Ford Dana 60 Conversion Steering Solution - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 10-06-2015, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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Ford Dana 60 Conversion Steering Solution

At RPMFAB we converted our Company JK AKA "The Jolly Rancher" to 1 tons. We used the Artec conversion truss kits and found a 2005 Dana 60 and 2005 14 bolt.

After the install we had some challenges with finding ANY available steering options worth using. SO we built a Heim system like everyone else....But just like everyone else we hated the loose wondering set up.

So what to do...develop a kit and solution for these conversions. We use 1.25" shank offset TRE's with a cartridge system, combined with 2" solid 7075 Aircraft aluminum center sections. We use a Reid Knuckle (included) and an Artec Hi Steer arm. Here are some pictures of the set up.Name:  Jk Dana 60 Steering conversion.jpg
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post #2 of 18 Old 10-07-2015, 07:30 AM
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Looks like currie ends with an aluminum center. Currie ends suck imo. GM off set TRE's work find and are about 1/8 the cost of the curries. Ruff stuff uses them in their 1 ton kit, not sure why you could not find it and its only $125.

The links are pretty though and would be great for someone with a mall crawler and too much money. OR the SEMA crowd.

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post #3 of 18 Old 10-07-2015, 09:05 AM
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Love the build.

Have you thought about using the Rock Krawler Pro Tie Rod ends?



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post #4 of 18 Old 10-07-2015, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
Looks like currie ends with an aluminum center. Currie ends suck imo. GM off set TRE's work find and are about 1/8 the cost of the curries. Ruff stuff uses them in their 1 ton kit, not sure why you could not find it and its only $125.

The links are pretty though and would be great for someone with a mall crawler and too much money. OR the SEMA crowd.
These are the same ends that Currie uses in their kit, they buy them from the same company we do. The challenge is that with the Ford Knuckles you cannot use a GM 1 ton tapers unit. The Ford 60 has proprietary taper and hole sizing.
Most guys are just running Heim systems like we started with. We mill and sleeve the knuckles to accept a 3/4 straight shank. These are far from Mall Crawler parts. These are 2" 7075 solid aircraft aluminum, they have memory and will pop right back under flex. Try that with ANY steel tie rod!

As far as Ruff stuff ends are concerned they are great and we use them on our 1.5" JK aluminum tie rod/drag kit. But they will not work for this application from a taper standpoint as well as the shear weight of this axle with 40's. IMO

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post #5 of 18 Old 10-07-2015, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slippery View Post
Love the build.

Have you thought about using the Rock Krawler Pro Tie Rod ends?

Still a Heim and prone to wear fast. We wanted to stay away from Heim joints period on our steering. We are a RK dealer but again IMO and experience with a daily trail rig I avoid Heims

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post #6 of 18 Old 10-07-2015, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPMFAB View Post
We use a Reid Knuckle (included) and an Artec Hi Steer arm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RPMFAB View Post
The challenge is that with the Ford Knuckles you cannot use a GM 1 ton tapers unit. The Ford 60 has proprietary taper and hole sizing.
But you arent using Ford knuckles


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post #7 of 18 Old 10-07-2015, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ALASHA View Post
But you arent using Ford knuckles
The Reid knuckle and the Ford knuckle are the same Tie rod double Ford taper. Basically we could mill, sleeve and then taper to accommodate a 7/8-18 offset 1 ton TRE. BUT with the weight of this axle combined with a 40" tire I would much rather trust this set up on the rocks.

SURE you can build a "just enough" rig...BUT that is not how we build here. We believe in over building everything because "just enough" is sometimes "not enough"

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post #8 of 18 Old 10-07-2015, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPMFAB View Post
These are the same ends that Currie uses in their kit, they buy them from the same company we do. The challenge is that with the Ford Knuckles you cannot use a GM 1 ton tapers unit. The Ford 60 has proprietary taper and hole sizing.
Most guys are just running Heim systems like we started with. We mill and sleeve the knuckles to accept a 3/4 straight shank. These are far from Mall Crawler parts. These are 2" 7075 solid aircraft aluminum, they have memory and will pop right back under flex. Try that with ANY steel tie rod!

