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post #1 of 19 Old 05-26-2015, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Tie rod ends

So ..my tie rod and drag link need to be replaced according to 4 wheel part shop..I did have a lift and 35' tire installed on my jku.. and they can't get the alignment to work.
(the thing is my jeep have only 12k miles on it...)

is it OK to replace the tie rod ends only and keep the original rod and drag link rod for now ..the shop told me that I need to replace the whole thing...they are $#%&&^&&&(()(%#! of it...
I will be replacing the whole tie rod and drag link when funds will be available
should I go with Moog or you guys recommend any thing else...
thanks for the help.
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post #2 of 19 Old 05-26-2015, 10:02 PM
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how much lift do you have and what lift - IE adjustable control arms, control arm brackets, or just stock.

Also, what about the alignment couldn't the get - castor or toe in?

The only thing they need to get right is castor. the tie rod they wouldn't need to touch and the drag link only needed to be adjusted to get the steering wheel straight.

Don't go back to that shop, and I wouldn't make a new tie rod or drag link a priority. I have had a synergy drag link with new moog joints, flip kit with track bar bracket in my garage sitting for over a year...35s & a 3.5" lift and no issue.
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post #3 of 19 Old 05-26-2015, 10:12 PM
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+1 on Synergy. IIRC you can only replace one side for the tie rod and and drag link anyway.

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post #4 of 19 Old 05-26-2015, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lkjk View Post
how much lift do you have and what lift - IE adjustable control arms, control arm brackets, or just stock.

Also, what about the alignment couldn't the get - castor or toe in?

The only thing they need to get right is castor. the tie rod they wouldn't need to touch and the drag link only needed to be adjusted to get the steering wheel straight.

Don't go back to that shop, and I wouldn't make a new tie rod or drag link a priority. I have had a synergy drag link with new moog joints, flip kit with track bar bracket in my garage sitting for over a year...35s & a 3.5" lift and no issue.
I have 2.5 teraflex suspension lift with rancho 9000 shock ..rock krowler adjustable track bar. and rancho adjustable brackets.
the jeep pull to the left and I had the tires balanced and rotate before i went back to 4 wheel parts..but I guess they just wanna sell me more of what I need.
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post #5 of 19 Old 05-26-2015, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TRAUMAhead View Post
+1 on Synergy. IIRC you can only replace one side for the tie rod and and drag link anyway.
I can only feel a tiny movement when i hold the track bar and have some one turn the steering wheel fast ...slow movement won't do it.
the only thing I see that the jeep pull to the left .no noise or loss things.
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post #6 of 19 Old 05-26-2015, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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AND ISN'T THE TIE ROD AND DRAG LINK ADJUSTABLE?
and also the track bar too....
I thing they trying to play me...
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post #7 of 19 Old 05-27-2015, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lkjk View Post
how much lift do you have and what lift - IE adjustable control arms, control arm brackets, or just stock.

Also, what about the alignment couldn't the get - castor or toe in?

The only thing they need to get right is castor. the tie rod they wouldn't need to touch and the drag link only needed to be adjusted to get the steering wheel straight.

Don't go back to that shop, and I wouldn't make a new tie rod or drag link a priority. I have had a synergy drag link with new moog joints, flip kit with track bar bracket in my garage sitting for over a year...35s & a 3.5" lift and no issue.
lkjk... what moog part number do you have in the Synergy Draglink?
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post #8 of 19 Old 05-27-2015, 06:59 AM
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I remember trying to find tie rod ends to run with my 15" wheels. I finally found one. The thread matched but the taper was slightly off.

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #9 of 19 Old 05-27-2015, 09:15 AM
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I was under the impression that the factory ends do not come off of the tie rod. They are swaged in place. Thats why you have to replace the whole thing.

The drag link can be bought in 2 pieces, but again you cant JUST replace the ends.

Same with the track bar, not adjustable as far as I know thats why everybody sells brackets OR you replace with a fully adjustable track bar.
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post #10 of 19 Old 05-27-2015, 12:59 PM
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Here is another option for HD steering. https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?...&hsimp=yhs-002

But yes your stock parts and adjustable track bar should be more than enough to dial in that kit, unless they are frozen or worn out and then that is a different story.


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post #11 of 19 Old 05-27-2015, 01:52 PM
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Tie rod ends

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Originally Posted by rjacobs View Post
I was under the impression that the factory ends do not come off of the tie rod. They are swaged in place. Thats why you have to replace the whole thing.



The drag link can be bought in 2 pieces, but again you cant JUST replace the ends.



Same with the track bar, not adjustable as far as I know thats why everybody sells brackets OR you replace with a fully adjustable track bar.

The TR joint to pitman arm and DL joint to drivers side knuckle can be bought individually.
TR joint to pass knuckle is crimped in place although crown does sell it.
DL joint to pass knuckle is fixed and part of the bar.

The Stock pitman joint was used in the gen 1 RK tie rod and other aftermarket Applications.

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #12 of 19 Old 05-27-2015, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennH View Post
lkjk... what moog part number do you have in the Synergy Draglink?
I would call synergy, I just looked and it says "moog problem solver 68" and thats it - I took it out of the box and installed it on the drag link and don't have the box..

one of these - http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...r-tie-rod-ends
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post #13 of 19 Old 05-28-2015, 05:57 AM
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Stock tie rod ? if so, is it straight. Mine would bend like a wet noodle throwing off steering wheel, alignment, TC lights. went to aftermarket and never looked back

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post #14 of 19 Old 05-28-2015, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Update
did another front end alignment and this is the results


would an adjustable lower control arms fix this issue or do I need adjustable ball joints.

been told by the shop that my drag ling and tie rod are ok.
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post #15 of 19 Old 05-28-2015, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeman View Post
Update

did another front end alignment and this is the results





would an adjustable lower control arms fix this issue or do I need adjustable ball joints.



been told by the shop that my drag ling and tie rod are ok.

You can check the ball joints yourself by lifting the tires off the ground. Use something as a lever and pry up on the tire. Your tires will move up and down and make a clunking noise if the joints are worn. Worn ball joints can show in camber.

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #16 of 19 Old 05-28-2015, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
You can check the ball joints yourself by lifting the tires off the ground. Use something as a lever and pry up on the tire. Your tires will move up and down and make a clunking noise if the joints are worn. Worn ball joints can show in camber.
search google for "planman's dw diagnosis" and watch, as kjeeper10 referenced, someone use the leverage (via shovel/prybar/broomstick/hilift arm/etc...)method of diagnosing BJs failing and you'll be able to diag them yourself in minutes.


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post #17 of 19 Old 05-29-2015, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you guys for the help..but Can someone tell me if an adjustable lower control arms will fix this issue or do I need adjustable ball joints.
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post #18 of 19 Old 05-29-2015, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeman View Post
Thank you guys for the help..but Can someone tell me if an adjustable lower control arms will fix this issue or do I need adjustable ball joints.

The higher camber on the right side might be a bad ball joint. Replacing the joints should fix camber.
Caster looks fine.

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #19 of 19 Old 05-29-2015, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeman View Post
Thank you guys for the help..but Can someone tell me if an adjustable lower control arms will fix this issue or do I need adjustable ball joints.
adjustable control arms only set caster. Your's at ~5 degrees is good.

Camber could be ball joints or bent C's.

Toe is in the tie rod. I would think even if your ball joints were bad, toe would be pretty close.

Adjustable ball joints are not a good idea IMO. They simply mask another issue.
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