RK 3.5" without control arms - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 37 Old 04-16-2014, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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RK 3.5" without control arms

Is it absolutely necessary for LCA's on the 3.5" RK lift? I put some steel bumpers on and my leveling kit and coil spacers aren't doing the job anymore. It would be temporary until maybe the winter until I could get the control arms.

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post #2 of 37 Old 04-16-2014, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nreese View Post
Is it absolutely necessary for LCA's on the 3.5" RK lift? I put some steel bumpers on and my leveling kit and coil spacers aren't doing the job anymore. It would be temporary until maybe the winter until I could get the control arms.
It's not required, but your steering will be pretty flighty 40mph+...

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post #3 of 37 Old 04-16-2014, 11:15 AM
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That's it!

It is not NEEDED but certainly helps! Especially at that height. The higher you go the more our of wack the castor and pinion angles get. The control arms help get all that back to where it needs to be.

-Jason


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post #4 of 37 Old 04-16-2014, 12:59 PM
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I try to stick with 3" (actual lift) being the limit on lifting without trackbar and caster correction. The Rock Krawler 3.5" coils should put a 4 door's front lift at 4" which in my opinion is a little much without caster correction.

Yea, you may be able to get by without but you'll definitely be at the point to benefit from adjustable lower control arms.

People have different setups and different expectation. What's tolerable for one person may not be tolerable for another.
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post #5 of 37 Old 04-16-2014, 01:03 PM
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Rancho and AEV make brackets that add caster back for around $100. They might be a good temporary fix until you get LCA's. You can always sell the brackets later. Who knows, depending on your use you might be happy with the brackets.
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post #6 of 37 Old 04-16-2014, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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Going to look into those brackets. Sounds like I should off until I save enough for the base 3.5 kit. I dd about 150 miles a day for work so I would notice the flighty steering especially around the beltway.

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post #7 of 37 Old 04-16-2014, 01:30 PM
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Rancho's bracket appears to be built a little better than AEV's to me. TnT also has a nice drop bracket, but for the price you could have a set of adjustable lowers.
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post #8 of 37 Old 04-16-2014, 02:56 PM
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You don't have a 3" TF lift like in your sig? How about 37's? What size tires are you running currently?

-Dan
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post #9 of 37 Old 04-16-2014, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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I do but it's half TF coils and half spacers. Equals 3" total when I was stock but the steel bumpers weigh it down about an inch. 37" trail grapplers.

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post #10 of 37 Old 04-16-2014, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -SLADE- View Post
Rancho's bracket appears to be built a little better than AEV's to me. TnT also has a nice drop bracket, but for the price you could have a set of adjustable lowers.

I saw those at a jeep rally. Very nice but $250

Here's the Rancho version. The brackets are joined unlike AEV's. Structurally going to be stronger. AEV/RC supply spacers to fill in the factory mount. These have tubes welded in place to join the brackets and tuck nicely into the mount.
(07-11) the upper passenger bolt is supplied.
I have a link somewhere for $130


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2007 JKR | PSC Big bore box | Rock Krawler 3.5" x-factor arms l SteerSmarts YETI track bar, tie rod, no drill flipped drag link, Griffin | Synergy frame brace | 37x12.5x17 Nitto RG's | Dana front DS | Fox IFP shocks | Artec front armor kit/Currie JJ's | Teraflex rear axle bracket | EVO Rockstars | Ridged D's, A pillar mounts | VKS sliders l Trek Armor seat covers | Superchips/Sprint booster | Savvy half doors w/ Bestop uppers
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post #11 of 37 Old 04-16-2014, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nreese View Post
I do but it's half TF coils and half spacers. Equals 3" total when I was stock but the steel bumpers weigh it down about an inch. 37" trail grapplers.
The beltway is dangerous enough, no need to drive in a rig that could change 3 lanes if you sneeze.

I have the springs, drop brackets, front track bar and rear track bar bracket from a Rancho 4 inch kit you can have for $250. The spring have about 10k miles on them. The rest 1000 at most.

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post #12 of 37 Old 04-16-2014, 07:26 PM
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If i were you I would give these a try. I ordered a set, just to have heim joints on the uppers.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...JKUFL-KIT.html
For 100 bucks you would have adjustable uppers arms, and much stronger than the stock uppers.
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post #13 of 37 Old 04-17-2014, 04:47 AM
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For $205 plus shipping, you can have a set of adjustable upper's from Metalcloak. The Duraflex joint would definitely be a step above a heim joint for a DD.

http://www.metalcloak.com/Control-Ar...ont-p/7002.htm
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post #14 of 37 Old 04-17-2014, 05:14 AM
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If you're going to do just one pair of arms, do lowers. I wouldn't want to go shorter like with the uppers, but longer like with the lowers. My choice is still Rock Krawler for amrs.

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post #15 of 37 Old 04-17-2014, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -SLADE- View Post
For $205 plus shipping, you can have a set of adjustable upper's from Metalcloak. The Duraflex joint would definitely be a step above a heim joint for a DD.

http://www.metalcloak.com/Control-Ar...ont-p/7002.htm
Better for him to do the lowers and make them about 1/2-5/8" longer than the stock lowers which should give him back him caster without making the uppers arms shorter than stock (they are short enough already IMHO). The lowers cost more but they have the Duraflex joint at both ends. I have a set of upper and lower front MC arms sitting right here. Just need to install them.
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post #16 of 37 Old 04-17-2014, 07:47 AM
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Better for him to do the lowers and make them about 1/2-5/8" longer than the stock lowers which should give him back him caster without making the uppers arms shorter than stock (they are short enough already IMHO). The lowers cost more but they have the Duraflex joint at both ends. I have a set of upper and lower front MC arms sitting right here. Just need to install them.


