long arm vs. short arm lift question - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 30 Old 02-04-2015, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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long arm vs. short arm lift question

Can someone explain the differences between the two besides the price. I am wanting to run 35's on 2015 jku. Not really after the budget boost.
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post #2 of 30 Old 02-04-2015, 08:21 AM
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Long story short(pun intended) - long arms = smoother ride on road but sacrifice a little ground clearance off-road... Articulate smoother than short arms though.
Short arms = better ground clearance off-road but don't ride as sooth on-road...

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post #3 of 30 Old 02-04-2015, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowjunkie View Post
Can someone explain the differences between the two besides the price. I am wanting to run 35's on 2015 jku. Not really after the budget boost.
A long arm suspension system will require you to remove all of the factory suspension brackets at the frame and weld new ones on. Any short arm system will be bolt in and will use existing mounting points on the frame for your control arms.

A long arm suspension system will change the overall geometry of your suspension and allow for more articulation and in some cases wheel travel.

You DO NOT need a long arm to run 35s. I would actually recommend against it. Buy a short arm kit and enjoy it. It will take you 99% of the places that you'll want to go in that brand new Jeep.

Marcus


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post #4 of 30 Old 02-04-2015, 08:24 AM
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Only other advice is to buy off of this guy! ^

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post #5 of 30 Old 02-04-2015, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiverCityOffroad View Post
A long arm suspension system will require you to remove all of the factory suspension brackets at the frame and weld new ones on. Any short arm system will be bolt in and will use existing mounting points on the frame for your control arms.

A long arm suspension system will change the overall geometry of your suspension and allow for more articulation and in some cases wheel travel.

You DO NOT need a long arm to run 35s. I would actually recommend against it. Buy a short arm kit and enjoy it. It will take you 99% of the places that you'll want to go in that brand new Jeep.

Marcus
brand new aint even close, delivery date is advised to be February 14, Happy valentines day to me

with that being said, I researching and planning.
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post #6 of 30 Old 02-04-2015, 09:10 AM
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Rule(s) of thumb:

Less than 12" of vertical travel = Short arm
12" or more vertical travel = Long arm

4-4.5" of lift or less = Short arm
More than 4.5" of lift = Long arm


Those would be the two most basic traits to compare the two against, IMO. There are other benefits to long arms, depending on manufacturer (or builder) such as tailored/adjusted suspension geomentry. But at it's simplest form the above to points would be how I would suggest you decide.

-Mike
2007 2dr X, 6sp, 35's on D44's, 2" lift, cage, hydro, etc.
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post #7 of 30 Old 02-04-2015, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sick13JKUR View Post
Long story short(pun intended) - long arms = smoother ride on road but sacrifice a little ground clearance off-road... Articulate smoother than short arms though.
Short arms = better ground clearance off-road but don't ride as sooth on-road...
I don't think I lost any ground clearance going to long arms.


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post #8 of 30 Old 02-04-2015, 09:35 AM
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Good nfo posted already.
Not really necessary unless you want to run 40's


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post #9 of 30 Old 02-04-2015, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ALASHA View Post
I don't think I lost any ground clearance going to long arms.
Just a little... You have more arm hanging down now so you have more stuff to snag on rocks etc...

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post #10 of 30 Old 02-04-2015, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sick13JKUR View Post
Just a little... You have more arm hanging down now so you have more stuff to snag on rocks etc...
My rear arms are bent and the front are tucked up just as well as stock if not better.


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post #11 of 30 Old 02-04-2015, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sick13JKUR View Post
Just a little... You have more arm hanging down now so you have more stuff to snag on rocks etc...
Some run the frame mounts outside the frame (EVO for example)
Clayton's front arms tuck up and bolt to the crossover.
Depends on the kit mostly. Not all drop the arms below the frame.

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #12 of 30 Old 02-04-2015, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Some run the frame mounts outside the frame (EVO for example)
Clayton's front arms tuck up and bolt to the crossover.
Depends on the kit mostly. Not all drop the arms below the frame.
Good to know... Sorry OP for the mis-info...

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post #13 of 30 Old 02-04-2015, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Some run the frame mounts outside the frame (EVO for example)
Clayton's front arms tuck up and bolt to the crossover.
Depends on the kit mostly. Not all drop the arms below the frame.
now you opened a can of worms!!

I am looking at rock krawler and teraflex. But am leaning more to the teraflex. With the above mentioned descriptions is there a kit that is better or is the ford/chevy syndrome (preference).
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post #14 of 30 Old 02-04-2015, 11:58 AM
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Haha, I'll let the more knowledgable suspension people answer that.

