How Many Is Too Many? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 02-15-2015, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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How Many Is Too Many?

Hello to all the pro jeepers!

I am currently in the market to buy a JKU (preferably with a hardtop) and my budget is looking like anything that I can afford is in the 07'-08' range.

My question is how many miles is too many miles for a jeep of those years? I realize anything over 100k is bad but find one with less that 70k is pretty difficult.

I guess the real question is, if I buy a JK with that many miles how well should I expect it to hold up?

Thanks for any advice!
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post #2 of 14 Old 02-15-2015, 09:16 PM
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150,000 on my JKU and still going strong other then a couple of electrical gremlins in the power windows and rear washer pump.
Expect things like worn bushings, leaking seal, and normal wear items like brakes and clutch if manual.

Some build info here:
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post #3 of 14 Old 02-15-2015, 10:04 PM
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re:How Many Is Too Many?

like Dirtman said, finding + performing normal maintenance routines and part replacement for the "milestones" listed in the manual/FSM ( plug replacement at this mileage, new blah blah at this mileage, etc ) would be normal things to ask for of previous owners...they should have kept some manner of record of oil changes and parts replacements.....you'll look at fixing leaks here and there but I have approaching 75k on my 3.8 2011 [ yeah, is a bit of miles for one that age] & to be honest it is running as strong or stronger than the day I bought it new. It's about how the engine is taken care of and maintained. Verify the oil was changed at appropriate intervals and you should be OK with common sense shopping. If you don't know much about this sort of thing, don't hesitate getting a trusted mechanical friend or source to eval what you're ;looking at buying first.

the main seal, rod bearings , head gasket and exhaust manifold and electrical gremlins are known weak spots on 3.8 liters to check.


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Last edited by j3ff3ry_j33p; 02-15-2015 at 10:07 PM.
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post #4 of 14 Old 02-16-2015, 12:14 AM
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It really depends on where and how it's been driven and maintained. The undercarriage usually has a good story to tell. If the owner didn't maintain the suspension chances are he did the same for the driveline.
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post #5 of 14 Old 02-16-2015, 12:13 PM
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137,000 on my '08. I'd drive her to FL today. Actually wish I could it's cold up here. LOL
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post #6 of 14 Old 02-16-2015, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info guys!

I actually found a used 2010 thats already got some of the necessities of a Jeep haha. Its only got 23,600 miles on it for just over 21K!

I defiantly have my eye on it and I'm hoping to trade my Charger in and bring her home!



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post #7 of 14 Old 02-16-2015, 12:33 PM
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rubicon or no?

if thats not a rubicon and your running bigger tires then be prepared to spend some money
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post #8 of 14 Old 02-16-2015, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rj'sjeep View Post
if thats not a rubicon and your running bigger tires then be prepared to spend some money
What kind of work would need to be done on a non rubicon? I am a pretty big car guy, but new to the offroad/lifted world.
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post #9 of 14 Old 02-16-2015, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tofergstaff View Post
What kind of work would need to be done on a non rubicon? I am a pretty big car guy, but new to the offroad/lifted world.
Don't listen to him the only thing that would make a Rubicon stronger is the front D44 and then it's only the ring and pinion, housing and the ujoints I believe. The tubes, knuckles, c's, etc are the same. The Rubicon comes from the factory with lockers, front D44 and electronic sway bar disconnect. Other than that it's cosmetic.

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post #10 of 14 Old 02-16-2015, 07:39 PM
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Don't listen to him, it's the 4 to 1 transfer case that really makes a difference, a huge difference. So, the rubi. all together has a d44 instead of a d30 front axle and a lot of people have had problems with the d30 when running bigger tires. Some have had the same problems with the d44. I think it all has to do with the way you wheel, if your not a friggin maniac, you should be fine. I, on the other hand, am a maniac, and have bent my front d44. LOL I'd still rather start off with a 44. They also have an Electronic sway bar disconnect that allows you more articulation. You can achieve the same results manually from a non E. sway bar disc., it's just a pain in the ass. Also they have locking diffs., front and back. So, you can see there are big differences.

Last edited by dahreno; 02-16-2015 at 07:45 PM.
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post #11 of 14 Old 02-16-2015, 08:14 PM
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That is a cheap price for a 2010 with those low miles....if the undercarriage is clean and it runs/handles wells at highway speeds, that's a deal....I would recommend a rubi t-case - I believe there are a number of pull-offs running around at motech and other places, just look around, slap one in an have fun....

2015 2dr Rubi, manual shift, windows, and door locks, love this thing
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post #12 of 14 Old 02-16-2015, 09:11 PM
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It you look in the first picture you can see what looks like the "sport" logo on the fender. Regardless, I can't imagine someone with a Rubicon putting Barbie's special star rims on it but then again maybe it's an East Coast thing?

You don't need to do anything to it to go off-road. It's a Jeep Wrangler, it's ready to go. I would suggest you go with somebody who knows what they are doing or find a class (maybe offered by a local 4x4 club) and learn how to really enjoy off-roading. Also, learn what works for the type of wheelin' you want to do.

Having said that, and taking into account the fact that I fully embrace Just Empty Every Pocket, there are things I would do to that Jeep. This is my opinion only but you sorta asked:
1. Ditch those rims, you might get some money for them. Take them off-road a few times and you won't. The tires are good.
2. Reinforce that front axle even if it is a D44. Sleeves or Truss. Gusset the inner C's.
3. Get a flexy lift. (I'm willing to bet that whatever lift is on that is a budget lift given the rims).
4. Change out the gears to match or exceed the tire size.
4a. Get a tuner to recalibrate the speedo as well (and if a 12+ auto then definitely get a tuner or enjoy limp mode).
5. Get some lockers and ditch those boat anchors.
6. Get some good fenders/trim those stock dumbo ears down.
7. Get some real rock sliders.
8. Trim that front bumper or replace it with one that matches the rear bumper.
9. Get on board air.
10. Get recovery gear, a least a jack that can allow you to change your tire safely on the trail and a tow-strap. Would suggest going further and get jumper cables, first aid kit, 2-days water+rations (MREs work great), and sun-screen (I'm bald, always keep this in the Jeep!)
11. CB Radio and FRS hand-held.
12. Skid-plate that protects the oil pan/tranny.
13. Get some trail-doors so you can see what you are doing. Ditch the mall crawler window tint, why make it harder to see what you are doing?
14. Get a haircut.

I'm sure there's more to add. Other's can chime in, I'm tired.
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post #13 of 14 Old 02-17-2015, 01:54 PM
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of course he may not be rock climbing and banging the shit out of his rims. he may like the look of the tint. may never do anything more hard core than a fire road so won't break any axles................


it's a nice looking ride. not all Jeeps spend 90% of their time clinging to the side of a cliff.

mine has been completely covered in mud, nearly swamped in a lake, close to rolling over a few times. it has D30 front and alum wheels. no big deal. if I do bend 'em up then I'll swap them out.
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post #14 of 14 Old 02-17-2015, 07:42 PM
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