Lifted Sahara or stock rubi - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 42 Old 02-07-2015, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Age: 38
Posts: 10
Feedback: 0 reviews
Lifted Sahara or stock rubi

I am in the market for a JKU. I am looking at a moderately lifted Sahara on 35's or a stock rubicon. Mostly this jeep will be my DD. I have also noticed that a lot of rubicons are automatic. How does that transmission hold up?

Any other thoughts or advice would be great. Plan on buying as soon as someone takes my LJ off my hands
Pshaun is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 42 Old 02-07-2015, 02:44 PM
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 163
Feedback: 0 reviews

Assuming both JK's are in good shape and both have a 3.6 engine, it depends on where and how you are going to drive it. If the lift and tires are mostly for looks and moderate off roading then the Sahara is fine. It can be tempting to buy a JK that is already lifted with wheels but there are a lot options and not all of them are good. For instance, the tires may not be the best for a DD. If you want crawl rocks, really technical trails and push the JK, then the D44 on the front of the Rubi and the lower crawl ratio are a good thing to have.

The auto on the JK works fine but one of the them has a manual and you prefer a manual then go with it. Most Rubis are autos because dealers like to sell them loaded them with options.
spinlock is offline  
post #3 of 42 Old 02-07-2015, 04:08 PM
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Age: 64
Posts: 241
Feedback: 0 reviews

The early JK's auto trans sucks , I own one ! I'ts the Joe Biden of transmissions . It is never in the right gear for the conditions at hand . When it downshifts after pressure it screams the engine on even the slightest rise in grade . I'm getting rid of it with a LS swap+6l80e . The motor would be OK , with a trans. that worked , maybe a bit under powered , but still Chrysler still Fu-ed the JK with this combination . Every one I get into a conversation , about this , that has this 3.8 and 4sp auto says that it leaves alot to be desired .
slick pickel is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 42 Old 02-07-2015, 04:16 PM
CalmerThanYouAre
 
sin52's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: On Some List
Age: 49
Posts: 9,384
Feedback: 0 reviews

I have a 2007 jku rubi auto on 35s with no complaints for what it's worth.

I support the military, fiscal responsibility, Hemp, legalization of Marijuana over 21, smaller government and the Bill of Rights.

NSA: The only part of the government that actually listens.
sin52 is offline  
post #5 of 42 Old 02-07-2015, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Age: 38
Posts: 10
Feedback: 0 reviews
2012 or newer

Both are 2012 or newer FYI.
Pshaun is offline  
post #6 of 42 Old 02-07-2015, 04:24 PM
CalmerThanYouAre
 
sin52's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: On Some List
Age: 49
Posts: 9,384
Feedback: 0 reviews

The Sahara would save you some bucks fwiw but I'd get the Rubi.

I support the military, fiscal responsibility, Hemp, legalization of Marijuana over 21, smaller government and the Bill of Rights.

NSA: The only part of the government that actually listens.
sin52 is offline  
post #7 of 42 Old 02-07-2015, 04:39 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mountlake Terrace, WA
Age: 43
Posts: 3
Feedback: 0 reviews

I had to make this exact decision two weeks ago.

A really Nice Looking 2012 Sahara with Lift, tires and rims or a 2012 Stock Rubicon.

Cost was about the same. The Sahara would need Lockers and the Rubicon would need lift tires and Rims.

I spent a lot of reading on this and basically its believed to go for the less expensive option and build up your own (aftermarket parts) as you'll get more bang for the buck. I had to put time and money into both in either case to get it where I wanted.

Since mine were both within a few hundred dollars... I imagined the one I would smile the most driving home or be excited about seeing in my driveway the next day.

I went for the Sahara.
SEAJ is offline  
post #8 of 42 Old 02-07-2015, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Age: 38
Posts: 10
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by SEAJ View Post
I had to make this exact decision two weeks ago.

A really Nice Looking 2012 Sahara with Lift, tires and rims or a 2012 Stock Rubicon.

Cost was about the same. The Sahara would need Lockers and the Rubicon would need lift tires and Rims.

I spent a lot of reading on this and basically its believed to go for the less expensive option and build up your own (aftermarket parts) as you'll get more bang for the buck. I had to put time and money into both in either case to get it where I wanted.

Since mine were both within a few hundred dollars... I imagined the one I would smile the most driving home or be excited about seeing in my driveway the next day.

