Beef up the D30 or buy a ProRock 44 or Tera44 - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 16 Old 03-12-2015, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4
Feedback: 0 reviews
Question Beef up the D30 or buy a ProRock 44 or Tera44

I've been wanting to get gears and lockers installed in my Jeep but was wondering if I should dump money into the D30 or upgrade to a bigger axle. I plan on eventually running 37s, right now I have 35s. From doing some research some people say 37s, gears+lockers in a D30 are do-able and others seem to say that a locker in the D30 is no good. If I do beef up the D30 I would probably get new ball joints, gussets and truss. I figured I'd probably be spending around $1200 for the gears, lockers another $1500 and another $500 or so for the ball joints, gusset and truss then add $ for the labor.

What should I do??

2010 JKU Sport
RK 3.5 X-Factor w/ Bilstein 5100s
PS Bumpers, Ace Rock Rails, Evo Skids, PR44 5:38s...
jksilvergh0st is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 Old 03-12-2015, 02:31 PM
Rock God
 
Robnoxious1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Bakersfield CA
Posts: 620
Feedback: 0 reviews

I wouldnt run 37's on a 30 but a lot of people do on the internet. Ive never met anyone who does personally. I think a lot of it depends on where you wheel and personal driving style.

If I did have a 30 I would look at a used rubicon housing to truss and gusset unless I was going to lift over 3+inches. Then I would look at one of the caster corrected housings like a pr44 unlimited.
Robnoxious1 is offline  
post #3 of 16 Old 03-12-2015, 03:02 PM
JKO Addict!
 
ALASHA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 8,230
Feedback: 0 reviews

What is piece of mind worth to you?

Can you get away with 37s on a built D30 - sure but you will have to be an extra cautious type of driver.

That isn't to say a built 44 is indestructible on 37s but you can breathe a little easier with a PR44 under you.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
ALASHA is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 16 Old 03-12-2015, 03:13 PM
Granite Guru
 
Mason's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Warkworth, On
Age: 29
Posts: 360
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

The guy I bought my used 37s off wheeled all last year with a D30, and blew it up at the end of the year. He is currently building tons and going to put 42s under it for spring. I have a stock rubi axle and I'm going to run that as long as possible to since im going to be going tons and 40+ eventually and I know I can't get out of upgraded rubi axles what I put in them, so I'm going to run stock as long as possible.

2012 JKU Rubicon - Build Thread -
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Mason is offline  
post #5 of 16 Old 03-12-2015, 07:24 PM
Granite Guru
 
ResQteK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: San Angelo, TX
Age: 43
Posts: 342
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

If you are going to only run 37's then I would say spend the money and put a PR44 under the jeep. At minimum with the D30 you have to invest all the money for gears, lockers, truss, gussets, axle shafts. You may still end up blowing up your front axle. My rationale was that if I was content on 37's then spend all that money on a PR44 and be done with it. If you think that you may want bigger tires than 37's then you need to consider bigger axles. Either way I would not throw money at the D30 just in case you have to upgrade eventually anyway.

Rodney
Famous Last Words
"Here, hold my beer and watch this!!"
ResQteK is offline  
post #6 of 16 Old 03-12-2015, 08:56 PM
Rock God
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Peachland, Okanagan valley, BC
Posts: 1,060
Feedback: 0 reviews

I have a rubicon. D44 stock axle right. You know the tubes and c's and knuckles are the same as a d30 right. Well I sleeved and gusseted mine which wasn't much. After 60,000 miles I may have to go to a pro rock.

Now I just spring for a pro rock and swap stuff over. Anything I invested in just swaps over like the gears, rcv's, locker.

Now a D30 you could do the same as myself if you don't blow the gears up. And you would need axles cause stock won't be good enough for 37's. I broke mine. Plus your going to invest in a locker.

Then if fails structurally. Now the locker, gears, and axle shafts can't be used for a pro rock. What will you get to sell those used? Likely not much cause it's for a D30.

Do the smart thing. Put a locker in the rear. Save for a pro rock. Run the front till it dies. Then get the promo I and re gear.
Or get the prorock now.

Your choice. I don't recommend building a d30 due to the axle tubes and c's mainly, and secondly the experience people have had with the gears running bigger tires being a negative one.

JKUR auto | 5:38 | tires 36"x17 wheels 9"x4.5"bs | TF 6"| ASFIR bumpers, skids | SuperWinch EPi9.5 | RCV shafts | SC traildash | Xenon fenders | OBA York

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
JeepUpKeep37s is offline  
post #7 of 16 Old 03-13-2015, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4
Feedback: 0 reviews

Thanks for all your feedback guys! I may take asphalts advice and either lock the rear or blow my tax money on PR44. Now I have some tough decisions to make. I wish Northridge had a payment plan. I think Rebel Offroad has a layaway option where you can pay it off over 3months. Do you guys know of any other sites/vendors who may offer the same?

2010 JKU Sport
RK 3.5 X-Factor w/ Bilstein 5100s
PS Bumpers, Ace Rock Rails, Evo Skids, PR44 5:38s...
jksilvergh0st is offline  
post #8 of 16 Old 03-15-2015, 12:55 AM
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 163
Feedback: 0 reviews

If you are going to crawl rocks or push the limits the D30 is not a good choice with 37s. There isn't much you can do about the gears. You're not going to be real happy if you pump all that money into the D30 and it breaks. IMO, if the ProRock is an option for you then go that route.
spinlock is offline  
post #9 of 16 Old 03-18-2015, 09:43 PM
Granite Guru
 
HAFICON's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Age: 35
Posts: 201
Feedback: 0 reviews

I did both... Had my D30 built, then 18 months later it broke running 315/70/17 Duratracs at the time of the break the locker was not being used. So I bought a Pro Rock D44. One thing for sure, if you don't do it right the first time you will certainly get a second opportunity to spend you cash.

