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post #1 of 26 Old 02-18-2015, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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Question long arm upgrade reccomendations

currently working on putting together a 4.5 inch lift for my jku. cant decide on what long arms to get. teraflex, RK, RE, or evomfg. any help would be great. i am planning on using RE 4.5" coils.
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post #2 of 26 Old 02-18-2015, 06:31 PM
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Go custom, the long arm kits available are really not that impressive.

Some build info here:
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post #3 of 26 Old 02-18-2015, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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dont have the resources to get a custom long arm built and if i did it would cost an arm and a leg.
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post #4 of 26 Old 02-18-2015, 10:39 PM
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Synergy with metal cloak duroflex joints is the way to go, period! 4.5" and these arms is the bomb.

I have teraflex. I don't like the joint inserts. Also it is short arm, which is like a tj long arm lol. I run it fine at 6" lift.

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Last edited by JeepUpKeep37s; 02-18-2015 at 10:41 PM.
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post #5 of 26 Old 02-19-2015, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
Go custom, the long arm kits available are really not that impressive.
Out of curiosity, what don't you like about the long arms kits offered by the high end lift manufacturers? Is it design specific or just what you get for the price?
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post #6 of 26 Old 02-19-2015, 12:36 AM
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If you saw the Dirtmans rig, you'd know. But, Evo double throw down with their rear cantilever suspension is awesome, I think it's by far the best out there. Just take a look at it.
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post #7 of 26 Old 02-19-2015, 02:20 AM
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Synergy, RK 3 link and EVO LA's seem to be most favored. I know not everybody favors Radius arms but I'll throw Clayton in the mix too.

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #8 of 26 Old 02-19-2015, 06:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinlock View Post
Out of curiosity, what don't you like about the long arms kits offered by the high end lift manufacturers? Is it design specific or just what you get for the price?
I feel they don't do enough for geometry or clearance for what you have stop spend and how much work they are. I am not a fan of the designs that hang the lower arm mounts off the bottom of the frame which causes the arms to hang low and drags along the rocks.

I only know of one company that relocates the axle mounts to gain clearance. By raising the axle mount in line with the tubes and the upper mounts tucked inside or out side of the frame you gain the flatter lower arms and more clearance for obstacles.

Three link rear systems flex nice and are basically bind free but use a really tall bridge for the upper that creates up travel clearance issues unless you are going to be running 4"+ of lift.

Some lifts like Teraflex use a rater short upper arms that creates a lot of pinion angle change during extreme articulation.

I don't know what you are looking to do with the jeep or what you expect to get out of the long arm set up but these are some of the things I noticed about the current offerings. The Genright long arm double triangulated suspension is the best one I have seen but is crazy expensive and requires new axles and a fuel cell. Rock Krawler has been hinting at some new more extreme suspension that are being tested but I have not seen any specifics on them.

Good luck with the build.

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post #9 of 26 Old 02-19-2015, 06:59 AM
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My vote goes for Synergy. I think they have the best geometry for their long arm suspension, compared to the other manufacturers. Not as impressed with Teraflex long arm suspension; as stated above, the upper control arms are a lot shorter than the lower control arms.
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post #10 of 26 Old 02-19-2015, 07:18 AM
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Rock Krawler hands down.

Arms are tucked up above the frame rail.
Rear Lower axle mounts get shaved about an inch.
Three link is virtually bindless as mentioned.
Lifetime warranty on hard parts.
Bent lower arms for added clearance.


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post #11 of 26 Old 02-19-2015, 08:11 AM
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TNT Customs hands down. :grin:

Strong, tucked away mounts, no binding, great drivability on and off-road.

They are on a lot of big rigs and have done well.

I love Wheeling, it frees the mind
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post #12 of 26 Old 02-19-2015, 11:54 AM
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Long arm

I have also been researching long arm kits to put on my JKU. I am leaning toward Rock Krawler, but the Clayton Offroad (CT) makes a damn nice set up that several JKO folks directed me to. I was not aware of the EVO kit, I will check it out thanks.
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post #13 of 26 Old 02-22-2015, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinlock View Post
Out of curiosity, what don't you like about the long arms kits offered by the high end lift manufacturers? Is it design specific or just what you get for the price?

has nothing to do with price more on the reason of lots of good reviews.

