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post #1 of 27 Old 01-06-2015, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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P2308 code help

Jeep is running like crap and I am getting a p2308 code. "Secondary coil #3 condition" http://engine-codes.com/p2308_dodge.html

New plugs and plug wires so does this mean my coil is bad?

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post #2 of 27 Old 01-06-2015, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Alittle more info. Been having this problem and have been in contact with Ripp to try multiple custom tunes with no help. https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=233978

Also have been throwing code p0300 "multiple/random cylinder misfire". My gut feeling was EGR valve, but replaced it and nothing changed. Replaced spark plug wires and plugs tonight and now throwing the p2308 code.

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post #3 of 27 Old 01-07-2015, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leman View Post
Alittle more info. Been having this problem and have been in contact with Ripp to try multiple custom tunes with no help. https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=233978

Also have been throwing code p0300 "multiple/random cylinder misfire". My gut feeling was EGR valve, but replaced it and nothing changed. Replaced spark plug wires and plugs tonight and now throwing the p2308 code.
A few things. If you dropped any of the new plugs at any time, the porcelain on the plug itself may be cracked. Another thing is Spark plug gap VERY IMPORTANT .032

Coils do go bad, but lets go over the easy stuff first.

RIPP
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post #4 of 27 Old 01-07-2015, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RIPPMODS View Post
A few things. If you dropped any of the new plugs at any time, the porcelain on the plug itself may be cracked. Another thing is Spark plug gap VERY IMPORTANT .032

Coils do go bad, but lets go over the easy stuff first.

RIPP
Replaced coil this morning, didn't help anything.

Dont remember dropping any, but I will pull them again and double check the gap.

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Last edited by leman; 01-07-2015 at 12:51 PM.
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post #5 of 27 Old 01-07-2015, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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went on a test drive after unhooking the battery for awhile and resetting all the codes. did ok for a min, but then threw the code again and started blowing white smoke from the exhaust. head gasket?

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post #6 of 27 Old 01-07-2015, 04:19 PM
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Could be a blown head gasket as you noted. I've been down this road before, is it blowing a lot of white smoke and did you smell anti-freeze? Regardless, I wouldn't drive it any further until you figure out what is wrong - if you have a blown head gasket and water is getting into the oil then you could end up with a lot more damage than just pulling a head to replace that gasket.
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post #7 of 27 Old 01-07-2015, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Fleshharrower View Post
Could be a blown head gasket as you noted. I've been down this road before, is it blowing a lot of white smoke and did you smell anti-freeze? Regardless, I wouldn't drive it any further until you figure out what is wrong - if you have a blown head gasket and water is getting into the oil then you could end up with a lot more damage than just pulling a head to replace that gasket.
didnt smell antifreeze in it, but it was enough to notice while going up my driveway.

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post #8 of 27 Old 01-07-2015, 10:53 PM
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Okay - some of the other guys might jump in with their thoughts too.

White smoke coming out of the exhaust only comes from one source and that's water. I've never seen any other condition that gives you white smoke. Blue/gray is oil, black is too rich of a fuel mixture, and white is steam. It can be water that is in the exhaust from condensation after it has sat for a while but that usually burns off right away.

You need to really get clear on what is happening. Is it only white smoke when it starts up? Or does it keep blowing white smoke after driving for a while?

In your case it sounds like you noticed the smoke after driving it for a while and this is most likely coming from a head problem. In my experience this was caused by over-heating a motor with an aluminum head on an iron block which is the same type of setup as your 3.8L. I had to replace both the head gasket and have the cylinder head resurfaced since it warped (which I checked using a feeler gauge and a ruler that I knew to be flat). I had to take the head to a machine shop for the work and had them do the valves at the same time. I was a little bit lucky here since it was a 4 cyl motor which means only one head.

I also noticed that you said your motor is supercharged, you could have blown a gasket but I gotta say with the low boost from a super charger I don't see it happening. Unless, the previous owner of the motor (or you) thought it would be fun to try to get higher boost out of the setup which I imagine could lead to problems.

I don't know your mechanical ability - if it were me then I would be doing the following:
1. Checking to see if there is water in the oil. If there is then stop driving and start getting into what is wrong with the engine. Do not take this lightly, running a motor with water in the oil is going to tear things up inside and create a bigger problem.
2. Test drive it to see how much white smoke am I getting, is it only from a cold start or does it happen after it heats up?
3. If I was still getting the smoke after it heats up then I would pull the heads which sucks with a V configuration motor since you have to pull them both to see where the problem is. Even if you find a problem with one head, you might as well pull them both at this point since you've already done the hard work of getting all the modern engine junk out of the way.

At this point - it's either a good time to use/learn some light engine rebuild skills or enlist the help of a friend that has worked on engines. Or take it to a shop. The good news for you is that when started working on engines, I had to use a Chilton's Manual since there was no internet to do research on. These days, I have a computer in the garage and am constantly referring to it as I work on some vehicle "project".
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post #9 of 27 Old 01-07-2015, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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Ive busted more than a few knuckles; I cut my teeth on a 77 IH Scout II.

only noticing white smoke under acceleration over ~3000rpm. I havent had enough time with the engine running correctly to try to get more boost.

