Currie AntiRock question - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 17 Old 05-19-2015, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Currie AntiRock question

I'm currently running stock suspension, but I won a Currie AntiRock front sway bar and want to install it. I know the threads on the included links would have to be cut in order to install them, but I do plan on lifting 2.5" in the future, so I don't want to cut them and then have to buy new ones after lifting. My question is, would a set of stock rear sway bar links be acceptable substitutes to the links that come with the kit? I have a set laying around that I would use. Thanks for any advice!

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post #2 of 17 Old 05-19-2015, 10:33 PM
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I don't see why it would not work, you might need to get longer bolts to get through the non Antirock links. The only thing you would have to cut is the link rods which should not cost much to replace. Just know you will get quite a bit of body roll compared to the stock sway bar. I run the Antirocks and have no issue but my JK is a toy not a daily driver.
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post #3 of 17 Old 05-20-2015, 06:45 AM
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new center sections are $15 from Currie.

Cut away and when you eventually lift just order new center sections.
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post #4 of 17 Old 05-20-2015, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjacobs View Post
new center sections are $15 from Currie.

Cut away and when you eventually lift just order new center sections.
This.

Run it like its supposed to be installed. Changing it for more lift in the future is cheap and easy.


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post #5 of 17 Old 05-20-2015, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice!

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post #6 of 17 Old 05-20-2015, 10:45 AM
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If you have a bench vice and a tap you can make your own. Nothing special about them. I believe they are 1/2x20 threads.

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post #7 of 17 Old 05-20-2015, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by DOOKEY View Post
If you have a bench vice and a tap you can make your own. Nothing special about them. I believe they are 1/2x20 threads.
I hope you meant a die, not a tap.

and you would have as much in a single die as both of the rods as all the "cheap" dies I am seeing are 20-30 bucks. Left hand die is needed for half of the rod. Most people dont have a Left hand thread die sitting in their setup.


I could see this being a $50-70 project to make $30 worth or pre-made rods.
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post #8 of 17 Old 05-20-2015, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjacobs View Post
I hope you meant a die, not a tap.

and you would have as much in a single die as both of the rods as all the "cheap" dies I am seeing are 20-30 bucks. Left hand die is needed for half of the rod. Most people dont have a Left hand thread die sitting in their setup.


I could see this being a $50-70 project to make $30 worth or pre-made rods.
The whole point is that they aren't anything special. Some people think just because it is a Currie AntiRock that you have to purchase the Currie links. When most people can make them in their garage with hand tools.

You can't put a price tag on having your own tools and relying on yourself.

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post #9 of 17 Old 05-21-2015, 05:58 AM Thread Starter
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Took the advice and decided to do it right the first time! I cut 3/4" off both ends of each rod and my angles came out perfectly! Thanks again for the advice!




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post #10 of 17 Old 05-25-2015, 12:35 PM
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Nice job.what is the new setup feel like on the road? You will like not needing to disconnect when off road
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post #11 of 17 Old 05-25-2015, 10:52 PM
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My guess, he has more body roll. Interested to hear what he says.

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post #12 of 17 Old 05-27-2015, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry it took so long to reply. There is slightly more body roll, but it's not horrendous. It took a little getting used to in order to figure out where it starts to roll and how to compensate for it. I do tend to drive more aggressively than most, so this is probably the only reason I noticed it. On the flip side, there is noticeably more traction on the front wheels. I noticed by accident the other night, that on a freshly rain-soaked road, the back end will break loose a lot easier because of the added traction on the front. Mind you, this is ONLY when I gave it a "little extra" gas. It didn't break out driving as I normally would. The AntiRock system does a really good job keeping the front wheels on the ground!

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post #13 of 17 Old 05-28-2015, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott2373 View Post
Sorry it took so long to reply. There is slightly more body roll, but it's not horrendous. It took a little getting used to in order to figure out where it starts to roll and how to compensate for it. I do tend to drive more aggressively than most, so this is probably the only reason I noticed it. On the flip side, there is noticeably more traction on the front wheels. I noticed by accident the other night, that on a freshly rain-soaked road, the back end will break loose a lot easier because of the added traction on the front. Mind you, this is ONLY when I gave it a "little extra" gas. It didn't break out driving as I normally would. The AntiRock system does a really good job keeping the front wheels on the ground!
Scott, welcome to vehicle dynamics 101. Your actually lucky. You had a front row seat to making a single simple change and got to feel the results. That wouldn't have happen had you installed a complete suspension.

