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post #1 of 28 Old 08-03-2014, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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which way to fit 35s

I have narrowed down how I want to fit 35s with 2 options. Before I explain those options let me tell you what I am trying to achieve.

Where I go trail riding is here in FL. Most of what I ride through is mud and water. I do this on average twice a month (Hopefully this will increase). One of the guys I ride with has no issues with driving in water. He once got stuck in a water hole with water up to the top of the shifter column in a stock JKU (has a snorkel). In order for me to extract him I had to take my manual transmission and 33" tires to just as deep of water and shift it into reverse once the strap was hooked up. I didn't feel comfortable about shutting it off and restarting it as I was worried about water getting into the exhaust (may not be a valid concern). I did eventually get him out without damage to my clutch.

So I am wanting to go taller just to keep my transmission and engine that much further out of the water.

I already chopped my fender flares and have 33s.

My 2 options are to either:
1.5" Teraflex performance leveling kit and 35s or
2.5" Teraflex lift and 35s

I like the first option for the LCOG but the 2nd option will put my transmission 1" higher up and hopefully that much further out of the water.

What do you suggest?
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post #2 of 28 Old 08-03-2014, 08:27 AM
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2.5 coil lift and 37s That will get you around 4.5" higher at the belly vs now. You could just throws 35s on there as is with the cut flares and then decide how much taller you want it to be.

RK 2.5 Triple Rate Coils, MC control arms, 40" Trail Grapplers.
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post #3 of 28 Old 08-03-2014, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminator2 View Post
2.5 coil lift and 37s You could just throws 35s on there as is with the cut flares.
I have thought about this also since I am regearing anyways to 4.56s. I'm guessing I would just have to beef up the front Dana 30? Should I keep it unlocked to prolong breaking shafts?
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post #4 of 28 Old 08-03-2014, 09:00 AM
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A 1.5 lift don't be sufficient to clear 35-inch tires.

I replaced a 2.0-inch Rubicon Express Economy lift with a 2.5 inch TeraFlex Budget lift because those 35s kept rubbing the rocker panel rear weld seams at articulation.

I only use the Economy/Budget Boost lifts, which retain stock Rubicon springs and shocks; I have never had any issues.

My 2013 JKR with 35-inch General Grabbers and 2.5-inch Teraflex Budget lift






My 2012 JKUR with 35-inch General Grabbers and 2.5-inch Teraflex Budget lift





2013 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
Warn 9.5ti winch
2.5-inch Teraflex lift
35-inch General Grabbers

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post #5 of 28 Old 08-03-2014, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aldo90731 View Post
A 1.5 lift don't be sufficient to clear 35-inch tires.
I have seen plenty of people run 35s on a stock suspension with cut flares. I have no issue cutting the pinch seam. I don't see a 1.5" lift having any problems at all with clearing 35s. Once again it would be with flat flares. You may have had issues doing so with your factory flares.
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post #6 of 28 Old 08-03-2014, 10:26 AM
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X2, some trimming a 35" will work under 1.5 w/ 4.5 backspaced wheels.


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post #7 of 28 Old 08-03-2014, 10:49 AM
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Yes, you can fit 35" under the Jeep with mild trimming and stock suspension, but don't figure on doing any significant flexing. Pretty much if you think you'll need to disconnect...don't. I know....I'm daily driving one like this right now.
This will only gain you approx. an inch of clearance over your 33s.

If you really want to get your belly up, put a suspension lift under it. 3.5" and 35s doesn't look that bad. 3.5" and 37s look MUCH better.
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post #8 of 28 Old 08-03-2014, 10:50 AM
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One of the main things you need to do is extend all your breathers. You can buy the kit or go to the auto parts store and buy the hose and do it yourself.
Down here a snorkel is almost a must. I've been looking into them just not sure yet the one I'll get. As for the lift I would do the 2.5''
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post #9 of 28 Old 08-03-2014, 11:24 AM
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I have 35s on a 2.5" TF coil lift. I like the way it looks and have a good bit of clearance, but might actually go to a 3.5" soon. If you are playing with that much water you should at least extend your breathers and look into a snorkel!
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post #10 of 28 Old 08-03-2014, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cody0707 View Post
I have seen plenty of people run 35s on a stock suspension with cut flares. I have no issue cutting the pinch seam. I don't see a 1.5" lift having any problems at all with clearing 35s. Once again it would be with flat flares. You may have had issues doing so with your factory flares.
It wasn't the flares, it was the weld seam. But only in extreme articulation as I mentioned.

