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post #1 of 18 Old 03-06-2015, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Broken Bolt, need ideas

As seems to always be my luck I managed to break a bolt while replacing my EGR valve. The good news is that its the easier of the 2 to get to. The bad news is, is that it broke smooth just a tad inside the hole so there is no purchase point for a pick.

Has anybody ran into this or have any ideas how to get the broken bolt out with the limited working space available?

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post #2 of 18 Old 03-06-2015, 09:47 AM
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I have a couple of different Snap-on sets to remove broken bolts. One has reverse drill bits. Most of the bolts I've had to deal with come out when drilling them with the reverse bits.

Here is the set with the reverse bits: https://store.snapon.com/Combination...--P635425.aspx


I don't see the other set I have, but this has both: https://store.snapon.com/Combination...--P641428.aspx

The ones along the top in the sencond set work very well once a hole is drilled in the broken bolt.

You can probably find them cheaper somewhere other than Snap-on. If you are on a budget I would try and find reverse drill bits and start there.

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post #3 of 18 Old 03-06-2015, 09:58 AM
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Did it snap at egr housing or the engine side?
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post #4 of 18 Old 03-06-2015, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nj jk View Post
Did it snap at egr housing or the engine side?
Engine side. Which basically tells me I'm screwed.


The drill out idea would be nice except I cant get much more than a socket in that area.

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post #5 of 18 Old 03-06-2015, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D5Fire View Post
Engine side. Which basically tells me I'm screwed.


The drill out idea would be nice except I cant get much more than a socket in that area.
Rotary tool such as a Dremel with an extension and a 90 degree adapter on it?

edit: a flex extension I mean, they are usually 1 to 1-1/2 foot long or so, decently flexible

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post #6 of 18 Old 03-06-2015, 12:03 PM
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What about one of those dewalt 90degree drill adapters?

This one isn't dewalt, but you get the picture.


adapter

I think this thing is finally coming together. Still Needed: drive shafts, frame mount rails...then done son! For a while...
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post #7 of 18 Old 03-06-2015, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaybee1669 View Post
What about one of those dewalt 90degree drill adapters?

This one isn't dewalt, but you get the picture.


adapter
There isnt enough room for that. Ive basically got just enough room between the firewall and the back of the motor to make a fist out of one of my dick beaters.

Im about to attempt a blind cut with a dremel since I cant see the actual bolt and use a 90* screw driver and hope for the best.

Im almost to the point of putting the good bolt in and JB Weld around the bad bolt to hold that side, but I hate half assing stuff, and Im really not certain that would work.

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post #8 of 18 Old 03-06-2015, 12:56 PM
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I was worried about that when I replaced the EGR on my wife's Jeep. Luckily, everything came apart okay.

I don't think you have a whole lot of options. There's just no room to work. I think you're going to have to pull the head.

I'll second the left hand drill bit idea. Those can be a god-send.

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post #9 of 18 Old 03-06-2015, 01:35 PM
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Pics. I worked on mine before and can't remember how it sits. AND it's too damn cold to go outside. If you have room to center punch and drill about a 1/4 to 3/8 inch deep into the bolt then i would suggest a Rigid bolt extractor. drill the hole, tap the fluted stem into the bolt and then drop a sliding nut over the stem and use the proper size wrench to remove. copius amounts of penetrating fluid needed.

EDIT: oh shit, just read your last post.. (shakes head) I got to agree on pulling the head unles JB Weld can help in some way. Best of luck man.

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post #10 of 18 Old 03-06-2015, 02:46 PM
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re: Broken Bolt , need ideas

could you go to (insert your cheap drugstore or harbor freight -Walmart retail pref here ) & buy some [email protected] mirror that you could temporarily tape or magnet to the firewall , illuminating said witha hanging automotive light source or whatever and have at least enough room to accurately use the small ( break in 1min or less ) Dremel cutoff disks to at least get a slot cut into the sheared off bolt head so you could use some manner of bent flathead screwdriver to back it out ? I have also found Harbor Freight oddities like gooseneck mirrors and magnet mirrors useful for that tight space behind motor and in front of firewall ....sucks man , srry :...I don't think the JBWeld is gonna work ....

edit ( oh-i just realized you don't mean the egr tube that has two bolts facing out towards pssgr wheel but the assembly which is rear facing off the engine (duh) .... well , mirrors /light may still help but unless you can cut a big hole in the firewall and work from inside , these guys are probably right about pulling the head .... I'll shut up now....)


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post #11 of 18 Old 03-06-2015, 03:47 PM
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Can you get a mig in there? Maybe weld a skinny bolt onto the broken one?


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post #12 of 18 Old 03-06-2015, 05:02 PM
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You guys are missing the obvious fix........LS Swap..


or maybe this will fit with some stubby bits and the hex extractors. I don't think there's much chance to find stubby reverse bits.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...GF36DK9XMS994J

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post #13 of 18 Old 03-06-2015, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASSFROW View Post
You guys are missing the obvious fix........LS Swap..


or maybe this will fit with some stubby bits and the hex extractors. I don't think there's much chance to find stubby reverse bits.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...GF36DK9XMS994J

LS Swap has been on the to do list, unfortunately my funds dont match up to my wants. Its all I can do right now not to burn it to the ground

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post #14 of 18 Old 03-06-2015, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiltz View Post
Can you get a mig in there? Maybe weld a skinny bolt onto the broken one?
I have tacked shit in some tight spots even keep a spool of flux core here just for the special times I can not get a tip in somewhere and need to feed out about 6 inches or so of wire to tack something in.

If he is going in semi blind I usually suggest a nut and play a game of operation and build up to the nut. Then get decent penetration at the nut and work it out. Had to do about 6 intake bolts on my dads F250 ( 302 SM block Ford. He has a damn plow on the front of it so it made it that much more fun to get in there and tack nuts in place.
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post #15 of 18 Old 03-06-2015, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D5Fire View Post
LS Swap has been on the to do list, unfortunately my funds dont match up to my wants. Its all I can do right now not to burn it to the ground
This may sound crazy, but I figured I would throw it out there. Do you have access to a two post lift? If so, pulling the body off is not that hard. You have to drain the coolant and disconnect some shit, but then its just body bolts.

You can go to AEV's web site and download the hemi conversion instructions. The first few pages walk you through removing the body. I have done it and it takes about 90 minutes to accomplish. Personally, I would pull the body off before I pulled the head off, but maybe that is just me. I don't like to crack a motor unless I have to or have a reason to.
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post #16 of 18 Old 03-06-2015, 08:18 PM
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JC Whitney.com does have that products also... it's cheap and they deliver it free. I ordered same tools from there last year.

Also, an offciemate told me that when their relatives ordered an engine from autopartswarehouse store.... those tools were given free. not sure though if they still have it as promo nowadays.
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post #17 of 18 Old 03-06-2015, 08:32 PM
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If you go the JB Weld route make sure you use the high heat stuff. The normal stuff will not stand up to the heat in the engine bay at all.
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post #18 of 18 Old 03-07-2015, 09:21 AM
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Weld a nut onto it, then use a pencil torch to heat it up and spray it with some PB blaster. Heat will suck the PB in. Heat it again and turn the nut.
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