Not sure if that little "stick the knife in the back and walk away" jab was directed at me or not, but it sure felt like it was. And since I provided the most detailed recommendation, I assume it was.
I don't know what you are implying about "wrong reasons". I just try to share ACTUAL real life experiences with various products. I have run other manufacturers lifts and have had issues with them. But I don't come on here and bash them. I have run AEV lifts on JKs from 2007 on forward. I have installed many on friends jeeps. Nothing but positive results.
I don't have any affiliation with or allegiance to AEV. In fact, I spent almost $1,000 fixing a problem with their early hemi conversion kits that they finally admitted to, but didn't stand behind. It still chaps my ass.
I run some of your products on my Jeep and recommend them to friends. In fact, just last week I installed one of your tie rods on a friend's jeep.
As you can tell, I didn't appreciate your insinuation that I have some ulterior motive.
Chill man.... I wasn't really directing my reply specifically at you or this thread necessarily; it was more of just a general comment and message to the starter of the thread. Thank you to you and your friend for running some of my parts, I appreciate it.
On a side note... Not sure if BaseBallChampis looking to wheel his rig or not but if it is in your future I would not recommend control arm drop brackets. Control arm drop brackets are used, IMO, for 1 reason only... CO$T. The brackets are a decent alternative if you don't have the $ for adjustable arms but you should be aware of the draw backs. Control arm drop brackets will lower the suspension roll center height which will increase vehicle body roll and decrease performance on and off road. When lifting a vehicle it is important to increase the suspension roll center height to keep it as close the vehicle center of gravity as possible. The other issue is loos of vehicle ground clearance and that is pretty self explanatory.
Marcus means 35s are a waste of money. So many people buy them and after only a short time upgrade to 37s. Correct Marcus?
YES.... This is a regular occurrence. I would add that I see a lot of guys able to go from 35's to 37's with just a flat fender modification (aftermarket or altering stock units). The bump stop spacers are a little more critical here than lift height IMO. 3" bump spacer will keep 37's clear with flat or most aftermarket fenders while 4" are required to clear factory fenders. Adjust size down 1" for 35's.
You make a valid point about the 5100 shocks being on the stiff side. I like it, but then I also drive sports cars that are very stiff. So to me it feels normal. I do have one friend who changed out the 5100s for a softer shock and he likes the more plush ride over the firmer ride of the 5100s. Something to consider.
And you are right about offset being the key. But it is not just about keeping the tires off the frame. Changing the offset will impact the scrub radius. Now for a Jeep that does both trail and road duties, there are compromises that need to be made. But for something that is 100% road use, I think the scrub radius should be considered as it impacts the handling of the vehicle. I am pretty sure that the AEV wheels are designed with a specific offset to hit the scrub radius sweet spot. Of course, that too is a personal preference. Some people like a ton of caster and others not. Same with scrub radius.
The point I was trying to make was that AEV sells a complete "package" - lift and wheels designed to work in unison. For someone without a lot of background and experience with what works and what doesn't work, it simplifies things. At least you know if you get an AEV 3.5 or 4.5 lift, buy AEV wheels and 37 x 12.5 tires, someone has thought about how they all work together. That is the point I was trying to make. Again, it all depends on the value you place on handling dynamics over other things. And its a jeep - maybe handling dynamics isn't a concern at all...............
I prefer a firmer shock set up as well but like you said, there are others that do not. This is why setting shocks set ups are such a PITA. I have found that externally adjustable shocks
should be looked at if a guys budget permits. Revalving shocks isn't hard to do its just a little time consuming so most guys don't even bother. YES, scrub radius is something to look at and pay attention to but tire/wheel clearance should take priority here. I have ready about guys having issues with AEV wheels clearing aftermarket rear swaybar links and steering components. AEV does make a nice looking wheel but make sure they are compatible with the suspension and steering parts you are wanting to use. BTW... I don't know ANYONE that goes out of their way to set up a vehicle with ton of increased scrub radius. It's almost always a biproduct of a clearance (tire/wheel/suspension/steering) issue being resolved/managed.
Complete packages from a well engineered company (Not from Rough Country and other "economic" companies) takes the guess work out of it. Well not really guess work but research, measuring, and trial. Personally I don't have a problem with that since my wants and needs are not the same as most other Jeepers (like with the shocks, what others may feel is a compromise I am used to or dont care and visa versa).... Its a Jeep its not something I'm going to Autocross, and they won't let me either I already tried
Damn SCCA people discriminating on a JK on 33s at the time.
Aev, MC and JKS make comparable kits using drop brackets.
We just got done wrapping up a drop bracket design for the 2014+ Ram 2500/3500 platform. It turned out pretty killer and was a reasonable route to take considering the design/cost constraints with making a new radius arm or converting over to a true 4 link design (which we are working on). Maybe I should take a look at the JK drop brackets again; looks like there is a market for them even though its not really the right way to do it.