I went for the Sahara.

Good thoughts.... I really appreciate it. The Sahara is also 5 miles from my house the rubi 500 miles 😳
Pshaun is offline  
post #9 of 42 Old 02-07-2015, 11:27 PM
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 163
Feedback: 0 reviews

If it's a '12 then I suggest you read up the issue with the heads on Pentastar engine on the early '12 Wranglers. A certain series of heads is known to have problems. Those that have the problem are serviced by Jeep and I believe Chrysler provides a 10 year warranty on the engine. Either way it's better to know up front what you're buying.
spinlock is offline  
post #10 of 42 Old 02-08-2015, 04:26 AM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Age: 38
Posts: 10
Feedback: 0 reviews

thanks for the heads up.... I'll check into that
Pshaun is offline  
post #11 of 42 Old 02-08-2015, 05:35 AM
DaK
Rock God
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 540
Feedback: 0 reviews

Have an auto, 2009, no issues. Depends on your gearing and your environment I guess.

As for which model, what is your long range plans???

Lift
Axles
Tires
Lockers

and so on. If you are planning to throw some D60's under it then go for the Sahara. If you want the most capable stock jeep, the Rubicon.

Were discussing this the other day, if we had it to do over again we would just buy a JKU X/sport since there is just about NOTHING stock left under the jeep. Suspension wise, the rear axle housing is the only thing stock under our jeep right now. Subject to change at a moments notice.
DaK is offline  
post #12 of 42 Old 02-08-2015, 07:13 AM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Age: 38
Posts: 10
Feedback: 0 reviews

my long term plans would be pretty basic, moderate lift, larger tires (35's or maybe 37's). I don't have the cash for lockers and replacement axels. I only wheel a couple/few times a year.
Pshaun is offline  
post #13 of 42 Old 02-08-2015, 07:26 AM
Granite Guru
 
RedundanT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 180
Feedback: 0 reviews

Consider this, I traded a lifted manual trans '13 Sahara for a stock/new auto '14 Rubicon. I miss the manual trans I had on the Sahara, but after the Flashpaq tune the '14 does shift much better.
RedundanT is offline  
post #14 of 42 Old 02-08-2015, 07:45 AM
R.I.P. Mr. Nibbles!
 
JKCTAZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: AZ
Age: 44
Posts: 8,957
Feedback: 2 reviews

I'll add a different spin on this. Buying the sport/Sahara platform will do two things for you.

A.) Get you to negotiate obstacles with more thought and help you gain skill.
B.) Save you money in the long run.

Wheeling with open axles and crappy low ratio aids in developing skill on the trails. If you can conquer difficult obstacles in that manner, then you will walk all over them when you upgrade.

That leads me into the second reason, if you own your Jeep long enough and especially if you pay it off and keep it, you will probably gut most of the stock items in the suspension and drivetrain over time, either through failure or realizing those skills you developed eclipsed your equipment and you want more challenging terrain.

I'd be concerned about the lift, but wheels and tires are not a cheap upgrade. Neither are gears, lockers, axles, and transfer case, but, if you don't think you'll be upgrading those things over time the choice seems pretty clear.

I have a sport and it has been fun watching it transform over the past few years. I enjoy building vehicles up though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by braindead0 View Post
Some folks are fine with being screwed over, perhaps finding confrontation to be more stressful than just living with whatever the problem is. These are excellent consumers, manufactured to the finest specifications.
Reformed Jeep addict... Jeepless for now.
JKCTAZ is offline  
post #15 of 42 Old 02-08-2015, 05:54 PM
Rock God
 
Jeep Momma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,341
Garage
Feedback: 1 reviews

I traded my stock (not lifted) 13 Sahara for a stock (not lifted) JKU Rubicon for the transfer case, dana 44's etc... I didn't have the time nor patience nor the know how to build my own. Not sure what kind of wheelin' you do but OMG! I love the Rubicon it's amazing how awesome it feels off roading. My Rubicon is also my DD. Eventually I will lift it and add tires. Just my 2 cents.

Tammy
Jeep Momma is offline  
post #16 of 42 Old 02-09-2015, 11:21 AM
Rock God
 
UnlimiDozer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Tulare, CA
Posts: 1,494
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

Even though I agree with his logic, I'm going to suggest a little different approach than JKCTAZ. When I saw your thread title, I thought, "Where are you going to drive it, the mall or the Rubicon?" Smartalek, I know. Sorry. But here's where I depart from JKCTAZ: how long do you want to wait?

