Any Heater core Mods you've done. - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 14 Old 02-04-2016, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Central PA.
Posts: 47
Feedback: 0 reviews
Any Heater core Mods you've done.

Replacing my heater core in our 2009. Anyone run other lines inside rather then pull the dash again? If so how( did you reroute) and how did it hold up for you? I'm looking at running rubber inside and cutting some of the metal line away on the new core. So I can slide any other future replacements in and out under the dash. Don't really want to disassemble the dash again.
trailblazer2727 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 14 Old 02-09-2016, 08:59 PM
Granite Guru
 
N30EX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Anaheim Hills, CA
Posts: 191
Feedback: 0 reviews

I just did an LS3 swap a couple months back and found the heater started blowing cold air in the left-most vent. Checking online came back with the general thought that this is a failing core, tear apart the dash, replace, etc....

I read, too, about a dude that used some CLR (calcium, lime, rust remover) and let it cook in his core for 30 minutes or so, flushed and had a fully functional core again.

I pulled the hoses, made a huge mess (hate doing this--barely had the garage mopped back up from the swap, damn-it!), back flushed, forward flushed (used a garden hose and blew air through--did not pressurize the core, of course). After that I filled with CLR and let it sit for 10 minutes, flushed again back and forth. I repeated this once more and got to the point that the water just looked clear and nice and no particulate matter.

Reassembled and it's been perfect!

If your core isn't leaking, give it a go. Nothing to lose. It may not really help or answer your question here, but this saved me from ripping out my dash.

-Randy


2007 JKU (ex)Rubicon w/bolt-ons: LS3 / 6L80E Synergy Long Arm 4.5" Lift 40"s Dana 60s PSC Hydro etc.
N30EX is offline  
post #3 of 14 Old 02-10-2016, 09:52 AM
Rock God
 
UnlimiDozer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Tulare, CA
Posts: 1,494
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by N30EX View Post
I just did an LS3 swap a couple months back and found the heater started blowing cold air in the left-most vent. Checking online came back with the general thought that this is a failing core, tear apart the dash, replace, etc....

I read, too, about a dude that used some CLR (calcium, lime, rust remover) and let it cook in his core for 30 minutes or so, flushed and had a fully functional core again.

I pulled the hoses, made a huge mess (hate doing this--barely had the garage mopped back up from the swap, damn-it!), back flushed, forward flushed (used a garden hose and blew air through--did not pressurize the core, of course). After that I filled with CLR and let it sit for 10 minutes, flushed again back and forth. I repeated this once more and got to the point that the water just looked clear and nice and no particulate matter.

Reassembled and it's been perfect!

If your core isn't leaking, give it a go. Nothing to lose. It may not really help or answer your question here, but this saved me from ripping out my dash.

-Randy
Good info Randy. Haven't needed to do this, but that's a great idea.

My Build Thread:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


I'm the NRA
JOIN HERE:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
UnlimiDozer is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 14 Old 02-10-2016, 11:50 AM
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Age: 38
Posts: 485
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by N30EX View Post
I just did an LS3 swap a couple months back and found the heater started blowing cold air in the left-most vent. Checking online came back with the general thought that this is a failing core, tear apart the dash, replace, etc....

I read, too, about a dude that used some CLR (calcium, lime, rust remover) and let it cook in his core for 30 minutes or so, flushed and had a fully functional core again.

I pulled the hoses, made a huge mess (hate doing this--barely had the garage mopped back up from the swap, damn-it!), back flushed, forward flushed (used a garden hose and blew air through--did not pressurize the core, of course). After that I filled with CLR and let it sit for 10 minutes, flushed again back and forth. I repeated this once more and got to the point that the water just looked clear and nice and no particulate matter.

Reassembled and it's been perfect!

If your core isn't leaking, give it a go. Nothing to lose. It may not really help or answer your question here, but this saved me from ripping out my dash.

-Randy
Good stuff getting it going. This isnt direcetd at you but anyone who is thinking about using that CLR may want to think twice. That stuff doesnt play well with aluminum I hear.
CrazyLarry is offline  
post #5 of 14 Old 02-10-2016, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Central PA.
Posts: 47
Feedback: 0 reviews

I've been working on the heater core when I get the time. Mine was leaking at the crimped lower pipe seal. I decided to get another core. It came Mon. PM. I cut the lines on the leaking core and pulled them out thru the firewall. That left me the room to slide the old core out. I then cut the firewall to the right, enough to let me slide copper flex line inside. I cut the new heater core lines at approx. 5", slid it in and ran rubber between the copper and the core. Ran rubber off the engine and pump to the copper. I'm going to use spray foam to seal around the new copper lines. If I ever have to replace again, all I have to do is unhook the rubber under the dash and slide old out and new in. Don't know why they didn't run the lines to the right of center from new. It would have given enough room that the dash wouldn't have to be removed.
trailblazer2727 is offline  
post #6 of 14 Old 02-10-2016, 05:56 PM
Gunnery Sergeant USMC (ret)
 
Uncle Sams Misguided Child's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Tucson AZ
Age: 52
Posts: 21,979
Feedback: 8 reviews

Pics??

