Tie Rod End? Busted at 8000 miles - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 04-25-2010, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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Tie Rod End? Busted at 8000 miles

Ok pictures below. I think this is called the tie rod end. It is the end on the drag link at the pitman arm. I have no idea how the rubber boot busted or tore. My RK track bar and drag link seem to be alligned well.

I have ordered a Rock Krawler drag link and from my understanding I will need 2 tie rod ends for it. Should I replace with factory parts or Moog?

I think the Moog part #'s are ES-194R, ES-195L.

Is this swap something I could do myself? I installed my RK 3.5 suspension myself so I am semi-confidant. I know I have read somewhere about the removal and instalation either using a tie rod puller or a BFH.

Am I on the right path and any suggestions please.
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post #2 of 18 Old 04-25-2010, 10:43 AM
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After taking off the nut, tap the pitman arm on the sides until the tie rod end pops loose.

Assuming the the RK drag link uses the stock tie rod ends, you should be able to pick one up at a dealership or auto parts store for 30-40 bucks.

Assuming it is the stock part and assuming it is the short, straight tie rod end (looks that way) MOPAR part # 1-52060049AE.
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post #3 of 18 Old 04-25-2010, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Ok that doesn't sound too difficult. I found the Moog TRE's for $30 and $40. Thanks for the info. Anybody have this same problem and figure out why it happened?

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post #4 of 18 Old 04-25-2010, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by jk_techcrash View Post
Ok that doesn't sound too difficult. I found the Moog TRE's for $30 and $40. Thanks for the info. Anybody have this same problem and figure out why it happened?
Flexing and turning at the same time. When your passenger tire drops to full droop it can pinch the rubber, then turning at the same time causes it to tear. Not a whole lot you can do about it. Just keep a spare on hand, even if that happens on the trail it should still get you home and you can just swap it out. In my book it is similar to u-joints, they fail, not much you can do about it. They are cheap so carry a spare.

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post #5 of 18 Old 04-25-2010, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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Flexing and turning at the same time. When your passenger tire drops to full droop it can pinch the rubber, then turning at the same time causes it to tear. Not a whole lot you can do about it. Just keep a spare on hand, even if that happens on the trail it should still get you home and you can just swap it out. In my book it is similar to u-joints, they fail, not much you can do about it. They are cheap so carry a spare.
That makes perfect sence because I recently had the sway bar disconnected and was making a sharp turn. Sucks but I guess it could be worse. Thanks brother.

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post #6 of 18 Old 04-26-2010, 01:29 AM
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Good fix would be pick up a ES2027 1-ton DLE. It may have a larger range of motion and they are $20 with free replacement. You will have to open up your Pitman arm to accept ther larger taper.

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post #7 of 18 Old 04-26-2010, 01:21 PM
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If the rod end is still tight, you can still use it.
Go to a bike shop and ask them for a "Lizard Skin" headset sleeve. It's a neoprene sleeve that velcro's around the headset of a mountain bike. It fits nicely over a torn tie rod end boot and will keep the crap out and the grease in.

ALSO...
If you ordered the RK Drag Link... you only need ONE OEM-Style tie rod end. You can re-use the one at the pitman arm. And you don't need to remove it. Just thread the OEM drag link off (leaving the rod end on the pitman arm), then thread the RK Drag Link onto it. You will use the NEW rod end at the knuckle.

If you ordered the RK Tie Rod... you will need 2 more OEM-Style rod ends.

Last edited by Co4Lo; 04-26-2010 at 01:34 PM.
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post #8 of 18 Old 04-26-2010, 01:29 PM
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post #9 of 18 Old 04-26-2010, 06:53 PM
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Its just the boot, no need to freak out and buy a whole new steering assy.
If there's an Autozone in your area they stock energy suspension parts and they have polyurathane tierod end boots. There under $10 if i remember correctly and you wont tear it up.
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post #10 of 18 Old 04-26-2010, 07:06 PM
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yeah but those 10 dollar boots do some severe cracking within a week, cheap worthless rubber. I like the bike thing Idea.

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post #11 of 18 Old 04-26-2010, 07:47 PM
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One thing that I learned from my superhero brother, PBach, is to spray WD40 or Tri-flow lubricant on the cheap rubber boots once in a while. Seems to slow the cracking process significantly.
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post #12 of 18 Old 04-26-2010, 08:00 PM
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techcrash, what alerted you to the problem? Mine's making a hell of a racket at low speed turns, like parking lots.

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post #13 of 18 Old 04-28-2010, 05:21 AM Thread Starter
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techcrash, what alerted you to the problem? Mine's making a hell of a racket at low speed turns, like parking lots.
Well noises much like what you are having. I have high curb when pulling into my driveway and we have a narrow street so it at times can be a tight turn and I heard metal to metal cluck noises, besides the stupid door latches,. I crawled under and started yanking on stuff and then saw the torn rubber. At first I was like a teenaged boy who broke his first "rubber" but after reading these post and some research I'm feeling much better.

Well, I did order and pay for a new RK draglink BUT....... There is a problem with the company I bought it from. I will give the owner of that company one more day to resolve this problem before I go any further. ( I hijacked my own thread) Thanks for the good intel.

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post #14 of 18 Old 04-29-2010, 07:30 AM
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Who did you purchase it through? We certainly would be interested in hearing this and getting you taken care of.

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post #15 of 18 Old 04-29-2010, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Who did you purchase it through? We certainly would be interested in hearing this and getting you taken care of.

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I sent you a pm. Will post up later today the full story.

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post #16 of 18 Old 04-29-2010, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09rubicon View Post
Flexing and turning at the same time. When your passenger tire drops to full droop it can pinch the rubber, then turning at the same time causes it to tear.
X2 They can also get snagged just from drooping the front end.

Swapping it out yourself is a piece of cake. If you can install a lift you can most definitely change a rod end.

High steer will reduce the angle there a little and minimize torn boots.
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post #17 of 18 Old 04-29-2010, 09:15 AM
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techcrash, what alerted you to the problem? Mine's making a hell of a racket at low speed turns, like parking lots.
Grease the rod ends and you will get rid of the noise and make them last longer. Use a grease gun needle adapter, pierce the boot and fill it with grease, it will work it's way around over the ball. Alternatively drill and tap the cap and drop in a zirc.
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post #18 of 18 Old 04-29-2010, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Phil for the advise. You are right, I am gonna do it. Thanks

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