Upper and Lower Control Arm Lengths - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 02-21-2016, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Upper and Lower Control Arm Lengths

Does anyone know the proper lengths for the rear upper and lower control arms for a 4 door JK with 3.5" of lift? I can't find the info anywhere and I'm trying to save time instead of the doing the trial and error process.
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post #2 of 18 Old 02-21-2016, 11:26 AM
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Theres no set numbers. Id say 20" lowers , 18" uppers unless you want to move the axle back more then 1/4
Lowers set wheelbase, uppers pinion and thats going to be different jeep to jeep and 2/4 door.




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post #3 of 18 Old 02-21-2016, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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It's there any negative implications for moving the rear axle back further? I was thinking the axle needs to go back about an inch to be even close to center.
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post #4 of 18 Old 02-21-2016, 01:07 PM
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No .. But most manufactures will to clear a 37" plus.
In all reality wheelbase change is minimal. I find .5 back to be a nice compromise. Anymore the coils can bow. On a 2 door pinion correction runs the swaybar links up against the UCA mounts.





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post #5 of 18 Old 02-21-2016, 08:05 PM
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What lift do you have...and what is the manufacturer's recommended length ??

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post #6 of 18 Old 02-22-2016, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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I'm running a 3.5" RE lift with a 1.25" BL and am going to 40" tires. right now I'm on 37" tires and clear but the 40's will be close. I've already trimmed the rear pinch seam down. oh, this is a 4 door also. with this lift and trimmed fenders I have more than enough lift height for the 40's but my rear axle is far from centered in the fender well. when I ordered the adjustable rear control arms to center my rear axle, I also ordered the spring wedges to help with any spring bow.

2011 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
- 40" Pro Comp MT2's
- Lot's of extra's
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post #7 of 18 Old 02-22-2016, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamoCop View Post
I'm running a 3.5" RE lift with a 1.25" BL and am going to 40" tires. right now I'm on 37" tires and clear but the 40's will be close. I've already trimmed the rear pinch seam down. oh, this is a 4 door also. with this lift and trimmed fenders I have more than enough lift height for the 40's but my rear axle is far from centered in the fender well. when I ordered the adjustable rear control arms to center my rear axle, I also ordered the spring wedges to help with any spring bow.

I would go for .5 to .75


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post #8 of 18 Old 02-22-2016, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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so to move my rear axle back say .75", do I just adjust my rear lower control arm .75" longer than the factory arm or is that not how it works?

2011 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
- 40" Pro Comp MT2's
- Lot's of extra's
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post #9 of 18 Old 02-22-2016, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
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sorry for all the questions. I've never messed with adjustable control arms before.

2011 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
- 40" Pro Comp MT2's
- Lot's of extra's
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post #10 of 18 Old 02-22-2016, 09:05 AM
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I found the easiest way to do it.
-Match lowers 20.5 (+ .75)
- remove lowers and install new arms (leave the bolts loose)

- jack up axle and place on stands
- use jack under pinion to take load off and remove uppers
- set driveshaft angle -2 using jack
- remove tires
- take one upper, bolt up frame side and adjust joint out to the axle mount (bolts should slide in/out with ease)
- do the same with the 2nd upper
- lower jack and recheck pinion angle
- tighten everything up
- mount tires
- drop to ground



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2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #11 of 18 Old 02-22-2016, 09:09 AM
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Same setup in the front except both uppers and lowers can be installed with the jeep on the ground. Pinion should be +1 or +2 degrees.




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2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #12 of 18 Old 02-22-2016, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
I found the easiest way to do it.
-Match lowers 20.5 (+ .75)
- remove lowers and install new arms (leave the bolts loose)

- jack up axle and place on stands
- use jack under pinion to take load off and remove uppers
- set driveshaft angle -2 using jack
- remove tires
- take one upper, bolt up frame side and adjust joint out to the axle mount (bolts should slide in/out with ease)
- do the same with the 2nd upper
- lower jack and recheck pinion angle
- tighten everything up
- mount tires
- drop to ground



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so you're saying adjust the lowers to 20.5" or 21.25" (adding the .75")?

2011 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
- 40" Pro Comp MT2's
- Lot's of extra's
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post #13 of 18 Old 02-22-2016, 02:04 PM
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Stock = 19.75
20.5 = + .75


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2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #14 of 18 Old 02-23-2016, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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ok got my axle centered. I went with 21" on the lowers and 18 9/16" on the uppers which is what RK recommended for a 3.5" lift. I found the paperwork with this information in the packing paper. ran out of time so I will put the spring wedges in tomorrow. one thing I noticed now is my rear sway bar links are riding against my axle housing. the top of the sway bar link is actually leaning slightly over the axle housing towards the front of the Jeep. what is everyone doing to solve this issue? will removing the rear sway bar all together make the on road handling significantly worse?

2011 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
- 40" Pro Comp MT2's
- Lot's of extra's
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post #15 of 18 Old 02-23-2016, 05:21 PM
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Upper and Lower Control Arm Lengths

Move it back 1"

What does your pinion look like?


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2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #16 of 18 Old 02-23-2016, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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pinion angle looks great. right now the axle is almost perfectly centered which is what I wanted. I will just remove my rear sway bar before I move my rear axle back to where it was before I started.

2011 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
- 40" Pro Comp MT2's
- Lot's of extra's
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post #17 of 18 Old 02-24-2016, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamoCop View Post
pinion angle looks great. right now the axle is almost perfectly centered which is what I wanted. I will just remove my rear sway bar before I move my rear axle back to where it was before I started.
I moved my swaybay back until it was almost touching the muffler. I just marked one side, drilled new holes, tapped them, measured for the other side, rinse, repeat. Metalcloak sells adapters to move it back if you don't want to drill and tap.

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post #18 of 18 Old 02-24-2016, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASSFROW View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by CamoCop View Post
pinion angle looks great. right now the axle is almost perfectly centered which is what I wanted. I will just remove my rear sway bar before I move my rear axle back to where it was before I started.
I moved my swaybay back until it was almost touching the muffler. I just marked one side, drilled new holes, tapped them, measured for the other side, rinse, repeat. Metalcloak sells adapters to move it back if you don't want to drill and tap.
Yep ^^^^
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