or you'll just end up buying tires twice. 90% of the members here are guilty of it... lol

We can help you with a full package if you're looking for a one-stop-shop!

Marcus

Thanks Marcus!!! So what you mean about running 37s is to not buy them??? So 35s would be best?
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post #11 of 24 Old 10-29-2016, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baseballchamp619 View Post
What's up fellas! I'm Rafael and I reside sunny San Diego, CA born and raised! I own a 2013 JKU and I'm planning to put a lift on it. What is the best brand and size lift option???? Also what brand tires??? After doing my research, I've narrowed it to my top 3 brand lift and inch size. AEV 4.5", TeraFlex 4", and Rubicon Express 3.5". AEV being my #1. I want to run 37x13.50r17 tires but I'll settle for 35x12.50r17. I use my jeep as a 100% daily driver and no off-roading at all. I'm only looking to upgrade my jeep for looks and around town! I'm new to the jeep world and open to all ideas, options and opinions!

Thanks

RG
Do your homework.... Lots of different stuff being pushed on the boards for the wrong reasons IMO.
Make sure your looking at a kit with a LEGIT HIGH STEER KIT if you are going to 3+ and 37's.

We do some DEEP deals direct off the board, shoot me an email if you want more info.

[email protected]

Synergy Stage 4 Long Arm W/ 4.5" front springs / 3.0" rear springs clearing 42"X20" BFG Krawlers

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post #12 of 24 Old 10-29-2016, 03:11 PM
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Do your homework.... Lots of different stuff being pushed on the boards for the wrong reasons IMO.
[/IMG]
Not sure if that little "stick the knife in the back and walk away" jab was directed at me or not, but it sure felt like it was. And since I provided the most detailed recommendation, I assume it was.

I don't know what you are implying about "wrong reasons". I just try to share ACTUAL real life experiences with various products. I have run other manufacturers lifts and have had issues with them. But I don't come on here and bash them. I have run AEV lifts on JKs from 2007 on forward. I have installed many on friends jeeps. Nothing but positive results.

I don't have any affiliation with or allegiance to AEV. In fact, I spent almost $1,000 fixing a problem with their early hemi conversion kits that they finally admitted to, but didn't stand behind. It still chaps my ass.

I run some of your products on my Jeep and recommend them to friends. In fact, just last week I installed one of your tie rods on a friend's jeep.

As you can tell, I didn't appreciate your insinuation that I have some ulterior motive.
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post #13 of 24 Old 10-29-2016, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Baseballchamp619 View Post
Yes I do plan to re-gear. I'm settling on 4.88. I wanted to get 5.13s but I figured 4.88 would be better since it works good for a daily driver
I have a 2012 on 37x14x17 with 4.88s and have the automatic. I went with 4.88 for 2 reasons; I drive to the trails (1-2hrs for every place I can even mildly wheel), 2nd my D30 has a Detroit Locker and I wheel pretty hard so 5.13s would make the teeth on the pinion gear really small (a higher likely hood of breaking my D30 while wheeling with 37s). At times I wish I would have done the 5.13s but then I remember that I can just manually hold a lower gear so it doesn't up shift or just put it in 4Low... So since you're staying on the street and not locking you would be fine with 5.13s. 5.13s would be nice if you drive in town mostly since it would be peppier, but you will not mind the 4.88s and will enjoy the better MPG on the highway. Determine your driving style and how much city vs highway driving you will be doing, that will dictate which is better for you.

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Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
I would agree with the AEV for a daily driver. That or use one of the other drop bracket offered and run the 3" coils of your choice. Are you planning on re-gearing since it is a daily driver.
I agree, for your use any lift with control arm drop brackets is perfect. For you Long Arm Lifts would be a waste of money. As for AEV, I don't know anyone running their full kit but many I know do have AEV parts. For a DD many people like the RockKrawler and MetalCloak springs and how they ride. The 5100 shocks are good but some prefer something not as firm on the street. Shock selection makes a difference in ride quality but its a big personal preference thing. I have always driven heavy trucks and performance cars. My Jeep rides great to me and my wife but my brother who has driven nothing but compact cars and Buicks thinks it rides rough.

