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post #1 of 164 Old 12-18-2015, 04:27 AM Thread Starter
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Rubicon - expected handling

Hi,
I bought a 2012 Rubicon several weeks back w/ about 100k miles on it. Got new stock tires, the mud terrain BF Goodrich - cold 36 lbs. The warranty on it covered and replaced the ball joints. Now it rides much better than before. However, it still feels like I need to do more work to keep it running in a straight line on the highway than I would normally expect. The dealer checked it out, and had aligned it. I took it back last night and they said it looked fine. Suspension is stock except for Zone shocks. The mechanic said that Rubi's tend to wander a little bit.
The vehicle tends to sort of gyrate diagonally if I am adjusting to a curve or hit a bounce in the road or a good wind. I realize a tall square vehicle like this will behave that way, especially due to wind. But it just seems like it should not travel this much. I'll post some pics of the front-end as I'm guessing someone is going to ask.

Last edited by jeff_jeep; 12-19-2015 at 06:56 AM.
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post #2 of 164 Old 12-18-2015, 04:53 AM
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The diagonal gyration is shocks. If you mean it tends to bounce opposite corners through a curve. I had same issue.

If you have new tires they need to get a few miles on them till they find their groove so to speak.

If the caster is correct and the front end is good according to the shop id drive it a bit more to get your tire broke in.

100k on tie rod and drag link ends as well as hub bearings id replace those as well, but thats just me. Contol arm and track bar bushings may be worn too.

Look for new take off parts shocks, sway bar ends, control arms and track bars, and repalce them free. Someone is always giving that stuff away and then you'd have a new susp under it aside from the hubs and ends

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post #3 of 164 Old 12-18-2015, 06:33 AM
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Zone shocks aren't widely touted as being a great shock, but the reviews aren't all bad, either. Still, i would do some research and look to upgrade for a smoother ride.
If your ball joints were toast some of your other bushings are likely done also.
Jeep also uses a 14 mm non-shouldered bolt for the track bar in 9/16" holes. This allows the bolt to move and oval out the hole with the non shouldered threads acting like a file. The control arm bolts are also file like non-shouldered bolts. This is not going to help your road feel. Replacement bolt/hardware kits are available from Rebel, synergy and Northridge4x4. Your local bolt supply might have them.
Tires also can have an effect as they wear in, my stock BFG's rode like round bricks.
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post #4 of 164 Old 12-18-2015, 07:54 AM
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I got an 08 used a few months ago and it was at 88k miles. I had to replace the tie rod and both ends along with the drag link and ends. I also had a wheel barring assembly going out so just replaced both allong with the steering stabliser. I got new Rubi take offs and still have a little wonder on the highway. I dropped the tire pressure down 2 lbs and seams to be better.
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post #5 of 164 Old 12-18-2015, 08:02 AM
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My Rubi didnt wander at all stock unless it was very windy. Your Mechanic is full of shit. At 100k I would look at replacing the tie rod ends and as has been said I would look for some low mile stock take off control arms which can come from any JK model (sport, rubi, and sahara) as they are all the same, or replace the bushings in the ones you have. You might even be able to get some take off rubicon shocks which are nice.
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post #6 of 164 Old 12-18-2015, 09:44 AM
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The diagonal dipping going through corners curves could also be shot springs.

Like I said look for new take offs and replace your susp for free. I just gave away all my stock rubi susp parts....... thatsbthe cheapest and easiest way to get new everything.
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post #7 of 164 Old 12-18-2015, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRubiconLJ View Post
The diagonal gyration is shocks. If you mean it tends to bounce opposite corners through a curve. I had same issue.

If you have new tires they need to get a few miles on them till they find their groove so to speak.

If the caster is correct and the front end is good according to the shop id drive it a bit more to get your tire broke in.

100k on tie rod and drag link ends as well as hub bearings id replace those as well, but thats just me. Contol arm and track bar bushings may be worn too.