As far as Ruff stuff ends are concerned they are great and we use them on our 1.5" JK aluminum tie rod/drag kit. But they will not work for this application from a taper standpoint as well as the shear weight of this axle with 40's. IMO
So you are drilling the knuckle and using a tapered sleeve to use the ends or are you saying you are buying those ends with no taper?
I have a currie rod in the garage and it uses the same taper a the ruff stuff which has been "good enough" for rock crawling and 40's. They actually have help up better then the curry ends that are prone to bending in the treaded section and the cap above the ball is weak and prone to doming causing slop in the ball and socket.

Some build info here:
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post #9 of 18 Old 10-08-2015, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
So you are drilling the knuckle and using a tapered sleeve to use the ends or are you saying you are buying those ends with no taper?
I have a currie rod in the garage and it uses the same taper a the ruff stuff which has been "good enough" for rock crawling and 40's. They actually have help up better then the curry ends that are prone to bending in the treaded section and the cap above the ball is weak and prone to doming causing slop in the ball and socket.
We are milling and sleeving the knuckles to a straight 3/4" We are NOT using the taper ends from the supplier. We are using the 3/4" straight ends. We have not seen that kind of damage yet to these ends.

Again we are a Ruff Stuff dealer and we use their ends on our 1.5" 7075 aluminum drag/ tie rod combo and they work great. Just curious what axle you are running up front?

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post #10 of 18 Old 10-08-2015, 10:01 PM
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Pro rock 60. Ruff stuff tie rod.

Some build info here:
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post #11 of 18 Old 10-09-2015, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
Pro rock 60. Ruff stuff tie rod.
Very nice, I am curious why you needed the offset ends? We just built a ProRock JK and after several bent steel tie rods we built him an Aluminum tie rod, however we did not need offset ends on it. We used MOOG 1 ton straight ends.

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post #12 of 18 Old 10-09-2015, 09:06 AM
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clearance for steering assist cylinder clamp.

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post #13 of 18 Old 10-09-2015, 09:39 AM
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I may not be the most savvy off road guy out there, but I have used the RPM fab stuff and have not found it to be cheap or junk, in any way. They do take the time, and effort, to make things right. I would be comfortable with anything that they did for me.
However, if you want to go cheap, you might not want to use their stuff. There is definite value, but their value is far and away better than anything I have seen. But then, I have only been wheeling since 84 and this is my first jeep. Its like a flyweight compared to some of the stuff I have driven.
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post #14 of 18 Old 10-09-2015, 12:29 PM
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Who said they had cheap junk?

Some build info here:
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post #15 of 18 Old 10-12-2015, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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Who said they had cheap junk?
I don't think it was stated that we had junk. I think the comment that my steering was for Sema and Mall Crawlers hit a nerve!!! LOL

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post #16 of 18 Old 10-12-2015, 08:28 PM
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Sema builders and mall crawlers money spends just like everyone else's, if it were not for them many would not make it in this industry.

You should list the weight of the aluminum tie rods and tout the benefit of the weight savings. Maybe the lighter weight will keep those joints from flopping around or do you include a spacer to prevent the joints from flopping?

Some build info here:
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post #17 of 18 Old 10-22-2015, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
Sema builders and mall crawlers money spends just like everyone else's, if it were not for them many would not make it in this industry.

You should list the weight of the aluminum tie rods and tout the benefit of the weight savings. Maybe the lighter weight will keep those joints from flopping around or do you include a spacer to prevent the joints from flopping?
Dirtman, I spoke with my supplier of the TRE's on this set up. They would like to look at the bent and broken units if you still have them. They state that they have not seen the issue first hand. I would laso like to see them as up to this point I have not seen issues with mine but I am curious to see what I might expect.

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post #18 of 18 Old 10-23-2015, 07:49 AM
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I will be glad too. I am moving next month and everything is packed up right now. When I come across the ends I will post up.

Some build info here:
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