Difference in Powder Coating VS Winter - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 06-21-2015, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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Difference in Powder Coating VS Winter

I know nothing about powder coating, and to be honest, I usually just paint every thing myself with a rattle can. Living in Canada, and more precisely Quebec, I usually have to repaint everything that is not factory each Spring. (Yay road salt )

Basically anything that I've installed in the last year or two that had powder coating on started flaking (RK arms and coils, Teraflex Tire Carrier, PSC light mounts, and I'm probably missing other stuff..) Everything... BUT the Synergy stuff... My drag link and shock relocation bracket still look almost brand new.

Around here, we often joke that parts from the US are not designed to resist winter... anyways, props to Synergy for the awesome powder coating. One less thing to repaint!
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post #2 of 14 Old 06-22-2015, 09:44 AM
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It really depends on the type of powdercoat, like all paints. I have front and rear LoD bumpers that I paid extra money to have painted in zinc enhanced powedercoat to help resist Ohio winters. After four winters, they only have very minimal rust on the sharp corners of the bumpers.

Wrangler Mountain Edition

Rock Krawler Synergy JKS LoD Goodyear
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post #3 of 14 Old 06-22-2015, 10:52 AM
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Every powdercoated thing I've bought in the last several years has been complete crap. I'm sick of it.

My steps (Tomken), fenders (MetalCloak), bumpers (AEV, EVO and a couple others), et al. have began chipping and rusting almost immediately after installation.

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'76 CJ-7, '43 CJ-2a, '78 Bronco,'78 CJ-7, '75 CJ-5, '78 CJ-7, '80 CJ-7, '78 SJ, '79 SJ, '78 and a '76 FJ-40 , '90 XJ, '91 XJ, '86 CJ-7, '95 ZJ, '68 CJ-101 Commando, '00 TJ, '68 M-715, 2 '86 Military Blazers, '96 LR Discovery, '86 CJ-7, '91 YJ, '99 TJ, 07' JKU Rubi, 1988 YJ, 1973 Commando, 3 Diesel Excursions....
Now back to a 2013 JKU Rubicon with "stuff", planning 37's with minimal lift.

I've tried them all... Jeeps are still the best. (0||||0)
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post #4 of 14 Old 06-22-2015, 10:55 AM
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Yes, many different types of powder coat, some will resist better then others.
Prep is also important, if you don't properly clean the parts first it won't stick.

Jeepless
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post #5 of 14 Old 06-22-2015, 10:04 PM
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Best powdercoating that I have ever seen on a bumper: ARB. No others have come close.
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post #6 of 14 Old 06-23-2015, 04:08 AM
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True. Synergy tie rod and drag link powder coat is great. If only it could resist scratching from rocks
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post #7 of 14 Old 06-23-2015, 05:51 AM Thread Starter
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If you are rubbing your drag link on rocks, you're doing it wrong.. or right, depends on the point of view I guess!

It's just slightly frustrating the be repainting half the Jeep every year.
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post #8 of 14 Old 06-23-2015, 06:06 AM
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Drag link is fine- tie rod is scratched!
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post #9 of 14 Old 06-23-2015, 08:06 AM
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local 4x4 shop that races buggies in many of the major events across the country HATE powder coating. it looks great but does not hold up. so unless you are stripping parts and powder coating every year they recommend against it. this may be why i am seeing more and more rigs run bare metal. they recommend Por15 and use it religiously. they coated my axles with it after i had them armored up. turned out great and holding up just fine.

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post #10 of 14 Old 06-23-2015, 09:10 AM
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We too are seeing it. Especially after these last two really harsh winters up here. We are testing E coat then a powder coat over the top.

Powder coating for all intensive purposes is like a shrink wrapped vinyl. Rock salt or sand or mag chloride slinging off the tires or simply blasting the powder coating parts will eventually chip away (again, think shrink wrapped vinyl). It is especially difficult on laser cut edges that are not properly prepped because of the plasma slag on the edges. When we get bumpers in and stuff for our show rigs we generally flap disk all the laser cut edges to knock it off to get better powder coating adhesion. All the cool emblems and stuff cut into sheetmetal are a pain in the butt to get the powder to stick...

RK
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post #11 of 14 Old 06-23-2015, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalearyous View Post
local 4x4 shop that races buggies in many of the major events across the country HATE powder coating. it looks great but does not hold up. so unless you are stripping parts and powder coating every year they recommend against it. this may be why i am seeing more and more rigs run bare metal. they recommend Por15 and use it religiously. they coated my axles with it after i had them armored up. turned out great and holding up just fine.
Por15 is tough stuff. Had some left over after coating the inside of a few body panels, so I brushed it on a couple tools laying around. One was a hammer. It's held up great............on a hammer.

Kevin
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post #12 of 14 Old 06-24-2015, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock Krawler Suspension View Post
We too are seeing it. Especially after these last two really harsh winters up here. We are testing E coat then a powder coat over the top.

Powder coating for all intensive purposes is like a shrink wrapped vinyl. Rock salt or sand or mag chloride slinging off the tires or simply blasting the powder coating parts will eventually chip away (again, think shrink wrapped vinyl). It is especially difficult on laser cut edges that are not properly prepped because of the plasma slag on the edges. When we get bumpers in and stuff for our show rigs we generally flap disk all the laser cut edges to knock it off to get better powder coating adhesion. All the cool emblems and stuff cut into sheetmetal are a pain in the butt to get the powder to stick...

RK
I have had similar experiences with any part I purchased that comes powder coated. Most vendors try to reduce costs to maximize profits. So they skimp on the powdercoat. Now I buy everything bare and have it powder coated by a local shop I trust. Prep is the first step. They sand blast bare metal - always. As RK mentioned the plasma slag on any laser cut edge will eventually chip or fall off, taking the powder coat with it. Next step is an acid bath to make sure the metal is completely clean and free of any contaminants. I always use a two step powder coat. For steel, a zinc primer base and then a color top coat. For aluminum, a color coat followed by a clear coat.

Does it cost more to have someone do it right? Yes. But my powdercoated parts look great 3 years later, and that includes exposure to MgCl. I have zero issues with any of my locally powder coated parts. And if I did, I am pretty confident my guy would stand behind them. That is the way he operates.

If you want good results, find a local powder coater and talk to them about their process.
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post #13 of 14 Old 06-25-2015, 09:04 AM
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Prep is definitely important. We clean and have recently made some updates to our out gassing procedure for our bars and stuff made in house.

We are watching this thread just to see where it goes. E coat can be nice too...

RK
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post #14 of 14 Old 06-25-2015, 09:40 AM
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Up in our corner of the country, we get hammered every year with salt as soon as the snow flies. It royally sucks. I'm routinely underneath my Jeep touching up the frame, components, etc. I'm thinking that the next step is to really treat the frame to some POR15 to see if that will last a little longer. It's not cheap, but now is the time to do it, before it gets cold and wet again. Has anyone ever tried it on bumpers and such? If it works well, I would use it on my front BFH. The paint I put on that at Christmas didn't last more than a month before it got bad looking.

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