Actual cash price vs sticker price on the Willy's model JK - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 19 Old 10-18-2016, 12:45 AM Thread Starter
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Actual cash price vs sticker price on the Willy's model JK

MSRP* STARTING AT $31,995
I'm paying cash and purchasing three Jeeps so what would a acceptable cash offer that they would accept be.
I'm moving back to Arizona BTW and will be purchasing them there.
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I'm ordering three new JK's to replace my bad knees.

Last edited by Mooseman; 10-18-2016 at 12:49 AM.
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post #2 of 19 Old 10-18-2016, 06:02 AM
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No idea on what to offer, but your best play is likely the 3 Jeeps, not the cash part. The dealership will get some kickback from a financed deal (if its done through their channels). Might be worth trying to deal by financing through them and then paying the balance off immediately.
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post #3 of 19 Old 10-18-2016, 06:10 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Wildcat View Post
No idea on what to offer, but your best play is likely the 3 Jeeps, not the cash part. The dealership will get some kickback from a financed deal (if its done through their channels). Might be worth trying to deal by financing through them and then paying the balance off immediately.

Thanks but I'm retired and don't play the credit game anymore.

I'm ordering three new JK's to replace my bad knees.
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post #4 of 19 Old 10-18-2016, 07:49 AM
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With the purchase of three vehicles with cash, I would low ball at least 2-3k per jeep below sticker maybe more if you feel like haggling. Worst they can do is say "no".
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post #5 of 19 Old 10-18-2016, 07:57 AM
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There's not much haggling room on these. You pay 1% under invoice or whatever corporate discount gets you and that's it. They'll sell regardless of whether you want a fleet or not.

You could save a lot by buying pre-owned vehicles.


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post #6 of 19 Old 10-18-2016, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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I'd also like to say that would include that goofy dealer handling and setup.

I'm ordering three new JK's to replace my bad knees.
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post #7 of 19 Old 10-18-2016, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Mooseman View Post
I'd also like to say that would include that goofy dealer handling and setup.
Dealers are paid by the factory to perform a "PDI" Pre Delivery Inspection. Not sure what they pay these days but cars were usually around an hour's labor at the factory warranty rate (less than retail). Any issues they find would be warranty claims and paid as separate repairs.

As already stated, it is better for the dealer if you finance. They can often "hang the paper" at the lender for a lower price than you were quoted.

Sitting on an actual lump of cash in the dealership is usually seen internally as a liability (theft).

Dealers get a hold back if they meet their sales numbers for the year and maintain a certain level of CSI plus follow the other franchise requirements all year. Some dealers may get more than others and some might miss theirs.
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post #8 of 19 Old 10-18-2016, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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The only way I could get credit again is go back to work for 5 years or so. So credit is not an option. Actually If I had to finance one I would give up and go buy a couple ATV's cash before I'd ever do the credit thing again. I have paid cash for everything for the last 25 years.

I'm ordering three new JK's to replace my bad knees.
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post #9 of 19 Old 10-19-2016, 07:23 AM
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hi Moosman. I'm all new to the jeep world, but I was searching for some guidance for negotiating my upcoming JK purchase, and like someone said here before, you can get 1% under INVOICE (not MSRP) pretty easily, or at least so everyone says... to figure out the INVOICE vs MSRP on the jeep built you had in mind, try CARS.com.

The most straight forward way I saw to get that 1% under invoice without having to negotiate too much was becoming a member of Tread lightly ($100 membership or more)

from Tread lightly site:

"Members at the $100+ level are eligible to receive Affiliate Rewards Program Preferred Price (1% below factory invoice) on the purchase or lease of most new Chrysler, Jeep®, Ram, Dodge, and FIAT vehicles..."

"Please note that according to FCA US policy, you must be a member for at least 30 days to qualify for the FCA US Affiliate Rewards new vehicle discount. Thank you for your cooperation and patience, and thank you for supporting Tread Lightly!" - but if time is an issue the dealer MIGHT find away around having to wait for the 30 days to pass.


I was debating between getting a 2016 or a 2017, and got the advice on a different forum suggesting I offer 10% under MSRP, which makes sense when you take into account the 2016's don't have LED's and will automatically lose value compering to a 2017 with the same mileage.