Quote:
Originally Posted by lohchief View Post
If people don't take a stand now,you'll be bitches under their thumbs tomorrow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by StubEXrube View Post
I think too much of a pressure variant between Earth and outer-space... lack of oxygen... something like that.
Uncle Sams Misguided Child is online now  
post #7 of 14 Old 02-11-2016, 05:30 AM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Central PA.
Posts: 47
Feedback: 0 reviews

Taking as I go I'll post when I get it finished. Should be ready for antifreeze today. Still have run test before I reinstall dash tupperware.
trailblazer2727 is offline  
post #8 of 14 Old 02-11-2016, 11:50 AM
Granite Guru
 
N30EX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Anaheim Hills, CA
Posts: 191
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyLarry View Post
Good stuff getting it going. This isnt direcetd at you but anyone who is thinking about using that CLR may want to think twice. That stuff doesnt play well with aluminum I hear.
I agree--it's an acid, but in my case: 8 hours to R&R the heater core (plus buying one) or trying the flush. I figured I had little to lose, and at that, 10 minutes diluted exposure seemed safe enough.

You mileage may vary.

-Randy


2007 JKU (ex)Rubicon w/bolt-ons: LS3 / 6L80E Synergy Long Arm 4.5" Lift 40"s Dana 60s PSC Hydro etc.
N30EX is offline  
post #9 of 14 Old 02-12-2016, 05:41 AM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Central PA.
Posts: 47
Feedback: 0 reviews
Mod

Hope these work.
https://www.jkowners.com/forum/attach...1&d=1455284336
Attached Images
         
trailblazer2727 is offline  
post #10 of 14 Old 02-12-2016, 09:28 AM
Granite Guru
 
N30EX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Anaheim Hills, CA
Posts: 191
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by trailblazer2727 View Post
Hope these work.
Dude! That is awesome. Thanks for sharing that.

-Randy


2007 JKU (ex)Rubicon w/bolt-ons: LS3 / 6L80E Synergy Long Arm 4.5" Lift 40"s Dana 60s PSC Hydro etc.
N30EX is offline  
post #11 of 14 Old 02-12-2016, 11:18 AM
Gunnery Sergeant USMC (ret)
 
Uncle Sams Misguided Child's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Tucson AZ
Age: 52
Posts: 21,979
Feedback: 8 reviews

Why the fuck would some dumb ass engineer decide that it was a good idea to have to take the dash apart to change something like that?

I am assuming the double hose clamps on the core end are just added insurance?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lohchief View Post
If people don't take a stand now,you'll be bitches under their thumbs tomorrow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by StubEXrube View Post
I think too much of a pressure variant between Earth and outer-space... lack of oxygen... something like that.
Uncle Sams Misguided Child is online now  
post #12 of 14 Old 02-12-2016, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Central PA.
Posts: 47
Feedback: 0 reviews

Yes to the double clamps. If it leaks I'd rather its not inside again. As to the engineer. Why would you put two 90 degree bends in those pipes when there is room to move the opening over in the firewall and do a straight run inside.
trailblazer2727 is offline  
post #13 of 14 Old 02-13-2016, 04:02 PM
Comfortably Numb
 
RubiCajun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 12,289
Garage
Feedback: 1 reviews

I had a leak in the elbow of the lower hose which was caused by the hose rubbing from vibration on the firewall. I cut the bad part off and used a 3/8" galvanized pipe nipple (3" short) and two stainless hose clamps. I then cut up a larger heater hose and placed them on each elbow OD. The engineer that designed the routing for the tubing should be fired and sent to work for Yugo or Hillary's campaign manager.

08 Rubi Unlimited named Freebird

Quote:
Originally Posted by StubEXrube View Post
Cat killing would almost certainly decline if we were allowed to hunt liberals.
Asylum media group llc all rights reserved 2015
RubiCajun is offline  
post #14 of 14 Old 07-06-2016, 05:12 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 1
Feedback: 0 reviews

Crap... I take it that this sweet mod is only for RHDs, I got excited for a minute.

Number 3 just failed on my 2010 JKU.
Bad0OMyn is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome