Won't go into the limitations of the stock system. It's been beaten to death...
I've had a jeep with the upgraded system prior to the one I'm driving now. That has an 8 inch sub in a really crappy enclosure, powered by a so-so amp. And that was pretty much good enough for me, at least on its best days. So I figured an 8 inch sub would be fine this go around too, as it'll be in a better enclosure, with a better amp.
Looking for any and all feedback or better ideas.
My goal was to:
- keep the trunk space accessible/usable
- keep it as hidden as possible when topless (can only do so much)
- be lockable/securable
- stay away from tailgate mounting. i feel like that just has to be a rattle trap, or it just wouldnt sound as good. If I'm wrong, please post and let me know, I just wasn't really sold on the idea of it.
What I plan on installing (my head unit already has pre-outs)
- a single shallow mount Kicker 8" with dual 1 ohm voice coils, wired in series, 100-400 watts RMS (200 watts per coil)
- mono Alpine MRV-M500 500W amp
- the box I build (3/4 inch MDF)
The box should yield somewhere around .3 - .35 cubic ft, which is in the optimal range for the one I'm looking at. I'd really like to build it out of fiberglass and make it really look custom, but I've never dealt with that stuff and feel like I don't have the patience to learn for this one time. I also don't feel like paying a shit ton to have someone else do it. so...
I mocked up a box to test fit it, and looked at 2 different options. Here's the first:
Slightly angled down, to protect from rain (kind of), to downfire into the cab, and to be kind of less seen. There is an inch on each side between the edge of the speaker cutout and the box. Think this is enough?
needs to be brought in just a little to keep from interfering with the lid. my goal was to leave just enough room to lift up and slide the lid out. It doesn't need to open completely vertical.
Then I thought, why not just flip it around, angle the wedge side toward the seat, and have the sub fire toward the tailgate. The first option would require the removal of the sub (which i plan on making easy) in order to fold the seat. This method allows the box to stay when the seat is folded. I could also make it closer to the tailgate, which would make it harder to steal once I secure the box. I would trim the trunk lid down to where the sub overlaps, and stick the amp under the part of the lid that doesnt open (assuming I can keep it cool enough down there). I could also sneak it in the dead space between the right side of the box and the wheel wheel, and build a cover so you can't access it from the top. I would also build the box out a little more in this case.
Edit: I would probably raise the box in this configuration, and have it downfire, instead of toward the tailgate.