Like I said, I have no real life experience as of yet, this is just the research I've done. I tried adding links on here to cars.com invoice page, and tread lightly site, but since I'm a new account, I can't post links just yet. but if you copy-paste the text I copied from tread lightly into google search, I'm sure google will find it for you

Good Luck

Mati
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post #10 of 19 Old 10-19-2016, 11:00 AM
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best bet might be to talk to multiple dealerships. in my experience, some work on volume whereas others try to squeeze as much profit out of each vehicle as humanly possible. once you figure out which dealerships are willing to negotiate, you can often play them off one another until you get a price that you like. about 10 years ago i bought a nissan xterra and had three dealers literally tripping over each other to make the sale. funniest part was that they were all trying to sell me the exact same vehicle (same vin number), which was located on the lot of one of the three dealerships. the other two dealers didn't have the color i wanted on their own lots, but they did a good job driving the price down and helping me negotiate with the third dealer that did have the color.

not sure how well this strategy would work with a jeep. before buying my current jeep, i found one i wanted at a dealership about 200 miles away and the local dealership told me they could match that price PLUS charge me only $2,000 to ship it to me. WTF? and i've seen used jeeps with fancy bumpers for sale at used car lots for more than new jeeps. again, WTF?
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post #11 of 19 Old 10-19-2016, 12:21 PM
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@Mooseman

I know you are inundated with all of these fine suggestions on how you could handle this bulk purchase you've planned; unfortunately the state of finances in this country has grown so dependant upon the use of credit and financing that it is almost impossibly difficult to make large purchases with ca$h. I hope it works out for you.

Now, with that in-mind and only trying to be helpful, they are not exactly brand,spankin' new 'Willys' model JKUs, I do-happen to be almost positive you could get an entire sixpack of low milage JKUs ( with heavier duty rear axles & sturdy,rare aftermarket parts, no less!) for cash on the barrel if you are interested...


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post #12 of 19 Old 10-20-2016, 12:35 PM
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FYI guys theres NO incentives for dealers to give you a discount for paying cash. NONE.
Normally is about 1k off MSRP in my area.
last day of a slow month, 2k.

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post #13 of 19 Old 10-20-2016, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boopiejones View Post
best bet might be to talk to multiple dealerships. in my experience, some work on volume whereas others try to squeeze as much profit out of each vehicle as humanly possible. once you figure out which dealerships are willing to negotiate, you can often play them off one another until you get a price that you like. about 10 years ago i bought a nissan xterra and had three dealers literally tripping over each other to make the sale. funniest part was that they were all trying to sell me the exact same vehicle (same vin number), which was located on the lot of one of the three dealerships. the other two dealers didn't have the color i wanted on their own lots, but they did a good job driving the price down and helping me negotiate with the third dealer that did have the color.

not sure how well this strategy would work with a jeep. before buying my current jeep, i found one i wanted at a dealership about 200 miles away and the local dealership told me they could match that price PLUS charge me only $2,000 to ship it to me. WTF? and i've seen used jeeps with fancy bumpers for sale at used car lots for more than new jeeps. again, WTF?
The calling around thing can backfire on you. Dealers can "put you on a hummer" meaning they can let you hear what you want to hear without actually saying it.

More importantly, when you want to move forward with the deal, the two dealers that don't have the car will have to call the dealer that does to verify that it is on the lot still and not already in a working deal or a demo or something. As soon as that happens, the dealer that has the car and that knows you want it will figure this all out and hold their price.

A better approach would be to use the online "request a quote" system to get quotes form your 3 closest dealers. It will be in writing. Quotes will usually come from a dedicated "internet" or "fleet" salesperson and often be competitive on the first "pencil." It should not take much effort to get a good deal these days.

As far as transportation costs, what @boopiejones says is believable but utter crap (from the dealer, not our friend boopiejones). Dealers (specifically the sales managers and anyone who "sits on the desk") usually have a list of 3-5 old retired guys that do nothing but run cars between dealers and auctions for cash in their spare time for like $50 to $100 or so plus expenses depending on distance etc.

Me? As an ex-car-biz-guy that had a California vehicle sales persons license, a California smog license, an ASE Master tech cert as well as a couple of factory master tech certs, I have a completely different approach to anything you have seen published. I march right into the sales office and ask for the sales manager then I get all Trey Gowdy on their asses. Once I find the actual sales manager and not a minion, I tell them that I am here "to buy a car" that "I know exactly what I want" and that "I do not want to speak to any salespeople." I also make it very clear that "you are my closest dealer" and that I am an ex car guy and that if I do not get what I want, I will go to the next closest dealer (probably a competitor) that will. I always start at the dealer closest to my home and then proceed to the one closest to my work and expand outward from there. I never have to go very far from home or work with this approach.

There are a shit ton of metrics on car sales that get fed back to the dealers. A dealer is going to know if you live in his/her zip code and bought a car outside of that zip code and what zip code you bought it in. IMHO, try to get the best deal from your closest dealer.

Dealers' hold back at the end of the fiscal sales year is also highly dependent on that survey (CSI) you get right after purchase so make sure to tell them that you will give them glowing reviews for a killer deal. At least bring it up because it *is* very important to the dealer and the sales manager even if the sales minion "green pea" has no clue.