It is true, that it will be cheaper in the long run to buy the Sahara and build from there IF you also want all the "Sahara stuff" (leather seats, nav, etc.). But as was said, if you want to start cheap and build up, then a Sport is a better way to go.

If you want the most inherently capable rig of the two, and you want to use it now, then go for the Rubicon. It will surprise you what it can do in stock form. And while I have not done this personally, it's my understanding that you can upgrade to 35s if you choose to, with little to no lift.

To me, there are really 3 things that make the Rubicon a no-brainer (I recognize that your -- or others' -- priorities and values may be different): 4.0:1 low range; front Dana 44; selectable lockers. To add those capabilities to your (potentially) Sahara will cost you a chunk o' change -- MUCH more than a set of 35s and a mild lift. The Rubicon will probably already have 4.10:1 diff gears, which should be adequate for 35s, eliminating the need (and cost) of a gear swap for 35s. (I ran 37s for a while with the stock 4.10s, and so have many others.) And if you go for the Rubicon, you don't have to wait for those capabilities until you can afford them; you can finance them right into the cost of the vehicle, and more importantly, use them straight off the lot.

Also, if you do ever decide to sell it, the Rubicon should hold its resale value better than the Sahara, all else being equal. There's certainly more to discuss here, but just thought I'd throw these out for your consideration.

Edit: Oh, the 5sp auto behind the 3.6 has been a good trans for me. I would agree with the recommendation to research the date of manufacture on either of the two rigs you're looking at, but ultimately, a 10/100k warranty covers any issue you'll have with that head anyway. That kind of makes it a moot point.

My Build Thread:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


I'm the NRA
JOIN HERE:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by UnlimiDozer; 02-09-2015 at 11:29 AM.
UnlimiDozer is offline  
post #17 of 42 Old 02-09-2015, 06:04 PM
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Atlanta, GA
Age: 48
Posts: 18
Feedback: 0 reviews

I'm going to go out on a limb here, as a relatively new Jeeper, but I think a Rubicon on stock wheels no lift will:

1 - Be more capable than the Sahara on 35's for MOST trail situations. Lockers are a really really big deal.

2 - The stock Rubi will probably be a better drive than a lifted Sahara on 35's as a DD.

I'd go Rubi, but YMMV

2015 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
Kenwood - Focal - JL...The rest is STOCK
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by Cjsparky; 02-09-2015 at 06:08 PM.
Cjsparky is offline  
post #18 of 42 Old 02-09-2015, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Age: 38
Posts: 10
Feedback: 0 reviews

Man... Great info guys. I'll just be happy when I get my JKU. Leaning toward the rubi for now...
Pshaun is offline  
post #19 of 42 Old 02-09-2015, 11:34 PM
Granite Guru
 
CamoCop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Lake County, Florida
Age: 41
Posts: 326
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

if it were me and both Jeeps were the same year and same condition, I would go with the Rubicon all day long.

Rubicon's have too many advantages (stronger axle, lockers, 4:1 transfer case, factory sway bar disconnect, etc.) and lifts are not that expensive. for those that only moderately wheel, there is no reason to buy expensive long arm kits when a basic suspension lift kit can be had for well under $1k. as far as tires and wheels go, you can find them used and in very good condition for a fraction of their new cost.

2011 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
- 40" Pro Comp MT2's
- Lot's of extra's
CamoCop is offline  
post #20 of 42 Old 02-09-2015, 11:55 PM
R.I.P. Mr. Nibbles!
 
JKCTAZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: AZ
Age: 44
Posts: 8,957
Feedback: 2 reviews

I want to point out something a lot of folks miss in this equation, that I also overlooked myself. The 4:1 is great on the rocks, no doubt. But! The 2.72 is a better transfer case for general wheeling like dirt, mud, and sand. The 4:1 will dig your ass in on the hurry if you get even a little froggy with the skinny pedal. The 1:1 won't help either. So, what kind of terrain will you be conquering is a fairly important consideration.

