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post #1 of 46 Old 03-04-2015, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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Axle Leaking Oil

as luck would have it, yesterday I cut a sidewall on one of my new 37" BFG KM2's. when I was changing my tire I noticed that gear oil was leaking from the axle tube. approximately 2 weeks ago I had my gears swapped from 4.10's to 5.38's. the master install kit did not include axle seals and I didn't think to replace them because they appeared fine at the time. so my question is, what is the chance that this leak is a result of over filling the differential with gear oil vs. a bad seal? I know the differential was over filled because I was standing there when the shop filled it. just not sure if this would cause the leak or if it could only be caused by a worn out seal.

i'd really hate to go back into the differential right after it was already open and done. this type of job looks like a pain in the ass and I am debating just paying someone to do it for me if I have to go back into the differential.

2011 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
- 40" Pro Comp MT2's
- Lot's of extra's

Last edited by CamoCop; 03-04-2015 at 10:23 PM.
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post #2 of 46 Old 03-04-2015, 10:24 PM
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Most likely a bad seal. Overfilling would be more likely to blow out the breather.


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post #3 of 46 Old 03-04-2015, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by SoK66 View Post
Most likely a bad seal. Overfilling would be more likely to blow out the breather.


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^ This


if you did the gears then the seals are a peice of cake. Nice right up on here about using a threaded rod and some washers to seat the seals.

Recently had to do mine after removing shafts for a trail fix... pusched one of the plactic washers on teh axle through the seal tearing it.

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post #4 of 46 Old 03-05-2015, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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I paid a shop to do the gear install and set ups. I didn't have a place or knowledge to do the gear set ups. i really don't have access to a decent place to do that kind of work. everything i do is done in my yard on dirt and grass.

2011 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
- 40" Pro Comp MT2's
- Lot's of extra's
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post #5 of 46 Old 03-05-2015, 02:14 AM Thread Starter
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also which seal or where should i buy? i am seeing them for as little as $5 a piece all the way up to $16 a piece.

2011 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
- 40" Pro Comp MT2's
- Lot's of extra's
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post #6 of 46 Old 03-05-2015, 05:15 AM
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Maybe I missed it, but front or rear?

I assume front from the description, but I hate to assume.

Last edited by BigTB; 03-05-2015 at 05:21 AM.
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post #7 of 46 Old 03-05-2015, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by CamoCop View Post
also which seal or where should i buy? i am seeing them for as little as $5 a piece all the way up to $16 a piece.
I got mine out of convenience and quickness at the local dealership. second time I have ever been there

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post #8 of 46 Old 03-05-2015, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by CamoCop View Post
also which seal or where should i buy? i am seeing them for as little as $5 a piece all the way up to $16 a piece.
I have had to do them twice on my 13. Mopar has redesigned them to a 2 piece seal. hopefully they will hold up better. I think they were around 36 for the pair at the dealer. 5014852AC

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post #9 of 46 Old 03-05-2015, 07:54 AM
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Yea get them from the dealer. I just got some yesterday for when I do my re-gear next month. 20 bucks a piece.
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post #10 of 46 Old 03-05-2015, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jeep-rat View Post
I have had to do them twice on my 13. Mopar has redesigned them to a 2 piece seal. hopefully they will hold up better. I think they were around 36 for the pair at the dealer. 5014852AC
X2 on the new two-piece design you get from the dealer. I am no fan of the dealer but for this part go ahead and get them there. We replaced a set on a buddy's about 6 months ago using the Crown $5 ones...they leaked almost immediately. The new two-piece part from the dealer did the trick.

OP, the install is a little bit of a pain due to all the dis-assembly but it is definitely something you can do. This thread should help with the pressing of the seals.

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28661

If you have a shop do it you'll get sticker shock from the cost...again, due to all the dis-assembly.

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post #11 of 46 Old 03-05-2015, 09:06 AM
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I had both in hand. The 2 piece seals seemed really tight.
I used the Crown seals from Synergy.
No leaks yet !!!

I still have the new seals if somebody wants them.

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post #12 of 46 Old 03-05-2015, 09:08 AM
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OP
There is one thing to check before you get into the inner seals. Check to make sure you breather tube is not clogged. the dif has to vent and if the breather is clogged it could cause the vent to be a seal.

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post #13 of 46 Old 03-05-2015, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TCdawg View Post
OP
There is one thing to check before you get into the inner seals. Check to make sure you breather tube is not clogged. the dif has to vent and if the breather is clogged it could cause the vent to be a seal.
thanks, I will check that. I think it will end up being a seal though. it probably got damaged without knowing while doing the gear install from sliding the axle in and out. I wish I would have known the master kit did not come with new axle seals, I would have bought them and had them replaced at the same time. would it be a good idea to replace the outside tube seals at the same time just for insurance?

2011 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
- 40" Pro Comp MT2's
- Lot's of extra's
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post #14 of 46 Old 03-05-2015, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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i'm going to take everyone's advice and get them from the dealer. thanks for the heads up on the new 2 piece seals.

2011 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
- 40" Pro Comp MT2's
- Lot's of extra's
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post #15 of 46 Old 03-05-2015, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Maybe I missed it, but front or rear?