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Originally Posted by Nucleophile View Post
Get the AEV wheels as well. They have the correct offset that is designed to work with the lift kit. And run 37 x 12.5 x 17 tires. 13.5s are too wide.
Yes having the correct offset is key. Make sure the wheels you go with have the correct offset for the size tire you're running.
I disagree that 13.5 is too wide though. We each have our reasons for wanting wide tires either it be looks or that is just what the width that the model of tire we wanted came in for a 37 (the latter being my case). When you do go wider than 12.5 though you run into some things; most offest for wheels listed are based off the 12.5 so proper offset for a 13.5 is different an limits you wheel options (or force you to run spacers upfront), with the wider tires you will most likely have to adjust the steering stops because the rear of the tires will rub on the frame at full steering lock (but how often on the street do you turn the wheel all the way till it stops in either direction?)


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post #14 of 24 Old 10-29-2016, 05:53 PM
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Thanks Marcus!!! So what you mean about running 37s is to not buy them??? So 35s would be best?
Marcus means 35s are a waste of money. So many people buy them and after only a short time upgrade to 37s. Correct Marcus?


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post #15 of 24 Old 10-29-2016, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Bumpstick View Post
I have a 2012 on 37x14x17 with 4.88s and have the automatic. I went with 4.88 for 2 reasons; I drive to the trails (1-2hrs for every place I can even mildly wheel), 2nd my D30 has a Detroit Locker and I wheel pretty hard so 5.13s would make the teeth on the pinion gear really small (a higher likely hood of breaking my D30 while wheeling with 37s). At times I wish I would have done the 5.13s but then I remember that I can just manually hold a lower gear so it doesn't up shift or just put it in 4Low... So since you're staying on the street and not locking you would be fine with 5.13s. 5.13s would be nice if you drive in town mostly since it would be peppier, but you will not mind the 4.88s and will enjoy the better MPG on the highway. Determine your driving style and how much city vs highway driving you will be doing, that will dictate which is better for you.



I agree, for your use any lift with control arm drop brackets is perfect. For you Long Arm Lifts would be a waste of money. As for AEV, I don't know anyone running their full kit but many I know do have AEV parts. For a DD many people like the RockKrawler and MetalCloak springs and how they ride. The 5100 shocks are good but some prefer something not as firm on the street. Shock selection makes a difference in ride quality but its a big personal preference thing. I have always driven heavy trucks and performance cars. My Jeep rides great to me and my wife but my brother who has driven nothing but compact cars and Buicks thinks it rides rough.



Yes having the correct offset is key. Make sure the wheels you go with have the correct offset for the size tire you're running.
I disagree that 13.5 is too wide though. We each have our reasons for wanting wide tires either it be looks or that is just what the width that the model of tire we wanted came in for a 37 (the latter being my case). When you do go wider than 12.5 though you run into some things; most offest for wheels listed are based off the 12.5 so proper offset for a 13.5 is different an limits you wheel options (or force you to run spacers upfront), with the wider tires you will most likely have to adjust the steering stops because the rear of the tires will rub on the frame at full steering lock (but how often on the street do you turn the wheel all the way till it stops in either direction?)
You make a valid point about the 5100 shocks being on the stiff side. I like it, but then I also drive sports cars that are very stiff. So to me it feels normal. I do have one friend who changed out the 5100s for a softer shock and he likes the more plush ride over the firmer ride of the 5100s. Something to consider.

And you are right about offset being the key. But it is not just about keeping the tires off the frame. Changing the offset will impact the scrub radius. Now for a Jeep that does both trail and road duties, there are compromises that need to be made. But for something that is 100% road use, I think the scrub radius should be considered as it impacts the handling of the vehicle. I am pretty sure that the AEV wheels are designed with a specific offset to hit the scrub radius sweet spot. Of course, that too is a personal preference. Some people like a ton of caster and others not. Same with scrub radius.

The point I was trying to make was that AEV sells a complete "package" - lift and wheels designed to work in unison. For someone without a lot of background and experience with what works and what doesn't work, it simplifies things. At least you know if you get an AEV 3.5 or 4.5 lift, buy AEV wheels and 37 x 12.5 tires, someone has thought about how they all work together. That is the point I was trying to make. Again, it all depends on the value you place on handling dynamics over other things. And its a jeep - maybe handling dynamics isn't a concern at all...............
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post #16 of 24 Old 10-30-2016, 05:15 AM
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You can also check out the MetalCloak Overland lifts. They are similar to AEV with control arm drop brackets but I personally like their coils and shocks better. I have run both with a AEV on my 2012 and now Metalcloak on my 17 and prefer the ride of the MC with their rock sport shocks.


