Ah, good point!
I apologize for the delay...it took some time to pull this outta my ass.
I can only go by my experiences but I think "this opinion" will fall in line with other's.
For the most part, I'm not gonna address open diffs. We all know they provide near zero control, under power or engine braking, in slippery conditions and relative to limited-slip/locked diffs.
By "control", I mean being able to manipulate the vehicle's direction and rate of acceleration/deceleration with some certainty and semblance of confidence. Loss of traction isn't necessarily loss of control, it could also be another means of getting the desired result(s) if it's induced by the operator.
By "slippery conditions", I mean situations that warrant 4x4/AWD as I'm limiting my comments to other than 2wd.
As far as situations, I'm also limiting my comments to on-road snow conditions. Off road situations offer too many variables by way of the terrain's camber, pitch, varying traction and obstacles.
Limited-slip might also be broken down to clutch-pack vs gear-driven. I'm not recommending clutch-pack LSDs for snow, but it's better than open.
The following is presented with "acceleration situations in a straight line" in mind.
Clutch-packs in limited-slip diffs have set pressure thresholds that must be met before the pack functions as intended. These pressures are rated in hundreds of pounds, like 300, 500, 800, etc. Likely, snow can present too little traction to overcome the preload tension, particularly in a "strong" set-up. Thus, the clutch-pack acts like a locker. Both wheels spin until the nominal amount of traction is gained by one wheel or the other. At that point, the spring pressure will have been overcome and the wheel without traction will continue to spin while the clutch-pack delivers reduced torque(governed by the spring pressure) to the wheel with traction. Hopefully, enough traction is gained by the one wheel that the diff can return to a locked state as the traction-less wheel fights against nothing or, at least, less traction than the spring pressure can overcome. The biggest drawback to this system, as I see it anyway, is the wheels waiting, perhaps imperceptibly, for the clutch plates to gain and/or release their hold. Throw the vehicle in a turn and that 1/2 rotation of the wheel may be enough to lock it again. Goodbye traction.
Gear-driven limited-slip diffs don't suffer the slippage that occurs with clutch-packs. They are always engaged and the side-to-side leverage is managed by a set ratio that's built into the design. They, as far as I'm concerned, will never act like a locker and, so, will always deliver a balanced amount of torque based on the available traction, throttle input not withstanding, up to 100% torque to one wheel. Yes, you can overcome the available traction for both wheels but each wheel still acts seemingly independent of one another as the amount of torque the user demands is delivered. It strives to maintain a seamless amount of traction, side-to-side.
Going out on a limb here, gear-drive is a plus in our JK's favor as the BLD(Brake Locked Differential) that assists in maintaining the amount of torque delivered is working with a balanced system. I assume BLD in a clutch-pack applies too little brake as it has the clutch-pack kicking in and out under spring pressure, leading to uncertain application of the both the brakes and the resulting traction, or lack thereof as traction is lost again when the brakes disengage. The sensors pick up on the loss of traction, re-engage the brakes, ad nausem. It might be correct to say the engagement/disengagement of the clutch-pack by spring force is a larger variable for the BLD to deal with than the constant ratio of a gear-driven LSD.
Lockers. This seems okay as both will be pulling equally, 50/50 percentages - there is no other split. When the wheel you're relying on for momentum loses its traction, that's the issue lockers present. If both wheels lose traction, neither regains it without an input from the operator. There may not be any traction to be had anyway, or you have your foot in it for fun, or you really need to just dig your way through. And there's the problem...knowing when you have traction. The available traction on one wheel may only support 40% torque and the other wheel's traction may only support 20% torque. Effectively, the weak side is doing nothing but maintaining its loss of traction if you're pulling at 40%. When the strong side loses its traction, both wheels are now "out of control" until corrected by the operator.
Hopefully, my understanding of these systems as I've presented them is on base. If so, let's move on to turning, a much more important aspect of vehicle control. The previous content of diatribe should lessen the amount of Pepto-Bismol needed to get through this.
Since we're talking about snow, I'm just gonna say it now. Lockers are the debil. In a turn, the arc paths cut by each wheel are different radii. That means none of the wheels are turning at the same rate. Effectively, if you have traction at one wheel, the other three are either being over-driven or under-driven. In other words, three wheels do not have meaningful traction.
End story and any kudos I would otherwise bestow upon lockers, particularly in a front application where the arc paths are significantly different. The rear? Not such a big deal, we should all know how to throttle steer. Lose the front when you need it? That's a BIG fucking deal...you're going straight as the rears want to push equally.
LSDs. They allow for the varying turn rates of the wheels.
Again, clutch-packs require enough traction at one of the axle's wheels to overcome spring pressure. You could still steer straight off the road if it's slick enough.
Gear-driven LSDs don't have thresholds to overcome. They act like open diffs whether they are under power or not. The difference is they deliver power in a balanced fashion, unlike an open that will send all the torque to the wheel that's spinning.
Deceleration...engine braking. Instead of adding still more verbal excrement to my post, just extrapolate the previous mass of feces to reflect the inverse forces.
That oughta do for a start.
And then there's the whole "rally" style of driving to consider. Pitch it sideways, punch it...
At any rate, I'm goin' gear-driven, front and rear. My JK climbs/digs well enough offroad with the open front and clutch-pack rear, but it's doesn't track so well in the snow. My WJ has QuadraDrive...I'm looking to emulate that control.