2013 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
Warn 9.5ti winch
2.5-inch Teraflex lift
35-inch General Grabbers

2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara
Rubicon Wheels and Tires
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post #11 of 28 Old 08-03-2014, 12:48 PM
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no issues with our 2" lift and 35s. only rubs on the end of the oe rubi sliders. I'm going to cut the ends and recap them so there's more clearance and it'll be good from there.

think the lift we did was a rough country.



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post #12 of 28 Old 08-03-2014, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aldo90731 View Post
A 1.5 lift don't be sufficient to clear 35-inch tires.

I replaced a 2.0-inch Rubicon Express Economy lift with a 2.5 inch TeraFlex Budget lift because those 35s kept rubbing the rocker panel rear weld seams at articulation.

I only use the Economy/Budget Boost lifts, which retain stock Rubicon springs and shocks; I have never had any issues.

My 2013 JKR with 35-inch General Grabbers and 2.5-inch Teraflex Budget lift






My 2012 JKUR with 35-inch General Grabbers and 2.5-inch Teraflex Budget lift




Cut your flares and pinch seams and center your axles and you can run 40s with 2.5" lift.

RK 2.5 Triple Rate Coils, MC control arms, 40" Trail Grapplers.
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post #13 of 28 Old 08-03-2014, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
X2, some trimming a 35" will work under 1.5 w/ 4.5 backspaced wheels.


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I could do RK 1.5s on mine. 35s are easy.

RK 2.5 Triple Rate Coils, MC control arms, 40" Trail Grapplers.
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post #14 of 28 Old 08-04-2014, 08:25 AM
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Cody

Are you building a 4 door or 2 door? Sorry if we missed it..

RK
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post #15 of 28 Old 08-05-2014, 06:45 AM Thread Starter
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Cody

Are you building a 4 door or 2 door? Sorry if we missed it..

RK
It is for a 2 door.
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post #16 of 28 Old 08-05-2014, 07:51 AM
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First suggestion(s) as have already been mentioned for deepish water crossings, raise your breathers (TKobb1060 did a pretty bitchin write up on this awhile back) and get yourself a snorkel.

As for water making its way up your exhaust, if you have a 3.6L there is a weird looking loop in the exhaust. I'm thinkin this would serve fairly well as a trap to help remediate any water infiltration, but this is theory and not at all rooted in experience (I have an 09, so this isn't something I can easily test). I would definitely recommend NOT depressing the clutch pedal while in deep water. You can shift into 4L, kill the engine, shift gears & then bump start while in gear. This sidesteps depressing the clutch and is actually detailed in the owner's manual. Look for the section on "clutch bypass".

If you trim the pinch seams (which is so simple, even I can do it - you can ask Stube about my complete lack of knowhow) and add a little bit of suspension lift (an RK 2.5" stock mod ended up netting me nearly 3.5" back in 09 when installed) you can absolutely clear a 35" tire all day long.

Also, if you haven't done it already, rip that plastic air dam from under your front bumper. That thing robs you of turning radius.

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post #17 of 28 Old 08-05-2014, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Cody0707 View Post
It is for a 2 door.
Generally 2.5" coils will net ~3"-3.5" of lift on a 2 door, but even as light as my 2 door is 2.5s gave me right at 3" lift after settling. Initially, it was slightly higher at around 3.5". If you want a low slung 2 door you could easily do 1.5 coils and 35s or even 37s if you do enough trimming.
With how much cutting I have done to mine I could easily have done the 1.5 coils instead of the 2.5s with 40s but the only issue is with such a large tire and such a small lift is I would end up with less useable uptravel vs stock.

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post #18 of 28 Old 08-05-2014, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Terminator2 View Post
Generally 2.5" coils will net ~3"-3.5" of lift on a 2 door, but even as light as my 2 door is 2.5s gave me right at 3" lift after settling. Initially, it was slightly higher at around 3.5". If you want a low slung 2 door you could easily do 1.5 coils and 35s or even 37s if you do enough trimming.
With how much cutting I have done to mine I could easily have done the 1.5 coils instead of the 2.5s with 40s but the only issue is with such a large tire and such a small lift is I would end up with less useable uptravel vs stock.
So with a RK 1.5" lift and trimming I could potentially fit a 37? I have seen some mention that a RK 1.5" lift on light 2 doors gives approximately 2.5" of real world lift. Thoughts?