But, and it's a big but, what you felt isn't the front wheels being held to the ground better, you felt the result of the front wheels being held to the ground less, in simple terms. Swapping to the Currie bar lowered your front roll resistance (the combination of coil spring rate+bar rate), which also effected your F&R roll couple % (also known as Roll Couple Distribution). Lowering the front roll resistance is why you felt more body roll, the effect that had on the F&R roll couple % is why the rear end comes out easier. Simply put, it made the Jeep loose by making the rear end handle more weight transfer. Everything effects everything else.

Sway bars, anti roll bars, or just bars, what ever you want to call them, are just springs. They have a spring rate just like a coil spring. Though the bar spring rate is not factored in when figuring out, say, coilover spring rates, because coilover rates are figured for ride and not roll. Rates for sway bars are generally listed as Lbs @ x* of twist. The length of the arm comes into play too to give the final rate.

Quote:
Mind you, this is ONLY when I gave it a "little extra" gas. It didn't break out driving as I normally would.
What you describe here is snap oversteer and it's not a good thing on the street. Hell, it's not good almost anywhere and it will do it under braking too. The auto manufactures spend millions of dollars tuning vehicles to have a tendency towards understeer, Jeep included. Honestly, if your getting snap oversteer, and you drive it on the street a lot, I'd put the stock bar back on.


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post #14 of 17 Old 05-28-2015, 06:38 AM
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I'm looking to replace my electronic disconnect with a antirock since my jeep is not a daily driver, if you don't like it and interested in trading let me know or pm me
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post #15 of 17 Old 05-30-2015, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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That's some good info gt1guy. Thanks for the physics lesson! That right there is why I love these forums. There is limitless information to be learned! I was considering removing it, so funny you should mention that. First thing yesterday morning I did. I really do like the factory handling characteristics much more with the stock sway bar. Undecided on if I want to sell it. I definitely do not want to ship it, because it would cost a fortune to do so. If anyone in NY wants it, I suppose I'll take an offer.

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post #16 of 17 Old 05-31-2015, 03:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott2373 View Post
That's some good info gt1guy. Thanks for the physics lesson! That right there is why I love these forums. There is limitless information to be learned! I was considering removing it, so funny you should mention that. First thing yesterday morning I did. I really do like the factory handling characteristics much more with the stock sway bar. Undecided on if I want to sell it. I definitely do not want to ship it, because it would cost a fortune to do so. If anyone in NY wants it, I suppose I'll take an offer.
Scott,

I'm glad you removed it.

The Currie bars do have their place, it's just not on a stock Jeep. Generally folks install the Currie Anti-Rock after they have installed a lift AND raised their track bars. Raising the track bars raises the vehicle roll center at the end of the vehicle where you raised the track bar. Obviously, you have a F&R track bar, so you have a F&R roll center height. Draw a line between the two roll centers and that is your roll axis. As a general rule, a roll axis that trends down to the front will tend to favor understeer, a flat horizontal roll axis will be neutral, and a roll axis that trends down to the rear will tend to favor oversteer. This is just a very simple explanation. Now, you need to think of the roll center(or roll center axis) as the point at which the vehicle center of gravity (CG) pivots around in roll. A lower roll center has a much longer moment arm for the vehicle CG to work against. A higher roll center has a shorter moment arm. So raising the roll centers effectively adds geometric roll stiffness, and you can get away with running a lower rate bar like the Currie.

If you were to actually get your roll center heights at the same height as the CG, you wouldn't need anti-roll bars at all. You'd have essentially zero body roll.

One thing I always say is "Everything effects everything else", and it's so true.

So, the reason so many people love the anti-rocks, is because they have already set the Jeep up to use it, weather they knew it or not. You'd never get the stock bar to twist enough to handle the amount of flex guys are getting anyway. It's too stiff a rate and the arms are too short. You might get the up travel part, but the wheel in droop would just hang in mid air.

Hope this helps. As soon as I read your first post, I wanted to get my "he'll have more body roll" in before you gave the results. I knew what was going to happen. I just didn't think it would go as far as snap oversteer. I'm glad you took it off. Well, look at it this way. Now when you hear someone say they want to put a frame side drop track bar bracket on, you'll know why that is a very bad idea. That's actually lowering the roll center.

Kevin
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post #17 of 17 Old 05-31-2015, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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I knew from the very get-go that I would experience more body roll, but being a new toy, I had to play with it. Being a fellow Jeeper, I'm sure you get it. I do appreciate your explanation as to why that happens. Like G.I. Joe always said, "Knowing is half the battle"! At some point, I am going to lift the Jeep, but that's in the future when finances allow. It currently is listed for sale, but if it doesn't sell, maybe I'll throw it back on after the lift happens. Thanks again!

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Last edited by Scott2373; 06-02-2015 at 01:27 AM.
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