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Aev, MC and JKS make comparable kits using drop brackets.



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post #18 of 24 Old 10-30-2016, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nucleophile View Post
The point I was trying to make was that AEV sells a complete "package" - lift and wheels designed to work in unison. For someone without a lot of background and experience with what works and what doesn't work, it simplifies things. At least you know if you get an AEV 3.5 or 4.5 lift, buy AEV wheels and 37 x 12.5 tires, someone has thought about how they all work together. That is the point I was trying to make. Again, it all depends on the value you place on handling dynamics over other things. And its a jeep - maybe handling dynamics isn't a concern at all...............
Complete packages from a well engineered company (Not from Rough Country and other "economic" companies) takes the guess work out of it. Well not really guess work but research, measuring, and trial. Personally I don't have a problem with that since my wants and needs are not the same as most other Jeepers (like with the shocks, what others may feel is a compromise I am used to or dont care and visa versa).... Its a Jeep its not something I'm going to Autocross, and they won't let me either I already tried Damn SCCA people discriminating on a JK on 33s at the time.


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post #19 of 24 Old 10-30-2016, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Nucleophile View Post
Not sure if that little "stick the knife in the back and walk away" jab was directed at me or not, but it sure felt like it was. And since I provided the most detailed recommendation, I assume it was.

I don't know what you are implying about "wrong reasons". I just try to share ACTUAL real life experiences with various products. I have run other manufacturers lifts and have had issues with them. But I don't come on here and bash them. I have run AEV lifts on JKs from 2007 on forward. I have installed many on friends jeeps. Nothing but positive results.

I don't have any affiliation with or allegiance to AEV. In fact, I spent almost $1,000 fixing a problem with their early hemi conversion kits that they finally admitted to, but didn't stand behind. It still chaps my ass.

I run some of your products on my Jeep and recommend them to friends. In fact, just last week I installed one of your tie rods on a friend's jeep.

As you can tell, I didn't appreciate your insinuation that I have some ulterior motive.
Chill man.... I wasn't really directing my reply specifically at you or this thread necessarily; it was more of just a general comment and message to the starter of the thread. Thank you to you and your friend for running some of my parts, I appreciate it.

On a side note... Not sure if BaseBallChampis looking to wheel his rig or not but if it is in your future I would not recommend control arm drop brackets. Control arm drop brackets are used, IMO, for 1 reason only... CO$T. The brackets are a decent alternative if you don't have the $ for adjustable arms but you should be aware of the draw backs. Control arm drop brackets will lower the suspension roll center height which will increase vehicle body roll and decrease performance on and off road. When lifting a vehicle it is important to increase the suspension roll center height to keep it as close the vehicle center of gravity as possible. The other issue is loos of vehicle ground clearance and that is pretty self explanatory.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpstick View Post
Marcus means 35s are a waste of money. So many people buy them and after only a short time upgrade to 37s. Correct Marcus?
YES.... This is a regular occurrence. I would add that I see a lot of guys able to go from 35's to 37's with just a flat fender modification (aftermarket or altering stock units). The bump stop spacers are a little more critical here than lift height IMO. 3" bump spacer will keep 37's clear with flat or most aftermarket fenders while 4" are required to clear factory fenders. Adjust size down 1" for 35's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nucleophile View Post
You make a valid point about the 5100 shocks being on the stiff side. I like it, but then I also drive sports cars that are very stiff. So to me it feels normal. I do have one friend who changed out the 5100s for a softer shock and he likes the more plush ride over the firmer ride of the 5100s. Something to consider.

And you are right about offset being the key. But it is not just about keeping the tires off the frame. Changing the offset will impact the scrub radius. Now for a Jeep that does both trail and road duties, there are compromises that need to be made. But for something that is 100% road use, I think the scrub radius should be considered as it impacts the handling of the vehicle. I am pretty sure that the AEV wheels are designed with a specific offset to hit the scrub radius sweet spot. Of course, that too is a personal preference. Some people like a ton of caster and others not. Same with scrub radius.