Quote:
Originally Posted by braindead0 View Post
Some folks are fine with being screwed over, perhaps finding confrontation to be more stressful than just living with whatever the problem is. These are excellent consumers, manufactured to the finest specifications.
Reformed Jeep addict... Jeepless for now.
JKCTAZ is offline  
post #21 of 42 Old 02-10-2015, 12:16 AM
Granite Guru
 
CamoCop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Lake County, Florida
Age: 41
Posts: 326
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

i'll have to disagree with you on that thought process. I live in Florida and we don't have rocks here. what we do have is an abundance of sugar sand and gumbo mud. I have had no issues with my Rubicon when using 4lo in these situations. actually I usually don't even use 4wd until i'm just about stuck in 2wd. in fact I am currently lowering my stock 4.10 gears to 5.38's. after this get's done I probably won't ever use 4lo again because my 4hi with that low of differential gears will suffice.

2011 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
- 3.5" Rubicon Express lift /w 1.25" BL
- 5.38 Yukon gears
- 40" Pro Comp MT2's
- Lot's of extra's
CamoCop is offline  
post #22 of 42 Old 02-10-2015, 04:45 AM
CalmerThanYouAre
 
sin52's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: On Some List
Age: 49
Posts: 9,384
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pshaun View Post
Man... Great info guys. I'll just be happy when I get my JKU. Leaning toward the rubi for now...
It you don't plan on swapping axles and such and just want to throw on 35's and a small lift to wheel now and again the Rubicon comes with more factory offroad prowess.
On the cheap I went with a 2.5" budget boost and put some 35's on my factory rubi rims with some spidertrax spacers. I also did the locker mod to engage the factory lockers in 4hi. That's all the upgrades I planned on doing and it's worked since 08 or so for what it's worth. I'll wheel a couple times a year on moderate trails in Uwharrie National Forest in NC.
I hope that helps somehow.

I support the military, fiscal responsibility, Hemp, legalization of Marijuana over 21, smaller government and the Bill of Rights.

NSA: The only part of the government that actually listens.
sin52 is offline  
post #23 of 42 Old 02-10-2015, 04:51 AM
JKO Addict!
 
BigMike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: GA
Age: 56
Posts: 3,341
Garage
Feedback: 1 reviews

What lift is on the Sahara. Unless it is a premium lift like Rock Krawler, Metal Cloak, or Synergy, forget the Sahara. Even if it does have one, forget the Sahara.

You want to look at the core of the Jeep. Do you want a better transfer case, axles, lockers, and gear ratio .... or .... a Jeep that comes with a lift and tires. Don't forget about resale value which the Rubicon will win every time. Basically if the Sahara is the same price as the Rubicon, that means you're paying for a Sahara plus the cost of the wheels/tires/lift.

Go for the hardware, not the pretty looks. You can always upgrade wheels/tires/lift but you better be prepared to spend some serious money to upgrade the to get the stock hardware of a Rubicon.


SAHARA (below)


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
, Granite,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
, ProComp 7069 17x9, Cooper STT Pro 37's, Warn M8000, ACE ProSeries Bumpers, RROR Skids, Poly Tie Rod and Drag Link, Ten Factory Chromoly Rear Axles
BigMike is offline  
post #24 of 42 Old 02-10-2015, 08:03 AM
Rock God
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Peachland, Okanagan valley, BC
Posts: 1,060
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by sin52 View Post
The Sahara would save you some bucks fwiw but I'd get the Rubi.
Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pshaun View Post
my long term plans would be pretty basic, moderate lift, larger tires (35's or maybe 37's). I don't have the cash for lockers and replacement axels. I only wheel a couple/few times a year.
37's is a big deal for suspension, ram steering so you don't have a sector shaft problem in the future, 4"lift minimum and then a need for steering correction as well as trackbar relocation, driveshafts as well. 3" lift makes the venture much cheaper and keep shocks at 10" travel.

With any lift check swaybar links lengths to ensure they are long enough for any lift. I found mine short and it caused problems flipping and the damaging links.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JKCTAZ View Post
I'll add a different spin on this. Buying the sport/Sahara platform will do two things for you.

A.) Get you to negotiate obstacles with more thought and help you gain skill.
B.) Save you money in the long run.

Wheeling with open axles and crappy low ratio aids in developing skill on the trails. If you can conquer difficult obstacles in that manner, then you will walk all over them when you upgrade.