08 JKUS, Rubi T-Case, EVO MFG 4" PR Coils, Synergy high steer, Synergy tie rod, OR-Fab Bumpers, Bilstien shocks, AEV Saverges, Warn VR10, Trucklite LEDs NLJO FOUNDER
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post #14 of 26 Old 02-22-2015, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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after reading the replies so far im leaning towards the rock krawler due to the brackets being tucked away inside the frame. note that i already have evo mfgs 4" plush ride otw with 3/4 spacers for the front and maybe the rear if need be. roads here are absolutely ridiculous, you can lose a 35 in potholes around the city.

08 JKUS, Rubi T-Case, EVO MFG 4" PR Coils, Synergy high steer, Synergy tie rod, OR-Fab Bumpers, Bilstien shocks, AEV Saverges, Warn VR10, Trucklite LEDs NLJO FOUNDER
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post #15 of 26 Old 02-22-2015, 08:39 PM
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RK is good. That would be my choice if I didn't do TNT!

I love Wheeling, it frees the mind
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post #16 of 26 Old 02-22-2015, 09:36 PM
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I looked at everything before I pulled the trigger. I personally went with the Rock Krawler 3 link. My 2 door always felt like it was bound up. After installing the long arm it rides so much better. My current set up rides like a luxury car. King Coil overs in front (EVO bolt in kit) and 3" Teraflex springs with Radflo shocks in the rear. I will probably change over to RK springs in the rear before eventually rung Coil Overs in the rear.

EVO King Coil overs on front 3.5" Rock Krawler springs Radflo shocks on rear, RK Long Arm, ARB Stubby front, DNA rear winch bumper, 37" Super Swamper M16 on Raceline Monster Beadlocks, Rockhard 4X4 cage......
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post #17 of 26 Old 02-23-2015, 02:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Synergy, RK 3 link and EVO LA's seem to be most favored. I know not everybody favors Radius arms but I'll throw Clayton in the mix too.
Clayton's kit is a sold setup. Not sure why everyone hates on the radius arms. If setup properly they work very well. TNT uses a similar y-link configuration. My only complaint about the Clayton kit is the rear control arm brackets at the frame side hang down a little more than id like and i get hung up on them every so often. The front is ultra tucked up and their skid system provides one hell of a smooth belly. They are also coming out with a pro-series front 3 link setup soon, which I have high hopes for.

Good friend of mine runs the evo longarm, works very well but his rear control arm brackets at the frame hang down even more than mine do. But we both go places without any real issues.

Synergy was my first choice to be honest, as others stated their geometry is pretty damn spot on and their stuff is top notch. Was running synergy everything when I was shortarm never had a single problem. The only reason i didn't go with them was a timing issue (jeep got wrecked by a dumbass driver and was going thru insurance) and as Clayton is local to me they won that battle.

2008 X 2-door, 35" Duratacs, Clayton Long-arm, geared and locked

2012 Rubi 2-door, 37" Nittos, Method Beadlocks, JKS Suspension, JCR everything
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post #18 of 26 Old 02-23-2015, 03:00 AM
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long arm upgrade reccomendations

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlvrJK View Post
Clayton's kit is a sold setup. Not sure why everyone hates on the radius arms. If setup properly they work very well. TNT uses a similar y-link configuration. My only complaint about the Clayton kit is the rear control arm brackets at the frame side hang down a little more than id like and i get hung up on them every so often. The front is ultra tucked up and their skid system provides one hell of a smooth belly. They are also coming out with a pro-series front 3 link setup soon, which I have high hopes for.



Good friend of mine runs the evo longarm, works very well but his rear control arm brackets at the frame hang down even more than mine do. But we both go places without any real issues.



Synergy was my first choice to be honest, as others stated their geometry is pretty damn spot on and their stuff is top notch. Was running synergy everything when I was shortarm never had a single problem. The only reason i didn't go with them was a timing issue (jeep got wrecked by a dumbass driver and was going thru insurance) and as Clayton is local to me they won that battle.

Mike has talked about your jeep w/ the clayton LA ?

What is the pro series ?

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #19 of 26 Old 02-23-2015, 04:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by symmzyJKU View Post
after reading the replies so far im leaning towards the rock krawler due to the brackets being tucked away inside the frame. note that i already have evo mfgs 4" plush ride otw with 3/4 spacers for the front and maybe the rear if need be. roads here are absolutely ridiculous, you can lose a 35 in potholes around the city.
If you go with the RK long arm kit. Keep an eye on the upper frame side flex joints of your front LCA's. The new crossmember puts the exhaust and control arm mount in close proximity and can cause issues with the rubber joint and heat from the exhaust pipe.