I assume front from the description, but I hate to assume.
yes it's the front passenger side on a 2011 JKUR.

2011 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
- 40" Pro Comp MT2's
- Lot's of extra's
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post #16 of 46 Old 03-05-2015, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TCdawg View Post
X2 on the new two-piece design you get from the dealer. I am no fan of the dealer but for this part go ahead and get them there. We replaced a set on a buddy's about 6 months ago using the Crown $5 ones...they leaked almost immediately. The new two-piece part from the dealer did the trick.

OP, the install is a little bit of a pain due to all the dis-assembly but it is definitely something you can do. This thread should help with the pressing of the seals.

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28661

If you have a shop do it you'll get sticker shock from the cost...again, due to all the dis-assembly.
i'm contemplating on trying to do this job myself in my front yard next week so I just got around to looking up the thread you mentioned. can the seals be seated while the ring and pinion stay in the differential? I do not want to remove the ring and pinion just to replace 2 seals. can the seals be seated with a "seal driver" while the ring and pinion stays in (meaning will there be enough room to use the seal driver with the gears installed)? I can pick up a "seal driver" for under $40 at Harbor Freight here in town. plus having this tool will come in handy down the road anyway.

2011 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
- 40" Pro Comp MT2's
- Lot's of extra's

Last edited by CamoCop; 03-05-2015 at 11:19 PM.
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post #17 of 46 Old 03-06-2015, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamoCop View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TCdawg View Post
X2 on the new two-piece design you get from the dealer. I am no fan of the dealer but for this part go ahead and get them there. We replaced a set on a buddy's about 6 months ago using the Crown $5 ones...they leaked almost immediately. The new two-piece part from the dealer did the trick.

OP, the install is a little bit of a pain due to all the dis-assembly but it is definitely something you can do. This thread should help with the pressing of the seals.

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28661

If you have a shop do it you'll get sticker shock from the cost...again, due to all the dis-assembly.
i'm contemplating on trying to do this job myself in my front yard next week so I just got around to looking up the thread you mentioned. can the seals be seated while the ring and pinion stay in the differential? I do not want to remove the ring and pinion just to replace 2 seals. can the seals be seated with a "seal driver" while the ring and pinion stays in (meaning will there be enough room to use the seal driver with the gears installed)? I can pick up a "seal driver" for under $40 at Harbor Freight here in town. plus having this tool will come in handy down the road anyway.
Nope it's got to come out. Its only 4 bolts to pull the caps, don't lose the shims and make sure caps go back on exactly how they came off and torque to spec. Not that hard.
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post #18 of 46 Old 03-06-2015, 01:06 AM Thread Starter
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where are the shims located and what do they look like? I have never taken a differential apart before. also does this mean the gears have to be completely set up again? i'm guessing the 4 bolts you are speaking of are the bolts that hold the "straps" like on a U Joint? also do you know what the torque spec's are off hand?

sorry for all the questions, If I do this I just want to be prepared and not screw anything up.

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- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
- 40" Pro Comp MT2's
- Lot's of extra's
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post #19 of 46 Old 03-06-2015, 04:40 AM
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Axle Leaking Oil

I had 1 050 shim in-between the bearing cap and diff on each side.
Grab a couple boxes and a paint pen. Mark up down/left right and separate the parts. As mentioned .. Everything has to go back in the same way it came out. If you have a Ruby locker .. There's a truck to holding the pin open.
Torque depends on 30/44, I believe 40/80 but check on that.
You'll need a good press to seat the seals.
Look into Permatex the right stuff for gasket maker .. Great stuff.

Oh ... Good time to replace the bearings, Ujoints, ball joints, anything needing replaced since everything is out.

Good luck!!

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Last edited by kjeeper10; 03-06-2015 at 04:43 AM.
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post #20 of 46 Old 03-06-2015, 05:01 AM
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If you have a Ruby locker .. There's a truck to holding the pin open.
use a piece of toothpick, trimmed to the length necessary to hold the rubi locker sensor plunger out all the way. Tie a little bit of string on it and drape the string out and up on top of the dif. When you get the carrier back in, pull the string and the toothpick piece will come out and the plunger will slide into place.

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post #21 of 46 Old 03-06-2015, 05:49 AM
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I used a piece of plastic something I had laying around. Except.. I forgot to pull the string through before bolting shit up. I got lucky and still able to get the plastic piece out lol

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #22 of 46 Old 03-06-2015, 06:06 AM
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Are these two-piece backward compatible with the 2011s?


Inquiring minds need to know for future reference.
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post #23 of 46 Old 03-06-2015, 06:07 AM
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Are these two-piece backward compatible with the 2011s?


Inquiring minds need to know for future reference.
I put them on a 2008 and a 2010

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post #24 of 46 Old 03-06-2015, 06:41 AM
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I thought they seemed really tight around the axle shaft (2007)

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post #25 of 46 Old 03-06-2015, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
I thought they seemed really tight around the axle shaft (2007)
I think that was the reason for the new design. The inner piece of the seal stays tight on the axle shaft and the only movement would be between the 2 seal pieces. Makes sense to me, but I could be completely wrong.
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