Agree with


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post #17 of 37 Old 04-17-2014, 07:56 AM
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Agree with


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My uppers are going to be 5/8" longer than stock and my lowers are going to be 1 1/2" longer than stock which should have me at about 1" over stock wheelbase in front and should give me close to 4* of caster which is a ton more than I have right now. I am so used to the light steering having 6" of lift and stock arms for 4000 miles now it should feel like a huge improvement.
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post #18 of 37 Old 04-17-2014, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminator2 View Post
My uppers are going to be 5/8" longer than stock and my lowers are going to be 1 1/2" longer than stock which should have me at about 1" over stock wheelbase in front and should give me close to 4* of caster which is a ton more than I have right now. I am so used to the light steering having 6" of lift and stock arms for 4000 miles now it should feel like a huge improvement.
Just a heads up, You're gonna have quite a bit of forward spring bow on the passenger side and moving the axle forward will probably cause the spring to hit the sway bar link. Just one more balancing act on the JK to make things happy.

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post #19 of 37 Old 04-17-2014, 08:13 AM
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1 1/2 ?

For the front. just get the bumpstop in line with the perch at full stuff or slightly longer. Uppers to set desired caster/pinion.

Agree, pushing it will bow the coils.







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post #20 of 37 Old 04-17-2014, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminator2 View Post
Better for him to do the lowers and make them about 1/2-5/8" longer than the stock lowers which should give him back him caster without making the uppers arms shorter than stock (they are short enough already IMHO). The lowers cost more but they have the Duraflex joint at both ends. I have a set of upper and lower front MC arms sitting right here. Just need to install them.

I too agree that lowers would be ideal, just throwing out options.

Sometimes you have to work around a budget.

Depending what the long term goals are, getting just the uppers now and then lowers later may be worth considering over the drop brackets.


I too have Metalcloak's arms waiting to go in. I tossed around just getting front lowers or getting the drop brackets for now and arms later, thought about front lowers and rear uppers... Ended up getting a full set of 8.
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post #21 of 37 Old 04-17-2014, 10:18 AM
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I too agree that lowers would be ideal, just throwing out options.

Sometimes you have to work around a budget.

Depending what the long term goals are, getting just the uppers now and then lowers later may be worth considering over the drop brackets.


I too have Metalcloak's arms waiting to go in. I tossed around just getting front lowers or getting the drop brackets for now and arms later, thought about front lowers and rear uppers... Ended up getting a full set of 8.
I will do the rear 4 arms eventually but I need the front a lot more. I badly need get back some caster (I have almost none at 6" front lift and stock arms) and push the front axle up about 1 3/4" vs where it is now (lost about 3/4" wheelbase in front and about 1" in the rear) and the front arms seem to bind more than the rears when I twist them up, and in the rear when i fully stuff my 40s push back closer to the rear of the wheel well vs the front even with the short stock rear arms so some serious cutting is in order to enlarge the rear of the rear wheel well before I push the rear axle back about 2" vs where it is now (1" stretch)
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post #22 of 37 Old 04-17-2014, 10:56 AM
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I will do the rear 4 arms eventually but I need the front a lot more. I badly need get back some caster (I have almost none at 6" front lift and stock arms) and push the front axle up about 1 3/4" vs where it is now (lost about 3/4" wheelbase in front and about 1" in the rear) and the front arms seem to bind more than the rears when I twist them up, and in the rear when i fully stuff my 40s push back closer to the rear of the wheel well vs the front even with the short stock rear arms so some serious cutting is in order to enlarge the rear of the rear wheel well before I push the rear axle back about 2" vs where it is now (1" stretch)
The rear frame side track bar bracket will hit the bump pad unless you have at least 4 inches of offset bump stop or move the bracket back.

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post #23 of 37 Old 04-17-2014, 11:54 AM
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Just a heads up, You're gonna have quite a bit of forward spring bow on the passenger side and moving the axle forward will probably cause the spring to hit the sway bar link. Just one more balancing act on the JK to make things happy.
Thanks I figured as much. My front sway bar links I currently run are too short by about 2-3" as it sits (11" long) so I am going to get longer adjustable links and quick discos. I do not trust my electrofail rubicon sway bar motor much and I also fully disconnect to prevent any interference between the links and the drag link or tie rod or the sway bar arms and the frame during heavy articulation. Hopefully I can adjust the sway bar arm angle by adjusting the links to get more clearance between the links and the coils.
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post #24 of 37 Old 04-17-2014, 12:07 PM
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The rear frame side track bar bracket will hit the bump pad unless you have at least 4 inches of offset bump stop or move the bracket back.
Hmm thanks good to know. I at least want to get back my ~1" of lost wheelbase in the rear. If I can stretch it 1" by just moving the bump stop pad or the upper track bar bracket I might do that but I will see how bad the interference is. I just need to learn to weld.
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post #25 of 37 Old 04-17-2014, 12:11 PM
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Hmm thanks good to know. I at least want to get back my ~1" of lost wheelbase in the rear. If I can stretch it 1" by just moving the bump stop pad or the upper track bar bracket I might do that but I will see how bad the interference is. I just need to learn to weld.
An inch is fine, much more and you have contact problems. I'm with you on the welding thing. Would be so much better if I could weld.

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