Thanks for the input

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post #10 of 27 Old 01-07-2015, 11:28 PM
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I hope not...

I had this same issue. Ended up being a fried PCM...I did get it repaired and under warranty believe it or not.
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post #11 of 27 Old 01-08-2015, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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interesting thing today. noticed alittle fluid underneath at my muffler relocation. its a watery fluid with a white tint (i know how that sounds) doesnt smell or taste like coolant. started the jeep and let it idle for a couple min. dripped more fluid and was spraying alittle out the tail pipe, more than just condensation.

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post #12 of 27 Old 01-08-2015, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamkaikens View Post
I had this same issue. Ended up being a fried PCM...I did get it repaired and under warranty believe it or not.
with 107k on the ticker I dont think ill be getting any warranty work

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post #13 of 27 Old 01-08-2015, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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also didnt notice any water in the oil, but it was much darker than I was expecting. Did an oil change with royal purple less than 100 miles ago and it is already black coffee black.

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post #14 of 27 Old 01-15-2015, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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Anyone have any recommendations on where to pick up a PCM not including the dealership. Im seeing several sites that you send in your VIN and they program it. just wondering if anyone has used one specifically.

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post #15 of 27 Old 01-15-2015, 11:44 AM
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Anyone have any recommendations on where to pick up a PCM not including the dealership. Im seeing several sites that you send in your VIN and they program it. just wondering if anyone has used one specifically.
If you do get a new ECU, or have your current ECU reflashed at the dealer, Make sure to back the RIPP SC tune out and reload the file that is named "Original Backup File" back int to the Jeep (unmarry the Diablosport) this way once the new factory calibrations are flashed to the ECU, you can the remarry your diablosport and upload the RIPP SC tune. It is important to note that you should not try to restart your Jeep without re-flashing the RIPP SC tune after the ECU replacement or current ECU dealer reflash, as you will FLOOD the motor due to the larger injectors provided with your KIT.

Have you checked your coolant levels? Is your rig loosing engine coolant? The puddle under the muffler sounds like regular condensation to us? Have you checked to see if your coolant system instantly pressurizes under cold start?

Please keep us posted.

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post #16 of 27 Old 01-21-2015, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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New pcm seems to have fixed all my issues for now. Time will tell though.

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post #17 of 27 Old 01-21-2015, 09:00 PM
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New pcm seems to have fixed all my issues for now. Time will tell though.
Did I call that or what?? where did you end up getting the PCM from?
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post #18 of 27 Old 01-21-2015, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Did I call that or what?? where did you end up getting the PCM from?
Got it online from a company in Florida.

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post #19 of 27 Old 01-24-2015, 10:39 AM
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Smile ecu misfire

last year I had misfire on my 07 JKU #3 and #6 cyl no spark so i did the simple stuff and found out the drivers for the ignition in the ecu were knocked out of it ......it seems that i was messing with the plugs checking for carbon in the cylinders and forgot to hook up a plug wire,then the next day while at work my wife calls and says"the jeep is running rough and the CEL is on" when i got home is when the diagnostics started...turns out the ECU was covered under the Federal emission warranty..80,000 miles I just squeaked in at 76,000 miles
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post #20 of 27 Old 01-24-2015, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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well looks like I have a bad cat converter now. the #2 cat on the drivers side glows red hot just idling, and it back fires and stutters really bad under acceleration.

cant wait to get all this stuff fixed on the jeep so I can sell it.

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post #21 of 27 Old 02-05-2015, 08:52 PM
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Update on my issue that I had...My PCM that I had replaced at the dealership under warranty about 3-4 months ago took a on me this week. exact same issue as before, checked the codes: P0300-Multiple Cylinder Misfire, and P2302-Ignition coil 1 Secondary Circuit -Insufficient Ionization. Had it towed to the dealership again (its like watching some guy walk away with your soul mate!) and they swapped the PCM again and said i'm good to go...my question is, what is causing this to happen?
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post #22 of 27 Old 02-05-2015, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Idk. Mines acting really strange too. Pulled the cat it was empty and the jeep still runs like crap

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post #23 of 27 Old 02-06-2015, 09:22 PM
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Fixed?

So I got my jeep back from the dealer today. they put another new(re-manufactured) PCM in my jeep and its back to running again. I think I will try to find a good automotive electrical shop to see if they cant track down what may be causing the issue. Maybe i will swing by Motech.
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post #24 of 27 Old 02-21-2015, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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About ready to torch the jeep. Getting a flashing CEL. Happens randomly under acceleration, deceleration, and idling. It's not recording any sort of code. Getting lots of stumbling and backfiring on acceleration. I've sent data logs to ripp and haven't gotten any reply yet.

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post #25 of 27 Old 04-24-2015, 10:28 PM
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And another PCM shits the bucket! Not only that but they replaced my PCM with another remanufactured one (3rd replaced Pam) this PCM failed before even leaving the dealership. They are now looking into an actual new never used PCM. They are still claiming nothing is causing the PCM to fail. WTF!
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