Look for new take off parts shocks, sway bar ends, control arms and track bars, and repalce them free. Someone is always giving that stuff away and then you'd have a new susp under it aside from the hubs and ends
Thanks for the info. Maybe these Zone shocks are more heavy duty than I need.
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post #8 of 164 Old 12-18-2015, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coilrod View Post
Zone shocks aren't widely touted as being a great shock, but the reviews aren't all bad, either. Still, i would do some research and look to upgrade for a smoother ride.
If your ball joints were toast some of your other bushings are likely done also.
Jeep also uses a 14 mm non-shouldered bolt for the track bar in 9/16" holes. This allows the bolt to move and oval out the hole with the non shouldered threads acting like a file. The control arm bolts are also file like non-shouldered bolts. This is not going to help your road feel. Replacement bolt/hardware kits are available from Rebel, synergy and Northridge4x4. Your local bolt supply might have them.
Tires also can have an effect as they wear in, my stock BFG's rode like round bricks.
I saw a video or two about the 14 mm, wrong size bolts. Seems pretty odd but makes sense to do the fix.
thx.
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post #9 of 164 Old 12-18-2015, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08JKUR33 View Post
I got an 08 used a few months ago and it was at 88k miles. I had to replace the tie rod and both ends along with the drag link and ends. I also had a wheel barring assembly going out so just replaced both allong with the steering stabliser. I got new Rubi take offs and still have a little wonder on the highway. I dropped the tire pressure down 2 lbs and seams to be better.
Are you running the BFG mud terrain tires? What pressure are you happy with?
thanks for the info.
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post #10 of 164 Old 12-18-2015, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robnoxious1 View Post
My Rubi didnt wander at all stock unless it was very windy. Your Mechanic is full of shit. At 100k I would look at replacing the tie rod ends and as has been said I would look for some low mile stock take off control arms which can come from any JK model (sport, rubi, and sahara) as they are all the same, or replace the bushings in the ones you have. You might even be able to get some take off rubicon shocks which are nice.
How does one get in the queue for take offs?
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post #11 of 164 Old 12-18-2015, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRubiconLJ View Post
The diagonal dipping going through corners curves could also be shot springs.

Like I said look for new take offs and replace your susp for free. I just gave away all my stock rubi susp parts....... thatsbthe cheapest and easiest way to get new everything.
I'm on-board with the take off scenario. How do I make it known that I'm available to accept free stuff?
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post #12 of 164 Old 12-18-2015, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff_jeep View Post
I'm on-board with the take off scenario. How do I make it known that I'm available to accept free stuff?
Start checking the local for sale forums all over fb and internet. They are out there.

My diagonal dipping thru curves was bad shocks but weak factory springs because I had stock susp with aftermarket bumpers front and rear and a winch. The factory susp isnt rated to have that kind of weight on its nose and arse.

I kept blowing my factory rubi shocks but they were covered by warranty

Last edited by RedRubiconLJ; 12-18-2015 at 11:48 AM.
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post #13 of 164 Old 12-18-2015, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRubiconLJ View Post
Start checking the local for sale forums all over fb and internet. They are out there.

My diagonal dipping thru curves was bad shocks but weak factory springs because I had stock susp with aftermarket bumpers front and rear and a winch. The factory susp isnt rated to have that kind of weight on its nose and arse.

I kept blowing my factory rubi shocks but they were covered by warranty
Do you all know if these guys are reputable? I wonder how I'd know that these springs and shocks indeed had under 100 miles. It sounds like they are take offs - http://www.rubitrux.com/jeep-wrangle...s-springs.html
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post #14 of 164 Old 12-18-2015, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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Shocks

After some more studying, I've decided that shocks are what I want to mess with first. I don't seem to have the symptoms of needing springs, from what I've read. So, the question is whether to go relatively cheap with oem take offs, or buy new possibly Rancho RS9000XL. At the moment I'm more interested in road comfort. Any other recommendations for a good road shock that wouldn't break the bank like the Rancho?

thanks for any suggestions.
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post #15 of 164 Old 12-18-2015, 02:51 PM
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I did new take offs and have no complaints. $40 for all 4 shocks
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post #16 of 164 Old 12-18-2015, 03:41 PM
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You can get the new Rancho 5000x shocks for $200 ish.