D30 with TnT Truss system, 4.88's, ARB outer tube seals.


How I fixed it for the 2nd time.


I have been asked WHY did you build a D30? Well I was under the impression that the only real problem was axle tubed and C bending so I fixed that. Was un-educated to the fact of pinion size in D30 vs. D44.
HAFICON is offline  
post #10 of 16 Old 03-19-2015, 06:55 PM
Granite Guru
 
Gojo03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Simpsonville SC
Age: 43
Posts: 126
Feedback: 0 reviews

I put a locker in my rear and didn't touch the D30. Found a Rubi D44 front and swapped it out. At least I felt good knowing I didn't touch the D30 and now have lockers in both. A buddy had his D30 built up and snapped some teeth off the ring gear like the pics above with 35s.

I would wheel that D30 and just save some cash. If you snap something on the trail and can't upgrade to the D44, just pick up another D30 for cheap and keep saving for the D44. I would give you my D30 just to get rid of it!
Gojo03 is offline  
post #11 of 16 Old 03-20-2015, 12:01 PM
Rock God
 
bthomas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: justin tx
Posts: 593
Feedback: 0 reviews

I just wish artecs kit to put super duty axles in was available a few years ago. I would have skipped a lot of b.s. Going thru building a 30, to building a prorock, and now wishing I had done a full float 60 from the get go
bthomas is offline  
post #12 of 16 Old 03-20-2015, 07:41 PM
DaK
Rock God
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 540
Feedback: 0 reviews

Don't build the 30. Either 44 will serve your needs just fine.
DaK is offline  
post #13 of 16 Old 03-21-2015, 12:56 PM
Granite Guru
 
SilverBulletJKU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 275
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

Go with the 44. It will definitely save you some cash and peace of mind like the others have said.
SilverBulletJKU is offline  
post #14 of 16 Old 03-22-2015, 09:42 AM
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Age: 39
Posts: 339
Feedback: 0 reviews

I've been running 37" MTR's on a stock Dana 30 with 3.73 gears. Yes, I wheel it.

I decided to keep the stock gearing for the simple reason that the ring gear is bigger and probably stronger than a 4.88 or 5.10.

I will be putting an Aussie Locker in soon and hopefully it will add even more strength by eliminating the spider gears.

The weak link is the axle shafts and u-joints.

Yes, they are bigger in a 44 but by how much really?

All this talk of go big or go home, you need a prorock 44 or 60 etc is ridiculous. Just go easy on it and you should be fine. Guys are blowing axles and u-joints on 44's too. If you're stupid, you'll break shit. If it's not your axles, it'll be your gears or something else. Look at the youtube videos of buggies hill climbing. They are beefed up and still manage to break stuff.

My theory is that I want my axle shafts and u-joints to be the weakest link. You won't get stranded, it's an easy trail fix and spares take up little room.

If I break a shaft, I'll know what the limit is and try and not push it any further.

If you know your equipment and it's limits, you should be ok. Keep your money for beer and gas!
Mtljeep is offline  
post #15 of 16 Old 03-23-2015, 07:53 PM
Granite Guru
 
HAFICON's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Age: 35
Posts: 201
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtljeep View Post
I've been running 37" MTR's on a stock Dana 30 with 3.73 gears. Yes, I wheel it.

I decided to keep the stock gearing for the simple reason that the ring gear is bigger and probably stronger than a 4.88 or 5.10.

I will be putting an Aussie Locker in soon and hopefully it will add even more strength by eliminating the spider gears.

The weak link is the axle shafts and u-joints.

Yes, they are bigger in a 44 but by how much really?

All this talk of go big or go home, you need a prorock 44 or 60 etc is ridiculous. Just go easy on it and you should be fine. Guys are blowing axles and u-joints on 44's too. If you're stupid, you'll break shit. If it's not your axles, it'll be your gears or something else. Look at the youtube videos of buggies hill climbing. They are beefed up and still manage to break stuff.

My theory is that I want my axle shafts and u-joints to be the weakest link. You won't get stranded, it's an easy trail fix and spares take up little room.

If I break a shaft, I'll know what the limit is and try and not push it any further.

If you know your equipment and it's limits, you should be ok. Keep your money for beer and gas!
That is what I though the OEM axle shaft would break first. Well you can see from the pictures above that was not the case. I was running deep cut 4.88s, clearly I am not on the bandwagon of go big or go home I went the suggested route and built the D30 TnT armor system that housing and C will never bend, OEM axle held up great. Ring and Pinion ultimate fail. You can look at it any way you want I know guys who has been running 37s on the OEM D30 for years and no breaks. But if I knew then what I know now I would have never of built the D30.
HAFICON is offline  
post #16 of 16 Old 03-23-2015, 08:37 PM
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Age: 39
Posts: 339
Feedback: 0 reviews

Do you think stock gearing is stronger due to ring size compared to your 4.88's?
Mtljeep is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome