My 2 Door Subwoofer Ideas - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 04-13-2015, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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My 2 Door Subwoofer Ideas

Won't go into the limitations of the stock system. It's been beaten to death...

I've had a jeep with the upgraded system prior to the one I'm driving now. That has an 8 inch sub in a really crappy enclosure, powered by a so-so amp. And that was pretty much good enough for me, at least on its best days. So I figured an 8 inch sub would be fine this go around too, as it'll be in a better enclosure, with a better amp.

Looking for any and all feedback or better ideas.

My goal was to:
- keep the trunk space accessible/usable
- keep it as hidden as possible when topless (can only do so much)
- be lockable/securable
- stay away from tailgate mounting. i feel like that just has to be a rattle trap, or it just wouldnt sound as good. If I'm wrong, please post and let me know, I just wasn't really sold on the idea of it.

What I plan on installing (my head unit already has pre-outs)
- a single shallow mount Kicker 8" with dual 1 ohm voice coils, wired in series, 100-400 watts RMS (200 watts per coil)
- mono Alpine MRV-M500 500W amp
- the box I build (3/4 inch MDF)

The box should yield somewhere around .3 - .35 cubic ft, which is in the optimal range for the one I'm looking at. I'd really like to build it out of fiberglass and make it really look custom, but I've never dealt with that stuff and feel like I don't have the patience to learn for this one time. I also don't feel like paying a shit ton to have someone else do it. so...



I mocked up a box to test fit it, and looked at 2 different options. Here's the first:

Slightly angled down, to protect from rain (kind of), to downfire into the cab, and to be kind of less seen. There is an inch on each side between the edge of the speaker cutout and the box. Think this is enough?





needs to be brought in just a little to keep from interfering with the lid. my goal was to leave just enough room to lift up and slide the lid out. It doesn't need to open completely vertical.




Then I thought, why not just flip it around, angle the wedge side toward the seat, and have the sub fire toward the tailgate. The first option would require the removal of the sub (which i plan on making easy) in order to fold the seat. This method allows the box to stay when the seat is folded. I could also make it closer to the tailgate, which would make it harder to steal once I secure the box. I would trim the trunk lid down to where the sub overlaps, and stick the amp under the part of the lid that doesnt open (assuming I can keep it cool enough down there). I could also sneak it in the dead space between the right side of the box and the wheel wheel, and build a cover so you can't access it from the top. I would also build the box out a little more in this case.

Edit: I would probably raise the box in this configuration, and have it downfire, instead of toward the tailgate.




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Last edited by pizzaman; 04-13-2015 at 06:10 PM.
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post #2 of 13 Old 04-13-2015, 06:45 PM
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Before you decide on a box size, you need to run the T/S parameters of the woofer through a box program and make sure it can perform. As for your question, with 3/4" MDF having 1" along the edge of the box will be enough. Just use a good adhesive like PL Polyurethane construction adhesive. This will make the bond stronger than the MDF itself. An 8" woofer is a good choice, but don't over look multiple smaller woofers like the Tang Band W6-1139SIF. You can run 3 of them in 0.39 cu. ft. and get higher SPL than a single 8" woofer.
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post #3 of 13 Old 04-13-2015, 08:52 PM
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Or u could pick up a new style in the floor sub from a 2015. No cargo space loss besides the pocket under the floor. This is the route I'd like to go someday, when I get other more important mods knocked off the list.
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post #4 of 13 Old 04-13-2015, 09:04 PM
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I'm at the point where i'm considering completely reinforcing and glass'ing the front pods, install separates there with a robust bass/midbass driver. Fill, reinforce, and retain the coaxials in the bar or section in a separate fiberglass enclosure on the bar. Then, just drive the living shit out that setup without a sub. I get sick of my sub being in the way and then being useless with the top off. (It will be) I'm currently running a Polk DB DVC with a Fosgate R250-1 and it sounds great with the hardtop on, take it off, buh bye! I also have mine set up as a downfiring setup venting front/back.

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post #5 of 13 Old 04-14-2015, 06:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by family4x4 View Post
Or u could pick up a new style in the floor sub from a 2015. No cargo space loss besides the pocket under the floor. This is the route I'd like to go someday, when I get other more important mods knocked off the list.
My friend actually showed me a picture of that when I sent him my ideas. I hadn't seen the new stock location yet. I have seen some homemade ones that put a sub there, but I have a few issues with it:

- It a speaker sitting in what looks like a block of foam. No thanks.
- The other stock enclosures have been crazy expensive for no reason from MOPAR, I don't see this being any different
- stock components...well...suck. i could live with it from the factory, but to spend the money after the fact on a stock system seems silly.
- crappy location. Stack a bunch of stuff on top of it and either damage it or muffle it.
- sand, rain, etc falling down directly into it
- I still want my shitty small lockable storage area. That's what I meant by "trunk"


Edit: for those that haven't seen it


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Last edited by pizzaman; 04-14-2015 at 06:23 AM.
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post #6 of 13 Old 04-14-2015, 06:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKCTAZ View Post
I'm at the point where i'm considering completely reinforcing and glass'ing the front pods, install separates there with a robust bass/midbass driver. Fill, reinforce, and retain the coaxials in the bar or section in a separate fiberglass enclosure on the bar. Then, just drive the living shit out that setup without a sub. I get sick of my sub being in the way and then being useless with the top off. (It will be) I'm currently running a Polk DB DVC with a Fosgate R250-1 and it sounds great with the hardtop on, take it off, buh bye! I also have mine set up as a downfiring setup venting front/back.
Interesting take. Also sounds like way more than I want to do, but i guess that's what it takes.