Where are you located. I have factory arms i could get you for shipping.

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #17 of 164 Old 12-18-2015, 07:08 PM
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Just for the hell of it try airing down some, to about 28lbs. Then air up incrementally back towards where you are now.
I never had stock tires on mine but if I run that much air in my 35"s it is a miserable wandering bitch.
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post #18 of 164 Old 12-19-2015, 02:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08JKUR33 View Post
I did new take offs and have no complaints. $40 for all 4 shocks
Sure can't beat that price.
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post #19 of 164 Old 12-19-2015, 03:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
You can get the new Rancho 5000x shocks for $200 ish.

Where are you located. I have factory arms i could get you for shipping.
I don't know if it's good logic, but I think if I don't go for the adjustable Rancho, I probably would go with oem take offs for the sake of price.
By the way; what's the difference between the 5000 and 5000x ? And do you own these and do you like them for road use?

Last edited by jeff_jeep; 12-19-2015 at 03:05 AM.
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post #20 of 164 Old 12-19-2015, 03:03 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronson View Post
Just for the hell of it try airing down some, to about 28lbs. Then air up incrementally back towards where you are now.
I never had stock tires on mine but if I run that much air in my 35"s it is a miserable wandering bitch.
Yeah, that's the question; where to start. I do have a compressor, so it's not a big deal that I have add. Either way, some air is coming out today.
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post #21 of 164 Old 12-19-2015, 03:09 AM Thread Starter
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How to know if I have lift kit installed

To get the right shocks, I need to know if the jeep has any kind of lift kit.
Jeep dealer said it looks stock, but I wondered about the springs. I know that spacers can be added and I don't know if spring spacers are visible. Photo of the top of the front shocks. Do new shocks come with those rubber pads?
Here are some measurements, if that helps...
From ground to bottom of fender is 37 1/2" on front with about 6 1/2" clearance from the tire to the bottom of the fender. Rear 39" and about 7 1/4" clearance.
Also 22.5" from middle of hub to bottom of fender and 23.5" for the rear.

Last edited by jeff_jeep; 12-19-2015 at 06:57 AM.
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post #22 of 164 Old 12-19-2015, 03:55 AM Thread Starter
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lift

I see this is a little complicated.
http://www.myjeeplj.com/helpful-wran...gler-lift.html

Seems to me that I really need to figure out if I have any kind of lift on this vehicle. If I have 2" lift and I order 0", stock size shocks; I'm pretty much going to have to return the shocks aren't I ? I certainly don't want to have to get into removing lifts from springs if they're on there.
I guess I just want confirmation that this is as important as it appears to be.
I didn't know there were multiple types of lift including body lift. That url shows a nice photo for measuring the spring height, but I can't imagine how to see it that way when it's not up on a lift. Guess I'll be doing some crawling around when the sun comes up.
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post #23 of 164 Old 12-19-2015, 04:36 AM
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That is just your normal shock mount. If your looking for a spacer lift it will look like this. I have the Taraflex Spacer BB on mine. The Orange is the TF pad and the yellow is the stock spring pad.

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post #24 of 164 Old 12-19-2015, 05:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08JKUR33 View Post
That is just your normal shock mount. If your looking for a spacer lift it will look like this. I have the Taraflex Spacer BB on mine. The Orange is the TF pad and the yellow is the stock spring pad.

Hey, thanks very much for the photo; that always helps.
I'm going to post photos of mine in a sec. Looks all stock to me.
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post #25 of 164 Old 12-19-2015, 05:06 AM Thread Starter
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My springs and body mounts.
I don't see anything extra on the springs. The mounts
I'm not sure about but would seem to be normal.

Last edited by jeff_jeep; 12-19-2015 at 07:27 AM.
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