Last edited by White13JKUR; 10-20-2016 at 03:57 PM.
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post #14 of 19 Old 10-20-2016, 04:27 PM
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Me? As an ex-car-biz-guy that had a California vehicle sales persons license, a California smog license, an ASE Master tech cert as well as a couple of factory master tech certs, I have a completely different approach to anything you have seen published. I march right into the sales office and ask for the sales manager then I get all Trey Gowdy on their asses. Once I find the actual sales manager and not a minion, I tell them that I am here "to buy a car" that "I know exactly what I want" and that "I do not want to speak to any salespeople." I also make it very clear that "you are my closest dealer" and that I am an ex car guy and that if I do not get what I want, I will go to the next closest dealer (probably a competitor) that will. I always start at the dealer closest to my home and then proceed to the one closest to my work and expand outward from there. I never have to go very far from home or work with this approach.

Oh god you're "That guy" lol

But keep in mind atleast on the east coast theres not much room on Wranglers. I searched for a few years on and off and never found any good deals.

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post #15 of 19 Old 10-20-2016, 06:40 PM
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Oh god you're "That guy" lol
Yes. I am that guy. I will steal the car on the purchase and not pay a dime for paid service and I tend to perform most warranty repairs myself where it is mostly labor that I can bang out without suffering a trip to the dealer. When I accompany friends to the dealership, the sales guys don't like that very much. The inside term for that is "the third baseman." I do that for fun and a six pack.

Evil Thirdbaseman from hell out.

Don't even get me started on buying a used car.... Muhahahhahahaha....
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post #16 of 19 Old 10-20-2016, 07:44 PM
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...why are you getting 3 out of curiosity?

as previously stated you're better off financing, from their perspective and yours.....borrowing @ 2-3% is less than what you'd (hopefully) earn if you leave that invested...introduce the power of compound interest and over 5 years and 3 jeeps thats a decent chunk.
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post #17 of 19 Old 10-20-2016, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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...why are you getting 3 out of curiosity?
Because I only have a three car garage.

I'm ordering three new JK's to replace my bad knees.
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post #18 of 19 Old 10-20-2016, 09:16 PM
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IMHO, OTD for MSRP is OK

The last 4 vehicles we've purchased ('09 KTM 530, '10 JK Rubi, '11 FJ Cruiser TRD, '16 Outback 3.6R) have been out the door for very close to MSRP.
I hear people say "you can't do that in my area" and that may be the case, but I'd assume it can be done and be willing to walk away if not.
Don't buy in to the "rare" aspect of "special, limited edition" crap - it's a fucking option and sticker package, and they will make more of 'em.

This works for me:

I figure out to the last option exactly what I want, look it up on TrueCar, then go to the dealer and show them my build and the target price. After they hem, haw, and fook around for most of an hour, we have a deal. I'm very direct and assertive with them. but I stay nice (no need to be a dick or get aggressive). As each 10 minutes passes, I get more direct and curt, and make it more obvious that I'm being nice. It may or may not be obvious to them that I'm fully ready for "that other way" , but I think the success comes from knowing exactly what I want and exactly what I could pay for it, then being willing to let them come out to 1 or 2 hundred above MSRP out the door (let 'em win half a percent - makes 'em feel good).

That may or may not work for you, but it's worked great for me. Good hunting!


EDIT: I forgot about the combo-breaker --> I bought a 2015 DR650 for damn-near full price
(nobody was discounting, but it was still a good deal )

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post #19 of 19 Old 10-21-2016, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ExWrench View Post
The last 4 vehicles we've purchased ('09 KTM 530, '10 JK Rubi, '11 FJ Cruiser TRD, '16 Outback 3.6R) have been out the door for very close to MSRP.
I hear people say "you can't do that in my area" and that may be the case, but I'd assume it can be done and be willing to walk away if not.
Don't buy in to the "rare" aspect of "special, limited edition" crap - it's a fucking option and sticker package, and they will make more of 'em.
Yeah, car salesman know that car buying is a very emotional game. Being prepared to walk away (with the idea in mind that they punch out more cars every day) is very good advice. Never be in a hurry. The sales guy and his manager are excellent at fabricating a false sense of urgency so that they can TRIP a car today. When a sales manager becomes aware that the salesperson's customer is falling out of love with a particular car, he'll give the order to the sales guy to ..."go put your customer back on the ether" (translation: go get them to fall in love with the car again and then go for the close again).

Did you get that Subie in Walnut Creek? Should have called me on that one. With a single PM, I could have made a quick call over there and you could have shown up like a boss and skipped all that online quote bullpucky. You could have also marched right up to the sales manager without a PM or a call and told him that you are my friend and that I sent you in. Done!

edit:
On the financing versus cash - here is how you should look at that. If you can get cheap money on the loan then do that instead of tying up your capital that might be producing a higher interest than the low APR options available.

My own example.... Even knowing this, I purchased our minivan for all cash when finance rates were like 1.9% or something. I ended up regretting not having that additional capital around instead.

For my jeep, I went 100% finance with $0 out of pocket on a low interest rate loan. I was even able to get them below invoice to the point that I pissed off the sales manager. No regrets.

Last edited by White13JKUR; 10-21-2016 at 09:22 AM.
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