I dynamatted the soundbar and stuffed the center of it with polyfill when I replaced the speakers up there. The dynamat was my attempt to help it sound a little better, the polyfill was to reduce the dome light vibration. Haven't touched the dash speakers yet.

Back in the day I had 2 10s downfiring in a sealed enclosure behind the backseat in my YJ. Back when I could give a shit less about cargo space. Those had no problems with the top off. Sure, it wasn't as loud, but it still sounded pretty good.

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post #7 of 13 Old 04-14-2015, 07:06 AM
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I did two layers of Damplifier Pro on the front pods internally with fiberfill, and two layers in the soundbar with fiberfill. I have heard that it helps to use expanding foam to seal off the two sections from each other so it's not a common space and won't leak air out of the dome light, I can see that probably being true.

Back when I had my TJ I had a JBL 10" DVC being driven off of a JL 500/1 and that mofo didn't care what was going on, it hammered. I have a few choice components laying around that would solve the bass problem if I didn't care about weight and cargo. I have a Pioneer GMD8500 Class D monoblock with an Infinity 1260 DVC, that would do the job.

I am going to start looking at what it would take to get the maximum amount of sound out of the stock speaker locations without a sub this summer. If that fails, I have a few other ideas kicking around in my melon for possible small enclosure sub locations that aren't conventional.

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post #8 of 13 Old 04-14-2015, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pizzaman View Post
My friend actually showed me a picture of that when I sent him my ideas. I hadn't seen the new stock location yet. I have seen some homemade ones that put a sub there, but I have a few issues with it:

- It a speaker sitting in what looks like a block of foam. No thanks.
- The other stock enclosures have been crazy expensive for no reason from MOPAR, I don't see this being any different
- stock components...well...suck. i could live with it from the factory, but to spend the money after the fact on a stock system seems silly.
- crappy location. Stack a bunch of stuff on top of it and either damage it or muffle it.
- sand, rain, etc falling down directly into it
- I still want my shitty small lockable storage area. That's what I meant by "trunk"


Edit: for those that haven't seen it


Out of the way, yes. Catch all for everything, yes. That sub would get full of everything being down there.

2010 2 door manual sport
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post #9 of 13 Old 04-14-2015, 07:47 AM
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I wanted to be able to fold the rear seat down, so I built this. I don't have any other pictures, but part of the box goes down into the storage compartment area to gain some more air space.




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post #10 of 13 Old 04-14-2015, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKCTAZ View Post
I'm at the point where i'm considering completely reinforcing and glass'ing the front pods, install separates there with a robust bass/midbass driver. Fill, reinforce, and retain the coaxials in the bar or section in a separate fiberglass enclosure on the bar. Then, just drive the living shit out that setup without a sub. I get sick of my sub being in the way and then being useless with the top off. (It will be) I'm currently running a Polk DB DVC with a Fosgate R250-1 and it sounds great with the hardtop on, take it off, buh bye! I also have mine set up as a downfiring setup venting front/back.
This isn't the worst of ideas. There are a lot of good options out there for killer 6.5" mids. CDT comes directly to mind, but Stereo Integrity recently released a new 6.5"woofer that play up to 2500hz and has 18mm total xmax. They're spendy, but should get the job done.

I think this thing is finally coming together. Still Needed: drive shafts, frame mount rails...then done son! For a while...
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post #11 of 13 Old 04-14-2015, 09:26 AM
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Certainly would be nice to get some decent xmax out of a 6.5 driver in a compact enclosure in the dash. There isn't enough room to suspend a mid in front of that driver to bring the soundstage out a little better with a three way x-over. That would be sweet!

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Some folks are fine with being screwed over, perhaps finding confrontation to be more stressful than just living with whatever the problem is. These are excellent consumers, manufactured to the finest specifications.
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post #12 of 13 Old 04-14-2015, 09:53 AM
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I thought I had pictures on here somewhere, but I can't find em, here is what my current setup looks like.





I still have my cubby packed full of tools.

Quote:
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Some folks are fine with being screwed over, perhaps finding confrontation to be more stressful than just living with whatever the problem is. These are excellent consumers, manufactured to the finest specifications.
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post #13 of 13 Old 04-14-2015, 01:36 PM
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Here's what I have installed in mine. I don't know the specifics of the box, because I bought it from the original owner. I absolutely love it though. Just wanted to help give you another idea if needed.



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