Ford 3/4 ton dana 44 and 60 worth it? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 08-06-2015, 05:09 AM Thread Starter
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Ford 3/4 ton dana 44 and 60 worth it?

Hello all!

Long time reader, first time poster.

I have a 2013 jku sport on 35's, with currently no axle upgrades. The goal would be to stay on 35's for some time, ultimately ending up on 37's.

I have access to a fairly cheap set of 1978 or 79 Ford 3/4 ton axles. A high pinion, 8 lug Dana 44 and an 8 lug, full float Dana 60 rear. I am not set on these axles at all, but they do satisfy some wants I had for 37's: bigger brakes, servicable wheel bearings, and a little more wms width. I haven't seen where these axles have been used on a swap, but my searching skills are exceptionally not good haha.

That being said, I know the jk dana 44 r&p is better than old school 44 axles. If I wanted to have the newer gear set badly enough, there is a swap kit to put those gears in older housings.

Are there downsides to using these axles? Getting tone rings cut for them? Rear axle diameter and front axle spline/diameter?

I would love a 60 and 14 bolt. Been there and done that. My axles at that time allowed me to have confidence running 44" tires. Trying to limit myself this time haha.

So, what say you for 37's? Is it smarter and more cost effective to just need up my stock rear end and buy a pro rock 44? Or use these older axles and get new wheels?

Any information is greatly appreciated!
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post #2 of 7 Old 08-06-2015, 08:50 AM
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If they are cheap enough the rear may be worth it, I wouldn't even bother with the front, just sell it.

I've torn up a stock D30 and an ARB locked Rubi D44 with 35's, so unless it's a 60 front I wouldn't waste the time/money on it.

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post #3 of 7 Old 08-06-2015, 07:00 PM
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I think your gonna get different answers from each person, I have my 44s built with 37s with no issues. I think it also depends on how you wheel
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post #4 of 7 Old 08-07-2015, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FuLcRuM View Post
If they are cheap enough the rear may be worth it, I wouldn't even bother with the front, just sell it.

I've torn up a stock D30 and an ARB locked Rubi D44 with 35's, so unless it's a 60 front I wouldn't waste the time/money on it.
details on how you broke the d44? i have a lot of confidence with my 35's on my pr44. im curious how yours busted

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post #5 of 7 Old 08-07-2015, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chknkatsu View Post
details on how you broke the d44? i have a lot of confidence with my 35's on my pr44. im curious how yours busted
07 Sahara No winch bumpers etc. 2.5" BB then upgraded to AEV3.5" springs. overall pretty light for a 4 door.

Basically busted all the teeth off the ring gear. I drove on it for over a year and put 2 wheeling trips on it before I finally opened it up and found the problem. I thought it was my RCV's clicking since it only did it when turning.





I was told it was most likely poor install of the gears, but I did wheel the piss out of that thing as well.

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post #6 of 7 Old 08-09-2015, 07:56 AM
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imo, use that HP44 and do chromo shafts. get rid of the D60 and do a 14b

I wheeled a D44/9" combo for years on 37s with very little issues under a heavy rig. was only a 4.3 v6 though (enough to break things, but not a ton of whoopow)



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post #7 of 7 Old 08-10-2015, 10:13 AM
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Double check the tube thickness of the ford 44. 78/9 were the only 2 years they offered 1/2" thick tubes. Even if you didnt use it but could get it cheap its good to have for trading material and desireable for someone not wanting/needing to go 1 ton
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