That leads me into the second reason, if you own your Jeep long enough and especially if you pay it off and keep it, you will probably gut most of the stock items in the suspension and drivetrain over time, either through failure or realizing those skills you developed eclipsed your equipment and you want more challenging terrain.

I'd be concerned about the lift, but wheels and tires are not a cheap upgrade. Neither are gears, lockers, axles, and transfer case, but, if you don't think you'll be upgrading those things over time the choice seems pretty clear.

I have a sport and it has been fun watching it transform over the past few years. I enjoy building vehicles up though.
I don't like waiting for someone all the time. Using a jeep with lockers takes skill when it's tough to get through the trail even with lockers. It makes it impossible for those without lockers. It's like wheeling with a FJ that has no articulation up front due to IFS and no swaybar disconnect. Bottom line your limited.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep Momma View Post
I traded my stock (not lifted) 13 Sahara for a stock (not lifted) JKU Rubicon for the transfer case, dana 44's etc... I didn't have the time nor patience nor the know how to build my own. Not sure what kind of wheelin' you do but OMG! I love the Rubicon it's amazing how awesome it feels off roading. My Rubicon is also my DD. Eventually I will lift it and add tires. Just my 2 cents.
Good deal yeah it makes a difference. 4:1 is really helpful climbing in the mountains. It really is dependent upon your area, terrain (mud needs more wheel spin so a 4:1 May not be ideal). When your crawling at 9200ft for example you will find being down on power due to elevation. 4:1 is again welcomed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pshaun View Post
Man... Great info guys. I'll just be happy when I get my JKU. Leaning toward the rubi for now...
Unless you see a need for d60's like putting on 40"s then rubicon is an ok build platform.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMike View Post
What lift is on the Sahara. Unless it is a premium lift like Rock Krawler, Metal Cloak, or Synergy, forget the Sahara. Even if it does have one, forget the Sahara.

You want to look at the core of the Jeep. Do you want a better transfer case, axles, lockers, and gear ratio .... or .... a Jeep that comes with a lift and tires. Don't forget about resale value which the Rubicon will win every time. Basically if the Sahara is the same price as the Rubicon, that means you're paying for a Sahara plus the cost of the wheels/tires/lift.

Go for the hardware, not the pretty looks. You can always upgrade wheels/tires/lift but you better be prepared to spend some serious money to upgrade the to get the stock hardware of a Rubicon.


SAHARA (below)
This. Lift makes a big difference. Synergy long arm and metal cloak joints would be a great combo. I am running teraflex. I am not brand biased. Some of the mods I have are custom cause after market didn't address the 6" lift height very well at the time. Suspension is still evolving on my jeep.

JKUR auto | 5:38 | tires 36"x17 wheels 9"x4.5"bs | TF 6"| ASFIR bumpers, skids | SuperWinch EPi9.5 | RCV shafts | SC traildash | Xenon fenders | OBA York

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
JeepUpKeep37s is offline  
post #25 of 42 Old 02-10-2015, 08:43 AM
Granite Guru
 
Hartj17's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Dripping Springs, Texas
Age: 44
Posts: 400
Feedback: 0 reviews

as a newbie I went throught the same progressions. I have decided to wait on a lift until I get better at wheeling. I went out this weekend to Hidden Falls and got to wheel, nothing to hard but I was thrilled with the way the Rubi handled the trails. Honestly, the sway bar disco and the lockers are huge. The Rubi in front of us wasn't locked in and had some problems, the same location we had decided to lock in and... BOOM right up the rocks we went without a problem.

Again, as I said previously, I've decided to wait on the lift to get more comfortable. The wife... she wants it lifted pronto. Lifts will depend on what you want to do with the jeep. If this is your DD then buy the Rubi and save some money. Get a lift down the road when time and money permits. In the mean time learn what you can and cannot do on the trails when you have time also. Driving a stock Rubi impressed the hell out of me. It reassured me this weekend that I did make the right choice for a few reason....

1. It's my DD
2. I'm not planning on beating it to death, but still want great capibilites offroad
3. When I do go with a lift, I'm not going bigger than 3.5inch with 35's and I'm not wheeling every weekend.
3. I do not plan on switching out axles, transfer cases, or the majority of my suspension.

food for thought from a guy with a stock Rubi wanting to upgrade down the road.

Good luck!!
Hartj17 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome