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post #1 of 11 Old 06-13-2015, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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2 questions if you would be so kind

First. I have a 3.5" RK XFactor lift installed and it seems like the rear springs look curved rather than straight. I have to assume that isnt a good thing? I mean instead of looking like they are in a straight line they have a bit of a curve to them and they make a pretty noticeable sound when I compress them quickly. Any solutions for this other than take it back to where the lift was put on? Something that maybe was missing on install that you can think of?

Second. I am running 37s with the above lift. I have stubbied my front bumper to solve clearance issues there and recently put on the ACE rear bumper and tire carrier. Now my issue is the inner fender liner on the rear wheel well. Solutions that you guys recommend? I mean I know I can just take a sawzall to it but I mean, run with it, run without it, cut it, or replace with something else?

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post #2 of 11 Old 06-13-2015, 11:39 PM
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your axle is pushed back so now the springs don't line up where they did from the factory - not a big deal but if you care get correction wedges, cheap fix...otherwise don't worry about it mine have been that way for a couple years

solutions for your fender liner are to cut it or replace it. Personally I'm still on the fence about aftermarket alum fenders. I'd trim them for now and decide after, but do check your bumpstops.
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post #3 of 11 Old 06-14-2015, 02:17 AM
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On the inner fender, how bad does it rub? If it's just a light rub, ignore it until you decide whether to trim your fenders, or replace them with whatever. If you trim or replace your fenders with flats of some description, I would recommend removing the inner altogether. If you don't like the unfinished look of the paint under the liner, just scuff the surface of the wheel well with red scotchbrite and spray in some Rustoleum Truck Bed Coating. Mine has been very durable -- only a few small chips on the edges of pinch seams, etc. easy and cheap to touch up when you need to as well.

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post #4 of 11 Old 06-14-2015, 12:57 PM
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2 questions if you would be so kind

What does your pinion angle look like?
Are the ends of the coils facing the rear?

I would just remove the rear liner. Unlike the front it doesn't really protect anything.

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #5 of 11 Old 06-15-2015, 09:26 AM
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Chris I second what KJeeper just said. Get me some pics of the pinion angle in the rear in relation to the ground and shoot me some pics of the coils.

The wedges should have the fat part to the back and the pinion should be a couple degrees below the driveshaft instead of pointed directly at it.

That being said, the coils are going to have a little bow in them with the X-Factor. It is alarming if you've never seen it, but there is no problem with a slight bow in them. Many vehicles come with an alarming bow in the coils (See Ford Super Duty and Ram 2500) but thats how they are designed to operate.

If you need me you know the number!

On the rear liners just take a box cutter and slowly slice away what is rubbing for right now. If you don't remove the stock flare and trim it down its a hassle to get the liner out and it looks cleaner with it in there on a Jeep with factory flares.

Marcus


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post #6 of 11 Old 06-15-2015, 09:31 AM
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Also, make sure the small coil winding ends towards the rear of the vehicle at the axle.... Do not hesitate to give us a shout. Most of the bow you are experiencing is not from the axle being slid back a little bit, it is actually pinion rotation which is very common to the industry...


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post #7 of 11 Old 06-27-2015, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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Assuming I am doing this right here is a pic. I can get more later...

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post #8 of 11 Old 06-28-2015, 01:21 AM
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2 questions if you would be so kind

Pinion angle and are you running the correction wedges?

Example.

http://i1031.photobucket.com/albums/...psxh7gzhyr.jpg

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers

Last edited by kjeeper10; 06-28-2015 at 01:26 AM.
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post #9 of 11 Old 06-28-2015, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJBeavJK View Post
First. I have a 3.5" RK XFactor lift installed and it seems like the rear springs look curved rather than straight. I have to assume that isnt a good thing? I mean instead of looking like they are in a straight line they have a bit of a curve to them and they make a pretty noticeable sound when I compress them quickly. Any solutions for this other than take it back to where the lift was put on? Something that maybe was missing on install that you can think of?

Second. I am running 37s with the above lift. I have stubbied my front bumper to solve clearance issues there and recently put on the ACE rear bumper and tire carrier. Now my issue is the inner fender liner on the rear wheel well. Solutions that you guys recommend? I mean I know I can just take a sawzall to it but I mean, run with it, run without it, cut it, or replace with something else?
did you not have these mentioned by the sales person or see them on the web store when you bought the lift? Regardless of that, these will eliminate your Coilspring bowing from the extra distance your rear axle spring perches are now from the OEM position and why they sit angled in that manner....

second question: answer


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post #10 of 11 Old 06-28-2015, 07:06 AM
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IF you can weld or have access to a welder cut the perches loose and rotate them so they are in alignment with the uppers and weld them back on.

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post #11 of 11 Old 06-28-2015, 08:50 AM
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^ yes, that is the ideal way to fix coil bow. JKS manufacturing makes a bolt on perch for easy install.

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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