Edit: Just read this on their webpage:

JK 2 Doors will receive approximately 2.5" of lift up front and 1.5" in the back. Perfect for 33" and 35" x 12.5" tires on 9" wide wheels with 4.5" of back spacing with OEM fenders. 37"x12.5" tires on 9" wide wheels with 4.5" of back spacing will fit for an extremely Low COG build with standard industry flat fenders.

Last edited by Cody0707; 08-05-2014 at 12:54 PM.
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post #19 of 28 Old 08-05-2014, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Cody0707 View Post
So with a RK 1.5" lift and trimming I could potentially fit a 37? I have seen some mention that a RK 1.5" lift on light 2 doors gives approximately 2.5" of real world lift. Thoughts?

Edit: Just read this on their webpage:

JK 2 Doors will receive approximately 2.5" of lift up front and 1.5" in the back. Perfect for 33" and 35" x 12.5" tires on 9" wide wheels with 4.5" of back spacing with OEM fenders. 37"x12.5" tires on 9" wide wheels with 4.5" of back spacing will fit for an extremely Low COG build with standard industry flat fenders.
Yes here is my 2 door with RK 2.5s and 40s (3" actual lift) and as you can see there is plenty of room. I could easily do RK 1.5s on mine with 40s.

RK 2.5 Triple Rate Coils, MC control arms, 40" Trail Grapplers.
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post #20 of 28 Old 08-05-2014, 01:29 PM
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I'm still at 3.5 front and 3.5 rear. Front bumper too.


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post #21 of 28 Old 08-05-2014, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
I'm still at 3.5 front and 3.5 rear. Front bumper too.


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Coil wdeges do add about half an inch to the rear.

RK 2.5 Triple Rate Coils, MC control arms, 40" Trail Grapplers.
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post #22 of 28 Old 08-05-2014, 01:59 PM
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If even that.


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post #23 of 28 Old 08-05-2014, 02:39 PM
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Meh, for the OP's application and use, I'd just do teraflex 1" front coil spacers and call it a day. With trimmed fenders, the OP should be fine. Just trim the rear pinch seam. That's pretty much a given with 35s & bigger tires.

Cody, if you really wants springs, I'd do the 1.5" RK springs. Remember, on a 2 door they net about 2"-3" of lift depending on bumpers, winch, and other accessories.

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post #24 of 28 Old 08-22-2014, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminator2 View Post
Yes here is my 2 door with RK 2.5s and 40s (3" actual lift) and as you can see there is plenty of room. I could easily do RK 1.5s on mine with 40s.
It appears there must be different definitions of "fit". Are you saying that you get no rubbing on the front with that setup?

On my 13' I have the RK 3.5 x factor long arm kit (which nets 4.5 inches of lift on my 2 door) and with full width D60 axles and 4.5 inches of backspacing on a 9 inch rim the passenger tire rubs the frame at full lock on flat ground in reverse (and driver barely clears) - and that axle sits an inch forward of stock with that kit. Sure, it "fits" driving straight on flat ground. But with stock width axles, 1.5 lift and 4.5 inches of backspacing on a 9 inch rim, 40s would rub the crap out of everything turning, right? Then when you flex it you'll need serious custom bump stops as the 40s rub severly my poison spider flat fenders when stuffed - and bump stops are tricky since even extended stops miss each other at full articulation. Kinda off topic from OP, but you have to take aggressive fit suggestions with a grain of salt - some don't mind rubbing, some do... mine is a rock rig so a little tire rubbing on a steel fender doesn't matter, but someone with painted factory flares might have issue with the rubbing... and guess depends on use; if the biggest thing someone drives over is a curb at the mall... Not dissing on you or your rig, but think suggesting someone would have plenty of room for 40s on a 1.5 lift is a little out there.
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post #25 of 28 Old 08-23-2014, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Terminator2 View Post
Generally 2.5" coils will net ~3"-3.5" of lift on a 2 door,....

For a 2 door, you need to determine if the company uses 2dr/4dr specific coils or if they use 4dr coils for both 2dr and 4dr lifts.
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