In our case, the heat completely destroyed the rubber on the driver side joint. After replacing the the rubber sleeves. I wrapped the exhaust pipe, in that area, with header wrap and havent had a problem since.

With that being said. I am switching out all the LCA's and flex joints with custom aluminum links and rod ends this week.

Just to be safe
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post #20 of 26 Old 02-23-2015, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Descent View Post
If you go with the RK long arm kit. Keep an eye on the upper frame side flex joints of your front LCA's. The new crossmember puts the exhaust and control arm mount in close proximity and can cause issues with the rubber joint and heat from the exhaust pipe.

In our case, the heat completely destroyed the rubber on the driver side joint. After replacing the the rubber sleeves. I wrapped the exhaust pipe, in that area, with header wrap and havent had a problem since.

With that being said. I am switching out all the LCA's and flex joints with custom aluminum links and rod ends this week.

Just to be safe
Do you have our Pro Series Krawler Joints? If not, give us a shout. Yes, the races are susceptible to heat, but with proper exhaust routing and shielding they should hold up great for everyone. We and several others race on them on U4 rigs and they take abuse. All bushings will be susceptible to the heat issue as well as the teflon fabric adhesive in quality heims. If you get the heims with the plastic fiber races, then of course they will be susceptible as well. Even the factory is not shielding from exhaust heat on their upper arms. Cats get really hot, especially when under heavy loads and going slow!

RK
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post #21 of 26 Old 02-23-2015, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALASHA View Post
Rock Krawler hands down.

Arms are tucked up above the frame rail.
Rear Lower axle mounts get shaved about an inch.
Three link is virtually bindless as mentioned.
Lifetime warranty on hard parts.
Bent lower arms for added clearance.
Thanks Alasha...

RK
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post #22 of 26 Old 02-23-2015, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
I feel they don't do enough for geometry or clearance for what you have stop spend and how much work they are. I am not a fan of the designs that hang the lower arm mounts off the bottom of the frame which causes the arms to hang low and drags along the rocks.

I only know of one company that relocates the axle mounts to gain clearance. By raising the axle mount in line with the tubes and the upper mounts tucked inside or out side of the frame you gain the flatter lower arms and more clearance for obstacles.

Three link rear systems flex nice and are basically bind free but use a really tall bridge for the upper that creates up travel clearance issues unless you are going to be running 4"+ of lift.

Some lifts like Teraflex use a rater short upper arms that creates a lot of pinion angle change during extreme articulation.

I don't know what you are looking to do with the jeep or what you expect to get out of the long arm set up but these are some of the things I noticed about the current offerings. The Genright long arm double triangulated suspension is the best one I have seen but is crazy expensive and requires new axles and a fuel cell. Rock Krawler has been hinting at some new more extreme suspension that are being tested but I have not seen any specifics on them.

Good luck with the build.
We understand Dirtman's POV for sure! On our custom builds, a lot of times we move everything and start with bare axles. Unfortunately that is just not for everyone. With our standard long arm systems, we tried to maximize ground clearance with 100% bind free suspension geometry to provide the customer with what we felt was the best option for him or her using the rest of the factory locations to make the conversion as smooth as possible.

RK
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post #23 of 26 Old 02-23-2015, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Mike has talked about your jeep w/ the clayton LA ?

What is the pro series ?
Yes mine is the jeep he's talked about, rig works pretty well.

It's a new setup they are in the middle of testing. Utilizes a true 3 link design with a full axle truss to help distribute the load. I'm waiting impatiently for it to be released before I make my decision to keep what I have or give it a try.

2008 X 2-door, 35" Duratacs, Clayton Long-arm, geared and locked

2012 Rubi 2-door, 37" Nittos, Method Beadlocks, JKS Suspension, JCR everything
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post #24 of 26 Old 02-23-2015, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlvrJK View Post
Yes mine is the jeep he's talked about, rig works pretty well.



It's a new setup they are in the middle of testing. Utilizes a true 3 link design with a full axle truss to help distribute the load. I'm waiting impatiently for it to be released before I make my decision to keep what I have or give it a try.

Nice !!! Thanks for the info.

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #25 of 26 Old 02-26-2015, 06:53 AM Thread Starter
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update: getting evo mfg 4" plush ride coils instead and with a 1" front coil spacers to compensate for the weight of a winch and cable.

08 JKUS, Rubi T-Case, EVO MFG 4" PR Coils, Synergy high steer, Synergy tie rod, OR-Fab Bumpers, Bilstien shocks, AEV Saverges, Warn VR10, Trucklite LEDs NLJO FOUNDER
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