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #15 of 30 Old 02-04-2015, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowjunkie View Post
now you opened a can of worms!!

I am looking at rock krawler and teraflex. But am leaning more to the teraflex. With the above mentioned descriptions is there a kit that is better or is the ford/chevy syndrome (preference).
Both companies are great but if you are still talking about long arms, then it is Rock Krawler hands down.

Teraflex stuck with a traditional four link similar to stock geometry. Problem is that upper rear arms are only ~1" longer than stock which causes binding.


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post #16 of 30 Old 02-04-2015, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ALASHA View Post
Both companies are great but if you are still talking about long arms, then it is Rock Krawler hands down.

Teraflex stuck with a traditional four link similar to stock geometry. Problem is that upper rear arms are only ~1" longer than stock which causes binding.
think the short arm is the best option for me.
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post #17 of 30 Old 02-04-2015, 02:34 PM
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I'd agree that short arm would be the way to go for you. Espceically if you are only planning on running 35's.

That being said, when I made the jump to long arms I noticed a significant difference across the board.

2008 X 2-door, 35" Duratacs, Clayton Long-arm, geared and locked

2012 Rubi 2-door, 37" Nittos, Method Beadlocks, JKS Suspension, JCR everything
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post #18 of 30 Old 02-04-2015, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=SlvrJK;3109617]I'd agree that short arm would be the way to go for you. Espceically if you are only planning on running 35's.

That being said, when I made the jump to long arms I noticed a significant difference why did you make the jump?
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post #19 of 30 Old 02-05-2015, 02:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowjunkie View Post
why did you make the jump?
Funny story about that one. I got hit head on last winter by a guy in a pickup truck. The front portion of the frame / control arm mounts took so much damage it was either longarm the jeep so they didnt have to swap frames or total the jeep. Obviously I chose option A.

2008 X 2-door, 35" Duratacs, Clayton Long-arm, geared and locked

2012 Rubi 2-door, 37" Nittos, Method Beadlocks, JKS Suspension, JCR everything
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post #20 of 30 Old 02-06-2015, 05:23 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SlvrJK View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bowjunkie View Post
why did you make the jump?
Funny story about that one. I got hit head on last winter by a guy in a pickup truck. The front portion of the frame / control arm mounts took so much damage it was either longarm the jeep so they didnt have to swap frames or total the jeep. Obviously I chose option A.
That sucks.

Will be researching a lot more about brands of lifts. They all look somewhat the same but then they dont. Kinda confusing, but i know i want to stay away from any issues with driving/suspension problems (dw).
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post #21 of 30 Old 02-06-2015, 05:48 AM
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Im only at 2.5" of lift and after many people told me it would not help to LA my jeep i still did. IT WAS THE BEST THING I EVER DID! Much smoother suspension cycle. I am only running 35s as of now but 37s will come soon.
If you have the time and like to work on your rig to get everything dialed in then LA. If you want to plug it in and play then short arm is the way to go.
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post #22 of 30 Old 02-06-2015, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgee149 View Post
Im only at 2.5" of lift and after many people told me it would not help to LA my jeep i still did. IT WAS THE BEST THING I EVER DID! Much smoother suspension cycle. I am only running 35s as of now but 37s will come soon.

If you have the time and like to work on your rig to get everything dialed in then LA. If you want to plug it in and play then short arm is the way to go.

Did you run a quality short arm first for comparison ?

2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #23 of 30 Old 02-06-2015, 06:11 AM
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If your in the market for long arms(not saying that you should be on 35s) Synergys Long arm kit is worth a look. The Dual Durometer Bushings and double adjuster sleeve is what sells me on them. PIG can probably tell you more as I only have experencie with their short arms.

http://www.synergymfg.com/Synergy-Je...l#.VNTKj3i9LCQ

How many are running Long Arms with 37s?

2010 4-DOOR MOUNTAIN
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post #24 of 30 Old 02-06-2015, 06:52 AM
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[QUOTE=kjeeper10;3113001]Did you run a quality short arm first for comparison ?[/QUOT

i ran a rock krawler short arm. now its three linked front and rear long arm.
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post #25 of 30 Old 02-06-2015, 08:01 AM
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Another can of worms per say...

Most of your short (or mid arms on a JK) is a 4 link front and rear. When you go to a long arm, it is a lot easier to change that up and do a 3 link.

We run a RK 3.5" X Factor Long Arm and it is a 3 Link front and rear versus a 4 Link front and rear.

-Jason


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