The point I was trying to make was that AEV sells a complete "package" - lift and wheels designed to work in unison. For someone without a lot of background and experience with what works and what doesn't work, it simplifies things. At least you know if you get an AEV 3.5 or 4.5 lift, buy AEV wheels and 37 x 12.5 tires, someone has thought about how they all work together. That is the point I was trying to make. Again, it all depends on the value you place on handling dynamics over other things. And its a jeep - maybe handling dynamics isn't a concern at all...............
I prefer a firmer shock set up as well but like you said, there are others that do not. This is why setting shocks set ups are such a PITA. I have found that externally adjustable shocks should be looked at if a guys budget permits. Revalving shocks isn't hard to do its just a little time consuming so most guys don't even bother. YES, scrub radius is something to look at and pay attention to but tire/wheel clearance should take priority here. I have ready about guys having issues with AEV wheels clearing aftermarket rear swaybar links and steering components. AEV does make a nice looking wheel but make sure they are compatible with the suspension and steering parts you are wanting to use. BTW... I don't know ANYONE that goes out of their way to set up a vehicle with ton of increased scrub radius. It's almost always a biproduct of a clearance (tire/wheel/suspension/steering) issue being resolved/managed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpstick View Post
Complete packages from a well engineered company (Not from Rough Country and other "economic" companies) takes the guess work out of it. Well not really guess work but research, measuring, and trial. Personally I don't have a problem with that since my wants and needs are not the same as most other Jeepers (like with the shocks, what others may feel is a compromise I am used to or dont care and visa versa).... Its a Jeep its not something I'm going to Autocross, and they won't let me either I already tried Damn SCCA people discriminating on a JK on 33s at the time.
CORRECT.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Aev, MC and JKS make comparable kits using drop brackets.
We just got done wrapping up a drop bracket design for the 2014+ Ram 2500/3500 platform. It turned out pretty killer and was a reasonable route to take considering the design/cost constraints with making a new radius arm or converting over to a true 4 link design (which we are working on). Maybe I should take a look at the JK drop brackets again; looks like there is a market for them even though its not really the right way to do it.


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post #20 of 24 Old 10-30-2016, 12:39 PM
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Dave, cant beet em join em LOL
Theres a market of everything on a JK even a 6" ROUGH COUNTRY lift :rofl:


2 door Rubicon, 3.5" RockKrawler x-factor, 37x12.5x17 MTR's, Steer Smarts Yeti steering, Savvy aluminum half doors.

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #21 of 24 Old 10-31-2016, 04:59 AM
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don't really agree with this. There are MANY people running 35s that are very happy with them. Id bet in fact as many as there are happy people on 37s. 37s require a big jump in cost due to gearing, more expensive lifts, more expensive tires, stouter axles and differentials ect to gain a little in the real bad stuff and give up some of the streetability of 35s. Also not everyone here is 18 years old and want to have to about jump into there jeep because its so high. Bottom line is that if good 35s don't get you there, theres very few places that going to 37 is going to make a difference. I'm 60 and actually use my jeeps in the woods and you couldn't give me a set of 37s
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Originally Posted by Bumpstick View Post
Marcus means 35s are a waste of money. So many people buy them and after only a short time upgrade to 37s. Correct Marcus?
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post #22 of 24 Old 10-31-2016, 08:28 AM
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I would say 33's are a waste of money and if you are going bigger to make the jump to 35's. The gains in performance are just not there. I typically recommend 35's and a small lift unless you are running a lot of rocks and doing heavy off roading. 37's will be better off road but most will never run a trail that will see benefit from them over 35's. Most people run 37's for looks or to compensate for lack of driving skills.

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post #23 of 24 Old 11-01-2016, 08:02 AM
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I am in a very similar situation as the OP. I'm looking to purchase a JKUR as a daily driver and occasional overland vehicle. I would really like to run 37s, honestly due to the looks. I see lots of JK's with a 3.5" lift and have wondered if 37s will fit, or if I have to step up to a 4" lift. Also, does anyone here run 37s with 4.10 gearing? I ran 35s with 3.73 gearing on a FJ Cruiser and thought it performed fine. Much like 37s and regearing, everyone with FJs said you need to regear with 35s, but that wasn't my experience. Thoughts?
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post #24 of 24 Old 11-07-2016, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baseballchamp619 View Post
Thanks Marcus!!! So what you mean about running 37s is to not buy them??? So 35s would be best?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpstick View Post
Marcus means 35s are a waste of money. So many people buy them and after only a short time upgrade to 37s. Correct Marcus?
Yes, I meant if you have your heart set on the look of 37s then do it now instead of buying 35s and regretting it, losing money re-selling them, and buying tires again. Just buy what you want the first time.

Lots of good information in this thread. Sorry I was radio silent, I was out of town.


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